Italy, the Magic Land

shame, of genius and intolerable mediocrity, of turbulent liberty and mortal servitude; but the name of Dante has remained,

profound that it could conceal this star of promise from Italian eyes; neither the profanations of tyrants and Jesuits,

zz

at atmosphere of aspiration and of noble purpose which characterizes the nation rather than in the material facts of its general progress at the present time. As a country Italy is young. It is still less than forty years since her unity was declared, and to merge the large number of separate States into one harmonious whole is a task requiring the evolutionary progress of time; for a nation, like a university, cannot be a matter of instantaneous creation. It must germinate and grow. The country that, previous to so comparatively a recent date as

ller sees this fair land with a breadth and thoroughness seldom called into requisition elsewhere. In England he is usually content with London, the tour of the cathedral towns and the lake region of the poets. France is summed up to him in Paris and in the chateaux of outlying districts. But Italy beguiles the traveller into every lonely foot-trail in the mountains; to every "piazza grande" of lonely hamlets, isolated on a rocky hillside; to every "fortezza" that crowns a mountain summit. The unexplored byways of Italy are magnetic in their fascination, and one special s

w it is the very simplest of 'stunts.' Our way down was diversified by the tinkling of thousands of sheep-bells, by the far too close proximity of bulls to Maria's crimson headdress, which nothing in the world would induce her to remove, and by sundry meetings with relations, long-unseen friends, and strangers, from whom we culled the whole register of deaths, births, marriages, and happening

he reckoning, skilf

nd half a franc for the room,-th

anc!-were we brigands that

liar to Italian life. There are parts of Italy where it is still the Middle Ages and no hint of the twentieth century has yet penetrated. The modern spirit has almost taken possession of Rome; it is largely in evidence in Florence and even Venice, and it

in of the acqua sacra by the church. Pilgrims come from miles around to drink of these waters. Each house in this remote little hamlet is of solid stone, resembling a fortress on a small scale, and the houses cling to the hillsides like mosses to a rock. Though far up in the mountains, the

REEK THEATRE,

Genoa, and Venice, as seen from off the shore, exceeds all power of painter or poet to reproduce. The precipitous coast of Sicily; the picturesque city of Palermo; the wonderful ruins of the Greek theatre on the heights in Taormina,-all enchant the tourist. To anchor off Naples, in the beautiful bay, serves the purpose of an hotel out at sea. It is like living in Venice-only more so! By the little rowboats one may go, at any mom

ECCHIO,

ial development in any direction in Italy will always be found to be the characteristic of the city or locality, not of the country as a whole; and thus the unity of Italy is still a political expression rather than a political fact. It is a theory which is not yet developed into an experience. Italy is in the making. Practically, she is the youngest of countries, with less than forty years of experimental attempt at national life behind her. Not until 1919 will she have attained the first half century of her united life. Educational facilities, inclusive of schools, libraries, and museums; railroads, telegraph and telephone service, electric lighting and electric trams,-all the ways and means of the modern mechanism of life are, inevitably, in a nebulous state in Italy. The political situation is extremely interesting at the present time. That the "Blacks" and the "Whites" are diametrically opposed to each other is in the nature of history rather than that of contemporary record or of prophecy; and that this is a traditional attitude in this city of the C?sars is not a fact by any means unknown; but the situation is complicated by the third party-the Socialists-who, by allying themselves with either, would easily turn the scales and command the situation. If they were ardent Catholics and were advocates of the Papal supremacy, the temporal power of the Pope would be restored in less time almost than could be recorded, and Pius X would be in residence in the

d state as in England; the Vatican to remain, like the See of Canterbury, the acknowledged head of the spiritual power, while the Quirinale remained the head of the government to which the church should give its political adherence, the Quirinale in return giving to the Vatican its religious adherence. Perhaps it is not too much to say that something not unlike this might easily become-if it is not already-the dream of Pius X. But in the mean time there is another factor with which to reckon, and that is the present Papal Secretary of State, Cardinal Merry del Val. He it is who really holds the mystic key of St. Peter's. He is a diplomatist, an ecclesiastic, an embodiment of all that is severe and archaic in authority. The Pope is by no means able to set his course by his own watch-lig

nt of these, and also, not content with this unheard-of extortion, the tax is levied on the nature and source of his salary, and even the smallest wage is thus subject to an income tax. Again, there is a most absurd tax on salt, which, like sugar and tobacco, is held as a government monopoly. No poor person living on the seacoast in Italy is allowed to take even a pail of water from the sea to his house, as the government assumes that, by evaporation, it might yield a few grains of salt. The tax on sugar effectually checks an industry that might be made most profitable, that of putting up fruit in jams, jellies, and compote, and renders the price of these commodities absurdly high. Again, when taxes are paid the process is even worse than the unjust and exorbitant tax itself. No one is allowed to send a check or postal order; no tax gatherer calls at the home or the office. Each person must go himself or send a personal representative to a given place between certain hours. Here stand

three plants are permitted. Again, all industries are crippled, if not paralyzed, by the tax at the frontier, and also by the tax at every gate of every city. At every porta in Rome are stat

touch the floor, and the facilities for light and air are as badly managed as is possible to conceive. As is well known, these are divided into first, second, and third class, these compartments all being in the same train, and between the first and second there is little difference save that of price. Curiously, the price of even second-class travelling in Italy is over half a cent a mile higher than that of the splendid trains in America, with their swift time, their smooth roadbeds, their admirable conveniences in every way. Again, no l

that a Senator must be one who pays annually not less than three thousand lire in taxes. The Senators receive no salary, and their times of meeting are uncertain and no man's presence is obligatory. The House of Deputies has five hundred and eight members, all of whom must be Italian subjects over thirty years of age. They have no salary, but are given the entire freedom of the realm in all transit on railroads and steamers. The Chamber of Deputies is largely made up of professional men, and it is little wonder that the Socialists are demanding an entire reform in the government of the country. There was never in any country

d to the chair of penal law in the University of Bologna. The Senator is a scientific Socialist,-a man of the most exceptional gifts and qualities, and the autho

Ferri delivered a lecture, entitled "New Horizons in Pena

ime being regarded merely as a juridical fact, it must be studied with the aid of biology, of psychology, and of criminal statistics as a natural and social fact, transforming the old criminal law into a criminal sociology. Secondly, while the classical schools, since Beccaria and Howard, have fulfilled the historic mission of decreasing the punishments as a reaction from

athies with humanity as wise and judicious as they are liberal and all-embracing. Scientific Socialism tolerates no lawlessness, no violence, nor does it, like the so-called Christian Socialism, attempt to graft impos

e understands these interests to be. If they might be better served by a more democratic form of government, it is hardly to be asked or expected that such a view should present itself to an hereditary monarch. Among the most liberal element there are not wanting men who believe that for the immediate future the present form of government is the most feasible. In their conviction Italy is by no means prepared to be a republic.

isdom and authority from God himself, were assembled to decree the immobility of the earth. A prisoner stood befo

as Ga

he monkish menace crushed him. He strove to submit. He raised his hand, he too, to declare the immobility of the earth. But as he raised his hand, he raised his weary eyes to that heaven they had searched throughout long nights to read the

sed by force,-all these have disappeared. Naught remains but the well-establish

un of God, and read upon the heavens: It mo

faith in things to come, and to labor unceasingly to hasten their coming, even though without hope of living to witness their triumph;" and his final word in this great invocation to the new potencies of the opening future is an exhortation to believe in all greatness and goodness. "Faith," he said, "which is inte

sit, the arrangement and conduct of shops and all industrial matters, are in such contrast to any other city in Italy as to lead the sojourner to ask himself whether he can still be on the southern side of the Alpine range. In the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele Milan has the most wonderful structure in all Europe. This arcade was built in 1865, and under

that it is now difficult to discern all the figures. Nor does he fail to climb the wonderful cathedral that lifts its airy grace, as if about to float upward in the skies. Every flight of the steps, in the ascent, brings one to a new vision of beaut

e of the most rare and valuable manuscripts in the entire world,-some of Virgil's with annotations from Petrarcha;

lake of Como, green-walled in hills whose luxuriant foliage and bloom form a framework for the white villas that cluster on their terraced slo

so still further increased the commercial importance of Milan, the portal and metropolis of Northern Italy. Milan has become the national centre of all scientific and technical pursuits, and i

k of Giovanni di Bologna, and the gallery where many of Guido's best works are placed, has its individual interest

es in the distance, gleaming like a sea of silver. The Campo Santo dates from the thirteenth century, when the earth of which it is composed was brought (in 1228) from the holy places in Jerusalem, conveyed to the city (then a seaport) by fifty galleys sent out by the Republic of Pisa. The interior walls of the Campo Santo are covered with fresco paintings by Orcagna which are one of the art

accessible to carriages, but the admirable street electric railway penetrates every locality. It passes in dark tunnels under the hills, reappears on the high terraces, and climbs every height. From the crest of one of these Corsica can often be seen. All the hill-slopes are a dream of pictorial grandeur, with

ts. In one of the grand ducal palaces in the Via Balbi the visitor may see, not only the life-size statues and the busts of the family ances

al has the special allurement of the emerald dish which King Solomon received as a gift from the Queen of Sheba. The little "street of the jewellers" is an alluring place,-so narrow that one can alm

SANTO,

re of Christ with the cross, and angels hovering near-are full of beauty. Others are a marvel of ingenious and incongruous combination. One of the latter represents the man whose memory it commemorates as lying on his bed in his last illness; the physician stands by, his fingers on the patient's pulse; on the opposite side a maid is approaching with a dish holding some article of food, and near the physician are grouped the wife, with a little child clingin

res of this Campo Santo, and turning away from this cemetery in which lies the bo

ew task. And if at times he speaks of weariness of life, it is only because he sees evil more and more triumphant in the places where his mission was appointed. He concerned

nd his name lives in the Italy of to-day as one to be

s revolving light, that can be seen for fifty miles out from the coast; the brilliant illumination defining the fortezza on the summit of one hill; the curving lights of the terra

ature of Italy "is a less exhaustive manifestation than elsewhere of the intellect of the nation," and that "the best energies of the country are employed in artistic production. It is, indeed, remarkable," he continues, "that ou

to say nothing of several other writers who, while not approaching these authors, have still a definite place in the literature of the present, offer illumination on the outer scenery of life

ariot of the U

ges him nor n

he echo of unr

of irrevoc

a heritage of joy to every visitor who comes under the indescribable spell of its attraction and finds that, in

TNO

h Longfellow: Houg

rooks," by kind permission o

of Elizabeth Barrett Browning are given in full in a volume entitled

beth Barrett Browning

N

es Arcades,

a, oldest art school

s of, 46

Sacr

Rome, 10; earl

of, 5

ted

's estima

mas Bailey,

abeth Akers

7; destruction

library, M

Academy,

ome, location of, 1

ions a

rick Christian

ork of, 22, 23, 31

ith Vittoria

's poem on

f, 31

4, 316, 31

ttoria Col

ncesco d'Ollanda

estimate of,

Cathedral,

birthplace of,

ery of

num,

," meeting

sto,

r taste, 115; inspired b

sance

importanc

red,

to ugli

ess of

ce on l

ith reli

ge to, 341, 344;

interest i

ttle's descri

shrin

ishop of,

cis of, 123, 124

lace o

ss of

of, 34

life o

regard

352, 3

e aim

f, 353

r of,

ter of

n early li

inistry

isciple

ortiuncu

ith Clara, 3

regard

h of

les o

of,

hard, in R

a,

. Dr., in Ro

omas, wo

, quot

i, Cardi

Caracal

Dioclet

hn, grav

Cardina

tines,

grave of, 221; e

Siena, 382, 38

orenzo, wo

Mrs. Ann

eca Sar

s," 14

gna,

cess Christina,

datore, opin

iovanni

rs. Arthur

in Rome, 15; quoted,

W. C., q

., in Rome, 11; quote

of, 80

Mrs. Bronso

ce, 406, 410,

quoted, 3, 407, 40

nice,

h of

iss Sariann

no,

n Rome, 22; qu

na, 73

e, fall

Vera

of Pisa, 4

o, buildin

iani,

Rome, 7; hi

piece

sm of

a Sist

Misen

f, 262, 263, 26

rdinal, leg

, convent

ucci

or Jesse Benedi

Jesse Benedic

onarrot

Borghes

schia, 292

lammar

Gandolf

glion

s "La Ma

Caius, to

Grace Elle

Holy Sacra

, in Rome, 21

illa, rema

e, 376

omas, in

rles Caryl,

of Cardi

, Fabri

y, 285, 288,

lace and g

a, home of, 282;

ts of

ldhood of

ope of

ny of

hal of

e of, 2

ied life o

8, 300, 303, 30

Leo's co

and's de

al of

of,

to Rome

re of, 308, 309, 3

of, 30

with Michael

me and Orv

and sonnet from M

nt from Michae

ael Angelo and Francesco

er's comme

h of

rayer

l of,

of,

of,

f, 335

Preston's

, quote

i, Cardi

i chap

arion, in R

s, in Rome, 49;

on,

on. Way

?,

Sibyl

ci, Vespa

, Edoar

chard He

7-270; Mazzini's

Donna Cons

rancesco, 2

nsul General,

e of a

Francesco

dinal Merry,

o, March

chronicle

Mme., in R

Percival,

lla, Duches

ti, Pica,

Pietro Bernar

98, 299, 300, 301, 302, 306,

92, 296, 299, 300, 301,

alace of

Ludovic

mo Gatto

lonia, fami

Gordon, q

, quot

rolus, in Ro

een, 140,

orge, quo

y Moody, let

Waldo, in Rome,

s Elise, in

sito

, in Rome, 10;

Edgar, qu

ca and Duch

Enrico, 436, 4

, quot

ate, in

culture of

brosia

iscan

i, visi

in Rome,

ittorio Em

i, villa

. Richard,

0; featur

olis of scu

hes o

tment

o, Bish

Rome, 10, 36; q

e of

376, 3

, Paol

ne, in

ome, 11, 20;

gust, grav

entenary of, 413;

service in Ro

tio, in Rome, 1

th,

, Mrs. Ho

d, in Rome, 10, 5

Sarah B., t

e Matrim

Ferra

mendatore

Carl, wor

us William,

aniel, quoted,

r., in R

242; excava

pinazzola o

ction

re in

an, in Rome, 12; quote

k, in Ro

n Rome, 10, 59, 60

muel Gridley

a Ward, in

iam Dean, in

am and Mary,

Vict

omantic impres

ttoria Col

los castl

hanted is

return to

ce and song, 6; Mazz

ife of

hful coun

th United S

ler in

idyllic d

ach t

of, 4

makin

ics o

ic uprisi

n in, 4

ds in,

nt of, 4

of, 4

s of

ry literat

ry, in Rom

, in Rome, 67

t Underwood, q

birthplac

e, 11, 132; m

e of

elaide, in

anny, in

of lif

Omar, quo

Avernu

lectures by, 138, 139

ower of P

of Rome,

rs., in R

bé, in Ro

x, quoted, 347, 3

Oliver, q

12; quoted, 16, 17, 125, 253, 274, 2

Rev. Samuel,

es Russell,

collect

80; ascent of the

Mother, 140, 141

ed,

with art

iem mas

o, 28

ed, 64, 422, 423, 444,

ate o

of,

., in Rome, 10

Museum of

, Owen,

ecilia, to

of, 430, 447; st

n librar

tific ce

lark, in

in Rome,

urial plac

Aquino

Cair

Cassin

Catria

ario, 2

Pincio

San Ma

enico, work

er, in Rome, 13; quote

W. H., memorial

ed, 227-231; Un

um,

ttraction

s of,

of,

signore, i

tomb,

island

rles Eliot,

Piazza del

art sch

rs., quoted

eto,

or Dall', opi

. and Mrs. Nutco

m, 26

e Cont

liam, in

e Hill,

Barberin

o Bern

Bonapa

randolin-

esarini,

el Drago,

i Capodim

di Donna

Margheri

Munici

rinale, 142

Rezzon

o Senn

Tamagn

Vatica

77; ceremon

upremac

as William, q

ter, quote

town of

gino

a, 258,

an Plai

Barberi

Popolo, 7

Spagna, 70

di Trin

an Giova

Cortona, w

ectural monu

si, quo

Younger,

quote

, 243,

Adria

nt XII, to

us II, 23

eo XII

XIII, tom

hal, drea

aul II

o Nono,

5, 147; "passag

reception

nce of

ter of

m of

cula, 3

lipo

ome, 10; America's

k,

ello

aret J., quot

a d'Antuni

ntane, Via

, 22, 46, 47, 79

pieces

mmons, opin

ation

of art a

Cathedral

battle

s Buchanan,

, kinds

Madre,

o del Quirin

n. White

William, i

nited with

nce in I

d, Celi

di Pap

, in Rome, 10; e

nvironm

, 1; as artistic

tifical r

ow's lov

impressio

l Angelo and R

rt schoo

ay artis

ings

ife in,

idge o

ay,

ter, 1

ing, 1

s in,

Professor L

in, 140,

urts o

eatures

ng views

mbolism i

ay, breakfast-ta

Embassy

service

consulate

hostesses i

rd modern tho

l Society o

apartment

eeing i

alaces

drive o

elebration

lic o

to artists

remonies

spectacl

eek in

service in

from, 2

g towns

Academy

ies of

t cemeter

ture o

spirit

Salvat

ns, Baro

a,

Rome, 12; q

aul, quoted

Gardens

co, quo

ino, chur

ina di Vi

sco, churc

ovanni

arco,

a della

a dei Fr

lvestr

Jacob, wo

a, conven

ara), 365; takes

conve

history

h St. Francis

of Fran

ality

ion of bo

aggiore, church

egli Angeli,

a del Popo

a della Sa

ica, tomb

di Spa

55; Luther's a

unt Favor

Walter, i

, fall

Duke of,

seph, grav

Rome, 22; me

ed,

e of

in Rome, 10, 15,

of,

life

onferred

age o

success

os of

sm of

creation

e of

nklin, in Rome, 1

ate o

e of

, Turil

hapel, ar

to, 25

amilton, in Rome,

rofessor, quo

sio, chur

ndrew

ork of, 270, 27

l of,

n, chapel

, Augustus,

ry, feast

ella Portiu

Venice, 39

of, 397; legend

a d'Orvi

Emma, in

alker, in Rome, 10

les Walker, in Rom

, Mr., q

in Rome, 91;

in Rome, 91;

s of

e, in Rome, 10; first

orenc

0, 80, 89

Barberini

of,

te of,

y work

e of

et Beecher,

va di Posi

gton, grave of, 220

61, 264,

252, 25

ce of pictures

ay, in

tus, qu

l Society o

Edith, q

Launt, i

in Rome, 7, 1

sm of

r palace of, 26

in, in Rome, 10

tomb o

ca and Duche

y, grave

Monti, chur

ulum

o, Kin

ians

no,

yn, in

Monsig

galleries

palace,

nita, in

in Rome, 10;

iation

of,

house

. Elihu, in

mpses of, 389; Gr

une,

loveline

f, 39

n of,

Doge o

architectu

Palace,

in,

Campanil

Palace in

o Goldoni celebra

ibition

ening i

et's dr

orace, in

na,

e, Paol

vius

onell

el III, 118,

dobrandi

arberin

rghese,

Dori

alconie

Jovi

edici,

azional

philia Do

Torlon

ed, 241; gro

ti, 32

o Emanu

r. Charles,

umphry, quot

am, quoted, 9

n, Wal

jamin, in

d Mrs. Henry,

tes,

Walt, quo

nne, in Ro

r, quot

ev. Basil, quo

ance Fenimore,

, Feder

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the scenic marvels and r

, & CO., Publ

RIBER'

ng and punctuation have been

aragraph they refer to. The List of I

Colonna, Galleria B

centre of the nin

of the casa in the Vi

Sentoriale and the Pa

ella Incendio and the

the Pont San Angel

c Nazionale-is th

s stay in Rome ar

delle Quatre Font

the auspices of the

omo, who is gorgeo

i, and there is als

he Via dell Qua

ng purposes. The p

the Vedder villa,

rican wife of Cav

, and Annibale Ca

ludes the "Ludovis

ay rest, mens

rand Roman palazz

succeding Lancian

(Ginodone Triera

ies of fresco paint

"Monumento Naziona

Inferno." The Colo

n from Castel Gond

Castel Gondolfo,

country they left

, il Givoio, and i

narrar tre quan

nti aspri martir,

that had formerly

n; and not to add li

a Falconicri, in F

o Cellini at the C

treet scenes of Na

n statue of Bulbi,

hedral at Revello

azzo Rufelo might en

arappi and Marco

erre di Lav

sti de me, Thoma; quam

ri built over it, i

Palazzo Rospig

elected by the tri

ork by Battesta F

ters the Porta d

Maucis, and Anton

sco, in the region

n other leading

ope. That of the

nziati Cathedr

: Campra

ll, Cardinal Mer

Professor Dall,

tre Fontane,

vello, Cathe

Villa Falc

should be "La Scala d'Oro" o