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Southern Spain

Chapter 8 IN THE OLD KINGDOM OF VALENCIA

Word Count: 5791    |    Released on: 06/12/2017

ands is a continuation of the huerta of Murcia, and in the town itself we recognize the Aurariola which was the capital of the latter kingdom.

n north of the Pyrenees by the Arabic invasion, and who reintroduced it on their reconquest of this portion of their old territory. Before Valencia was recovered by James I. of Aragon-Jaime lo Conqueridor-the Christians of the province probably spoke Castilian or a tongue akin to it. Catalan was simply the language of the new rulers, which the people soon acquired. In the pro

ON THE RI

French author estimates at 80,000. In the shade of the avenues formed by these majestic trees flourish the laurel, the rose, and the geranium; beyond extend crops of lucerne and wheat, watered by the carefully regulated Vinalapó. For all the shade dispersed by the palms, Elche merits its sobriquet, "the frying-pan"!

sco Cantó, while patrolling the shore, encountered a man seated on a huge coffer. This stranger entreated the guard to carry his burden to Elche, and to deposit it at the first house where he saw a light, and having obtained his reluctant consent, abruptly disappeared. Cantó, in accordance with the mysterious man's instructions, left the chest at the Hermitage of San Sebastian. On opening it, it was found to contain an image of the Virgin and the words and music of the play as now performed. The image was

E-A

of water, which takes place here as at Lorca, but with official cal

enormous loads of oranges. In the harbour women are busy loading an English craft which flies the Blue Peter; they swarm up and down the side like ants, or rather like the colliers so familiar to passengers through the Suez Canal. The background to this scene of light and animation is formed by the enormous rock, comparable to Gibraltar, which is crowned by the ancient castle of Santa Barbara-so called after

unt, to shave with! The thought of the place in August makes the Northerner reach for a cooling drink. But I am assured that the he

sive culture. We are told that the Valencians are lazy, but if so it must be because the

dorm-so Proven?al in sound-and Alcoy, a busy, industrial centre, situated in a blooming orchard country. Here is celebrated every April the festival of St. George, when a sort of

IRL (COAST

situated in a country which might be described as a veritable Mahomet's paradise. The cottages in the neighbourhood are almost suffocated by the palm and orange trees. Beneath the golden fruit we find our way to the castle, or rather castles-the new and the old-built side by side upon a hill. Part of the fabric dates from the time of the Moors. Later, the

which may have been, as he alleges, dungeons, but were quite as li

hole villages. The village of Alcocer stood on its banks, near its confluence with the Albaida. After countless harvests had been devastated and inestimable damage to some extent repaired, the two streams swelled with fury and in one day reduced a vast extent of country to a flat stretch of mud. Then, by another shifting of its bed, the terrible Jucár laid bare the foundations of the homes it had ruined. There is no security of tenure within its valley! Where your house stands to-day, ships may ride to-morrow. Yet here as everywhere else along the prolific shore, the waters form the great source of wealth, fertilizing vas

ER CA

onsequent surrender. The history of few Roman colonies, as it has reached us, is of interest. The province had the usual martyrs under the persecutions of Diocletian and Decius, and was the place of

who, like the Janissaries of Turkey, had begun as slaves in the palace of the khalifa and won power for themselves with thei

y adventurers was overthrown by the

nions, and was alternately upheld on his tottering throne by one and the other. Weary of this dishonourable tutelage, the people arose under the leadership of Ibn Jahhaf. Kadir fled disguised as a woman, but

des came to his assistance, but precipitately retired. Distrusting these allies almost as much as the Christians, Ibn Jahhaf amused the Cid with negotiations, but meanwhile made preparations for defence. He became the special object of the famous warrior's hatred, and when the city fell, was burnt to death at the stake before the eyes of his horrified count

resistance offered by their descendants in Algeria in modern times. Enervated by the climate of Spain, the Mussulmans of that country were absolutely incapable of maintaining a prolonged guerrilla warfare. If a fortified capital was taken they at once handed over the whole kingdom to the conqueror. They were not, of course, peculiar in this respect. The sentiment of nationality and physical courage are characteristic far more of the modern than of the ancient world. We have only to compare the resistance of the Anglo-

pily in different styles, original and individual, forming a contrast to the dull uniformity of most Continental town perspectives. At two points the town is entered by massive gates of the castellated type-the Torres de Serranos and de Cuarte. The former date from the fourteenth century, and have two octagonal towers with heavy machicolations at two-thirds of their height; the machicolation is continued across the connecting storey, which is richly panelled above the narrow archway. The Torres de Cuarte are d

A-A P

750, it presents a dreadful jumble of styles, and is far behind the cathedrals of Andalusia in beauty and interest. The Micalet Tower, however, rising at the end of the Calle de Zaragoza, presents a striking appearance. It is the great landmark of the district, and the Valencians refer to

seven knights of the Conquest and the seven ladies (some say of Valencia, and others of Lerida) whom they married. From these alliances s

The plan is, as usual with Spanish churches, cruciform. The chancel was reconstructed in 1682, but the altar was melted down by the French in 1809. Fortunately the fine panel-shutters made for its protection in the sixteenth century have been preserved. They were carved by a carpenter named Carles, and are painted with scenes from the lives

731. The trophies which once adorned it have long since been carried off, among the

hat zealous missionary actually preached. It can, however, hardly be regarded as a curiosity,

A-SANTA

of Valencia, is entombed in the chapel dedicated to him. The chapel of another Valencian saint, St. Francis Borgia, is remarkable for a curious picture representing his conversion of a dying man. The pe

himneys, open galleries, and high windows, recall the palace-like chateaux of the Loire. Within is a noble hall divided into three by rows of spirally-fluted columns. The roof is studded with stars, and round the frieze runs the inscription: "He only that shall not have deceived nor done usury, shall be worthy of eternal life." For the commercial integrity of Valenc

rieta or Plaza Principe Alfonso, two charming shady spots, where numerous trees are reflected in the waters of the cool basins. Further off, across the parched Turia, you reach the Alameda, a leafy avenue w

olla and Benlliure. Ribalta may be studied here, and also the less-known masters of the Valencian school, such as Orrente, M

by irrigation and cultivation; so successfully indeed, that from Gandía to Valencia, for instance, a stretch of 100 kilometres, the gardens succeed each other so closely that

ALUSIA

al stream of Valencia-but every possible source is turned to account. Here the water supply, comprised in the Canal of Moncada and the Seven Canals,

ituated working man all the world over; but they have not discarded the native handkerchief round their polished brows or the espadrilla, or Valencian shoe. Each is known by the name of the canal which he represents-Mislata, Cuarte, and so forth. These peasant-magistrates having taken their seats, the oldest pronounces the words "Se obri el tribunal" (The tribunal is open). For a moment absolute silence reigns. Then those who have the right to be heard first are introduced within the railing and plead their cause bare-headed before the court. Woe to the insolent wight that dare stand covered in its presence! The alguazil will tear the handke

native of the city. The following roughly translated passages, though they convey little idea of the for

breaks off abruptly in his final trill, as though he had been stricken by the steely shaft of day. Sparrows in whole co

ck is heard from every farm; the village bells re-echo the call to prayer borne across from the towers of Valencia, which are yet misty in the distance; from the farmyards arises a discordant animal concert-the neighing o

the porches white figures appear, their hands clasped behind their necks, scanning the horizon. From the stables issue towards the city, milch cows, flocks

exchange greetings with those that stay in the fields: 'Bo

s with light and heat. The African sun rains torrents of fire on the land already cracked and wrinkled by its burning caresses, and its

ink cheeks of a child glow the apricots amid the verdure. Children greedily eye the luscious burden of the fig trees. From the garden

d of dust; in the naked fields among the stubble, sparrows hop from spot to spot in search of stray gleanings. Everywhere are happiness and joyous labour. Waggons go groaning down the road; children frolic in the fields and among the sheaves, thinking of the

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en toiling in the fields, not a beast at work on the road. Down the paths pass old women with their mantillas drawn over their eyes and their little chairs hanging to their arms. In the distance resound, like the tearing of linen, the shots fired at the swallows, which fly hither and thither in circles. A noise seems to be produced by t

and gorgeous handkerchiefs arranged mitre-like on their heads. The old men lean on their big Liria sticks. The young men

the water of wells and the red and dirty liquid of the canals. It is esteemed as an ancient and valuable work. It has a square basin with walls of reddish stone. The water is below the soil. You reach the bottom by means of six green and slippery steps. Opposite the steps is a defaced bas-relief, probably a Virgin attended by angels-no doubt an ex-voto of the time of the Conquest. Laughter and chatter ar

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