The Boy Craftsman

for besides being something with which to keep him busy, the experience gained by its practice

turn out neatly executed work, he will find the occupation a profitabl

bed in following chapters, are a few of the many things he can construct. Many of these are salable articles, bes

a boy a handiness for devising and putting to

ed work with no danger of them being disturbed, and where he need not be

d View of

a corner large enough to contain a work-bench, carpenter's horses, and tool-cabinets, besides plenty of room to work in, should be p

be constructed beneath the window. It is a good idea to build this on to the wall if pos

inches long, for crosspieces. Spike the crosspieces on to the legs and on to the piece nailed to the wall, as shown in Fig. 1. Cut three ten-inch planks, six feet long, and spike them to the crosspieces so that they pro

ch-screw, similar to those in Figs. 2 and 3, can

ke. Figures 1, 4, and 5

Iron Ben

ooden Ben

apron and table-leg, six inches below the bench-top (see A in Figs. 4 and 5). The portion of the iron screw marked B in Fig. 2 should be set into the hole bored in the bench-leg a

Details of

Then shut the vise and mark upon the inside of the jaw the place where the mortise comes in the leg. Nail one end of the fifteen-inch strip to the jaw at this point, being careful to get it in such a position that the other end will slide i

d the other rested upon a peg stuck in a hole bored in the side of the bench. For boards of different lengths, several holes

the most satisfactory, as it can be adjusted to different heights. It costs but little and is easily put in place. A mortise is made in the top of the bench to receive the lower portion of the stop, and the plate A is set flush with the bench-top and held in place with screws driven

s.

ms of Be

sts of two screws placed in the top of the bench, which can be

uth" cut in one side. It should be nailed to one end of the bench in such

tion of sawing done with the wood in the vise, large pieces, espe

g.

the angle of the bevel will of course determine the angle at which the legs will spread. Cut the legs out of four-inch boards, and bevel the lower ends to make them set solidly upon the floor. Nail the legs firmly in place and brace them with tw

g.

surface uneven, unless something is placed beneath the wor

n it as shown in the drawing, one at right angles and the other two at forty-five degrees. These may be laid off with a try-square, as shown in Figs. 38 and 39 (Chapter II), or with the bevel, as shown in Fig. 42. Be careful to keep the saw on the line and in a perfectly perpend

.-A Ben

will

r-inch piece as shown in the drawing, after which you are ready to cut the mitres. These should be laid out similar to those on the bench-hook, by means of the mitred try-square or the bevel. With the blade of the try-square or bevel extending across the top edges of the side-pieces, mark off

.-A Mit

s, for not only accuracy is obtained by its use, but time is also saved. In using one be careful not to let

ood should be thoroughly sand-papered. In many cases

nch and one-half from each end cut "rabbets" one inch wide across the block, and make two blocks to fit them. When this has been done, cut a strip of sand-paper two and one-half inches wide and stretch it around the block, holding it in place by drivin

-Sand-pa

t of a block of wood, with a piece of shoe-leather, or

positions. You will have need of it in putting up such buildings as the back-yard club-house, the log-cabin, and t

ached fastened to the other end. The notch should be cut in the exact centre of the end of the stick, and the nail placed in the other

e string, which should hang in the centre of the notch when the object is plumb. The length of the stick may be ma

g.

ime, getting a good quality of steel, and to gradually increase your outfit as your money permits. Then if you really want a chest you can make it yourself. A hatchet, hammer, saw, plane, chisel, jack-knife, bit and bit-stock, screw-driver, and square

OM WHICH TO MAKE

ch Jack

ch Fore

Smoothi

nch Ri

h Cross-

nch Ba

ch Comp

or Brac

chet

h, ?-inch, ?-inch,

ansiv

l Giml

w-driv

unte

rad

d Gim

matic-

ch, ?-inch, ?-i

?-inch a

aw-k

ck-k

atc

amm

ck H

all

s (large a

Screw

od R

tal

Cutting

r Pin

ind-

one and

St

t Foldi

Steel

ch Try

Be

king-

omp

ustrated in the following chapter. These directions should be carefull

, as it can be more easily got at than a chest, where it is necessary to lif

.-Tool-

door from the box-cover, fastening the boards together by means of two battens placed at the top and bottom (see il

de similar to Fig. 16, and fastened sid

the end of the saw to fit in and the other for the blade of the try-square (see Fig.

it and Chi

ther tools on

nt it inside and out, and fasten

r your increase in tools, you can keep

used tools. Either screw the cabinets t

on the wall. A piece of grooved siding nailed abo

something in which to carry such tools

arpenter's C

rst prepare the end-pieces, making them six by sixteen inches and rounding the tops with the compass-saw, as shown in the illustration. Then cut a board twenty-five inches long by six inches wide for the bottom and nail the end-pieces

have nails, screws, and bolts mixed up with them

-box such as can be bought for ten or fifteen cents. This is divided in two and has a handle attached (see Fig. 18). The two compartments should be sub-divided

8.-Nai

fferent sizes, and it is a good idea to letter these receptacles that you ma

y to keep paint-cans

er hard upon them, especially the trousers. Better than these is a pair of overalls

s and coats, and for your working clothes, if yo

k from being disturbed, it is advisable to have a lock upo

such as oily waste and rags, in covered tin cans,