A Voyage Round the World, Vol. I

m, goats, me

g the Yampai only, who are not confined to a single share, for a Yampai may have his title multiplied as often as he chooses to purchase add

at the first sound of which every woman is obliged to retreat within her own dwelling, upon pain of losing her head for disobedience: nor until the drum goes round the second time, to shew that council is ended, and the Egbo returned, are they released from their seclusion. If the complaint be just, the Egbo is sent to the offending party to warn him of his delinquency, and to demand reparation, a

is forehead, a large whip in his right hand, with a bell fastened to the lower part of his back, and several smaller ones round his ankles. Thus equiped he starts from the Egbo-house, ru

with the bells, "What? you tink Egbo be man, no, he be d

e, an offering to the Evil Spirit; this is done in the following manner. A stake is driven into the ground close to the water's edge, to this the poor wretch is fastened, the head be

all the ships in the river, they now take place in the night; for my own part I think that the noise occasioned by their savage merriment, and their running about during the stillness of night, produces a more appalli

f cruel practices for maiming and destroying their slaves; thus they cut off parts or the whole of their ears, a part of the nose, a

re whim; a practice which they endeavour to excuse, by saying, that if the slaves were not thus kept in awe of their masters, they would rise in rebellion: they also plead the necessity of it, for prev

hin a stated time; in the meanwhile he employs other persons to collect in his own town and neighbourhood, and if he is very hard pressed, (for the Captains of slavers are always very impatient), he obliges his great men to furnish him with a certain number each. This is done by sending him every individual from the neighbouring villages, who have committed any cri

person who has property to barter. Their mode of proceeding is as follows:-Those who desire to traffic, come on board and select whatever they want, making their agreement with the captain as to what they are to bring in return. If the captain knows them to be honest

sary condiment; the article next in estimation is rum; after which, they eagerly desire all descriptions of manufactured articles; such as cotton cloths, especially those print

TE

O.

he Bearer have fifteen and the 13

Epbr

O.

Eyo Trust for 800 Crews of Oil be

Ephr

O.

hat I send you 1 Goat and I send my Dear John to send me that Rum you promised me yese

our Bes

nesty at Old

O.

I have to thank you to send me 8

friend Eyo Ey

O.

send me that Rum I been beg you and tha

Tom Na

O.

to you for please spear me some nails

m D

O.

give me 50 Iranba for 110 Crew Salt then now I want 70 Crew Salt in them Bring me Book for 40 C

ega

ind of instruction, more particularly a knowledge of writing, which, at present, the head men teach each other in an imperfect manner, of which the above notes form an example. There is not one of them who ever re

he African) arrived this evening from Fernando Po, with Capt. Owen on boa

otwithstanding their great professions of friendship for the English in general, and their real regard for some particular individuals, who are regular traders to the country, the consideration of the profits they derive from the slave-trade, prompts them to feel no little annoyance at our interferen

an's country? What for can't white man stop in own count

panied King Eyo, this evening, in his large canoe, up the river, to

tion of a throne, where the King sat to hear and give judgment in cases of dispute, and other causes that required his interference. He had a number of articles of English furniture, for instance, drawers, sofas, chairs, &c. The principal articles in glass, were a chandelier, suspended in the centre of the room, several mirrors, glass shades, for lamps or can

that I have had to entertain me!"-The captain replying, that he regretted he had not come sooner, as he should have liked to see them. The Duke answered

e, for they were screaming, hallooing, and blowing cows-horns, or conchs, which produced so horrid a din, that there was no possibility of sleeping, and we expected no less than that a party

ing Eyo a visit; he remained a couple of h

ar; we had been very hospitably entertained by his Majesty, who gave us what is called Calabar

in: of course it was cooked in their best style. I remember, at one time, having as much prejudice as any of my countrymen against oil; but when I went to France, I partook of it insensibly, until I began to like it; and, when in Italy,

s which flank the channel. The water in the river is also so bad as to be unfit for use, in consequence of the quantity of decayed animal and vegetable matter that must constantly be mixed with it, in a clim

r, and remained with Captain Smith to selec

TER

barked-Departure from Calabar-Chased by mistake-Dangerous Situation-Mortality at Fernando Po-Detection of a Deserter-Frequency of Tornados-Horatio hove down-Capture of a Slave

re also departed for the same destination; the latter vessel, being on a trading voyage along the c

r; they were chained in pairs, the right leg of one to the left leg of another. Before the Victoria arrived, they were brought

came on board to-day

secreted until we sailed, as he wished to make his escape; for, he said, his master wanted to cut his head off, or to make him chop nut, i.e. to oblige him to eat

nch slaver, that had been taken while at anchor here, by a F

noe, with a couple of the Eden's Kroomen, came up the river this evening with a letter from th

r several hot days. Egbo again in action to-day, having been sent from Old Cala

argoes of vessels in the river, when he gives them an excellent dinner, with plenty of palm-wine. The dinner consists, generally, of goats, wild pigs, monkeys, fish, plain yams, foofoo, &c. The latter dish is a preparation of boiled yams, which are pounded in a mortar until they obtain a tenacity that will admit of being

d about in the suite of the Duke. At the time of our visit, the Duke was forbidden to eat beef or fowls, consequently he never allowed them to be put on his table. He was occasionally permitted to eat fish, because, I presume, he was supposed to have a fancy for it. At these times, the Duke's attendants

ough that they all do so according to the Mahommedan mode, excepting when they make devils, that

emony, breaking a slight fastening, and found his friend under the hands of one of his wives, who was performing for him the office of a barber; a dis

e here is not so ceremonious as at the Bonny, being merely done by the Duke's visit a few days after the arrival of a vessel, when refres

which was to announce the death of a rich old lady; as they were not minute-guns

in this instance our host was the gainer, as well as the honoured party, for his guests came amply provided with the luxuries of life, and he was only required to furnish a few necessaries, which are also presented to him by his subjects, or his particular slaves. The ex

sels. Early in the evening we experienced a slight touch of a tornado, which in a

nto compartments, with bamboo and other spars, leaving only a small space in the fore and after parts to work the vessel. There was also a platform made in the hold for a furthe

have generally a small one, for a tender, to collect palm-oil, ebony, and ivory,[38] at different places on the coast, as the ships generally remain in one river until their cargoes are complete. There was a dreadful accident happened to one of these tenders. She was b

slaver escaping under cover of the night, and when the vessel was ranging up alongside, with the intention of pouring in a heavy fire and boarding us in the smoke, our assailants, to their great mortification, heard the bellowing of our oxen, and we d

d producing the greatest disorder. All this time I was in a small moveable bed-place on deck, expecting every instant that the sea would overwhelm us, and wash me and my bed-place overboard, for I was in no danger of being washed out of my bed, as it required no little management to emerge from it at pleasure. This berth of mine was commonly called a doghouse (a box about six feet long, four high, and two broad,) containing a mattress fitted about 18 inches from the deck, above which there was a sliding door and

day turned out fine with a moderate breeze, which died away towards noon, when being in sight of the vessels at anchor in Maidstone Bay, Captain Smith and

house-carpenters, died only the preceding evening, and it is much to be feared that the panic which took place on the first symptom of illness, (from a deficiency of that moral courage which every Christian ought to possess) proved more fatal than the disease itself. This morning we had a most convincing illustration of t

sp of his adversary. The sentinel, however, returned to the charge, and following him up closely, felled him to the earth with a blow from the butt-end of his musket. Still, however, the thief struggled violently, and prostrate as he was, endeavoured to bring down his opponent by seizing his legs: the soldier was now compelled, in self-defence, to transfix his prisoner to the ground, by running his bayonet through his left arm, until the serjeant came up,

arts of the island, our people having bought up the whole stock of the natives in the neighbourhood of the

d Calabar this afternoon. A heavy tornado this evening, but as

sland. A seaman belonging to the Eden was drowned through carelessness, in upsetting a small boat on leaving the Horatio. The Victoria sailed thi

s were dying around me, I still maintained my cheerful spirits, to which circumstance I attribute the restoration of my health, which was now daily improving. I m

o England: she sailed on Saturday, on which day the Horatio filled, and sunk in Clarence Cove while in the act of heaving down. This event occasioned much trouble, and it r

les as they could obtain. I regretted that a temporary indisposition prevented me from going

the Elizabeth schooner under French colours, with upwards of 100 slaves on board. He had taken possession of her from t

Thomas's, under Spanish colours, where she engaged a part of her crew; the rest, with her Spanish captain, having previously joined her at Porto Rico. The Spaniard, who acted as captain in the outward bound voyage, r

olmaster of the Eden, and who, after the death of Mr. Abbott, was appointed acting store-keeper to the settlement. For want of lodging on shore, he used to come on board every night to sleep. Upon this occasion, he had laid down in the hammock netting on the gangway, a favourite place with the young gentlemen, as most of the ship's company, as well as the

pinnace sunk during the night in a squall, in consequence of her iron ballast not having been taken out at s

Badgeley arrived in a Brazilian schooner, Ou Voador (The

further success. Landed this afternoon, at the settlement, from the Voador, sixty male slaves, with forty-t

of these children under their protection, although they had been previously told that they would not receive any additional allowance for their support. One woman remarked, that as she had left her child at Sierra Leone, she wanted another in its place, to carry at her back; and before they obtained the Governor's permission for the indulgence of their wishes, they took the beads

arrived this afternoon, with stores for this and Ascension island; and in the

r and Elizabeth, sailed for adjudication at Sierra L

the Victoria sailed to bloc

st of the two horses brought from Sierra Leone, died to-day from a disease in the mysenteric glands. The Munroe, an American whaling brig, arrived this evening. Two men, who were taken ill with fever, were o

whom Captain Owen had appointed to attend me, was unfortunatel

hole day, and sometimes at night; but I preferred sleeping on the deck of the Eden, where, on the top of the Captain's skylight, I weathered out many a tornado. In this situation, I was tolerably protected by the sloped awning from the viol

at some part of every twenty-four hours since I last noticed the weather. Another of t

ave been sown there by the order of Captain

ere planted in

York C

ror

can C

ard

r S

Leone

ma

ed, from St

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of Bar

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ago L

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a Tu

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an

oa-

nroe, whaler, sailed to-day, on

with a cargo of bullocks, seventy-six in number; also a smal

o ugly, or so large of its kind before. They endeavoured to describe it to me, as I was too late to examine it myself; many of our black labourers having carried away pieces of it immediately after it was brought to land. The head was formed like the concave of a crescent, with an e

e in our settlement this afternoon, and placed herself under the care o

gh fever to-day; and Thomas Welling, another of our Plymouth artificers, died this morning. We also f

ame very low and quick (the rattles), and for a full hour no hope was entertained; but, at the end of that time, the alarming symptoms sub

sailed this afternoon to procu

d already commenced, and the corpse was so offensive, that he had much difficulty in completing his object. This was a case of remarkable despondency. He entertained an opinion, from the moment he

turned from Old

ed to blow very hard from the eastward till noon, when the wind died away to a light bre

tornado in the mi

atives, paying a small duty for this privilege to the Colonial Government. Hitherto an officer had been appointed to ma

.

allon of Pa

Gallon o

Yams

l 0

or Go

or La

rable sum, when collected, and it had the bad effect of rendering the people dissatisfied: God knows, there were sufficient privations for those

TER

to the Governor-Drunken Frolic of a Marine-Provisions -Delicious Coffee-Account of the Town-Population-Varieties of Colour in the Inhabitants-West-bay-Inhospitality of the Governor and Merchants-Visit to a Brazilian Brigantine-Difficulty of obtaining a Passage to Angola-Departure of the Emprendadora-The Eden leaves Prince's Island-Crossing the Equinoctial Line-Dolphin and Flying-fish-Trade-winds-Ascension Island at Daybreak-Landing- Description of the Settlemen

ot plentifully supplied with fish, is owing solely to their own negligence, as there are abundance to be had by those who take the trouble of toiling for them; but for many days together, not a canoe was to be seen. It is difficult to ascertain the cause of this strange indifference; it may be that they are afraid to venture out to sea, and this is not unlikely, as they appeared, on our first arrival, to entertain much apprehension at the sight of a strange vessel on their coast; but, as they became accustomed to our presence, and began to entertain a feeling of confidence and protection in our friendship, this diffidence gradually wore off. It cannot be doubted, that their island has often been visited by vessels engaged in the slave-trade, as well as by men-of-war. A circumstance occurred a few years ago, which proves that they are not without hostile visitors; and which, in some measure, justifies the suspicio

st standing, having lost her mainmast in a tornado. Mr. Craig has just opened his general store,

e mechanics and labourers of the settlement, and who had resided on shore for the purpose of giving them his con

t; sometimes cloudy and close; with alternate rain and cold. We fired a r

, after an absence of four weeks, being at some distance up the mountain, they were fiercely attacked by the natives with spears, and stones thrown from slings. In this rencontre, one of them was killed, and another taken prisoner; while he, and his remaining companion, effected their escape, by taking different directions:

o Captain Owen and a select party, at his new residence on shore to-day, to which I had the pleasure of being invited; but, alas! lik

ved in his long-boat this afternoon, for the purpose of obtaining men from Captain Owen, to navi

become extensively known already, and it is expected that the large palm-oil vessels will find it more to their advantage to anchor in Maidstone Bay, and carry on their trade with their tenders only, than to take t

for the want of stores, determined to make a visit to Sierra Leone; by this step, hoping to re-establish the health of his men, and to procure the necessaries of which the Colony stood in need. Accordingly, making the requisite arran

n the probabilities of its future destiny, a few thoughts ar

extending the power of the parent nation, or spreading the advantages of improvement in regions hitherto sunk in the darkness of barbaric ignorance. The objects p

elations with the districts of tropical Africa, in which m

dopted by our Government for the suppression of the slave-trade, which has been

ans of advancing the civi

owards the completion of designs so comprehensive in their purpose, we must look for the causes in impediments which time alone can conquer, and not in any lack of zeal on the part of those who were appointed to execute the plans of the Government. If firm resolution, meritorious conduct, and indefatigable diligence could have ma

erty, which they oppose because they derive a lucrative source of income from the slave-trade, while habit has made them insensible to its ignominies and miseries. This opposition to our progress would be of no moment, if the barbarous notions of the people were not favoured by the repulsi

ned, the operations of the air in the redeemed space would expel, or reduce, the baneful influences that at present produce such extensive mortality. But this would be a labour dem

urred, during the period to which I more particularly allude, were occasioned by the insalubrity of the situation. When the crew of the Eden suffered so much from fever, it broke out on board of that vessel while she was at Sierra Leone, and several of the officers and men died before she returned to Fernando Po: the mortality

e west coast of Africa, where the decomposition of animal and vegetable matter is so rapid in its progress. But the insular situation of Fernando Po, with its many local advantages and peculiarities, may ultimately have the effect

-boat, leaving her to prosecute her voyage up the Cal

e mouth of the Camaroon river, where Lieutenant Badgeley and Mr. Wo

hor, some distance up the Camaroon river, waiting for a cargo of slaves; and a Brazilian schooner at the Island of

.S.W. Tacked and sounded occasionally, working up to

t she had been along the Gold Coast, and round the Bights of Benin and Biafra. The Captain stated that he was going to Prince's Island to procure anchors, having only one remaining, and that one, with but a single fluke to it. We afterwards learnt from the crew that he had endeavoured to enter the river Lagos, but had been fired on and forced to retire, by several Brazilian vessels lying there at the time. We conjectured that she had left the West Indies, on a pretence of going to the coast of Africa, upon a slaving voyage, without any cargo, except perhaps a small quantity of specie, in dollars and gold, but carrying an efficient crew, composed of persons from various nations, and a good stock of provisions. Vessels, thus equipped, frequently traverse these seas, and being generally very fast sailers, they contrive to keep away from ships better armed than themselves, and to board only those that they can approach, or run away from, at convenience; when convinced that they are not likely to encounter any resistance, they plunder such vessels at their pleasure: but should they arrive on the coast of Africa, without having succeeded in obtaining plunder on their voyag

and introduced us to his lady and family. On leaving the Government House, we proceeded to that of Mr. Ferraro, who was said to be the richest and only respectable merchant here, but he had gone into the country; we therefore walked about the town until our curiosity was satisfied. There were no inns in the place, only some public houses, where nothing could be got but spirits, and inferior wines. The sailors, however, considered it a very civilized place, because it affo

I should imagine it is to this circumstance that its singularly delicious flavour may be attributed. We found the place very gay, it being the festival of St. Antonio, the patron saint, which, considering it is a Portuguese town, and situated in such a demi-civilized part of the world, may be called rather a neat one. It contained about twelve hundred houses, and seven churches, most of these, however, were in a miserable state. There were not more than fifty Europeans on the island, the whole population of which does not exceed four thousand. The principal part of these were negroes, who, of course, were slaves[39], and the remainder were of different shades from black to white. This island has still the character of slave-dealing, in a small way, with some of the African nations. One of the gentlemen of the Eden, rode across the island to West-bay, about six miles distant, but the road was a mere footpath, and scarcely entitled to be considered a bridle-road. West-bay is where our men-of-war, o

ervation with stars, to be 1°. 38'. N. while, in mos

be their intention to go to the Camaroon, or some other river in that direction, where slaves are not above one-third of the price that they are to the south of the line, and where children (which they always prefer to adults) are also more easily procured. Could I have believed their assurance that they were southward bound, I should have endeavoured to have made arrangements with the captain to take me with him, being anxious to get to St. Paul de Loando, for the purpose of visiting different parts of Angola, and in which view I had prepared myself with a letter of introduction to the Viceroy of that countr

e, Signor Begaro, and some of his

Emprendadora, desiring Lieutenant Robinson to make the best of his way to the latter place; she accordingly sailed this mornin

at Fernando Po, notwithstanding we were 3°. nearer the equinoctial line, than at the former place, while the thermometer for the last twenty-four hours, has only ranged from 74°. to 78°. F. Indeed,

casion to cross the equinoctial line. Latitude, at noon, 0° 6'. S. steering W. by S. with the wind south. There have been numberless flying-fish, with a few bonetas and dolphins sporting round the ship at times, to-day; men-of-war are not very successful in taking these fish, but in a low, dull s

ng from the westward of south, to the eastward of south, until it arrived at that point (S.E.), which is the prevailing trade-wind of the Southern Atlantic, from the equinoctial line to about the 28th degree of south latitude, varying a few degrees from

ores to the gl

e gleams o

e us, and we were introduced to them individually. We first visited the mess-room, which, with some apartments attached to it for the officers' quarters, is one of three buildings that are distinct from the general establishment, called Regent Square. The second building is a store-house, containing provisions for the African squadron, as well as the persons employed on the island; and the third, a house that was built for the Governor, but which Colonel Nichols allows Lieutenant Stanwell to reside in, he being a married man, with a family of five children. One part of Regent Square is composed of the barracks for the marines, and the other for th

own private stock of domestic poultry. Turkeys arid fowls thrive well here; but geese and ducks, very indifferently, from the want of fresh streams and pools, so necessary to their nature, in consequence of which they lay their eggs, but do not produce young. They have also a few goats, and abundance of guinea fowls,[42] in a wild state, which, in flavour, greatly surpass those that have been domesticated; and some of the domestic poultry of the gallinaceous tribe, that have returned to their aboriginal state. These three species of Ascension game, with the hunting of wild cats, occasionally afford no little amusement to the officers of the establishment. A number of cats were originally introduced; in their tame state, to destroy the rats, which, at one period, overran the island; but, after routing the rats, the cats, like the Saxons of old, finding themselves masters of the soil, became

ving, it is said, ten per cent. profit on their exportation, and two per cent. to the corporal who took charge of its disposal. It had no freightage to pay, as the owners were allowed the privilege of sending it out in a transport, w

, they turn as many as are likely to be required for the use of the establishment, until the following season, and also for the shipping that may call for them; these are kept in the pond, to be taken out at pleasure: two pounds of turtle is allowed as a substitute for one pound

to avoid putting the officers to an

uld, to ordinary minds, have appeared impracticable. When about four miles from Regent Square we arrived at Dampier's Spring, a stream of water that might pass through an ordinary sized goose quill, and if allowed to spread over the surface of the ground in some climates, would evaporate as quickly as it flowed, but here, conducted into a cask, it affords no inconsiderable portion of the supply at Regent's Square. It is sent down in barrels on the backs of asses, or mules, and served out by measure, according to the quantity procured. There were a few habitations near this spring, cut out of the so

e hill, which is the highest on the island, being 800 feet abov

th light showers, and a genial climate, all combine to render vegetation here peculiarly luxuriant, so that the inhabitants are not only enabled to reserve an ample supply for themselves, but to spare a small quantity for most of the ships that call at the island. Colonel Nichols informed us that he had 1000 lbs. weight of vegetables, principally the sweet potatoe, ready to dispose of at this period. We had at dinner green peas, and French beans, besides the more common vegetables, likewise turnip-radishes with our ch

of domestic animals now on the island,

ad of

rincipally f

go

ors

mu

ass

valleys to breed; it is feared, however, that the cats will destroy the young rabbits, if they do not the old ones. Two red-l

re, but we walked nearly a mile before we mounted our horses. The officers of the Establishment invited all Captain Owen's party, and their Colonel, to dine with

eying water, &c. &c. The officers of the Establishment, superintend the working parties, however, these only work four days in the week, Wednesday and Saturday being allowed them for fishing,[49] cleaning their clothes, and other private purposes, while the Sunday is of course kept holy. Their working hours are from daylight un

o return on board the Eden. When we got under weigh, and made

AND OF

signal to any one that might have been left on the island by accident, for on the preceding year H.M.S. Endymion took on board the crew of a brig that had been wrecked on the island: and the celebrated navigator, Dampier, was also cast away here in the Roebuck, of 12 guns, on his return voyage from New Holland. Little could I have imagined at the time of my first visit, that I should ever have landed here, under my present peculiar circumstances, or that after so many years I shou

ay, for we glided along pleasantly with a fresh trade-wind, varyin

characteristically called "the variables": at one season of the year, these winds are very light and changeable, with frequent calms and occasional thunderstorms and waterspouts: at another season of the year, the weather is dark, gloomy, squally with occasional calms and much rain, until we advance to 12° or 14

or my half-pay. I was induced to do this from the novelty of the circumstance, as well as a preparatory measure in case I shoul

r indications of our approaching the coast of Africa in the rainy season; there had also been a heavy dew last night, which aggravated these gloomy appearances. At sunset, we saw a v

aptain Owen, after having been his guest for nearly twelve months; during which time I had experienced an unvarying series of unequalled attentions, a consideration for my interest and pursuit

TER

fusion thrice confounded-Fruit Girls, not fair, but coquettish-Music unmusical, or Porterage, with an Obligato Accompaniment-Landing-places- An Evening Walk-A bad Cold-Job's Comforter-Shoals of Visitors- Captain Lyon's Visit, and Invitation to the Author-Naval Friends- Packet for England-English Tailors-Departure for Gongo Soco-The Party-Thoughts on Self-Denial-Uncomfortable Quarters-Changes of Atmosphere-Freedom by Halves; or left-ha

who proved to be excellent society, and who, consequently, became my principal companion, for although the captain and his mates were good sailors, and honest men, they were

ancholy duties being performed, he took upon himself the office of Vice Consul, until a reply to his report of the Consul's death could be received from the British Government; but, in the meanwhile, he was himself taken so ill with the endemic fever, and found it so impossible to regain health at St. Jago, that it was deemed necessary to send him to the island of Mayo for change of air; where he attained convalescence, but still continued much debilitated when we met on

he sea, the communication being subsequently cut off, the water rapidly exhaled, leaving the salt in chrystals on the surface of the earth; these, in due time, were collected in heaps; but as, of course, th

f wells), near the beach, between the salt-pan plain, and the sea: they thus collect a stock of brackish water, in s

ity, were scarcely out of the horizontal line. Fortunately, a very short repose is sufficient for me, as my bed was not the softest in the world, for as I had not brought one with me, I was obliged to lie upon an old sail, with a bag of clothes for a pillow: however, I have no desire to consider comforts, when I am travelling, lest fe

Noon, lat. 0°. 14'. S. lon. 17°. 29'. W. Having crossed the equinoctial line this forenoon,

nce's Island,

ension toward

way to Sierra Leone, more than 2°. n

ony of shaving, &c. was dispensed with, but to prevent the circumstance passing entirely uncommemorated, Mr. Fearon presented us with some champagne, as

ing with each portion, a large table spoonful of butter; this is followed by tea, cold meat, and biscuit, and concluded with well buttered biscuits and cheese. At eleven, coffee again; and so soon after noon as the ship's place is ascertained by the reckoning, a glass of wine is presented to each person,[50] followed by dinner. At half-past three, tea; and at six, tea again, but combined with suppe

preserved in spirits. Mr. Fearon informed me, that he had previously remarked this variation in the

e same direction with ourselves, but she did not ap

at times; four more flying-fish for breakfast. The sea getting up

sea. Course continues the same, and but little vari

r breakfast, which proved a sufficient relish for the passengers, but they would not have

ened again to-day. Lat. 11

ood deal of sea, which made the vessel roll about and plunge i

, with a heavy swell. Lat. at no

zes and cloudy. Lat. 17°

to-day. Lat. 18°. 55'. S. Lon. 29°. 4

ather. At noon, Lat. 20°. 44'. S. Lon. 31°

. S. Lon. 33°. 22'. W. Cape Frio, S. 82°. W. 472 miles

s. Wind N.E. to E. A single flying-fish for breakfast. Lat. 2

effect of a severe cold caught by remaining on deck late at night. I had also frequently got wet during the blowing weather, by the sea breaking over the vessel: and, unfortuna

recently deserted some vessel which they had followed from the Cape of Good Hope. They are a small sea-fowl, about the size of a pigeon, fr

mity of land, although, by our reckoning, it should have been far distant; however, we saw it at sunset, bearing N.W. by N. about 15 miles, whi

25'. W. At two in the afternoon, we passed a warlike looking schooner under Brazilian colours. At sunset. Cape Frio, E.N

iro. At two in the afternoon, sounded in forty fathoms; Sugar Loaf Hill bearing N.W. At eight

of objects in the vicinity, completed a beautiful coup d'oeil, which it is difficult to imagine, and scarcely possible to be surpassed. The wind and tide being against us until two o'clock, the sea-breeze the

uld imagine, for Captains Beechy and Forster, who were companions on the North Pole expedition; no small difference in climate and scenery from their present place of meeting. Captain Peters of our galliot (the Young Nicholas) and Mr. Fearon went on shore in the evening, but I was too ill with my cold, even to venture exposing myself t

t and best street in Rio de Janeiro, and as the Custom-house is situated in the centre, with the Palace and Dock-yard flanking the extremities, this street is an immense thoroughfare,

hese sounds are added the variety of cries, uttered in an endless alternation of tones, by the pretty negress fruit venders, who, smartly dressed, and leering and smiling in their most captivating manner endeavour so to attract the attention of the sons of Adam. These, with the gabbling of foreigners,

s street, one of the many that branch from the Rua Direito), to find out Dr. Dickson, a naval surgeon settled in this city, for whom I had a letter of introduction, from my friend Captain Owen. He was not at home, but we were received by his partner, who appeared much concerned at my state of health, a

s Captain Lyon of the royal navy, who had charge of a very large mining establishment in the interior, under the title of the Imperial British Brazilian Mining Company, at Gongo Soco. On hearing my intention to travel in the Brazils, this gentleman not only invited me to visit him, but also to accompany him to his establishment, to which he was about to return in a few days. This invitation was perfectly irresi

interesting excursion to the Corcovada Mountain on the following morning, for the purpose of measuring its height; but I was most reluctantly obliged to dec

friend Sir T. Thompson of the Cadmus with him. Captain Lyon an

Mr. Edward Walker went passenger in her. I heard that our journey into the interior was fortunately deferred for a

elf in preparing for the journey. Among the few articles of which I stood in need, were a jacket and pantaloons, which I was obliged to purc

tleman is a Prussian Jew, and has amassed a considerable property in this country by dealing in precious stones, in addition to which traffic, he has a general store at Gongo Soco. He has also a brother a dealer in jewels who lives at Villa Rica. How is it that other men cannot succeed so well as those of the Jewish persuasion? Is it that their intelligence, penetration, and discrimination, are superior to other men? Or is it solely owing to their less scrupulous integrity? My own conviction has a

flamed state of my chest, so dried up the dressing, that the irritation produced was like a red hot iron applied to the surface: this torture I was compelled to endure for more than three hours, before I could obtain any relief. About four o'clock we arrived at Venda Nova, or Traja, also known by the name of Willis's, it having been kept by an Englishman of that

is on the

we were all in the saddle before daylight (half-past five)-Mr. Raynsford, on his return to Rio de Janeiro, and our own party for the Mine Country. Soon after noon, we arrived at Manganga, a distance of four leagues (16 miles), having passed over a very level country, where the heat of the day was equal in intensity, to the cold of the morning; the thermometer being, at one time, upwards of 90°. F. This change was to me delightful, as heat agrees with me at all times, and more particularly while suffering from an indisposition, the prevalent symptom of which is a sensation of chilliness. I found my strength very inadequate to bear much fatigue. Our accommodation,

nn's Mountain), which we afterwards passed over, and arrived, about three o'clock, at a respectable farm-house, in the village of Bota?s, where we remained for the night, having travelled four leagues to-day. Captain Lyon called my attention this aft

begins to exert its influence. We left Mr. A. Walker, with the loaded mules, to follow; Capt. Lyon being anxious to proceed at a quicker rate. Almost immediately after leaving the farm, we began to ascend the Alto de Serra, where, in some places, a false step of the mule would have precipitated both the animal and its rider into one of the fearful chasms that occasionally yawned beneath our path. We were frequently placed in very awkward situations, for we met with several caravans of loade

p. Indeed, this convenient word pest, was indiscriminately applied to all diseases which the people did not understand. It reminded me of La Fleur, in the Sentimental Journey, who, when he could not get his horse to pass the dead ass, cried "Pest!" as the dernier resort of his vocabulary of exclamations. In the afternoon, we made a short halt at a venda within twelve miles of Bota?s, to refresh ourselves, which was k

ect of curiosity in the whole group: this unlooked for distinction, arose from two circumstances, first, my wearing a long beard; and secondly, my blindness. These peculiarities produced numberless exclamations, as, "How could I travel? W

which, in the torid zone, is at once an article of luxury and utility. The people of the East invariably wear beards, not merely as a national custom, but as a matter of necessity; and, for my part, I can testify, that I found it an indispensable protection to the neck, and the lower part of the face: after a day's journey, the luxury of immerging

t at our simplicity, in sending to a doctor for an article so common here, that it is generally used for lamp-oil, and to obtain which, it is o

package was examined, and a duty demanded for each article of merchandize, &c. excepting our personal baggage; after this ceremony, we proceeded to a house, where they were accustomed to receive, I cannot say accommodate, travellers, for its appointments and arrangements, were neither elegant nor convenient; and the host, an old man with a young wife, was by no means civil: attentive he was, to the most minute point of etiquette, and somewhat more attentive than agreeable, for he watched us with a most pertinacious vigilance, in order that we might have no

travelled twenty-eight miles. This is also the largest town we entered,

PTE

d-Cold Shoulders-Mud Church-Feasting and Fasting; or, the Fate of Tantalus-Method in a Slow March-Gentlemen Hungry and Angry-No "Accommodation for Man or Horse"-A Practical Bull-Curtomi- Hospitable Treatment at Grandie-Horse-dealer-A "Chance" Purchase- Bivouac-Mule Kneeling-Sagaci

lso glad to promote any measure that will enable them to complete their day's journey before sunset, that they may get their supper and go to rest so soon as it is dark, which, in this tropical region, is always at an early hour. Between nine and ten we arrived at a venda, called Funelle, where we breakfasted on eggs and milk, standing at a counter, there being no other apartments in this small habitation, except the bed-room of a pretty young black-eyed widow, who was laughing and flirting with our party the whole time we remained. Having made but a third of our intended day's jo

rtions of our own people who were obliged to knock down a few wretched straggling fowls for our use, we should not

er the sun rises, the warmth rapidly increases. We made but a short journey to-day, of two leagues and a half, for the roads were rugged and precipitous, and intersected by several abrupt and broken streams, so that we were obliged to be extremely cautious in our pro

les included, insinuating themselves imperceptibly into our sleeves and pantaloons, when burying their heads in our flesh, and feasting on our blood, they made us acutely sensible of their presence, by the intolerable irritation they produced: and from which we had no means

at disturbance in their house. On inquiry, the offender proved to be a blacksmith on his way to Gongo Soco, he had been engaged by the agent for the Company, and sent off from Rio, thirty-six days previously, which time he had wasted in drunke

sual, mud floors, and our cloaks for a cov

rogress here, the walls of which they were building with mud. After refreshing ourselves, and our mules, for about an hour, we resumed our journey toward a large farm, called Baroga, having made 24 miles to-day. My companions fared sumptuously, as we had brought a turkey with us fr

they could for Captain Lyon, but for all that, they could not be roused out of their accustomed meth

ntreaties

romise and p

l go on

y the condescension of their hosts, in undertaking upon any terms to minister to their necessities: consequently there was no possibility of giving utterance to any hasty feelings of impatience; no opening

er, like a wo

their in

surance which is I presume intended to reconcile the guest to such reception as they choose to give: but if these people are unwilling to "profess," they do not allow their scrupl

few fowls, (or sometimes a turkey or a roasting pig;) then a large pot of water must be boiled to dip the fowls in, by way of removing the feathers in the most expeditious manner; a practical bull, for if they plucked the birds the moment they were dead, and before the body was allowed to cool, the process would be completed in less time than they could boil the water. After this preparation, they proceed with their tedious cookery, al

before we arrived at this place, about four miles and a half distant, the road from Rio over the Campos, and the Caminha Real, or Royal road, from Porta de Estrella meet, for

th a train of horses, on his way to Rio, when Mr. Sharpe took a fancy to one, and purchased it for thirty-six milreas, in silver, something less than five pounds sterling. From being purchased in this accidental way, I suggested that the animal ought to be named "Chance," to which his master assen

docile, intelligent animal I ever rode, and it was a knowledge of these good qualities, that induced Captain Lyon to appropriate him to my use; I was frequently considerably in advance of the party, without feeling any apprehension about my safety, from the perfect confidence I reposed in the mule's sagacit

it, the day was proportionably hot. We this forenoon passed the first gold-washing place of any consideration, which has, however, long since been abandoned for others more profitable. About eleven

the only exception, an undertaking of considerable hazard to ride either up, or down, this mountain. At about a league beyond the summit, on the opposite side, we entered what is called the Topaz District, where we soon passed many washings for Topazes, and put up for the night at the celebrated one of Capoa, where we were not very well entertained, although the proprietor of this venda was

e house that is kept for the use of the Gongo Soco Mining Company. The gold that is collected at the Gongo Soco mines, is sent from time to time to the mint at this place, where it is essayed and melted into bars, the government reserving, a tax of 25 per

es, as also from the bad and insufficient pasturage they find on their road. When these unfortunate animals sink down under their sufferings, they are left to die, and putrify on the spot where they happen to fall. These cattle are chiefly brought from the Sertao, which is a wild country beyond the mountains of the gold district, intervening between it and the diamond district, which is a fine pasture country, but with few habitations. The term Sertao, however, is general all over the interior of Bra

f not expressed, that the Company should be allowed to work their mines on the same terms with the Brazilians, however advantageous those terms might happen to be: at the time the charter was granted, the Brazilians paid 25 per cent.; but after their neglecting several mines, they petitioned the Governme

transact some business; this proved a seasonable rest, particula

hurled down a precipice, so gigantic, that the state of their remains could not even be ascertained. Our mules were, at times, on their haunches, actually sliding over the rocky surface of the road, and although Captain Lyon had travelled this path several times, he had never ventured to ride down it before: but not knowing any better way to manage me and my mule, than by allowing us to follow him mounted, down the hill, he most kindly braved the danger

passed on to Inficionado, where the Company have another estate, Ceta Pr?ta. The road from Antonio Ferreira to this place, was very hilly and circuitous, as well as very bad in particular places. We arrived about sunset, and got comparatively well lodged, b

rtment were on their way to receive their chief (Captain Lyon), at Brunado, which is about twelve miles from the establishment; and we accordingly met them. After an exchange of civilities, we all proceeded in grand cavalcade, towards Gongo, Lieutenant Tom, of the navy

t rest in his book, as well as in his route, and, bespeaking the reader's favour for the sequel of my adventures and researches in the Gold Mines, I take my leave for the prese

tno

ce of being covered with wood; the word "m

oduced to the mountain, of Tokay, in the

d in great abundance; but as they are left unnoted, they are us

natives of Palma; Thenar, in their language, signifying a mountain,

msey, o

s the present) was a sweet and rich wine, and the name could not, therefore, have been so derived. The term sac is more likely to

y Antonio de Nolle, a Genoese in the service of Portugal; and St. Jago, was the first settled. The remaining seven were also disc

re marked with the initials of the island of which it is the pro

in their growth, but all producing the colour found in orchilla, are to be met with on the hills

men, they are generally Kroo, and Fish men, who inhabit the cou

Riley, for a desperate attempt to murder a serjeant with his bayonet. The rest of the prison

the principal felo

getting 'a palaver,' as they term it, with Sierra Leone. Previous to this, they always despatched their king

the late king lo

sentence, to the person who spoke it, and that he deemed it to be almost lite

ellation of John

o perform any labour under the direction of English

Guinea, on consideration of his paying 300 milreas per annum for five years; and he was to discover 100

ugh which the line passes, being intended to fasten itself to the line on the surface of the water the mome

e is a settlement of about seventy Fishmen, who have run away from their own country, to a

he colour o

ing under the large Banian, or Indian fig-tree, tha

ad been presented to him some years befor

was not a little remarkable for that volubility which a rude jest attributes to her sex in general. She was a very successful beggar, too, amongst the rest of her accomplishments, for munition and strong drink. Just before the battle of Dodowah commenced, she passed along the ranks, encouraging her people with an appropriate harangue, and waving at the same time a gold-hilted sword in one hand, and an elephant's tail (the emblem of royalty), in the other, with a necklace, well adapted for the occasion, composed of a string of musket halls. This heroine said to s

he English blew up their fort. They have always acted basely in battle, and are notorious for gluttony, crue

corruption of the word

nies, are said to be making Fetish, and are consequently called Fetish men or Fetish women. Some have regarded the Fetish as an object of worship to the natives of Africa; it ought, however, more properly to be considered only as a charm, to which a superstitious and reverential feeling is paid; in which an implicit confidence is reposed. Whether it be intended to exercise a public or a private function, it consists of some body, either animate or inanimate, selected according to fancy, as a dog,

try; before that age, the constitution is more liable to the infection of the endemic diseases of a h

er-book of the late African Company, thr

astle, 30th J

ld not come out. These two vessels remained in St. Thomas's in October last, where they had carried 200 troops, the only remains of 3000 that had originally been sent to Fernando Po, where the Spaniards had made a settlement, and landed a great quantity of brass cannon, and all kinds of military stores; but the natives were so disgusted with the Spanish Government, that they poisoned the water, which caused a great mortality and obliged the survivors to go away. However, previous to their departure, they dismounted and buried the cannon and all the stores; and, after they were gone, the natives

ived in the bay a f

n down, and replaced by othe

solid wood of a prickly tree, or shrub, whence the thorn gr

gs with brick or stone. There is, indeed, plenty of fine clay for the former; but building stones are scarce in that neighbourhood, and we had not sufficient lime,-as we had to procure burnt lime from Sierra Leone, or shells from Accra, both of which we obtained for the building of an armour

f two towns of nearly equal size, containing about a thousand inhabitants, and built on the borders of a kind of basin, which is formed by a number of rivulets, entering it from the Niger, through forests of mangrove bushes. One of them is under the domination of a noted scoundrel called King Jacke

rst Brass River (which, we understand, is the Nun River of Europeans), and at the distance of sixty or seventy miles from hence. This town

here to bury their dea

ther to

s importation, renders it an unprofitable article in the English market. At Liv

ving at the south end of the island, quite i

d of the line; but are liable to capture, if found to the northward of the line with slaves on bo

in the valleys, besides chickweed,

feed principally on c

ull te

turtle season, that the sand rises on shore, near

weigh about 400 lbs.; and, s

all speci

wn so large as to

his number live at

n these days provided with hooks and lines, and sent off those p

t, sweet wine, made at Tours, and w

se animals being so abundantly supplied with food from the offal of a large and populous city, as to be divested of their natural ferocity:-accide

de in the country, and generally strongly flavoured with aniseed) and someti

OF V