Make Your Own Hats

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The lines which are to be emphasized should be carefully studied, as there a

es may be seen; also always match the thread to the straw. Straw braid may be sewed to a willow, buckram, neteen, or crinoline frame except when a very soft hat is desired; it may then be sewed and shaped over a wire or b

NG THE BRAID ON CROW

. In this case the braid must be put on first in order that the stitc

place on

e second row gradually up from the center back; do not make an abrupt curve, until the correct lap is reached, usually one-eighth of an inch. There will be found a thread at the edge of most braids which may be pulled up to take out

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length, depending upon the width and quality of the braid. Continue basting and sewing the braid until the headsize is reached and the braid extends up above the headsize wire one inch. If the brim is wider at some points than at others, the wider side must be filled in with short strips following the same curve, bei

e and cut the edge, allowing one-quarter of an inch to lap over the edge. Remove the basting from the f

f brim cover

slanting stitch, or if preferred the edge may be first bound with a bias piece of satin, or with a row of braid or gay-colored material. If the edge o

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ntil the center of the crown tip is reached, when a hole in the top of the crown may be made and the end pushed through and fastened on the underside. Keep the braid full enough so that it will lie flat al

oceed with the remaining strands, cutting one off at a time until only one remains to finish the center with. When the crown tip is completed, push the remaining end through a hole in the center of the crown tip and sew to the inside of the crown. When using this kind of braid the operation may be reversed, beginning at the center of

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and the strands cut in unequal lengths; also the strands of the other end which is to be joined to it should be cut of such length as to meet the corresponding ends and allow a lap of one inch. The ends cut in this way may be tucke

o lap the ends to look as though woven. This may be employed on a crown or brim or both, and it then becomes a part of the design. Also the

The braid of the side crown should cover these ends. The brim of a narrow hat is often covered with short lengths of braid radiating from the headsize wire,

braid, side c

f braid and

plain or corded,

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ot to attach the braid to the frame; slip the needle over the wire and finish sewing the braid while it is still pinned to the brim, then remove, press slightly, and sew a facing of braid

e foundation. They may be pressed slightly (after being removed from the wire crown over which they have been shaped) when they will be found to keep their shape. The brim would need a wire foundation to hold it out in shape and the braid should be caught down to the wire as it is being sewed. A small lace wire should be used for this foundation, four spokes together with the headsize wire and edge wire be

mes with maline,

aline, net, or georgette, must be carefully made, as the wire fram

rcle wire on the brim or the crown. A small tuck at the edge wire would make a softer looking edge than if put on plain. The fullness is then gathered in and sewed to the headsize wire. If the edge is left plain, a few rows of lacey-looking braid may be sewed on the edge. A wide tuck hanging dow

oft fabric. If a wire frame is used, it must first be covered with a thin plain material to serve as a foundation to which

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at it may be drawn down to fit the frame and may be laid o

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gthwise through the middle and gather the raw edges together a little less than one-quarter of an inch from the edge. This is sewed to the frame the same as braid,

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ew it is an advertisement, the place where we find the designer's name. A well-fitted lining, whether of somber or gay colored silk,

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of the headsize wire, plus one inch for seam. The width shoul

WIDE BIAS SATIN. CORD SEWED IN ONE EDGE; THE OT

bring the needle from the underside of the lining through the edge of the fold, catch a few threads of material on the hat opposite this thread, and put the needle back through the fold at the same point; bring the needle through the fold one-half inch from the first stitch and proceed in this manner until the seam is reached. Turn the other raw edge down one-half inch to t

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small wire to the inside of the hat at the headsize and tie. Lap the edge of the silk over the wire one-quarter of an inch. Gather the silk close to the wire using a small running stitch. After com

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away to be made up for their trade and the linings may be bought ready-made, but alm

of bias material long enough to reach around the bottom of the crown wide enough to meet this crown tip at all points. After pinning it to the crown tip, turn up one-quarter of an inch at the bottom and pin to the bottom of the crown.

hen a wire frame is covered with thin material and the frame shows through, the hat should have a thin lining