Narrative of an Expedition to the Shores of the Arctic Sea in 1846 and 1847

ture from York Factory-Progress retarded by the ice-First night at sea-Reflections-Rupert's Creek-Unbroken fields of ice-Broad River-Description of the coast-Doubl

40, which was to have proceeded to the northern shores of America by Back's Great Fish River, for the purpose of tracing the coast between the riv

in conjunction with those of Mr. Dease, had during the three preceding years effected so much; but his untimely and melancholy

y's territories, informed me that a boat expedition to the Arctic Sea was again contemplated, at the same tim

ve Churchill in two boats at the disruption of the ice, and coast along the western shore of Hudson's Bay to the northward as far as Repulse Bay; or, if thought necessary, to the Strait of the Fury and Hecla. From this latter point the shore of th

ged for a boat, which is better adapted for traversing large sheets of water. We had rather a stormy passage to Norway House, at which place five men were engage

either M'Kay or Sinclair, guides and steersmen with the expeditions under Sir G. Back and Dease and Simpson), tha

far as Oxford House, and the other all the way to York Factory, stipulated that they should do no work on Sunday; to which I readily agreed, thinking that they acted conscientiously; and this I reall

and sleet, which had thoroughly drenched us all; in addition to which the men were so bedaubed with m

med by Chief-Factor Hargrave and t

ey were fine looking and strong clinker-built craft, 22 feet long by 7 feet 6 inches broad, each capable of carrying between fifty and sixty pieces of goods of 90 lbs. per piece. They were each

our boats stranded, which would have been a very likely occurrence had we put to sea. There was, therefore, nothing to be done but to haul our boats up again; nor did this cause me much disappointment

e temporary absence of the former gentleman; so that, with keeping a meteorological journal-in which the temperature of the air, height of the barometer, force and direction of the winds, and

(commonly called conjurors) having a small basin and perforated tin stand for burning alcohol, a seine net, and four small windows, each of two double panes of glass. An oiled canvass canoe

commenced breaking up; but it was more than a month after this date before the Nelson or North River opened. At length, on the 12th

boats were divi

th

n R

l, Orkneyman

er, half-bre

hison, Orkn

eau, Canad

e Indian, dit

gn

t, Orkneyma

er, ditto,

mson, Zetla

Germain, Can

son, Highla

y, ￡40 per annum, with the promise of a

ieces; and with this cargo they were quite deep enough in the water and very much lumbere

sails, turning to windward; the wind and tide were going in opposite directions, and there was an ugly cross sea running, which caused us to ship much water over both the lee and weather side. After a couple hours of this work we gained sufficient offing to clear the shallows, which lie for some miles out from the point of Marsh, (this being the name of the N.E. extrem

must own was none of the most inviting, as it consisted of a number of hard-packed bags of flour, over which a blanket was spread, so that I had to accommodate myself in the best way I could to the inequalities of the surface. To a man who had slept soundly in all sorts of places-on the top of a round log, in the middle of a swamp, as well as on the wet shingle beach, such a bed was no hardship; but thoughts now pressed upon me which during the bustle and occupation of preparation had no time to intrude. I could

let the boats take the ground, so that this morning they were high and dry on the mu

s at no great distance, I visited it, but found that the people had taken their departure for the Factory-a certain sign that the geese and ducks

re stopped by ice at a few minutes after 1 P.M., when we made fast to a large grounded mass, which protected us from the smaller floating pieces as long as the tide was ebbing; but as soon as the flood made, it required all our exertions to prevent the boats being damaged. We now found the great advantage of some sheet copper that had been nailed on their bows, as it complete

the air 42° and the water 34°. By an azimuth of the sun

e getting rather short. A fresh breeze from the east brought in much ice, which completely blockaded our harbour. The morning of the 18th was very fine, but the easterly wind still continued, and such was the effect produced by it that not a spot of ope

which numbers of seals were lying, now opposed our further progress. At high-water next morning, we set forward among ice so closely packed, that we were obliged to open a passage by pushing aside the smaller pieces; we thus gained between two

° 9' 51" N.; the latitude of Broad River must therefore be 58° 7' N. A strong breeze of S.S.W. wind had driven

ducks of various kinds, and collecting eggs enough to keep us in food. A deer was also shot by Nibitabo on the 22nd, and on the 24th I procured from a high mound of ice, where it wa

in a small creek, which a

which gave us some hopes of an opening to seaward. In the evening much ice drove out

ter, and as the wind was moderate from E.S.E. we threaded our way, through narrow channels and openings, until opposite

and flat, with not a single rock in situ. There are, however, a numb

led ducks, great northern diver,[1] and the Arctic tern. The phalaropus hyperboreus is also very numerous-so much so that I could have shot twenty in half-an-hour. Th

ere were many ridges of stones lying off several miles from the beach, among which we had some

t we did not reach the Company's Fort, situated on the west bank of the river and about five miles up, until half-past six, when I

on leaving here some tobacco, salt, and one or two other articles that were not absolutely essential, supplying their place with pemmican and flour. Some observations for the dip of the needle gave mean dip

. A boat, having a harpooner both at bow and stern, sails out among the shoal, and being painted white, it does not alarm them; they approach quite close,

pected instructions arrived from Red River, via

ver Set

June

S

n shore of America, by surveying the only section of the same that has not yet been traced, namely, the deep bay, as it is supposed to be, st

important service, losing not a moment, at least on your outward voyage, in examining such part of the coast as has already been visi

ing any serious delay, the latitudes and longitudes of all the most remarkable points within the range of your operations, and also the general bearing and ex

f the ice; to winds and currents; to the soundings as well with respect to bottom as with respect to depth; to the magnetic dip and the variation of the compass; to the aurora borealis and the refraction of light. You will also, to the best of your opportunities, observe the ethnographical peculiarities of the Esquimaux of the country; and in the event of your wintering within the Arctic Circle, you will be c

carry, with such shooting, hunting, and fishing tackle as may enable you to husband your supplies. I need hardly mention medicines and warm clothing among the ne

ng care, however, to guard against surprise. For this purpose you will repeatedly and constantly inculcate on your

back a part of them to Churchill with one of the boats. For the remaining part of your men you cannot fail to find subsistence, animated as you and they are by a determination to fulfil your mission at the cost of danger, fatigue, and p

e; and at the close of your second season, after having accomplished the whole of your task, you will return according to your own discretion, either by your orig

e an interest in the subject are fixed on the Hudson's Bay Company; from us the world expects the final settlement of the question that has occupied the attention of our country for two hundred

rem

r,

) "G. S

Rae,

urc

on's

e river, where they were to wait for me a few hours. Besides an abundant supply of ammunition, guns, nets, tw

ican, about

rease, "

flour, ea

of alcohol

e of the bad effects of spirits in a cold climate. Considering that we were to be absent fifteen or perhaps twenty-seven months,

TNO

e another so much that it is very difficult to distinguish the one from the ot