The Balkan Peninsula
contests of races-on the path from the cold north of Europe to the warm south; on the path from Asia to Europe; and each great campaign left b
may try to think that they are friends with others; but all have something of ha
est and the worst of them. I have been an unofficial member of a Bulgarian court-martial; the guest of a dozen and more Bulgarian and Serbian army outposts, dependent often for food and shelter on the kindness of peasant soldiers; for days have held at the mercy of Balkan peasants my life and my property; have been mistaken for a wandering Turk twice, and have never suffered violence, rudeness, or the loss of a pennyworth. For the peasants, the commonfolk of all the Balkan peoples, I have come thus to a hearty liking; their priests and politicians (with a few exceptions), a different feeling. Knowing that the massacre is the national sport in many districts of the
od & Un
AN TRI
the Turkish occupation a Bulgarian mother finding herself with child after violence by a Turk brought up the child with her family, w
r up to five francs for a loaf without tempting him to sell it. Finally I had to get bread as a charity by declaring that I was actually in want of it for food. Later, travelling between Silivri and Chatalja, I encountered four Bulga
officers. Nearly always I had the same experience, that I was made free of the stewed goat and rice, or the dish of eggs and flour, or the bread and cheese of the Bulgarians, and when I wished to add from m
a sort of an education-often abroad-and becomes the lawyer, politician, official. In very many cases he carries with him into a higher stratum of society few of his peasant virtues and all of his peasant faults. He gets an overweening pride in his own acuteness. He becomes arrogant, "too-clever-by-half," and intrigue teaches him cruelty. I can contrast vividly two Bulgarian types in a noted diplomat, who fancied himself a Bismarck
that I was with the main army I saw no trace of outrage or cr
y's march. A vedette outpost of five men held the bridge. They took me-as I judged from their gestures rather than from their language, of which I understood only one word, "Turc"-for a Turk. But they let me stay unmolested at their camp fire for an hour until an officer
page
K IN
ause most of the trouble when the Turk lives by the side of a Christian population); much addicted to sweetmeats-his shops were full of Scotch lollies and English biscuits. Certainly most of the Turks I have encountered were prisoners or dwelling in conquered country. But, making all allowance for that, the traditional fiery Turk of martial fame no longe
of joy, as he had been without it for long. The horses carried the cart a gallant thirty miles that day, and we camped at a burned-out village. Mr. Turk set himself to enjoy a smoke over the fire. My own supper I prepared, and gave him some to eke out his bread and cheese, and then told him to water and feed the horses. Because the well was 400 yards away and the tobacco was sweet and the fire comforting, the Turk had no wish to do this, but was ready to le
e, no water supply (I was not in Adrianople). Except for a few agricultural peasants I found nowhere the Turk doing any useful work. In a characteristic Turkish town the shops were kept by Greeks, the industries carried on by Greeks, Macedonians, and Bulg
u will understand from the first glance at the men more of the interminable Balkan difficulty than newspapers and books can ever teach you. These are the fellows who swoop down from their peaks on the mixed races of the plains and carry fire and slaughter through village and valley. Their natural aptitude for
ad letter. It is the most strongly marked and salient type I have ever met with. There is the Moslem walk, the Moslem scowl, the Moslem courtesy, the Moslem dignity, the Moslem carriage and attitudes and features, the Moslem composure, and the Moslem fury. All thes
ty. Every race goes through a time when the virile estimate of life and the splendour of self-assertion seem the finest things possible. It is at this time it is open to the attack of El Islam. The Moslem religion answers all its needs at this stage, and lays good hold of it, and havin
anople-the Bulgarians found it necessary to burn a village for strategic reasons. The chance was offered to the Press photographers of seeing this, if it were represented in their pictures as the atrocious burning of a village by the Turks. I believe that the offer was accepted by some. The "atrocities" by Turks, regularly recorded by the Bulgarian Press B
e for long in Europe. As a matter of hard fact th
ulgarian would supply incomparable infantry, the Serbians be superior in artillery and cavalry. In social life the Serbian is convivial and hospitable. Whilst the Bulgarian wishes to go to bed early that
nd the two camps was great. The Serbian men were smarter, better equipped, their quarters cleaner, and from their m
then already existed in the Serbian mind a desire to modify the territorial partition arrangement they had with Bulgaria and this request for aid might have been taken as a good opportunity for raising that question. I believe those to be the facts, but since in Balkan diplomacy it is always a matter of finding out the truth of comparing and weighing and deducing from a series of lies, I cannot state them wi
ng salt into her bare carcase. The Turkish delegates approached the Serbians-whose territorial demands as far as Turkey was concerned were satisfied, but who had a pending controversy with the Bulgarians-hoping to get some moral support against Bulgaria and being prepared to offer something in return. Th
page
PON THE ALBA
ll were wrong. The Greeks did exceedingly well in the field, even allowing that they sometimes shaped their campaign quite as much by considerations of jealousy of their allies as of hostility to the common enemy. But it is a fact that the Greek has usu
be urged to support autonomy for Thrace. Well, the Turks are back at Kirk Kilisse, and I suppose my Greek friends are happy. Eloquent, courteous, kind folk they were. I stayed in the house of one for some days, and will remember always the gracious kindness of the man and his wif
horses and to stock up my provisions, the permission was withdrawn because Bashi-Bazouks were raiding along the line of communication. I mi
ly, "he is a Greek.
owed to borrow a rifle and some ammunition. We met no Bashi-Bazouks: but whilst the Bulgarian palpably was quite content to enter into a plan to give the Bashi-Bazouks a chance of showing themselves at nightfall, the Greek l
aps. Others held to the fez, but had marked on it with white chalk a cross. I formed the opinion that if by the fortune of war the Turks came back, those crosses would be rubbed out. The Greek can be very pliant undoubtedly, when he is in
d-looking race, and Roumanian girls are sought after in marriage a great deal. A Serbian politician explaining to me what he called "a nice national balance," pointed out that the Serbians rather despised trade and f
he Greek and the Roumanian are very keen traders with an inclination to escape from manual work as soon as they can. The Bulgarian is a trader and also
ander" of the Serbian and shares Serbian language, customs, and character with such modifications as the conditions of his mountain life impose. But the Albanian, the largely Mohammedan mountain type to which the jealousies of Europe have agreed to give a separate nationality and a separate kingdom, calls for some attention. The Albanian is the wildest of the Balkan types, and his country the most primitive. It has had no period of civilisation, and can hardly be said to promise to have. Its existence as a nation in 1914 was due to the fact that the German Powers wished to have a footing in the Balkans for intrigue. "The creation of Albania dealt a death-blow to the Balkan League," said a cynical Austrian diplomatist recen
a to the Adriatic coast during the
wild and uncultivated! Prishtina, Jakovitsa, and Prizrend are in every respect behind Mirigevo [a village some miles outside Belgrade]. There are neither bridges nor roads, nor decent dwellings to be met with in the Sanjak. Of the dirt I cannot trust myself to speak. The "Ujumat"
sure to kill them, so they were hidden indoors. The first use they made of the liberty we gave them was to hunt the pigs into the open air, and how the poor beasts enjoyed it! One could not help laughing at their antics as they chased each other, while the children ran to keep them from escaping to the woods. But the cows and oxen defy description. They are like our calves, only the shape is queer. I saw no vegetables anywhere. The staple diet is maize. From our frontier to the sea it is the same tale of misery, he
same. And for all practical purposes they are right. The Christian Albanians are called by their race brethren "Catholics," and are hated and persecuted by them just as the Serbians are hated and persecuted. The "Catholics" loathe the Mohammedans and deny that they are of the same nationality. But the fact remains that they speak the same language. The Catholics welcomed us with joy, rendered us every possible service, and often refused to accept payment. They are eager to assist in our operations, acted as scouts for us, and brought us precious information. So
h ammunition is sometimes scarce, but the Montenegrin can better spare bread than shot. He will do nothing but fight, and ships often remain unladen here for days, because there are few Albanians in the place to do the work. My soldiers carry sacks and burdens of all kinds to and from the ships, and the Montenegrins laugh at them and say: "Is that how you fight, Brother Shumadi
of Serb intolerance in that letter, bu
elements create: for there is no fact more clear than that the general interest of the countries could best be served by a wise policy of compromise and co-operation, bringing its differen
an victories), now commanding a Russian army; M. Venizuelos, Prime Minister of Greece; M. Take Jonescu, of the Roumanian Cabinet. All men of power, none seemingly has sufficient strength to
rear of his army during the 1912 campaign against Turkey. But whatever the cause, his absence from the front showed a serious weakness of character in a man who aspired to carve out an empire for himself. The Bulgarian authorities, deceiving the Press almost as assiduously for the purpose as for the false representation that all the destruction of the Turkish forces was ascribable to the Bulgarian arms, gave to Europe inspiriting pictures of His Majesty following close on the heels of his soldiers in a military train which served him as a palace. The fact was that the ambitious but timid king kept very well to the rear, at Stara Zagora first and afterwards at Kirk Kilisse, with a great entourage of secret police. And when armistice negotiations were in progress he kept separate from his Cabinet as well as from his army. Affable in manner, industrious, pertinacious, well aware of the advantage of advertisement (my first m
y small group of correspondents who had got through to the front. His personal staff worshipped him, and told with pride that most of the staff work with him on the battle-field was under fire. When it was clear that the attack at Chatalja had failed, General Demetrieff neither attempted to tell falsehoods nor shut himself off from visitors. He ascribed the cessation of the attack to the outbreak of cholera in the Bulgarian lines (and the statement was probably in his mind not only the tru
est. M. Daneff was a more virile man, and his force of character, with little guidance from experience, of liberal education, or from wise purpose, had much to do with the downfall of Bulgaria. Of the Balkan Peace Conference which met first in London in December 1912, M. Daneff attempted from the outset to be dictator. He never lost a chance of being rude to an opponent or fulsome to a supporter. He diplomatised by pronunciamento and made a vigorous use of the minor newspaper Press with the idea of overawing the chancelleries of Europe. I am sure that the British Foreign Secretary, Sir Edward Grey, had
have made the chances of peace better; and probably he had an expectation of being chosen as being the senior in official rank of all those present. But the jealousy and distrust of Greece was great: and M. Venizuelos did not prove himself the man of genius who could overcome th
the Balkan States. As the Minister of a Balkan Union to a great Power he would be admirable, for he has tact and wit, and a knowledge of the value of truth. When it was made plain that Austria was to have her way and Serbia no territory on the Adriatic, the disappointment of Serbia was bitter: and there was some special blame of Great Britain
ying the tenets of "The Prince" with cold precision, and marks its author as the master mind of the Balkans to-day. Give such a man a good soldier people to follow him and an honest purpose, and a Balkan Confederation might be achieved
ow to ensure internal peace and freedom from outside interference. A great man could build up a greater Switzerland, perhaps, of the Slavs, the Greeks, and the Roumanians in the Balkan Peninsul
N
, Empe
4, 65, 68 des
occupati
coast, 15
slands,
i, t
17, 62 cond
cter, 173, 193
tain
tenberg. See Ale
of Bulgaria, 47
er the
ar corresp
, Sultan o
, Sultan of
tectu
nli,
eni
163, 164 mod
nd cra
r, invasi
invasion
yri
akha
and Serbia
e Balkans, 45, 46, 49 wa
he Christian
Sultan of
5, 53, 55, 57, 59, 74, 174
in the war, 87,
tee, t
opmen
macy,
on, 75
ains,
1912, 75, 78, 80, 81, 176
esma
, 176 peoples a
ician
sts,
smen,
912, 46,
esume
en,
c Sea
ng, 1
uks, 26, 3
e Bulgar-
cultiva
6, 124, 146
arab
or E. T. F.,
ylas of Mo
3, 5, 120 l
mist,
ia,
dical Detachmen
ss Hosp
eons
est, 3
-Pes
37 an autonomous
ten
es of (1
influenc
nment
ation
erbian
h provin
ersal su
r, 12
To-day, extr
itions, 61 ar
of 19
citi
s in Mace
nomy
ers,
ip. See
ter, 1
rch
riat, 69
ps,
cy, 85-
ic intri
chat
ce, 6
rals
mony
ital
stry
service,
y tacti
tion, 59
egotiat
ants
ess for w
Bure
of 1875
Servi
land ten
Liberat
en,
3, 4, 9
r. Noel,
rt, 164 tra
és,
ets,
sus,
98, 100, 101, 115, 12
econd
inje
ng of Rouma
a, 61,
rso
sone
dysenter
rlu
. See Ar
of Berl
14, 15, 20, 26, 43, 61,
-spinn
cier syste
excavat
War, 32,
ers, t
c chara
ans,
f, M.
King of Mon
2, 3, 7,
elles,
the e
the you
General, 67,
ravages
er Ri
ter R
ossac
Rive
chy, probl
igno
azz
n Chur
n Rume
n influ
ideri
ation
r correspo
os
oi, 136,
agrah,
Zagor
tal, 174 dipl
y and Ro
anc
cy,
in 1912
intere
nterventi
ine
e Christ
ia, 47, 49, 50, 108, 152,
burg. See Ferdi
King of t
ugric
Martyrs of
cidal
k Barbar
r corresp
, Peninsu
ical pos
ida
Power
r corresp
See D
8, 9, 13, 20 i
an disunion,
urkish
ece
in Macedonia, 51
rch
isati
st,
omac
11, 12, 13,
, fall
s in Rou
al rep
archa
otism
ster. See
tions
indepen
eks
r Edward
a Redo
off,
es. Se
provinc
resor
dotu
ovina,
y, Ear
n, Mr.
services,
ans, 11
11, 13 invas
n of,
onal Socia
letter-
ros
ula, 1 war cor
ack, of Mon
i, batt
ina
e censo
e?e
Czar of B
Hunya
gos, Emperor
M. Take
, Colon
lism,
rge." See
isse, 42
ea,
21 battle
endi
endj
ing of S
t, th
progress s
uani
rds,
rning Pos
sbury's pr
as, 68 ba
74 atrocities
re o
res in
ple. See
o Boli
za Ri
Sea of, 6
St. Sof
he national
al spri
ean littor
Czar of B
Brave, of
Pasha,
ia,
attachés,
enovic of
sources in
civilis
sia
medan
ia, 13
ter, 173, 193 prin
e of Turk
th Aus
th Tur
8, 32, 33, 37, 46
ost, the.
os, monas
natio
eon,
strategy, 1
ast, t
tern cha
ef, Dr
eff, Ge
n Riv
ch, M.,
43, 12
c tri
knigh
man
vasions, 13
h Se
Sagor
-Baz
ssa
sso
bi
Serb
l Expre
ogot
n. See
ons, 1
ate Chris
rence. See
f Bucha
f Londo
ians
Great of
, George
of Ma
is, 8, 44 c
Roman E
aisin
ot,
na,
aks
toric
nfluenc
ive tar
cart
proselyt
the, 151
ds,
ch, 16 civ
1, 2,
, decline of
tions
ns,
ltivati
22, 29, 37 Gree
dent princ
of, 4
ion of,
garris
gatio
sh prov
acter, 191, 19
enden
respond
en,
ania
ne
e Balkans, 44, 45, 49 g
at Kirk K
in Bulg
rs of Bu
er,
respond
ese War, ef
manian al
r of 1828, 32 of
, 46, 62
ments, absence o
ns, 4,
General,
uml
ri, 7
ia, 5
resorts,
stop
niki
c inva
26, 37 as a Eu
vernment
rrisons wi
sh prov
r, 186-188 conte
omac
on to Au
ire
, fall
sts,
ander
of terr
rati
resour
tain
Austria
en,
ans,
garian Al
s. See
Pass,
stri
of Bulg
raditi
vs,
a, battl
5 the Militar
av Art Exhi
48 assassin
Zago
King of Serbia
Great, of
en,
erlan
tries
s, 4,
Lieutenant
orl
ra Riv
ic kni
nenus, Czar
ssa
, 44, 51 an
ampaign, 5
o-Dac
-Illyr
Macedon
urch of the Fo
cultivat
ssibilitie
, Ear
jan
ylvan
ities, 155-1
Adrianople
Berlin,
ucharest (1
of Lond
aris (1856)
Stefano, 43,
ches
lliance,
ussian
-in-Eu
6 atrocities, 19
ter, 1
upti
lty,
at the Con
in Bulgaria
chment
on, fi
ion, 17
of ref
urope, dec
oner
at the Peace C
ly,
ulgaria,
n Serb
ncide
ann
ages
, 13 before
-Seve
ra
kans. See Ba
s, Empe
dal
rn
tian
ice
M., 83, 19
109 sieg
es, th
goth
la Ri
paler, of W
a Ri
s. See
nga
chia,
ns. See R
98, 99, 102, 103, 107,
ol, 107,
g of t
nal rec
Liberat
sport
i, 42,
battle
lac
E
R. Clark, Limi
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tist shows us a land in which civilisation is evident and art not unknown. The Australian author (who was with the Bulgarian Army as correspondent for the London Morning Post during the former Balkan War) writes of a people whom he found usu
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s the cradle of Christian civilisation. Whether to tourists who contemplate a visit to Italy or to those who cannot hope for that pleasure, Italy will be welcome. The author has left to the vivid pictures the main task
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ands of both heroes and waiters, which is celebrated alike for generous hospitality to refugees and the most strictly commercial hospitality to tourists, has a paradoxical aspect whatever way it is regarde
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e his attention drawn to the features of her life which are most characteristic: residents in England will find interest in studying an impression of their country from a sympathetic
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y, architecture, the doctor, the priest, the midinette, the constitution, the great rivers, the watering-places, hunting, vine-growing, and school life are a few of the many topics that come in orderly sequence in the book. After reading the
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is well worth considering. Its story of romance, its scenery is not behind any in Europe, though, except for the Tyrol and the Dolomites, it is far from well known. In the reconstruction of politica
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OF THE AL
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Ex-member of th
fessor of English Literature
ofessor of Japanese in t
ew College, Oxford; Author of T
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d certainly no patriot, should hesitate to rea
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"country-side" and "countrys
war" may be an error for "I went throu
howevre" (on p. 21) has b
ossovo, Nova Zagora, Chorlu and Zablak are indexed as "Kossova", "Nova Sagora",