An American Girl in Munich

eptember

Cec

have such a magical power of charming away the latter that they seem but trifling vexations. Then I should so enjoy watching your delicious blue eyes open wide at these Germans and their

r o'clock lecture. It's only in the concrete things of life that I've been forced to abandon my Bostonian, and therefore, of course, unimpeachable standards. I have learned how unwise a thing it would be for me to say to a German landlady, "Show me an apartment with running water, steam heat, electric ligh

y imagining that I should have no trouble in understanding it or in making myself intelligible. With that sublime assurance born only of ignorance, I approached an honest-faced workman, and in a charmingly idiomatic sentence inquired the shortest way to Barer-strasse. He stared at me hard for a moment, and then burst into a flood of harsh-sounding words, not one of which fell familiarly on my ear. I was puzzled for a moment, but, thinking I must have mistaken his nationality, I bowed my thanks and made my way to a policeman on the corner, who, by the bye, wears a gleam

volubility. Finally she ushered me into a stuffy room, over-crowded with furniture, which she proudly called the "salon," and pointing out as pièce de résistance a decrepit, yellow-keyed piano, announced that it was "for the use of the guests." But the change, dear Cecilia, when I, like the stage villain, disclosed my identity! The alluring smile melted in a trice; the persuas

y the same experience at each pension in turn. If there were already a music student in possession, that was the signal for me inst

who proved to be a most genial creature. An hour later we had left the hotel and were ensconced as proud possessors of two adjoining rooms. The larger we use for a sleeping-room, and the smaller is dignified by the name of "salon." It is there that I am to work, and I have already succeeded

e house. She also says that most of her pensionnaires are German, for which we are grateful. I cannot understand why so many Americans come over here expecting to

m in the city at all. Leaning out on the ledge, with the warm breath of the wind on my forehead, the twittering of birds and the soft plash of the fountain in my ears, the temptation to revel in all

t it any day in the Red Book, and can discover countless pictures of it, but, believe me, nothing can give you an idea of its sound as one stands at a little distance. If I were to score it I should use the strings

te

ely the same adjectives somewhat intensified might be applied to his wife, who sat opposite. When neither of them was talking, they were laughing in the most infectious fashion imaginable. Isn't it queer to picture the nobility of Europe as running boarding-houses? I rather fancied I might see some of its members r

his English, which was very bad. On his left sat Frau von Waldfel, a Hungarian, who monopolized the conversation in a high, rasping voice, and whose red cheeks, prominent nose, and beady black eyes bespoke aggressiveness of the most aggressive type. Then came Karl, the Baron's son, a stout, mischievous, frank-faced boy of fourteen, and

, too, every one seemed to converse so fast that the words fairly tumbled over one another. Whenever I heard a totally strange phrase I soothed my pride by saying, sotto voce, to Mütterchen, "Again that demoniacal dialec

, which she prepared in a marvellously skilful fashion from her bread and

they simply starve you! Of course in Hamburg one does find good meat pie; the only decent thing in Dresden is

, however, this is no more unworthy an object than that of an American girl whom I met ye

are writing at home to prove that we

g at least an hour. At five every one has afternoon coffee and a bit of cake. I hear there are any number of beguiling outdoor cafés where one can sit under the trees and hear good music. At seven-thirty your true son of Germany hungers yet again, and Abendessen (supper) is served. If, however, one wishes to attend any form of entertainment he must eat a cold supper early, in a bare and deserted dining-room, for the opera and concerts generally

t is, a record of all that occurs relating to my studies, and occasionally you won't mind, will you, if I copy an item or two from that into your letters? It will seem so much more as though I were talking to you if I scribble down things from day to day and then send th

embe

eard-of luxury,-I was completely out of breath. It still lacked fifteen minutes of the appointed time, so I had ample opportunity to regain my composure as I sat in the cosy reception room into which the maid had ushered me. Behind the closed doors at the further end of the apartment I could hear a pupil playing a Beethoven sonata, and a man's voice occasionally interrupting. I adjusted my hat for the twentieth time, smoothed my hair back over my ears, and e

helped himself to a third piece of black bread. Thereupon I really t

tor, Ludwig Thuille." Over the bookcase hung several giant laurel wreaths, their leaves now crisply yellowing. To these were attached brilliant, silver-lettered ribbons which, as they floated flamboyantly against the subdued gray of the wall

der. My second thought was that I had never seen so charming and cordial a smile. Of course he shook hands, as all these people do, and bade me be seated while he opened the letters. He is short in stature, with sandy hair, and a long mustache curled up at the ends in true imperial manner. His eyes, blue and kindly, looked straight and sympathetically at me. His face is deeply lined and shows tens

ed in the same class in the old Conservatory. It is indeed delightful to hear from him again. And now about yourself.

e for a pupil, Herr

ng, "although my time is almost wholly occu

for my first lesson. He does not speak a word of English, and I found him exceed

tin, as a pupil of mine did the other day." Instead of my taking leave of him there, he went out to the very door wi

s manner. Where Brienner-strasse meets Odeons-Platz I alighted. This is just by the Feldernhalle. If you have seen pictures of the Loggia at Florence you can tell how it looks, for it is a copy of the Italian building. Here I was to meet Fr?ulein L--. She is a friend of the Baroness and had offered to help me in hiring a piano. That elocution cour

through Theatiner-strasse, "did I make

ty I had spent a half-hour on the composition of t

the Feldernhalle. I was wondering," she added, mischievously, glancing as w

rman girls, and whenever they do say anything facetious they look very much frightened, as though at a loss whether to apologize at once or explain how it came to happen. I must send you one of the comic pap

n L--, stopping before a small store, "and i

ys a small sum for the privilege of taking out music from a circulating library for a definite length of time. The arrangement impressed me at once as advantageous,

t orchestral s

hould call this impudence in America, but I really do not think he intended it as such. He had simply not come much in contact with the modern American girl. After explanation on b

t is an art in itself. If one is careless and holds the handful a quarter of an inch from perpendicular, the beer comes oozing out at the top and trickles on the sidewalk. This disturbs no one in the least. As we passed the droschky stand on Max-Joseph-Platz about eleven o'clock, there stood all the cabbies lounging against their carriages or r

d for the reproduction of Wagner's operas alone, of the peculiar stage, and of that stroke of genius, the concealed orchestra. If I attempted any explanations I should fail lamentably, for all else is forgotten in the memory of that glorious music. The crowd of magnificently dressed people promenading between the acts through restaurant, garden

dly by the power of the music-music magical in its chromatic beauty, tremendous in its intensity. Breathless, at the final fall of the curtain, I hardly realize

e crowd. I turned to look at him, for his face struck me as strangely familiar. Who do you think it was

nd

hich is the home of American church life here. The name chapel is only applied out of compliment, for it is really a large room with improvised altar at one end, a piano in the corner, and rows of chairs for pews. I

, and thunder of trombone burst on the stillness, and the sound of a lively march, the sort to make one's feet tingle, came ever louder and louder to our ears. I expected to see the rectors face change and to hear him hurriedly close, but no, his voice kept on peacefully, unconcernedl

he aisle, the rector came forward with outstretched hand. The consul, to whom we had lett

ion," said his wife, a bustling little woman in black. "There will be several music students on hand and it may be pl

he martial for the romantic, and giving out the openi

, urging Mütterchen along. "There are

that in front of the Feldernhalle is a triangular open space? This now was thronged with a gayly attired crowd, who were promenading up and down or chat

who were everywhere, the bright caps of the students, the gleaming helmets of the officials set off

th the laughing throng. "Just see, Mütterchen, there's an off

sight on Sunday," replied

felt I ought to shut my ears to the fascinating

ould call these people wicked," I said,

nd caps of black and purple. (The colors indicate the corps or club to which they belong.) Do you know that the men bow fir

Frau von Waldfel. Cecilia mia, don't let me hear of your banishing "swoop" to the category of slang. I am much attached to that invaluable word. Have you ever seen a gull circling with wide-spread wings above a fish in the water benea

e been doing a little shopping, you see, on my way home from church." (She pointed to a number of small packages under her arm.) "I've ordered some cakes sent up to the pension. Did you know the tarts here

involuntary gasp

, endeavoring to show I could make conve

days at half-past seven in the evening. I'm a regular guide-book, much more practical than that red one I see you carry.

e salon. "I always try to make Sunday evening a pleasant time," she said. What was our surprise on entering

teamer, so I shall send it out now by Georg, the man-servant of the house. A