The Ladies Delight

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n, velvet,

NITTING, NETTIN

silk; coarse and fine chenille, and crochet silk. These are so well known that it would be a waste of time to describe them in detail. They are of a great variety of colors, and of different qualities; some sorts being much more durable, both in fabric and color, than others. No young lady should trust, at first, to her o

e; Hamburgh wool, fleecy, of three, four, five, six, seven, and eight thre

CRIPTION

th great advantage. A large quantity is imported into this country in a raw state, and is dyed and manufactured here. Some of this is equal to the wools prepared in Germany, as to quality; but the brilliancy of the color will not bear comparison. This remark does not extend to the black German wool, prepared in this country, and which is far superior to that prepared on the continent. Much wool, of a very superior quality is annually prepared for the market; and so great is its resemblance to a superior article, that it require

yed in making garden nets, and for various other purposes. Fleecy (English) is manufactured from the Leicestershire breed, and is much used in knitting and netting: it is of two qualities; both varying in size, from an eighth to a quarter of an inch in diameter. They are made up of threads, varying from two to twelve, and are both equally good. They are applied to crochet as well as to the other descriptions

choice of this material, much care is needed, not only in the selection of colors a

knitted cushions, muffs, &c., and is too

t be so easily wrought. These threads can be employed in almost any way which the taste of the fair artist may induce her to devise. Besides the thread, gold and silver cord is also in much demand, and looks extremely beautiful, when employed with taste and judgment. This material is a twist, and is composed of different quantit

e establishments for the sale of fancy articles, and are to be employed as the judgment or fancy may direct. The gold beads are used in making all kinds of knitting, netting, and crochet, and look well either

EMENTS FOR FAN

least three. Chenille Needles. Pair of long sharp-pointed scissors. Cartri

d gum water, to draw pat

lue and gum water,

lead p

MPLEMENTS F

, for Turkish knitting. Ivory, or wooden pins, for knitting a biroche. A knitting sheath, &c., to be fastened on the

MPLEMENTS F

ommon needle, but left open, that the thread or twine may pass between them, and be wound upon the needle. The prongs are brought to a point, in order that the needle may pass through a small loop without interruption.

MPLEMENTS F

hose whose duty it is to correct these incipient seeds of future mischief. No pursuit should be entered into by the young, without having some moral end in view, and this is especially needful to be observed in cases, where at first sight, it might appear a matter of indifference, whether the pursuit was one of utility, or of mere relaxation. We earnestly entreat our young friends, never to forget, that even our amusements may be rende

brig

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ayed with rag

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rygian's pict'ri

althy seat of

don, in th'

before them a high and a definite object. Le

nce our revere

e mind and ch

on through the

soul on win

with nature'

spirit to it

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of time, labor, and expenses, is an essential requisite in every family; and will ever claim a due share of attention, from her who is desirous of fulfilling with credit to herself and advantage to others, the allotted duties of her appointed station. To those, who are at the head of the majority of families, an extensive knowledge of the various departments of plain needlew

principal stitches use

lf of it back again. This is for the fell. The two pieces are pinned face to face, and seamed together; the stitches being in a slanting direction, and just deep enough to hold the separat

he corners. Hem from right to left; bring the point of the needle from the chest toward the right hand. Faste

th edge of the nearest does not touch the other, but lies just beneath it. The lower one is then to be hemmed or felled to the piece against which you have laid it, still hold

es a little below the other; the upper edge is then turned

occasionally. If you sew selvages, they must be joined evenly together; but if raw edges, one must be turned dow

dge. Being thus prepared, you take two threads back, and so bring, the needle out, from under two before. Proceed in this manner, to the end of t

so preceding, alternately, until one quarter is gathered. Fasten the thread, by twisting it round a pin; stroke the gathers, so that they lie evenly and neatly, with a strong needle or pin. You then proceed as before, until all the gathers are gathered. Then take out the pins, and regulate the gathers of each q

a depth as you wish the puffing to be. You then sew on the first gathering to the gown, frock, &c. you design to trim, at a distance, corresponding with the width of the puffing: and the second gathering sewed to the edge, so as to form a full hem. You may make a do

r, making use of the left thumb for that purpose. The needle must go in on the outside, and be brought through, on the inside. The whipping-cotton should be as

and the furthest from the point of the finger on which it is laid. The needle must go in on the wrong side, and be brought out on the right, five threads down. To make the stitch, the needle is passed through the loop before it is drawn clos

ry neat for the fronts of bodies, where it has a very pretty appearance; likewise

incline a little towards the left hand. Pass your needle over the cord, as you draw it out, and this will form a loop. In drawing out the mesh, you must be careful not to draw the stitch too tight, as that would destroy the effect. You proceed in the same manner to for

up on the needle at a time, and the stitches are far from each other. Its appearance will be varied, according as you put

itch of two or three threads, as close as possible, under the raw edge, and bring the needle half way up that part which is turned down, and four or five threads toward the right hand; make another stitch, and bring down the needle; t

izontally from left to right; and the thread is brought round behind the needle, so as to finish the work in a more elegant manner. I

ornament for cuffs, skirts and capes, and children's pelisses. As much of its beauty depends on its regularity, care should be t

minutely. The engraving will give a better idea of this stitch than any description we could give. Great care being

nd is worked from left to right, as shown in the accompanying engraving. It has

hrough to the right side, just below the hem. Bring the bobbin over the hem, and, putting the needle in at the wrong side, bring it thr

n cord. Two gathers are taken up for each stitch, taking care always to take

outsides of the pattern. It may be best understood by the engraving, merely observing that the stitch is begun on the left hand, and continued alternately

knot it so as to form a loop at the end; then pass the other end through the loop, toward the front, to form another loop to the right hand; continue passing the bobbin throu

the one you used for gathering thread. Over this thread you sew, taking care to take hold also of the gathering thread. The needle is always to be pointed toward your chest. You may work

read, and in long stitches. You then take silk of the right color; stitch together at equal and proper distances the two first folds, and proceed, with each succeeding two, in the same manner, only taking the stitches in the intermediate spaces. Thus the stitches of each alternate ro

ches, will enable the practical needlewoman to

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s, which come under the denomination of plain needlework, are so various, that a mere list of them would occupy more than half our space; and they are so well known, that no necessity exists for naming them in detail. We shall therefore proceed, at once, to give plain directions, by which any lady may soon become expert in this necessary department of household uses, merely observing, that a neat work-

d open into a garden, well supplied with odoriferous flowers and plants, the perfume of which will materially cheer the spirits of those especially whose circumstances compel them to devote the greatest portion of their time to sedentary occupations. If these advantages cannot be obtained, at least the room should be well ventilated, and furnished with a few cheerful plants, and a well filled scent-jar. The beneficent Creator intended all His children, in whatever

found clear though concise rules, for the prep

erally two breadths in width, one of which is cut in two, so as to throw a seam on each side, and leave an entire breadth for the middle. Aprons of all kinds are straight, and either plaited or gathered on to the band or stock at the top. Those with only one breadth, are hemmed at the bottom with a broad hem; those with two breadths, must be hemmed at the sides likewise. The band should be from half a nail to a nail broad; its length is to be determined by the waist of the wearer

h side of which work a row or two in chain stitch. The band is scolloped out from the centre on its lower side, five and a-half nails, leaving the extremities of the band one nail broad. To the scolloped portion, the apron is to be fulled on, so as to sit as neat as possible

the apron to near the rough edge of the material, which is afterward to be turned in. When the vandykes are completed, they are to be turned inside out, and made as smooth as possible. A braid, or a row of tent stitch, on the right sid

three-fourths of a nail deep; lay all round, within the hem, a shawl bordering, not

ound the outer edge of the hem by a deep crimped frill, a nail in breadth. The material m

oulders, and sloping to the waist. The apron is to be gathered, or plaited to the band; and the shoulder straps may be of

d be folded as you would a pinafore, and to be sloped three and three-quarters nails for the shoulder. The slits for the arm-holes must be three nails and three-quarters long, and the sleeves are to be set in plain: the length of the latter is not material. It is us

e so doubled as to make two flounces; one four nails and a half and the other three and a-half deep. A case, to admit of tapes, is to be made one nail from the t

extremely various. Muslin, net, or lace, being those most in common use. The shapes are so multifarious, as to preclude us from giving any specific directions. Every lady must choose her own pattern, as best suits the purpose she

ade to fall over the dress. Frills are generally attached to them, and give the

ape of a half handkerchief. They are hemmed with a narrow

de of a stronger material, and are trimmed in a much plainer style than those used in walking dresses. Satin cloaks look well with velvet collars, and are also frequently trimmed with the same material. Merino, and also silk cloaks, are often trimmed with fur, or velvet, and lined with the same. Sometimes they are made perfectly plain. The lining of a silk or satin cloa

at folds, to the width required. At other times, frills are fitted to a band, and the edge that is to be hemmed, is stiffened by rolling it over a bobbin; it is put on as an ornament to a gown, and is tied with strings at the end. Crimped frills are worn by youn

erial, and sometimes of leather, and may either be made straight, or a little slant, or peaked. Runners of cotton are inserted, to make them more st

mented with a single or double row of back stitch. They are made to button round the neck, or are set on to a band for

latter. A false hem is made down the middle, furnished with buttons, as if to open; the neck is hollowed to the depth of a nail,

nd to fasten round the waist. Set on a plain or worked frill at the bottom. When setting the legs on

the back. The front is to be slightly hollowed. At the bottom, cut a slit of three nails, immediately under the arm holes; insert a gore three nails broad, and the same in length, and terminating in a point. Bosom-gores are also to be introduced of a similar shape, and just half the size. They are to be put in just one n

neck is to be slit open, leaving three nails on each side for the shoulders; and a slit is also to be made in front, so as to allow the garment to pass freely over the head of the wearer; the sides are then to be seamed up, leaving proper slits for the arm holes; and

rd; the width of the material is eighteen, sixteen, and fourteen nails, respectively; and the garment is to have one yard and a half breadth in width. They are to be crossed so as to be at the bottom twenty-one, eighteen, and sixteen, nails: and at the top, fifteen, fourteen, and t

perly, neck gussets of two, one, and one nail square, are to be introduced. A slit of about six nails is made in front, which is hemmed round, and the space left for the shoulders is three, two and a-half and two nails, respectively.

treme corners, as it makes it more strong and durable. A tape is set on, which comes 'round the waist, and ties in front. Sometimes a broad muslin hem is put on the two straight sides, which looks extremely well. Some ladies work a b

es from three breadths to one and a-half. The bottom is hemmed with a broad hem; and the top is gathered, and set on to a strong band of calico, or jean, leaving the front nearly plain. Sometimes a button hole is made, about two nails from the ends of the band, to which strings of ta

ft at the back about four nails in length. The skirt may be gathered full all round, or only at the back and front, leaving the sides plain; sometimes all the fulness is thrown to the back. Having shoulder-straps to keep up the petticoat, is a great advantage; but they are unnecessary if a waist, or body with or without sleeves, be set on the band. In this case the body should be made to fit as tig

will appear. The lappet is a second time to be gathered at the edge, and sewed down as fast as possible. Then hem the other edge, and conceal the stitches with silk braid that will wash. A small gusset put into the bottom of the slits is an advantage, as it makes it stronger. They are to be fastened round the waist with a band, or with a strap and buckle. The latter is most to be preferred. For a close pinafore, two breadths of Holland, or other material, will be required. It is seamed up at the sides, leaving slits for the arm holes, and has a collar and sleeves; as also a band to go round the m

m be well flattened, and back stitch with white silk a quarter of an inch from the edge; cut a slit down about four nails, which is to be either hemmed, or have a tape laid round it on the inside. Set on the strings, and

is to be doubled on the wrong side, and run in a slanting direction so as to cause it to fall gracefully on the neck. The ends are to be embroidered and ornam

ards and a half long. It is hemmed all round with a broad hem so as to a

ck stripe, to slope off one nail and a half toward each side, and then slope one end of the blue and of the scarlet piece, so as to make them accord precisely with the ends of the black previously prepared. You are to cut one nail and a half from the middle to the ends. You are then to split the blue and the scarlet stripes down the middle, and join half of the one to the half of the other, as accurately, as possible. The pieces thus joined together are

line it with sarcenet either white, or colored; trim the two straight edges with a hem of either silk or sati

to harmonize or contrast well with the centre, which must be hemmed on both sides, and then sewed on, so as that the stitches may appear as little as possible. The border should be three nails broad, and of course joined poi

ls, and the lining is of silk. In order that when the shawl is doubled the hems of both folds may appear at the same time, care must be taken, after laying on

convenient. Take a square of wadding, and double it cornerwa

, which is proper for deep mourning, or you may take half a square of rich and rather dull black silk

arm holes. There are various methods of cutting the back and bosom. Some cut out a scollop both before and behind; but in this case, the back is hollowed out one third less than the front. Some ladies hollow out the back, but form the bosom with a flap, which may be cut either straight, or in a slanting direction from the shoulders. Another method of forming the bosom is by cutting the shoulder-straps separate from the shift, and making the top quite straight; bosom gores are then let in, in front; the top is hemmed both before and behind, and a frill gives a nea

of an ordinary man's size. In cutting, you must take a shirt of the required dimensions, as a pattern; and, by it, measure the length of several bodies, not cutting any but the last. Then cut off the other bodies; and from the

e neck will be nine nails. One breadth of the cloth makes the sleeves, and the length is from nine to ten nails. The collar, and the wristbands, are made to fit the neck and wrists, and the breadths are so various, that no general rule can be given. You make the binders, or linings, about twelve n

to be used, is that kind of linen which is called shirting-width. Where a smaller size is require

f a light color is preferable, as it makes a slight contrast. A crape, or gauze veil, is hemmed round; that at the bottom being something broader than the rest. All veils have strings run in at the top, and riding ones are frequently furnished with a ribbon at the bottom, which enables the wearer to obtain the advantage of a double one, by tying the second string round her bonnet, where she is desirous

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blankets, sheets, pillow covers, towel

of the outside material and the lining, (wadding or flannel being laid between,) and stitched in diamonds or other devices. The stitches mu

s advisable to work over the edges at the end, which should be do

the middle must be sewed as neat as possible, and the ends may either be hemmed or seamed: the latter is the preferable

end is seamed up, and the other hemmed with a broad hem, and furnished with strings or buttons, as is deemed most convenient. We think the preferable way of making pillow covers is to procure a material of a sufficient width when doubled,

hould be one yard long, and about ten or twelve nails wide. The best are bought single, and are fringed at the ends. Ot

ind of Marseilles quilting which is prepared expressly for the purpose. Sometimes the covers are merely hemmed round, but they look much neater if fringed, or bordered with a moderately full

toilet table. The covers are merely a bag into which the cushion is slipped. They may be eithe

edlework comprises table cloths, dinner

gly or cut from the piece. In the latter case,

tray napkins, and knife-box cloths, are made in the same manner. The hemming of all these should be extremely neat. It is a pretty and light empl

, and are drawn round the rim by a tape, run into a slit for that purpose. China cloths, and also glass cloths, are to be made of fine soft linen, or diaper; and the cloths used in cleaning lamps, &c., must be of flannel, linen, or silk. All these articles are to be made in the same manner, that is, hemmed neatly at the ends; or if there be no selvages, or but indifferent ones, all round. Nothing looks more slovenly than ragged or unhemmed cloths, which are for domestic use. Little girls of the humbler classes might be employed by the more affluent, in making up those articles and a suitable remuneration be given them. They would thus become more sensible of the value of time, and would contract habits

amed, if necessary. Nothing in a well directed family should bear the impress of neglect, or be suffered to assume an untidy appearance. Clothes bags of different sizes, should also be provided, of two yards in length, and either one breadth doubled, in which case only one seam will be required; or of two breadths, which makes the bag more suitable for large articles of clothing. These bags are to seamed up neatly at the bottom, and to have strings which will draw, run in at the top. The best material is canvas, or good, strong unbleached linen. In the kitchen department, yo

rse linen, neatly hemmed round, furnished

rm a half square. The top must be hemmed, and be furnished with thr

could not otherwise be introduced, ar

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und; sometimes with a thin tape, made for that purpose, and called "flannel binding." It is also common to bind flannel with sarcenet ribbon. The binding

es. In putting it on, it is best to sew it with silk drawn out of the

th, and the needle must be passed three ways, in order that the stitch may be complete. The first is aslant from the person, toward the right hand; the second is downward, toward you: and the third is the reverse of the first, that

. It is made by inclosing a cord, of the proper thickness, in a strip

ble to place them, one against another. In double p

o the space between each, notched on a card. They look the best run on with small and

aterial of the proper size; turn in the corners neatly, and work

by the sale of which, they procure more ample supplies for the funds of charity. We have good reason to believe, that many well-disposed persons would be glad, in this way, to aid the cause of humanity-and to devote a portion of their leisure hours to the augmenting of the resources of benevolence-but they are destitute o

AG

4 5 6

14 15 16

24 25 26

34 35 36

44 45 46

54 55 56

64 65 66

74 75 76

84 85 86

4 95 96 97

04 105 106 10

14 115 116 11

canvas, and counting the corresponding number of threads, necessary to form a square like the diagram; she will perceive the lines represent the threads of the canvas, the squares numbered being the holes formed by th

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the various occurrences in the life of Harold, from his arrival in Normandy, to the fatal battle of Hastings, is a standing proof. Ladies of high rank employed themselves thus, for various purposes, previous to the reformation; and it is a fact, worthy of especial notice, that in those ages, when it has been required for the adornment of the temples, and the encouragement of honorable valor and has thus become associated with the sanctifying influences of religion and manly virtue, it has flourished most.[64-*] Queen Adelicia, wife of Henry I.; Ann, queen of France; Catherine, of Aragon; Lady Jane Grey; Mary Queen of Scots; and Queen Elizabeth, all excelled in this delightful art. At the Reformation, or soon after that event, needlework began sensibly to decline, and continued to do so, until the commencement of the present century. At that time, a new

n 13, and so continue to the end. This stitch is proper for grounding, and for groups of flowers; but in the latter case, it will produce the

, one stitch, up 41 down 23, up 43 down 21, and so continue till your work is finished. A

p 3 down 25, up 3 down 21, up 43 down 21, one stitch. Four, six, or eight threads may be taken in depth, and two in width, according as taste may su

e. Bring your needle up No. 11 down 13, up 2 down 22, one stitch; up 31 do

32, up 12 down 34, one stitch. Owing to the number of times the wool is crossed, each stit

working designs, copied from oil paintings. Bring your needle up No. 2 down 21, one stitch, up 3 down 22, up 4 down 23, and so on to the

s, the centre of which are the two on which the short stitches were worked. Thus you must continue the short and long stitches alternately, until you have finished the row. In the next, the long stitches must come under

etween every other stitch must be filled up with half stitches; for instance, up 81 down 101, up 83 down 103. It is also sometimes worked covering six and eight threads of the canvas at a time, coming back three or four threads, in the same proportion as the directions given. This stitch is proper for grounding, when the design is w

e long stitch with which you began. Thus proceed until you have ten threads on the cross, which will make a square: of course you must, in the same manner, form all the squares necessary to complete the row. You can vary the pattern considerably by making the edges irregular, which is done by lowering your slant stitches, the first one two, and the next one thread, and so proceeding. This will, in our opinion, improve the appearan

three steps up, and so proceed until your point is of a sufficient depth. This stitch looks pretty, wo

to left, and back again. Finish each row by a stitch across, between them, taking a

rs, we believe of a king of France. Take twelve threads, and reduce two each stitch, until the l

wnward, and pass the needle as before; then cross upward over two threads aslant, and again pass over four threads, always wor

and crossed from right to left, the needle passing out at the left, in the middle of the fou

ng three threads between every triple row of cross stitch. Then across the rows work in queen stitch with double wool; but instead of taking two distinct threads for each stitch, you may take one thread of the preceding stitch; this will give an added thickness to you

ght way of the corners; the stitches are over three threads. Your work as in raised work, putting the colors in as you come to them, and counting three stitches in

that, you undertake, it will be well for you to recollect, that nothing is lost by taking time to think. However trivial and unimportant our actions may be, they should always be preceded by mature

oidered scarf was a common mark of

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threads, reducing at every stitch, one thread for six rows, and thus continue decreasing and increasing alternately, to form squares like diamonds, to the end of the row

re, and leaving spaces equal to those occupied by cross stitch, which you must fill up with Irish stitch, working across the canvas. You can employ an

hes in each shade. Commence a stitch, over ten threads, and drop one each time, until you have taken eight stitches; the intermediate space

y contrasted, and the diamonds composed of beads, is exceedingly beautiful. The shade

the fourth and fifth the same number below the third; the next three the same; and then six in the same proportion. You then increase, and so render the arch uniform. The pattern then looks like the head of a Gothic column reversed; and the centre should be so disposed as t

and increasing one thread each way; then decrease to two in the same manner; and so proceed, until the row is completed. Begin the next row two

lin patterns, and may be done either in cross stitch, or in straight stitch pattern: the edge is finished in cross stitch with wool. You may imitate a

ch, dropping a thread at the top as before, but keeping the bottom even with the fifth stitch; your seventh stitch must be in six threads, decreasing two both at the top and bottom; and your last will be on two threads, worked in t

d between each stitch: begin the next row two threads down, with a stitch over two threads, and procee

t stitch. The pattern is to be worked in three shades, of the same color; the centre forming a diamond in the lightest shade, t

ghteen threads, and proceed as before for six rows; leave a space of four threads, and commence as at first. Form the second row in the same manner, leaving four threads between the longest stitches in each row: the rows may be worked in any number of shades, taking care to preserve uniform

shade, but the same color, and the shades of each must be turned alternately the opposite way. The corner stitch should be of some brilliant colored silk, if not of gold thread: the top of one square

forms a beautiful specimen: work six rows of any length you choose, dropping one stitch at the top and adding one to the bottom of each row; then proceed upwards, for six rows, and you will obtain a beautiful pointed wave, the seventh row forming the centre; then work nine rows, of which the first, third, fifth seventh, and n

s to form a diamond of six sides. The second row must be begun with twelve threads, so as to join the longest stitch in the former row. When each r

NS AS TO

terials proper for working them, are silk and wool, with gold or any other kind of bea

chenille is proper for the flowers, and the stalks and le

aced in brilliant silk, and for the centre employ two shades of the same color, working half in each shade; the medallion sho

ould be in fine twisted silk: any color may be used. In other cases, white wool, white silk, silver and glass beads, and several other materials are in requisition; so that here is ample scope for classification and arrangement. A mourning bag looks well done to imitate lace, worked in black floss silk, and ornamented

pted. They should be worked in two colors, highly contrasted,

for herself. To one, who is desirous to excel, we have said enough; a little thought will enable her to apply the general principles, here laid down, to any particu

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racing silk, satin, cloth, and velvet; and the silk employed in working i

required; the darker shades should be worked into the centre of the flower, (and it is often advisable to work them in French knots,)[79-*] and thence proceed with the lighter, until you come to the lightest, which forms the outline. The pattern must be correctly drawn upon the material, and in working leaves y

sed, and be careful not to have the lengths of chenille too long, as it is apt to get rough in the working. For flowers, it is necessary that the shades should not be t

le to the attainment of excellence in this kind of work. Pursue the same method with your colors, as in flat embroidery, only working them much closer. The most striking effect is produced when the flowers or animals are rais

side, as near as possible to where it passes through, in order that none may appear on the wrong side, which would occasion much trouble in drawing it, even when removed from the frame. When finished, and while in the frame, it will be prop

which is better, a tracing paper, properly prepared; after which you will find it easy to pierce it through with a piercer, taking care not to run one hole into another. Lay the paper so prepared upon the material which you intend to work, and dust it with a pounce bag, so that the powder may go through the holes; the paper must then be carefully removed, and if the material be dark, take a camel's hair pencil, and paint the marks with a mixture of white lead and gu

ing of dahlias: begin with the centre knot

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lly attended to, or much unnecessary t

f too long, should be wrapped round the poles with tissue paper, to keep it from dust and the friction of the arms, as that is essential to the beauty of the work. It must in all cases be rolled under, or it will occasion much trouble

tch your cloth in the frame as tight

the work is finished the canvas must be cut, and the threads drawn out, first one and then the other. It is necessary to be especially careful in working, not to split the threads, as that would prevent

looks well for sofas, arm chairs, &c., but is by no mea

ut of the frame, to appear tolerably straight. Should it after all be crooked, it should be nailed at the edges to a square board, and the work may then be pulled even by the threads so as to become perfectly straight. The back of the work should then be slightly brushed over with isinglas

isinglass, but it is highly improp

IONS FOR

the thing here principally required. It will be proper that the scrol

and the materials of which they are to be formed; after which, they must be cut out and sewed on in the neatest manner possible. They are then to be braided with their own colors round the edges; you must also braid the tendrils and the veins of leaves; work the centre of leaves in a long stitch, an

special care that the beads are all turned the same way, that the whole may appear uniform. Work the pattern wi

as sharp as possible, and in turning the points, work one stitch up close to the point where you turn the braid, and another immediately afterwards to keep it in its place. Vein the leaves in a bouquet with purse silk use gold braid in finishi

ree inches broad, in silk or w

in silks, as distinct and bright as possible, and with the utmost variety of colors. The beauty

contrast of shades as you employ in cross stitch; if t

domestic affection. For dress waistcoats, embroider satin, either in the form of a wreath, round the edge of the waistcoat, o

as this renders them unharmonious, when contrasted with the sky. Represent water by shades of a blue grey: the sky should be a serene blue, with much closeness, and mingled with clouds composed of varying tints of a white and a y

ear jumbled and unsightly. It will also be necessary to fasten off at every shade, and not to pass from one flower to another, as in that case the fastenings would become visible on the right side, and thus impair the beauty of the performance. In working a landscape, some recommend placing behind the canvas a painted sky, to avoid the trouble of working one. As a co

till you come to the lightest, following the distinction of contrast exhibited by the Berlin patterns. If you wish to introduce silk

ust be worked in silk: the larger patterns may be done in either silk or wool. Sometimes the flowers are worked

cross stitch: the material to be used, is what is called slacks, (a kind of worsted,) which must be six or eight times d

rk with silk. If you employ both silk and wool, silk must be used for the lighter shade

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carriage bags, sofa pillows, &c.; and also for ladies'

ern is especially proper

orking covers for hassocks, as well

elegant for flower, fruit, or work basket

hen worked, it is found to be very durable, and its

h used in the ornamental parts of dress, and is productive of a most plea

parlor, or the side-board, adorned with the elegant productions of a daughter, or a sister, this kind of work is at all times

ex to offer an elegant present to a father, husband, or brother, and thus to increase the hallowed pleasures of the domestic

erial for baskets, and various

painting and design may be materially promoted: the scenes of former days may be delineated on the historic canvas, or the portrait of a departed friend ma

tility, by exciting in the minds of the young, an ardent desire to become acquaint

or note books, ornamental card cases, hand screens

f work is well known, and is so general, t

vers, sofas, chairs, &c.; indeed it always looks pretty,

ofa cushions, bottle stands, or

e may be introduced with good effect; but especial attentio

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INSTRU

e white; and if for dark grounding, a striped fabric is employed. The stripes will sometimes appear through the wool. To prevent this it will be necessary to rub over the surface with a little Indian ink water previous to commencing working, but care must be taken not to let the mixture run into the edges of the work, and it m

fastenings coming together which they will be apt to do if this suggestion is not attended to. For working in tent stitch with single wool, the canvas must not have more than fourteen threads to an inch; for cross stitch you must have a canvas not coarser than twenty-two threads to an inch; for the former, you will for every two and a half square inches require a skein of wool; in

the former. To obtain the proper tints for the face, &c., is no easy task; but it must be carefully attended to, as almost the whole beauty of the work depends upon it. The shades in these parts of the figure must be extremely close; indeed upon shading of the features the perfection of the performance mainly depends. The drapery also demands considerable care: the shades must be very distinct, particularly the lighter ones i

you have completed the next row. You work across the flowers; and in order to save an unnecessary waste of time, as well as to facilitate your work, it will be best to thread as many needles as you require shades, taking care not to get the various shades mixe

uire the largest for the breast, and the upper parts of the wings. Cross stitch may be employed in working the beak, or feet, and is indeed preferable. You may work leaves, either

nds. For small flowers, so many shades are rarely necessary. The two darkest shades should be strong, the others soft; this secures sufficiency of contrast, without impairing that harmony of tints, which is so indispensible. You must recollect, that for work done in tent stitch, a greater contrast of shade is required, than for that done in cross stitch. This remark should never be lost sight of. A proper attention to the shading of leaves, is indispensible; the kinds of green required, for this purpose, are bright grass green, for a rose; Saxon green, for lilies, convolvolus, peonies, &c.; French green, for iris, marigold, narcissus, &c.; and for poppies, tulips, &c.; a willow green, which has a rather bluer tint than French green is generally; and for leaves which stand up above the flowers, or near them, it is proper to work the tips in a very light green, as reflecting the rays of light: the next shade should be four times darker, or three at the least; the next two; then the fourth shade, two darker than the third; and the fifth, two darker than the fourth: take care that the veins of leaves be distinctly marked, and those which are

his accomplishment to draw off her attention from the more serious or useful business of life, she will act decidedly wrong and had far better never learn it at all. Another thing to be especially guarded against, is, not to devote too much time to this, or any other engagement, at once; the mind and body are both injured, to a serious extent, by dwelling too long on a single object. Let it never for a moment be forgotten, relaxation a

der, characterize al

n paper, writing the color on each, and numbering them accord

trouble or inconvenience, and use every possible care t

g and design; and to render every accomplishment subservient to s

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s chapter, we wish to make a few remarks; which,

ings, by Mistress Montague, her silk-woman, yet her maids of honor were not allowed to wear an article of dress, which her royal pride deemed only suited to regal magnificence. We believe the first pair of knitted stockings, ever made in England, were the production of one William Rider, an apprentice, residing on London Bridge; who, having accidentally seen a pair of knitted worsted stockings, while detained on some business, at the house of one of the Italian merchants, made a pair of a similar kind, which he presented to the Earl of Pembroke, 1564. The stocking-frame was the invention of Mr. W. Lee, M. A., who had been expelled from Cambridge, for marrying, in contravention to the statutes of the university. Himself and his wife, it seems, were reduced to the necessity of depending upon the skill of the latter, in the art of knittin

ills that fles

rs. Wingfield, upon the estates of Lord de

the little finger, and thence bring it over the thumb, and round the two fore fingers. By this process the young learner will find that she has formed a loop: she must then bring the needle under the lower thread of the material, and above that which is ove

turned over it, which is to be taken up, and the under loop, or stitch, is to be let

d by knitting with the material before the needle; and instead of

stitches alternately. Three plain, an

bringing the material r

umber of stitches by knitting two to

omitting to slip out the left hand needle, and to pass the material forward and form a second stitch, putting

pearl stitch eve

UND, the whole of the stitches on two, three, or more needles. Note, in cas

s to pass it between the needles

ad before the needle. In knitting the succ

ssing it from one needle to

is necessary to do so during the progress of the work. The best way is to pla

the first over the second, and so proceeding to the last sti

stitches, done at the top of stockings, and are

ntal fabrics or uses in domestic economy. The fair votary of this art must be careful neither to knit too tight or too loose. A medium, which will soon be acquired by care and practice, is the best, and show

diments of this useful art, we proceed to give

TCHES IN

e silk in front, a stitch is to be slipped, and you knit the next, pulling the one you slipped over it; you knit the next, and the succeeding one is pearled; proceed in this manner for one round.

begin the work by taking off the first stitch, knit one stitch, knit off two stitches together, and make a s

read, in which case it forms a beautiful kind of insertion work for frocks, capes, collars, and other articles of dress. If

d. Second row the same, taking care to begin where the last is finished, that is, if you ended with plain stitches, you begin with the pearled. Proceed in the same way with the third row, and you will have a succession of squares, of insid

proceed as in the third row, and so on alternately, until you have completed sixteen rows. You then knit three stitches plain, and take off the four succeeding ones upon a spare pin. The next three stitches from behind the pin, are to be knitted so as to miss it completely, and the material is to be drawn so tight, as that the pins m

two ways. If it be for a shawl, begin at the corn

ccording to the following directions: First, knit a stitch. Second, make a stitch. Third, slip the next. Fourth, knit two stitches together. Fifth, put the stitch you slipped over the two las

rows in plain knitting; then, for the double stitch, begin the row by knitting a stitch, and pass the material in front, between the knitting pins. Then a stitch is t

every stitch to the end of the row. In the next row, you reverse the work, knitting the stitches that were before slipped, and slipping the knitted ones. The third kind is very simple, and can be done quicker than the others. It is worked on the wrong side, and when completed must be turned inside out; hence it is necessary to kn

is held in the left hand, and the material also, which is to be wrapped round the little finger once or twice. It passes to the needles over the fore finger. To fo

nit four, and so proceed. The fourth row you pearl three, knit one, and pearl six, alternately. The fifth row is plain knitting. The next row you pearl two, knit two, pearl five, and so on to the end. Next knit two, pearl four and knit three, alternately. Nex

es that were slipped before. Next knit a row slipping the two stitches as before. The next row is pearled still slipping the two stitches. The succeeding two rows are knitted and pearled like the others, and the two stitches are still to be slipped. The next row is pearled, and you take up

h is wanted to fit easily yet firmly. You are to set on any number of loops you please, and knit one ro

and you begin by setting on any even number of stitches you require. A loop is made, by throwing the cotton over the pin; you then knit a loop, and make and knit alternately; each of the two last are knitte

new stitch by bringing the thread in front, and knit a stitch; the thread is again to be brought in front, and the last stitch pearled, which completes the pattern.

wo taken as one; again pass the material forward, and knit one stitch. Second row, the same, except that when in the first you knitted three stitches, knit one; and when one, you knit three. For the third row, you pass the material a

ther to make a loop over the needle. Two stitches are then knitted together, and you thus continue making the loops, and

nit two plain stitches, and then make a large one, by turning the silk twice over the needle

wool upon the first pin, and twisting it round it by bringing it over from behind, and putting it behind again. You are then to knit two loops together, and the pin must be put

d. The first row must be plain: then, in beginning the second, take off the first stitch, and knit two together in pearl stitch. Next make on

row is done plain. The third row is as follows: two stitches knitted plain; make one stitch, and narrow two in one; then knit one stitch; make and narrow, as before to the end; then knit a row plain. For the fifth row, knit three stitches plain, and thus proceed as in the third row. The sixth row is don

st loop is slipped, the material brought in front; the stitch is pearled, and repeat so to the end

f each row you slip the first stitch, and knit the second. Then make a stitch by putting the cotton over the pin; kn

; third, slip one; fourth, two are to be knitted together, and the one slipped is to be drawn over the knitted ones; thus you proceed to the end of the row. The two next are to be commenced with the other color; and thus you work two rows with each color, su

o the end. Commence the second row by pearling two stitches; pass the material over the pin twice; again pearl two stitches, and so proceed to the end. In the next row, knit two; pass the material round the p

p, then raise, knit the next one plain, then raise, knit plain till you come to the next raising, and omit knitting the two together as in the first row. Third row, you knit plain to the raising, and then proceed as in the first row. You knit the fourth as the second; and so proceed alternately, until you have twelve rows. Then in the stitches you had previ

row, by knitting one stitch; pass the material in front, and form a new stitch, by knitting two together. This is t

Then knit four stitches, as at the commencement, and so proceed for six rounds, increasing before and after each middle stitch. You knit till within one of where you decreased. The stitch thus left is to be slipped, and you then knit two together, and draw the slipped loop over it. You are then to knit one plain round, and the next row is also plain, except the loops which are over the middle stitches, where you are to insert a bead, by bringing it through the stitches. You next knit a round pl

is begun with a plain stitch, and the others are plain and pearled alte

ain, and repeat to the end of the row, finishing with four plain loops. Commence the second row with three pearled stitches, knit three plain, pearl seven, repeat as before. Third row, knit two plain,

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n ninety stitches, and knit two turns; then in gold color three turns, and again two in black: this forms the narrow stripe. Then form the broad stripe thus: knit two stitches, and turn; then knit two of the black, and turn; this must be continued, taking every time two additional stitches of the black, until you are with

three plain, and twenty-four double knitting; again knit three rows plain, one open, repeat the three plain rows, again repeat the double knitting, and the plain and open rows as before; you next proceed to form the hinder part of the cap, by casting on twenty-four stitches at each end of the pins; knit forty-eight rows of double knitting, take in to the size of the cro

rm the front. Three inches of the cast off part are to be sewed together, and the rest is to be drawn up for the crown. Then cast

n stitches are knitted with white; turn; knit a row with blue; turn: and so continue, until you have five rows of one color, and four of the other. The thirteen stitches are then to be done in blue, and seventeen to correspond, are to be added; turn: this side is finished like the other, decreasing from the heel. You then sew up the heel and toe, so as to form a shoe. You are then, with four needles, to pick up the stitches round the ankle and fore foot, putti

em desirable. Begin, by making a stitch, laying the material over the needle; put it through two loops, and knit them as one; repeat to the end of the row; thus continue t

itch. The comforter is to be done in double knitting, and may be finished with a fringe and border at the end. Without the fr

wards; then take twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side, and you will have twenty-one left one each end. Form

about 130 loops, and knit in French or honey-comb stitch, which you like; or any other pretty pattern you prefer,

he number of stitches to be cast on is thirty-four. Knit a square, plain, which is to be doubled, and sewn u

back, knit them; repeat to the end: these four must be repeated, until the piece is about half a yard long, taking care that the shading is as correct as possible. You must here use No. 19 ne

ught forward, then slip one, knit two, and pass over them the slip stitch; repeat second and fourth row plain. Third and fifth ro

he back; again you bring the wool forward, and knit three, as before. The third row is pearled; and the fourth is the second repeated, only beginning by knitting three stitches together. Fifth row, the same as the third; and thus proceed with any number of rows you

three rows three pearl stitches, and three plain; second three rows, knit three stitches plain, and thr

r; knit one, and slip one, in succession. Second and sixth row, with the same color; knit one, bring the wool forward, and slip one; pass t

roceed in this way with the green twist for fifteen rounds; then with the orange knit one plain row and turn, knit seven rows as before, knit one plain row and turn, then reverse the narrowings, so as to take up the loops at the beginning of every row of points, and make a loop on each side: you are to have eight rows of po

one, and put on one bead at every knitted loop. Second row, you knit a plain round. Third row, raise, knit two plain, raise, two plain; the raising is at the beginning and middle of each needle; and you thus proceed, until you have fifty beads on a needle, for a bag, and eighteen for a purse. To

gin to raise every alternate round until you have forty-seven loops on the pins, knit el

the second row reversed; the fourth is the same as the second; and you thus proceed with each row, alternately, for any length you please. A bag knitted the same way, and put over blue or crimson silk, looks extremely handso

e third row, the centre stitch on each needle must be seamed, and you must increase on each side of it every other row, until you have attained the width required. You then knit the fourth and ever

sire, knitting one stitch plain, and the next pearled. Begin every other row w

tting it when it occurs in the next row; then knit two stitches together, knit one, make one as before, knit two together, knit eight, and so proceed to the end of the row. When you have knitted as many rows as you requ

ch row, and make one, by bringing the material in front; then slip a stitch the contrary way, knit the next, and so proceed to the end of the row: you c

ht forward, then slip one, knit one, and bring the slip stitch over it. Knit one, again bring the silk

e pattern. Make one stitch, slip one, and knit two stitches together, putting the slipped stitch over the two knitted as one. Repeat this until you have got to four stitches from the end; then again make a stitch, and knit the remainder plain. The next row is to be do

ful to increase at the end most sloped, at each end of the row; but at the other, you are only to increase at the end, and not at the beginning: having knitted one of the fronts, knit the other to match it, and then begin the back. Commence at the bottom, or narrow part of the waist, and increase at each end of every row, until it is wide enough to reach from one shoulder to the other, and then

itted in at least three colors, including white; in a quilt one yard and a half square, there will be 225 pieces, 113 of which should be white. Make the tufts as follows: wind four-thread fleecy about 12 times round a grooved wooden mesh, one inch in width: then slip a coarse thr

oose; three-threads fleecy is generally preferred. Knit one plain stitch, then two together, and so on alternately, to

se cast on an equal number of stitches, according to the size required, and knit

titches in rows, the same as the heel, and taking up one of the others with the last loop of each row, till all is taken off. There will thus be nine stitches when the heel is finished. Having got thus far, you proceed to form the foot as follows. You take up sixteen on each side of the heel, in the second row, and taking them up, you make a seam on each side of the instep, knitting another stitch in the loop under the first and last, which prevents holes in the corners, that would otherwise occur. Then narrow every second round on the heel sides of the seam until the number of stitches are the same as those in the instep, or what is commonly called the fore foot needle. You will have for the instep 28, 32, 34, 40, or 46, as the case may be; and the rounds between the heel and toe narrowings, will be 1

in the same manner as the toe

e seam, and then the loops must be taken up, the end one as close as possible. Take three stitches from each side of the fore foot needle to the other, and knit a round plain; after which, widen every fifth stitch on both sides of the heel. Alternate rows of the heel needles are then to be narrowed until only 36 loops remain on each. The stitches to be narrowed are the fifth and sixth from the ends. Knit the feet of a proper length, and then narrow at t

54 stitches on large needles, and pearl every o

rd 85; they have 16, 23, or 24 turns to the heel, in which there are 25, 29, or 43 stitches, as the size may require. The instep has 24, 25

make a stitch, knit two together, again make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, knit six plain. Eleventh row plain. Twelfth, knit six plain, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, knit six plain. Thirteenth row plain. Fourteenth, knit six plain, pearl three, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit two together, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit six plain. Fifteenth row plain. Sixteenth, knit six plain, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl five, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, knit six p

knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl four, knit four plain. Fifth row plain. Sixth row knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, knit six plain. Seventh row plain. Eighth row, same as the sixth. Ninth plain. Tenth as the fourth. Eleve

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f the needles anciently used in netting. They are to be found in one of the museums at Berlin. The Egyptian nets were made of flax, and were so fine and delicate, that according to Pliny, "they could pass through a small ring, and a single person could carry a sufficient number of them to surround a whole wood. Julius Lupus, while governor of Egypt, had some of these

dies of Europe, in every advanced state of civilization, and, in the present day, is cultivated with considerab

eedle will thus be brought round, in front of the mesh, and must pass under the first loop, between the mesh and the fingers, and thus through the loop called the foundation loop, and thence over that portion of the material which goes backward for the purpose of forming the second loop. The needle must be kept in its position, till the right hand is so brought round as to be able to pull it through, and then the needle being drawn out and held in the right hand, the worker must disengage all the fingers of the left except the last, which is to retain its hold of the second loop, which was formed by passing the material round it. By means of this hold, retained by the little finger, the material is to be drawn to the mesh, and the knot thus formed be drawn tight to the foundation. This process is to be repeated, until a sufficient number of sti

or silk you net with: this bead is to be brought to the front of the mesh, and held there until the knot is made; at the back of the mesh, bring the needle and thread, passing the point through the bead which is upon the front of the mesh. The needle and th

ting three rows plain, at the beginning, the first row is to be composed of one loop stitch, and three plain stitches, repeated until the row is finished: then in working the second row, commence with a plain stitch, then follow with a loop, then two plain stitches, and repeat as before. For the third row begin with one or two plain stitches, make

n stitches; again withdraw the mesh, work a plain stitch, and so proceed to the end. The fifth is begun with two plain stitches; then form a loose stitch, withdraw the mesh, work one plain loop, again withdraw the mesh, and finish with two plain stitches. The sixth row commences with three stitches plain, then make one loose stitch, and finish with two plain ones. For the seventh row, commence as in the last case; make a long loop, and finish with two plain stitches. The eighth row begins with three stitches in plain netting; withdraw the mesh, net

ith long loop, in which you next increase two stitches; repeat to the end of the row. None of the rows are at

be worked in one shade, and the next needful must be matched with the utmost care. It is not possible

finger loop into the first stitch, and thence into the second. Then let the second be drawn through the first, and the first through the second, finishing the stitch by releasing your fingers and pulling the material tight. The succeeding stitch is a small loop, that appears to cross the stitches tw

plain; make a loose stitch, and repeat. Begin the fourth with a loose stitch, net one plain, repeat to the end; commence the fifth row by netting one plai

loop, having previously half twisted it. Then net the first loop plain, net the fourth as the second, again net a stitch plain, and thus proceed with plain and half-twisted stitches, alternately. The third row is the same as the

stitch through the second at the back, and net it; then the second stitch is pulled through the middle of the first and netted: you do the same with each two of the other stitches,

ng the fourth stitch, and then the third, and so on to the end. Work the third row with No. 9 as before, and the fourth row as the second, only netting the first loop plain, and then taking, first the third, and then the second, and so on to the end, finishing with a l

w as before, and collect all the loops increased in each of the twice four loops formed in the last row, into one; then net four loops plain; repeat this to the end of the row, and net two plain as before. The third row is plain netting. The fourth row has two loops netted plain, then two more plain; you then increase four on each of the next two loops,

ion with any color you please. Net fifty stitches and return back again, proceed as before, only d

thout netting it; that is between the stitch you last netted and the one you are about to net. A loop is then made, which is not to be netted separately, as that would increase a stitch in the next row; but it is to be taken up with the last of the seven stitches previously n

a row of loop stitches, then three rows plain, and a row of loops as before. You may net to any length you please. The

ide of the mesh, between it and the fore finger; the fingers and loop are still to be kept on them as before; the middle is then to be reversed, and brought down through the first loop, (on the fo

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n the foundation as you please. Net three rows wi

ne hundred stitches, net one plain row. Then in the next row, net a plain and a bead stitch successively.

in a gilt ring, and finish the bag. Draw it up with ribbon, and place a gilded or silk tassel at the bottom. Y

introduce the lighter silk, by joining it to the seventh stitch of the first row of the dark color, and net seven rows upon the succeeding seven stitches of the foundation. You must be careful to loop in the last dark stitch on each

n the next row, you are to net five stitches and increase two, netting the whole, as in the first row; net the seventh like the second, and let this be repeated for the four succeeding rounds, a plain and a pattern round alternately; in the next round, which is plain, pass the silk twice round the mesh, and net seven stitches; increase two stitches in the eighth round and net seventeen in plain and pattern, alternate rounds; in the eighteenth increase two, and net five rounds; again increase two, and net five; and on each side again increase two; net three rounds after the last increase, continuing

silk with the small one, alternately, till you have netted twenty four rows. Then you form the wrong side, by netting one row of wool with the larger mesh, and two rows of the same material with the small one. You will require nine rows netted with the wide mesh, with two narrow rows between e

rth row is to be done two stitches in one, with wool, using a small mesh. Then for the inside half of the cuff, net fourteen rows with the large and small meshes, successively. These to be done in silk and wool alternately. The next th

he same. Then with a flat mesh, the width of the fringe, placing the grooved edge downward, net one row. These latter lo

row, having three stitches on each loop of the row preceding: you now introduce silk of the same color as that of the wool first used, and net one row with the narrow mesh; in that row all the stitches of the last row, netted in wool, must be taken up separately; the foundation is now to be removed, and rows of the lighter colored wool and silk, are to be netted to correspond. Net another piece of work in exactly the same manner as the former, and taking one of the pieces, fold it in the middle, and net one row with the narrow mesh

and increase eighteen stitches into each of the loops on the foundation. For the second row, use the mesh No. 14, and net a plain stitch into each loop. Then, with the mesh No. 18, net the third row in long loops, by passing the material twice round the mesh; you are to increase two

ation of eighty stitches on which to commence, and you net to the length of ten inches. Net up the sides and damp it slightly,

nine inches in length is sufficient. Employ a mesh No. 10, and fine netting sil

gain net round, and increase as before. Net the remaining stitches. You must then net sixteen rounds, increasing two stitches, to form the thumb, in the same place as the other increased stitches, every other round. Join the thumb stitches, and net seven rounds, which is the length of the thumb, decreasing a stitch or two in every round.

at mesh No. 1, and increase twenty stitches in each loop. Net the third with a round mesh No. 14, netting all

oop twelve stitches. Net the third round with the round mesh No. 15, and be careful to net the increased stitches plain. The last row is netted plain, wit

twenty-three rows in plain netting. Then introduce the other color, or white; and again, in the same manner, net twenty-three rows. Proceed

g on 210 stitches, and netting four rows with the smaller mesh, and thirty or thirty-two with the larger one. These repeated, six times, complete

another needle, introduce your other color, and put on ten stitches upon the foundation loops, commencing ten loops from the sixty of the first color. When you have reached the last of the sixty, which you will do when you have put on the ten, you must draw the mesh out, and pass the needle with th

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n, and can be applied to a variety of useful and ornamental purposes. It is most frequently adopted in working shawls, table covers, pillows, mats, slippers, carriage mats, and a great

hain is of the length required. Each must be made rather tight as it is drawn through its preceding loop. This forms the foundation, and the young worker may then proceed with the article she intends to make. She must pass the needle through the last loop of the foundation, and catching the silk or other material from behind, draw it through and so proceed with every succeeding loop of the foundation, until the row is completed. Having thus

stitch. In making common purses in croch

before finishing the stitch. This stitch is more

in the fifth stitch of the chain. This is to be repeated to the foundation. The rest of the rows are to be done in the same way, attaching every fifth stitch to the

e passed through the first loop of the chain, through which bring the material, and you will thus have three stitches on the needle. Through the two first of these the material must be drawn, which will leave two; through these the material must be again drawn, and that will leave

two long stitches are made together, by passing the needle through the next loop without

eat and elegant, and may have beads introduced, which produce a charming effect. The following directions will enable the novice to work w

ads of various colors may be introduced, so as to form a diamond. A

have only to take both meshes of the cha

orwards, first taking one mesh of the chain, and

titch you have worked, and to fasten it on by working the stitch as usual; but this will leave it on the wrong side; to prevent which, you must bring the crocheting thread to the front, having it on the fore finger of the left hand: by thus ke

one last made. Thus the edge stitch is formed. It is of importance to attend to the regular working of this stitch, because if it is not done, you will lose in each ro

hrough, both meshes of the chain, and working two

se, make two stitches in the mesh; and in the latt

g in different colors, so as to conceal the half stitch. This must be done with c

trary wise, and working a few stitches with both. The latter process is performed

two stitches up and down alternately, between the stripes

means making one stitch of a chain before the first and after the

the following manner. Let the threads, that are not required, be laid along the fore finger of the left hand; and the crochet needle must be inserted in the usual manner, into the stitch; you are to let it go below the threads you are carrying on, and the thread with which you are working is to be draw

ith, the end to be toward the tip of the finger, the ball will of course be toward the arm; work over it for about six stitches, proceeding as you do in carrying over the threads; then by the thread you worked with, but on the same finger, and continue with the thread you have last fas

llows. First, make the stitch as usual, then work it again from the hinder o

itches are taken on the needle at the s

that no one will be at a loss to comprehend their meaning. But we cannot promise any votary of this delightful employment, even tolerable success, unles

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ng two loops without working them, and catching the thread from behind, pull it through. Thus, you will have on the needle three loops; and you must now throw a stitch on the hook, which is, in like manner, to be pulled through the first loop, near the point. By this, you will still have three loops on the hook. Again, throw on a stitch as before, which draw through the two first loops on the end of the hook; then throw on another stitch, which must be pulled through the two loops remaining on the hook. You will then have only one loop upon the needle; and thus one stitch is completed. Make two chain stitches, as before, and then perform another stitch; and so proceed, as in the former row, but instead of inserting the hook in the third loop, as before, pass it into the first open portion of the work, and work the stitch over the two chain stitches of the second row, as follows. The needle being

nd like the second of the last; and finish with the fifth row of the same pattern. Persian cotton, No.

ond, third, and fifth rows of crochet edging, for collars. The material is Persian

rows of the first pattern; if you have it wider, work it as the third row. It

e, as it is liable to cut, if done over tight. The size of the stitch depends, of course, upon that of the needle; and, therefore, care

may be white. The next five rows are to correspond, reversing the colors and shades. The second stripe is composed of seven rows: the first, three distinct shades of the same color; the middle one, a contrast; and the other three, the same shades as the first, but reversed as before. The third stripe is the same

lets, two blues, a brown, and a yellow. On the gold color, in two blues and one claret, white, lilac, and green. On the blue, in two scarlets, two greens, one drab, white, brown, and orange. And on the scarlet, one green, one white, two blues, a claret, and a bright yellow. We have m

The second color is employed to form the ground of the pattern. Work one plain row, and then work large stars, in a color to contrast with the plain ground. Between the large stars, work small ones, in a different color. One row of plain ground is to be crocheted on each side of the pattern; and before commencing the second stripe, repeat

in rows, until it is eight inches across. You must increase your stitches, in each row, so as to preserve the work flat. Work the stitches i

of the second, and make one stitch plain. By twisting the chain, after every stitch, you will

and forty stitches, of any color you prefer, on which, you are to crochet three rows plain in the same color. Then, five rows, in a color

ost all cases, though easy of execution, the patterns are not easy to be described in writing. We have, however, done all that is required, to afford an insight into this kind of needlework; and have shewn tha

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thumb, between the second and third fingers: the needle is then to be inserted from behind the finger loop, up through the middle, between the thread which is on the needle, and the thread round the fingers. You must be careful to have the thread (on the needle) between you and the needle, after you have drawn it through. From the right hand to the left the needle must be extended as tight as possible, leaving loose the loop which is round the finger as you make the stitch with the loop, and not with that portion of the thread which is next the needle. You are to withdraw the second finger, and allow the loop round the fingers to form round the thread. The fingers are then to be again inserted, and form the stitch w

nly to work six scollops and draw them up close, so as to form a star. When made with precision and regularity, they

rk twenty stitches the same way to form the scollop. When it is finished, you must draw up the th

TER

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be made, of all the useful or ornamental accomplishments their circumstances and situations may enable them to acquire. We should never, for one moment, suffer the utile to be

ve stations. But, as those ladies, whose circumstances render a practical acquaintance with the arts here treated of, a matter of indifference, a knowledge of th

ependents; and, under a deep sense of her high responsibilities, will endeavor to improve, and fit them, by suitable and kindly-imparted instructions, for the proper discharge of the duties of that station, which it may be presumed they will in after days be called upon to fill. In this case, how useful will

ly beneficial. To those who are disposed to follow the example of the holy Dorcas, in providing garments for the deserving and destitute poor, an acquaintance wi

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the temporal condition of those beneath her influence, and she will soon find that the best affections of the heart are opened to the reception of instructions of a higher and still more important character. Hard indeed must be that heart which can resist the influence of genuine kindness exercised in a friendly Christian spirit. We once had the pleasure o

to be employed in the fabrication of each example given. Nothing can be more absurd, and mischievous than this. The young work-woman can only exercise her judgment, to any extent, in this department of her labors. The various stitches she must form according to the prescribed rule; because, in most instances, they can be performed in no other manner; but in the choice of materials, and colors, she should have free scope: here judgment, taste, and fancy, should range untrammelled by rules and forms; and yet this is rarely done, because t

ll calculated to promote: and if such be its importance, then it will be readily admitted by all, that he who has made the most im

e young lady, who is becoming expert and clever at her needle to reflect, as the beautiful fabric grows beneath her forming hand, that her work, and the power and skill to plan and execute it, is an emanation of the Immortal Mind; of that Mind, whose creative powers are a faint, but legible transcript of the Omnipotent Wisdom of the Deity. This thought gives a permanency to what would, in any other light be only transitory as the summer cloud. It is Omnipotent Wisdom and Power, which has contrived and executed all the beau

xert every energy which they possess. We wish them to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve some noble purpose; which will outlive the present hour. But to do this, the well-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul; and the elegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated, by the spirit of love. Thus, and thus only, can the occupations of a leisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good; and such they will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives, and placed in due subordination to the right exercise o

e fatal, than an idea that, for what we call trifles, we shall have no account to render. What we call trifles, may be, in their consequence, both to ourselves and others, the most important acts of our lives. It is not by great events that our characters are formed; but by the neglect or performance of our duties in that state of life, into which the Wisdom of our Heavenly Father has seen fit to call us. To elevate the sufferings, soothe the sorrows, increase the comforts, and enhance the joys of all around us, should b

t her cultivate, in her inmost soul, the conviction, that all her skill and power is imparted from on high-and let her be careful to make all she does, a sacrifice, acceptable to her God, by doing all in the spirit, and under the influence of that sac

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