The Trail of the Goldseekers

ld not be turned aside. An immense army still pushed on to the north. This I joined on the 20th day of April, leaving my home in Wisconsin, bound for the ove

ne of them, and record their deeds. I wished to return to the wilderness also, to forget books and theories of art and social problems, and come again face to face with the great free spaces of woods and skies an

CO

e stock this

rown with sa

orms, his fi

as the beas

e over.-Libid

dust and d

nows in ca

s bed down

PTE

FIT

swales of the limitless sod, which was silent, dun, and still, with a majesty of arrested motion like a polar ocean. It was like Dakota as I saw it in 1881. When it was a treeless desolate expanse, swept by owls and hawks, cut by feet of wild cattle

ay. While a few like myself had set out for Teslin Lake by way of "The Prairie Route." There were women going to join their

en cooked their meals on the range in the forward part of the car, or attended to the toilets of the children, quite as regularly as in their own homes; while the men

e sight of a flock of antelopes developed in each man a frenzy of desire to have a shot at them. It was a wild ride, and all day we climbed over low swells,

domes into the blue sky in savage grandeur. The little snow-covered towns seemed to cower at their feet like timid animals lost in the

e town lay low on the sand, a spatter of little frame buildings, mainly saloon

he little hotel swarmed with the rudest and crudest types of men; not dangerous men, only thoughtless and profane teamsters and cow-boys, who drank thirstily and ate like wolv

ters and cattle men went on, concerning regions of which I had never heard. Men spoke of Hat Creek, the Chilcoten country, Soda Creek, Lake La Hache, and Lilloat. Chinamen in long boots,

ong the outfitters of course the chief beneficiaries were the horse dealers, and every corral swarmed with mangy little cayuses, thin, hairy, and wild-eyed; while on the fences, in silent meditation or low-voiced conferences, the intending purchasers sat in rows like dyspeptic ravens. The wind

nd long road," they said, "and a lot of those fellows who have never tried a trail of this kind will find it anything but a picnic excursion." They had known a few me

leton on the Skeena, and at Glenora on the Stikeen. Even with this arrangement it was necessary to carry every crumb of food, in one case three hundred and sixty miles, and in the other case four hundred miles. However, the first two hundred and twenty miles would be in the nature of a practice march, for the trail ran thro

be deceived. Before many days had passed, we had acquired the reputation of men who thoroughly knew w

k or mean broncos, and heard many stories of their troubles and trials. Th

p the street. As I watched the splendid fling of his fore-feet, the proud carriage of his head, the

ming to see you, and you can h

looking the horse all over, with a subtle show of not b

d I knew by the tone of his voi

l, examining every limb meanwhile;

aced in his hand a fifty-dollar bill, and too

l him

Ladrone," I said to Burto

are "streaky," but I could discover nothing. He was quick on his feet as a cat, listened to every word that was spoken to him, and obeyed as instantly and as cheerfully as a dog. He took up his feet at request, he stood over in the stall at a touch, and to

the best there

to be kind and gentle, and so at last we were ready to make a trial. It was a beauti

addles. Our "truck" was ready on the platform of the storehouse, and the dealer in horses had agreed to pack the animals in order to show that they were "as rep

remarked, and he was led away.

en one of the men took off his bandanna and began

rick. I don't want a horse whose eye

of Ladrone. An Indian standing near said to Burton,

partner, with a si

e and strong, and we made a bargain without noise. At last it seemed we might be able to get away. "To-

ting out, while other outfits already supplied were crawling up the distant hill like loosely articulated canvas-colored worms. Outfits from Spokane and other southern towns began to drop down in

LAIN T

sands aflam

cedars drippi

set my b

nce Uncompagre

k to roc

ite a

orse sniffs

l, too faint f

see afar

grasses where

es and clove

oney-

leam of snow-

shields of te

ch sovereign

torm-clouds v

h hail an

of s

ithful! soon y

nostril to th

est where foam-w

cliff, and y

unger or the

ss desert

PTE

E STA

uccessfully over some fourteen miles of the road. It was warm and beautiful, and we felt greatly relieve

y a thousand miles of trail, and the mysterious gold fields of the far-off Yukon. For two hundred and twenty miles the road ran nearly north toward the town of Quesnelle, which was the trading camp for the Caribou

l stream came down from the hills near us. A little farther up the road a big and hairy Californian, with t

on, round and brilliant, was rising just above the mountains to the east, as

rnian sauntered by, looking at our little folding stove, our tent,

re just out on a kind o

of derision in his

We shall be glad to see you a

ught up wit

t Quesnelle and Stanley. I will not call them tramps, for every man who goes afoot in this land is entitled to a certain measure of respect. We camped at night just outside the little village called Clinto

allized eggs and evaporated potatoes which made up a part of our

ver, the bacon was good and so was the graham bread which he t

es breaking illimitably upon the sky. The air sharpened as we rose, til

ing across it, as if in fear of its blazing publicity. It seemed for a moment as if he were an optical illusion, so beautiful, s

, "Where i

e the matter. "See here, Burton, it will be bloody business if we kill that deer. We couldn't eat all of it; you wouldn't want to skin it; I c

ul. "Well, we might se

s Burton spoke, it turned, silent as a shadow, and running to the crest of the hill stood for a moment outlined like a figure of bronze a

e road, however, and thereafter met but few outfits. The road was by no means empty, however. We met, from time to time, great blue or red wagons drawn by four or six horses, moving with pleasant

d poisoned them. There were no ranches of any extent on these hills. The trail continued to be filled with tramping miners; several seemed to be without bedding or food. Some drove little pack animals laden with blankets, and all walked l

ready by his learning and gentleness, but when one of my packhorses ran around him, entangling me in the lead rope, pulling me to the ground, the final test of his quality came. I expec

e, and said, "Old boy, if you carry me through to Teslin

e lambs were at play on the green grass. Blackbirds were calling, and we heard our first crane bugling high in the sky. From the loneliness

for. All day we skirted fine lakes with grassy shores. Cranes, ducks, a

d again, and they began to waver and talk among themselves; and at last, having decided that this voice from below should be heeded, they broke rank and commenced sweeping round a

untered our first mosquitoes. Big, black fellows they were, with a lazy, droning sound quite di

horses were often poisoned by eating a certain plant, and that the mud and streams were terrible. Flies were a never ending torment. All these

rth transparent yellow leaves. On the grassy slopes some splendid yellow flowers quite new to me waved in the warm but strong breeze. On th

ormed a queer collection of old men addicted to rum. They all came out to admire Ladrone and to criticise my pack-saddle, and

to my side to inquire,

n Lake,"

you ever expect to get there? It is a t

k of the river. We, however, kept the stage road which ran on the high ground of the eastern bank, forming a most beautiful drive.

and forests, breaking at last on the great gold range. To the west, a still wilder country reaching to the impassable east range. On this, our e

comfortable, and I did not wish to be dis

tent, grew still more interested. "There is a bear o

the tent." Burton began snapping the lever of the gun impatiently and whispering something about not being

p," I wearily said, "pu

ied; "but I can't

the matter. I rose and looked out. As I saw a long, black, lean creat

let him go, hadn'

us alone I think we had better let him alone, especially as his hide is w

he dark of the forest. The whole adventure came about naturally. The smell of our frying meat had gone far up over the hills to our right and off into the great wilderness, alluring this

le, and of the slow jog, jog, jog. But at last there came an hour which made the trouble worth while. When our camp was set, our fire lighted, our supper eaten, and we could stretch out and

NTOU

ling in the

nd that stret

not till

of rosy s

of plainsma

tell why

say, I do

d wolf and

mesa, squar

ch power t

is. Deep i

ar the winds

rgot is ma

nd set amb

though they

WI

nd many d

head set to

de a longin

t keep the

horse righ

ay still laggi

h boyhood f

all the da

odor of the g

f sumach on

of grasses

y brain of a

my heart so

lines could

ld I be f

sky's unfai

PTE

P AT Q

ers, we could see great ridges rolling in waves of deep blue against the sky to the northwest. Over these our slen

h slope above the Fraser. We overtook many prospectors

n, Hong Kong, and Madrid, hung on the walls of the post-office. They

nds of mine. The ride was very desolate and lonely, a steady climb all the way, through fire-devastated forests, toward the great peaks. Snow lay in the roadside ditc

t sands, and the sun-lit buttes and valleys of Arizona and Monta

ing here to rest and fill their parflêches. On the opposite side of the river others could be seen in camp, or already

ertain respect for that narrow little path which was not an arm's span in width, but which was nearly e

mixed with lard or vaseline. "It will keep the mosquitoes and most of the flies away," he said. "I know, for I have tried it. You can't wear a net, at least I never could. It is too warm, and

IFT O

ater

ainsme

nd pass in the

finge

ss t

e sombre

smiles and ans

high, he si

desert

ss in the dr

bond of the

n. Your a

UN

mount towa

e's hear

put the

ver lakel

treams wax wh

's nest d

widens, hid

is frost

cliff to c

e's hear

ver broadn

he rive

AGLE

ck-buil

le, with a thr

g scream. Her s

w-topped crags

g with her qu

brood, with

very shadow.

low. The su

e icy, ir

d the mountain

trail and the

ar nigh

PTE

LOGY OF TH

p T

we had left the way of tin cans and whiskey bottles, and were now about to enter upon the actual trail. The horses gav

having provisions sufficient to carry us over the three hundred and sixty miles which lay between the Fraser and our next eating-place on the Skeena.

leness of voice. I gladly make him historical. He sold me the

rk tradesman. He was small, candid, and smooth, very smooth, of speech. He said: "Yes, the pony i

d fat and gentle." On that I had rested. Mr. Dippy joined us at the ferry and waited around to finish the trade. I presumed he intended to cross a

strength of my side partner's repo

ed out of the log stable a smooth, round, lithe-bodied little cayuse of a blue-gray color. He looked like a child's toy, but seemed sturdy and of good condition. His foretop was "banged

chap," said I, to ease my partner of his d

ight," replied my partner. "He se

the pony dozed peacefully. Once or twice I thought I saw his ears cross; one laid back

e the blue pony stood resting o

us, and varied bucking it has ever been given me to witness. He all but threw somersaults. He stood on his upper lip. He humped up his back till he looked like a lean cat on a graveyard fence. He stood on his toe

her horses, I faced

re did you get that nice, qui

The little divil. Buffalo Bi

thing to do is to put that pack on so that it will

bang were a little more alert, but they showed neither fear nor rage. We roped him

the earth. He whirled like a howling dervish, grunting, snorting-unseeing, and almost unseen in a nimbus of dust, strap ends, and flying pine needles. His whirling undid him. We seized the rope, and just as the pac

nder," said

drew his hind legs up to his head till he grunted. When he was permitted to rise, he looked meek and small and tired and we were both deeply remorseful. We r

ating over us from across the river," said I t

t, watchful, but not vicious. He went off-precisely like one of those mechanical mice or turtles which sidewalk venders operate. Once started, he could not stop till he ran down. He seemed not to take our stern measures in bad part. He reg

ng out all winter and is a little wild. He's sat

e chap, my heart tingled with pity and remorse. "We

t be careful not to give him a sudde

e passed into another spasm, opening and shutting like a self-acting jack-knife. He bound

, unable to rise, spatting the wind, breathing heavily. Such annoying energy I have never seen. We were now mad, muddy, and very resolute. We held him down till he lay quite still. Any well-considered, properly bred animal would have been

ON TH

ad creeping a

ke asleep ben

subtle fa

ry calm, thei

more the b

under clou

s and spl

s close, my

thy hot floo

s oil the w

brain cries

PTE

ING OF THE

black pines by an adventurous telegraph company in 1865. Immense sums of money were put into this venture by men who believed the ocean cable could not be laid. The work wa

. It was an irritation to all of us who knew the easy swing, the circumspection, and the labor-saving devices of an Indian tr

und us, grim, stern, and forbidding. We were done with civilization. Everything that was required for a home in the cold and in the heat was bound upon our five h

in feed, and to hustle in order to get everything under cover before the rain began to fall. We were only twelve miles on our way, but being wet and col

he wet bush, partner stirred up a capital breakfast of bacon, evaporated potatoes, crystallized eggs, and graham bread. He had discovered at last the exact amount of water to use in cooking these "vegetables," and they w

ked a part of the outfit to relieve the other horses. There was no fun in the day, only worry and

. There were other outfits on the trail having a full ton of supplies, and this great weight had to be handled four times a day. In our case the toil was much less, but it was only by snatching time from my partner that I was able to work on my note

n this trail. All toes pointed in one way, toward the golden North. No man

he horses were "cussed into camp," the coffee was hot, and the bacon and beans ready to be eaten. A race in packing took place to see who should pull out first. At about seven o'clock in the morning the outfits began to move. But here there was a difference of method. Most of them travell

sed and went out to see if all the horses were in the bunch, and edged them along toward the camp. I then packed up the

hind my saddle, my camera dangling handily, my rope

o," Burton inv

never failed to touch me, to see them fall in, one by one. The "Ewe-neck" just behind Ladrone, after him "Old Bill," and behind him, groaning and taking on as if in great pain, "Major Grunt," while at the rear,

r backs. Others fell to feeding. Sometimes Bill would attempt to pass the bay in order to walk next Ladrone. Then they would scrouge against each other like a couple of country schoolboys, to see who sho

lly in complete silence, for I was too far in a

s we threw up our tent and started our fire, I heard two cranes bugling magnificently from across the marsh, and with my field-glass I could see them stridin

of the setting sun, were holding clamorous convention. This is one of the compensating moments of the trail. To come out of a gloomy and forbidding wo

out of the cold, clear night the splendid voices of the cranes rang tri

OOPING

rom the sha

lake, amon

s brazen-th

ning cat with

ne hears

me all, come

s challenge

ast the woo

long, my wing

answer to

rless, trium

rough the wo

amorous, cl

ed mountains

E

me fa

water

the coyote mu

the sun

m the fai

rsh cr

nce of t

f answers with

PTE

CKWATER

streams were our only objective points; the mountains had no names, and the monotony of the forest produced a singular effect on our minds. Our journ

he bench was wooded and grassy, and the smooth brown trail wound away sinuous as a serpent under the splendid pine trees. For more than three hours we strolled along this bank as distinguished as those who occupy boxes at the theatre. Below us the Blackwater looped away un

, both of which are upper waters of the Fraser. Like all the high country through which we had passed this ridge was covered with a monotonous fores

one of those Englishmen who are natural plainsmen. He was always calm, cheerful, and self-contained. He took all worry and danger as a matter of course, and

reek. "Siwash Charley" wished to prospect on the head-waters of the Skeena; and so in almost every case some special excuse was given. When the truth was known, the love of adventure had led all of us to take the telegraph ro

rs had begun to flap around him. He was known as "Big Bill." His companion, Frank, was a sinewy little fellow with no extra flesh at all,-an alert, cheery, and vociferous boy, who made noise enough to scare all the game out of the valley. Nei

d cared for them like a mother. He was small, weazened, hardy as oak, inured to every hardship, and very wise in all things. He had led his fine little train of horses from Chihuahua to Seattle, thence to the Thompson River, joining us at Quesnelle. He was the typical trailer. He spoke in the Missouri fas

persistent in the action of these trains. They pushed on resolutely, grimly, like blind worms following some directing force from within. This peculiarity of action became mor

oon, was silent as oil and very deep, while the bank

our horses were forced to swim. They were very much alarmed and shivered with excitement (this being the first stream that called for swimming), but they crossed in fine style, Ladrone leading, his

from them the tragic story of the death of the Blackwater Indians. "Siwash, he die hy-u (great many). Hy-u die, chil

ded by the white man's wonderful skill, there lies one of the great tragedies of savage life. Very few were left on the

house." I tried to tell them of the great world to the south, and asked them a great many questions to discover how much they knew of the people or the mountains. They knew nothing

m as they were taking off their shoes and stockings to wade through a swift little river, and I realized with a sudden pang of sympathetic pain, h

ne. A dead horse here and there warned us to be careful how we pushed our own burden-bearers. We were deep in the forest, with the pale blue sky filled with clouds showing only in patches overhead. We passed successively from

rments" came in relays. A small gray variety took hold of us while it was warm, and when it became too cold for them, the big, black, "sticky" fellows appeared myst

t at first sight he seemed a part of the forest, like the shaded hole of a tree. He turned out to be a "runner," so to speak, for the ferrymen at Tchincut Crossing, and led us down to

nd, while all about us lay suave slopes clothed with most beautiful pea-vine, just beginning to ripple in the wind, and beyond lay level meadows lit by little ponds filled with wildfowl. There was just forest enough to lend mystery to these meadows, and to shut from our eager gaze the beauties

on its shores. The horses were as happy as their masters, feed

Tchincut Lake. The shallows flickered with the passing of trout, and the natives were busy catching and drying them. As we rode amid the curing she

ish and possibly dried venison and berries. Except at favorable points like Stony Creek, where

e allurement and mystery which the word "savanna" has always had with me. It was like going back to the prairies

TILL

deep in mu

streams that r

t guard in t

s in the sl

e rode righ

clenched han

e frost at

ad tempest

ll so dark.

singing lou

s tame, and

sunshine w

illed the ai

g-star swun

stem, and

o heaven a

TER

M THE

ver sixteen hundred miles away. In my enthusiasm I proposed to camp for a week, but my partner, who was "out for gold instid o' daisies, 'guessed' we'd better be moving." He could not bear to see any one pass u

at fire were raging there, but toward night the wind changed and swept it away. The trail was dusty for the first time, and the flies venomous. Late in the afternoon we pitched camp, setting our tent securely, expecting rain. Before we went to sleep the

re calking a large ferry-boat, but as it was not yet seaworthy and as they had no cable, the horses must swim. I dreaded to see them enter this chill, gray stream, for not o

em with furious outcry and at last Ladrone sprang in and struck for the nearest point opposite, with that intelligence which m

t last the tent was up, the outfit covered with waterproof canvas, the fire blazing and our bread baking. In pitching our camp we had plenty of assistance at the hands of several Indian boys from a near-by village, who hung about, eage

wish of the rising river, and Burton, with a sly twinkle in his e

: "The trail runs for the most part though a semi

mp, which was dismal business; but we made the best of it, do

ey sat about our blazing fire laughing and chattering like a group of girls, discussing

, after looking over my traps: "You boss, y

any splendid things, you are rich. Now, why do yo

the mountains and to get acquainted with the

each other in astonishment. They could not understand why this sudden flood of white people should pour into their country. This I also explained in lame Ch

isely as the Cheyenne lads run horses at sunset in the valley of the Lamedeer. All about the village the grass was rich and sweet, uncropped by any animal, for these poor fishermen do not aspire to the wonderful wealth o

coffee, and so live. How they endure the winters in such wretched houses, it is impossible to say. There was a lone white man living on the site of the old fort, as agent of the Hudson Bay Company.

journey I can't understand. Why, one tramp came in here early in the spring who couldn't speak English, and who left Quesnelle without even a blanket or an axe. Fact! And yet the Lord seems to take care of these fools. You wouldn't believe it, but that fellow picked up an ax

er of a rain on the trail. It transforms it, makes it ferocious. The path that has charmed and wooed, becomes uncertain, treacherous, gloomy, and engulfing. Creeks become rivers, rivers impassable torrents, and marshes bottomless abysses. Pits of quicksan

and chill him, to devour him. Over him he has no roof, under him no pavement. Never for an instant is he free from the pressure of the elements. Sullen st

ut, lighting the woods into radiant greens and purples. Robins and sparrows sang ecstatically, and violets, dandelions, and various kinds of berries were in odorous

t poised on the tip of a black pine in the deep forest. His note was a clear cling-ling, like the ringing of a steel triangle. Chingaling, ching

n the pines where there is no other bird I used to hear his voice. No matter how dark it was, I could always tell when

s of Mexico. He was very difficult to distinguish, for the reason that he sat so high in the tree and was so wary

high and long, followed by another given on a lower key. It was not unlike to the sound made by a boy with a tuning pipe. This, Burton said, was also a familiar s

, and from the farther shore great mountains rose in successive sweeps of dark green foothills. At this time we felt well satisfied w

TLESS

er rivers

er snows

d the cunning

were char

f her forest

of her ledges

ur feet to t

and crawled

and cursed he

h your rain

e have set

of your an

PTE

ROSSING OF

ts. For hundreds of miles on either hand lay an absolutely untracked wilderness. In a land like this the trail always follows a water-course, either ascending or descending it; so for some days we foll

and hurricane. From this tangled desolation I received the suggestion of some verses which I call "The Song of the North Wind." The wind and t

not hurry, and we were forced to watch our horses with unremitting care in order to nurse them over the hard spots, or, rather, the s

Another beast stood abandoned beside the trail, gazing at us reproachfully, infinite pathos in his eyes. He seemed not to have the energy t

ously enough the mosquitoes had quite left us. We overtook and p

wenty-five or thirty families of carrier Indians, and was musical with the plaintive boat-songs of the young people. How long these nati

ic coast range rose like a wall of snow far away to the northwest, while a near-by lake, filling the foreground, reflected the blue rid

terward we wished we had taken the other, for we got one of our horses into the quicksand and worked for more than three hours in the attempt to get him out. A horse is a strange animal. He is counted intelligent, and so he is if he happens to be a bronco or a mule. But in proportion as he is a thoroughbred, he seems to lose power to take care of himself-loses heart. Our Ewe-neck bay

ed hitching the other horses to him in order to drag him out, but as they were saddle-horses, and had never set sho

e to hear the tinkle of a bell on the back trail, for there is no "funny business" about losing a packhorse in the midst of a wild country. Hi

ht sight of a bunch of horses across the valley flat. In this country there were no horses except such as the goldseeker owned,

he old horse out of the pit more dead than alive. We fell to and rubbed his legs to restore circulation.

akes a most woful appeal upon one's sympathies. I went to bed tired out, st

I heard a wolf howl, as though

akes at this point, whereas the old trail cut directly across the elbow, making two crossings. At the point where the new trail led to the right we held a council of war to determine whether to keep to the old tra

e river was out of its banks, and its quicksand flats were exceedingly dangerous to our

covered with mud, brushing in a road over the quicksand for the horses to walk. The Ewe-necked bay was fairly crazy with fear of the mud, and it was necessary to lead him ov

er were they to forage. Ladrone, always faithful, touched my heart by his patience and gentle

UNT GR

east is the g

ll soft on a ca

shuts quick and

deeps of the n

eager, his te

ght through the b

ringing, straig

grin on the faw

a cat on the

oung in the wi

heed with a

booming from

of hunger the wh

sits at the

ss hear with a

s wind-swept vo

ED ON T

ith down-cast mien

e lonely tr

so pite

o look a mi

that we shoul

he struggled

ough th

n shou

ed to the wolf,

lence, as an o

r left him, this

me helpless

urse you,

m the wolves'

is master

PTE

E BULKL

d the horizon. In the foreground a lovely lake lay. On the shore of this lake stood a single Indian shack occupied by a half-dozen children a

talk a little Chinoo

to the ford?"

mebbe-so six, me

an's vague idea

ch the ford? Sit-kum su

ok his

Me go-hyak make

e ford by sunset. I will hurry on and bui

in his arm, he led the way down the trail at a slapping pace. He kept w

inner bark of the black pine. All along the trail were trees from which wa

It was cool and sweet to the tongue, and on a hot day would undoubtedly quench thirst. The boy took it

, and chin being indicated broadly but with truth and decision. Often by some old camp a tree would bear on a planed surface the rude pictographs, so that those coming after could read

s were in bloom, birds were singing, wild roses appeared in miles and in millions, plum and cherry trees were white

the Bulkley about six o'clock, our you

huck. No canoe

the rushing river. Over this log a half-dozen men were passing like ants, wet with sweat,

ect," said one of the young men, as I rod

' positive enjoyment, with no sense of being in a sub-arctic country. We could hardly convince ourselves that we were in latitude 54. The only peculiarity which I never quite forgot was the extreme length of the day. At 10.30 at night it

ever in the west, but on our right a group of other giants assembled, white and stern. A part of the time we threaded our way through fire-devastated fo

little black flies. They were small, but resembled our common house flies in shape, and were exceedingly venomous. They filled the horses' ears, and their sting prod

side to side with weakness. There was no more smiling on their faces. One man, the smaller, had the countenance of a wolf, pinched in round the nose. His bony jaw was thrust forward resolutely.

The tall man, with a look of wistful sadness l

you off f

ome beans and a mer

ng brooks rushing from the mountain's side. Flowers increased; the days grew warmer; it began to feel like summer. The mountains grew ever mightier, looming cloudlike at sunset, bearing glaciers on their shoulders. We were almost completely happy-but alas, the mosquitoes! Their hum silenced the songs of the bird

abandoned his fellow-traveller. This angered me, and I was minded to cast the little sneak out of camp, but his pinched and hungry face helped me

left. He gorged himself like a wolf. He fairly snapped the food down his throat. The tall man, by great effort, contrived to display some knowledge of better manners. As they ate,

n the morning till sunrise. We walk late in the evening-till nine or ten-and then sit in the smoke till it gets cold enough to drive

during the late r

er a fir tree by the trail and dried off. The mosquitoes did

m pull through. He had gone to the Caribou mines to find work, and, failing, had pushed on toward Hazleton with a dim hope of working his way to Teslin Lake

comical wink. We fed him staples-beans, graham bread, and coffee-and he slowly but surely reached the bottom

bs with the water dripping from their ragged garments. They camped at night beneath the firs (for the ground is always dry under a fir), where a fire is easily built. There they hung over the flame, drying their clothing and their rapidly weakening shoes. The mosquitoes swarmed upon them bloodily in the shelter and warmth of the trees, for they had no netting or tent. Their meals w

its like mine. From such as I, they "rustled food" and clothing. The small man did not even thank us for the meal; he sat himself down for a smoke and communed with hi

was not much bigger than a sachet-bag, but we gave them some

days were at their maximum, the sun set shortly after eight, but it was light until nearly eleven. At midday the sun was fairly hot, but the wind swept down from the mountains cool and refreshing. I shall not soon forget those

back track." As I went out to round up the horses, "Major Grunt" was nowhere to be found. He had strayed from the bunch and we inferred had started back over the

e horse so long as he kept to the trail, but the tramper's report was positive-no h

s, but also for the reason that he had a rope attached to his neck and I was

and weak with hunger, and his clothes hung in tatters. He had just about reached the limit of his courage, and though we were u

thout him. This losing of a horse is one of the accidents which make the trail so uncertain. We were exceedingly anxious to get on. There wa

rt, snorted, wheeled madly, stamped, shook their heads, and flung themselves again and again on the ground, giving every evidence of the most terrible suffering. "If t

nce and listen to the drumming of their frantic feet on the turf as they battled against their

ard work to catch 'em and bring 'em back. However, there's no use worrying. The mosquitoes would eat us alive if we went out now.

ck trail till they reached an open hillside, and had climbed to the very edge of the timber.

lying flat on his side hidden among the fallen tree trunks, there to struggle and starve,

, quite secure from mosquitoes, and surrounded by the curious natives, who showed us where to find wood and water, and brought us the most beautiful spring salmon, and potatoes so tender and fine that the skin could be rubbed from

the man who would bring him to me. They all listened attentively, filled with joy at a chance to earn so much money. At last the chief man of the village

, digesting our bountiful meal of salmon and potatoes, and mending up our c

ow, who gave a grim report of the trail beyond. He said: "Nobody knows anything about that trail. Jim Deacon, the head-man of our party when we left Hazleton, was only about seventy mile

r could determine, this country offers every inducement to prospectors. It is possible to grow potatoes, hay, and oats, together with various small

unt," well as ever, but a little sullen. He had taken the back trail till he came to a narrow and insecure bridge. There he had turned up the stream, going dee

FEAR TH

the force

sh of t

hem and f

vage

nd cold lik

like t

your hands

f your che

agged and wea

l walk li

PTE

MIDWAY O

e advice of the road-gang we crossed the frail suspension bridge (which the Indians had most ingeniously constructed out of logs and piec

upon great groves of red cedar under which the trail ran very muddy and very slippery by reason of the hard roots of the cedars which never decay. Creeks

ds on the high bank overhanging the roaring river just before it empties into the Skeena. Here

y swift and deep and cold. Rival Indian ferry companies bid for our custom, each

idea of the proper line of grace and speed. They were really beautiful and sat the water almost as gracefully as the birch-bark canoe of the Chippewas. At each end they rose into a sort of neck, which t

waters, they danced on the waves like leaves, and the boatmen bent t

or fear, or enthusiasm. These little people chattered and whooped at each other like monkeys. Upon hearing them for the fi

er-swing her, dog-gone ye-SWING HER! Now straight-keep her straight! Can't ye see that edd

rats, we're a makin' it. Head her toward that bush

have strained every muscle till his bones cracked, b

ter. Its momentum was terrific. In crossing, the boatmen were obliged to pole their canoes far up beyond the point at which they meant to land; then, at the word, they swung into the rushing current and pulled like fiends for the opposite shore. Their br

na, which was a majestic flood at this point. There were some ten or fifteen outfits camped in and about the village, resting and getting ready for the last half of the trail. Som

it had not been travelled in seventeen years, except by the Indians on foot with their p

ow skilfully every detail with regard to the last half of the trail had been slur

en over the trail, or who can give you any information concerning it." He furthermore said, "A large number of these fellows who

It was a veritable little city of the dead, with streets of tiny, gayly painted little houses in which the silent and motionless ones had been laid in their last sleep. Each tomb was a shelter, a roof, and a tomb, and

n all this. They are so poor, their lives are so bare of comforts, that the consecration of these articles to the dead seemed a greater sacrifice than we, who count ourselves civilized, would make. Each chair, or table, or coat, or pair of shoes, costs many skins. The set of furniture meant many hard journey

the Skeena, were reported passing the wharf at the post. The wife of a retired Indian agent, who claimed to have been over the route many years ago, was inte

an who came riding by our camp.

days, maybe so thirty da

? Hy-u muc

e graver. "Ha-lo muck-a-muck (no feed). Long time no

h of it. This man has no reason for lying. We need

n. Many of the goldseekers determined to "quit." They sold their horses as best they could to the Indians (who were glad to buy the

they could be seen in groups about the village discussing ways and means. Quarrels broke out, and parties disbanded in discouragement and bitterness. The road to the golden river seemed to grow longer, and the precious sand more elusive, from day to

ck and was being helped to food by some citizens in the town for whom he was doing

that which is now to follow. My advice to you is to stay right where you are until the next Hudson Bay steamer comes by, then go to the captain and tell him just how you are situated, and ask him to carry you down to the coast. Yo

and he looked aggrieved. "But what ca

xpect men who are already short of grub to feed and take care of you. There's a chance for you to

l I had said that he would attempt to rustle a little grub and make his start on the trail. Th

re never in a hurry and were not afraid. They got out of our way with the least possible exertion, looking meekly reproachful or snarling threateningly at us. They were ever watchful. No matter how apparently deep their slumber, they saw every falling cru

e us. Every ounce of superfluous weight, every tool, every article not absolutely essential, was discarded and its place filled with

SH G

r tiny gayly

small dead peopl

nknown, their

e battles lo

days and w

still, will

in dark as

re the r

d loved, and to

do, and a

vail? we

as shapeles

P, BRA

e on, the ci

ent hors

ss the frost

is gray

cry rings sha

ires smou

lies a sha

the moun

Billy, lin

gray with

way, we c

-ak, bra

d miles beh

y more

and mire on

y feet m

one, with

es swing

n lead, the

nt plodd

kskin, bra

un is

d loon

away!

PTE

G THE B

rably poor, and the hosts of howling, hungry dogs made each day more distressing. The mountains remai

ating of drums. Dogs joined with the mourning of the people with cries of almost human anguish, to which the beat of the passionless drum added solemn

oman uttering in wailing; chant the most piercing agony of despairing love. It ceased as the sun arose and was heard no more. It was dif

ldest of all the rivers we had yet seen. We crossed the main river just above the point at which the west fork enters. The horses were obliged to swim nearly half a mile, and some of them would not have reached the other shore h

and active. It looped away in most splendid curves, through opulent bottom lands, filled with wild roses, geranium plants, and berry blooms. Openings alte

shes, poplars, pines, all growth was amazingly luxuriant. The trail was an Indian path, gra

nkling, and from sparkling fires, thin columns of smoke arose. Some of the young men were bathing, while others were washing their shirts in the sunny stream. There was a cheerful sound of whis

loaded with water, and had we not been well clothed in waterproof, we should have been drenched to the bone. We rode for four hours

d a monstrous big salmon up the hill to sell to us, but we had more fish than we could eat, and were forced to decline. There was a beautiful spring just back of the cabin, and the old man seemed to take pleasure in having us get our water from it. Neith

better camp. It is thirty miles from here to feed." To this I had merely nodded, giving it little attention; but now as we sat around our campfire, Burton brought the matter up again: "If it is

ust talking for our spec

id he got his pointer from the mule train ahead of us. Feed is g

iant pea-vine and bluejoint into a thirty-mile stretch of country where noth

f fresh salmon, and were not troubled except with the thought of the mud which would result from this rainstorm. We were falling steadily behi

kept to his house all day, not visiting us. It is probable that he was a Catholic. The dogs came about us occas

could not afford to spend another day waiting in the rain. It was gloomy business in camp,

under our horses' hoofs, the sky was gray and drizzled moisture, and as we rose we plunged into ever deepening forests. We left behind us all hazel bushes, alders

where no blade of grass grew, and we pushed on desperately, on and on, hour after hour. We began to suffer with the horses, being hungry and cold ourselves. We plunged into bottomless mudholes, slid down slippery slopes of slat

t of cap or wide cloth band went across his head, concealing his forehead. His huge pack loomed over his sh

Kla-how-ya," in answer to my, "Kla-how-ya six," which is to say, "How are you, friend?" He smiled, pointed to his pack, and said, "Hy-u skin." His season had been successful and he was going now to sel

ing a pack that would test the strength of a powerful white man. He, too, threw off his load and at a word from

the head-waters of the Nasse, they said. They could speak but little Chinook and no English at all. When I asked in Chinook, "How far is it to feed for our horses?" the woman looked firs

n spoke to them, his voice was gentle and encouraging. At the word they all took up the line of march and went off down the hill toward the Hud

arching every ravine and every slope for a feed; but only ferns and strange green poisonous plants could be seen. We were angling up the side of the great ridge which separated the west

here a small stream descended into a little flat marsh and morass. This had been used as a camping-place b

ole, and once through this they entered upon a quaking bog, out of which grew tufts of grass which had been gnawed to the roots by the animals which had preceded them; only a rank bottom of dead leaves of last year's growth was left for our tir

r thoughts were on the horses rather than upon ourselves. We soon had a fire going

mp on the trail. My bed was dry and warm, but I could not forget our

D OF T

he sun an

. Let it bla

with heat-

the blood o

f the plai

am I. My e

low lines.

airie lan

oom of the

arks of the mo

and poison

long for the r

k of the f

HE G

in long

am of th

st wind sing

d unceasin

k grass wallo

ns' ring daz

y a silver

g steel arc

gay gulls a

kes and fall

the deeps of

row's-foot

the lee of

g like walt

shrill creak o

of the lark

lains of my

winds and

-my mist-c

n the heart o

sp and the g

hrough my da

dows in dre

the deeps of

the light o

TER

ORESTS OF TH

on, for food was to be had only in the valley, whose blue and white walls we could see far ahead of us. After nearly six hours' travel we came out of the forest, out i

w was magnificent, but the land seemed empty and silent except of mosquitoes, of which there were uncounted millions. On our right

the following morning, several outfits came trailing down into the valley, glad as we had been of the sp

there's no feed. And as near's I can find out we're in fer hell'

ined little creature, and clearly in command of the boat, and very efficient. It was no child's play to put the light canoe across such a stream, but the old man, with much shouting and under command of the girl, succeeded in crossing six times, carrying us and our baggage. As w

n to her father. Up to that moment she had been very shy and rather sullen, but my present seemed to change her opinion of us, and she

an ambiguous scrawl to the effect that feed was to be very scarce for a long, long way, and that we should feed our horses before going forward.

threatened, and as it was late and no feed promised, I determined to camp. Turning to the right down a tremendously steep path (the hors

er my shoulder, to show them how gentle he was, but they only smiled and laughed as much as to say, "Yes, that is all right for you, but we are afraid." They were all very good-looking, smiling folk, but poorly dressed. They seemed eager to show us where the best grass grew,

most no English, it was difficult to converse with them. They had lost the sign language or seemed not to use it. Their village was built here because the ca?on below offered a capital place for fishing and

t, and we soon had a fire going in our little stove, which was the amazement and delight o

had helped to ferry us across the Kuldo came dow

father, who assured me he was the ty-ee (b

Our desire to be friendly was deeply appreciated by these poor people, and our wish to do them good was greater than our means. The way was long be

sed me. Moreover, I was lame in every joint from the toil of crossing rivers, climbing steep hills, and dragging at cin

and continued silent. It was a wilderness of firs and spruce pines. It was like a forest of bronze. Nothing but a few rose bushes and some leek-like plants rose from the

roar. On every side cold and white and pitiless the

ange at the west there are few living things, and these few necessarily centre in the warm openings on the banks o

Our rate of speed was very low. One of our horses became very weak and ill, evidently pois

th great care of our horses till we reached a little meadow at the summit, very tired and disheartened, for the view showed only other peaks and endless waves of spruce and fir. We rode on un

Skeena, where only an occasional bunch of bluejoint could be found. The constant strain of watching the horses and guiding them through the mud began to tell on us both. There was now no moment of ease, no hour of enjoyment. We

out rest. But at last, just as night began to fall, we came upon a splendid patch of bluejoint, knee-deep and rich. It was high on the mountain side, on a slope so steep that the horses could not lie down, so st

t the Skeena Val

," I replied, "and I'm glad of it. I neve

ed steadily at the bunch of leaves which grew at the top of the twisted stalk. Again we plunged down into the cold green forest, following a stream whose current ran to the northeast. This brought us once again to the bank of the dreaded Skeena. The trail was "pu

ound a bunch of grass, no matter if it were not bigger than a broom, w

ch moment in danger of leaving a horse behind. I walked nearly all day, for it was torture to me as well as to Ladrone to ride him over such a trail. Three of our horses now showed signs of poisoning, two of them walked with a sprawlin

n-and then I noticed a weakness in his limbs. I dismounted and examined him carefully. He, too, was poisoned and attacked by spasms. It was a sorrowful thing to see my proud gray reduced to this con

hwest. We raised a shout of joy, for it seemed this must be a branch of the Nasse. If so, we were surely out of the clutches of the Skeena. This bottom was the first dry and level ground we had seen s

fter our long toilsome stay in the sub-aqueous gloom of the Skeen

n the warm dry sward to let the glorious sun soak into his blood. It was a joyous thing to us to see the faithful ones revelling in the healing sunlight, their

we were on a divide, and to our minds could be no other than the head-waters of the Nasse

ITHFUL

certain dea

r way through

neath the no

on us who

and we betr

y look to

crumbles t

e hardly g

line u

ISTLIN

cold and bo

y golden

is home aga

ouds he sits

sun about

below in s

cat may fin

d corsair

, is his

pink snows

s little o

lls out each

safe with

winter sto

young ones t

PTE

T STIKEE

acks and taking long strides. They were "hitting the high places in the scenery," and seemed to be entirely absorbed in the work. I hailed them and

e journey, almost the only returning footsteps, and were able to give us a little information

the caribou and the moose were so thick you couldn't miss 'em. We've been forty miles up the trail. It's all a climb, and the very worst yet. You'll come finally to a high snowy di

y; we're in Br

e? On wha

are camped one of the head-waters of the Nasse; but we're not on the Telegr

-gang ahead of us haven't left a single s

n't write," sa

now where they are at

xactly the way

ny outfits a

get through. They're all getting short of grub and losing a good many horses. You'll have to work

heir handsome dogs, and we lined up once more with stern faces, knowing now that a terrible trail for at least one hundred

ts stood, and shirts were flapping from the limbs of near-by willows. The owners were "The Man from Chihuahua," his partner, the blacksmith, and the two young men from Manchester, New Hampshire, who had started fro

d us with j

s! Where ye thin

zy," repli

k it," s

e old man. He was in bad humor on account of his horses, two of which were suff

soberly. "Have you any

the head-water

the Teleg

out we're away to the right

way," said the old fellow, as he ran his grimy forefinger over the red line which represented the trail. "We'

ast, but our course therea

ry before we get in," said the old trailer. "I'd like to camp here for a few days and feed up my horses, but it ain't s

ink of the trai

t that big divide hell? Did ye ever see the beat of that fer a barren? No more grass than a cellar. Might as well camp in a

shy and delicate of speech to do it justice, and we led him

rail into shape-what have they done? You'd think th

h our travelling companions packed up and moved out the next morning. We felt

nts and the arch had gone out of his neck, while faithful Bill, who never murmured or complained, had a glassy stare in his eyes, the lingering effects of poisoning. The wind rose in the afternoon, bringing to us a sound of moaning tree-tops, and somehow it see

ld fishing huts filled with curious things,-skins, toboggans, dog-collars, cedar ropes, and many other traps of small value to anybody. Most curious of all we found some flint-lock muskets made exactly on th

r clothing and hung it up to dry, beat the mud out of our towels, and so made ready for the onward march. We

CL

mountains the

orms as a mot

se from their

motion they c

ombre, they c

rags of the pea

aiting, and

T STIKEE

tains based in

and cold. A l

g voices dro

, and fill the

ath. The peaks a

bove are gr

s cleave thei

ess forests

ean's far-off

PTE

LD GREEN

ountains, and flows in a south-westerly direction, breaking through the c

ss from the watershed of the Nasse to the east fork of the Iskoot, on which those far-shining prairies were said to lie, with their f

d all day, both of us walking, leading our horses, with all our goods distributed with great care over the six horses. It was a beautiful day overhead-that was the only compensation. We were sweaty, eaten by flies and mosquitoe

here camped in the gloom of the mossy and poisonous forest. By hard and persistent work we ticked off nearly fifteen miles

o go through the mud. Old Ladrone walking behind me groaned with dismay every time we came to one of th

oaning, struggling through. Ladrone, seeing me walk a log by the side of the trail, would sometimes follow me as deftly as a cat. He seemed to think his right to avoid th

emain in this forest," said Burton. "We must get above timber where the sun shines to get any feed for our hor

ner; he was always ready to proceed, his vo

approach us until we slumped along in the running water. At last we burst out into the light above timber line. Around us porcupines galloped, and whistling marmots signalled with shrill vehemence. We were weak with fatigue and wet with icy water to the knees, but we pushe

astonishment at the inexplicable coming of these strange creatures. The snow in the gullies had a curious bloody line which I could not account for. A little bird high up here utt

A country unmapped, unsurveyed, and unprospected. A region which had known only an occasional Indian hunter or trapper with his load of furs on his way down to the river and

the snowfields, down to grass and water. Not much more than forty minutes later we came out upon a comparatively level spot of earth where grass was fairly good, and where the wind-twisted stunted pines grew in clumps large enou

tanding tremendous steeps and endless mudholes mid-leg

unger, we held ourselves in check until we had that bird roasted to a turn. I shall never experience greater relief

een the Skeena and the Stikeen. The Manchester boys reported finding some very good pieces of quartz on the hills, and they

rst place, you couldn't work fer mor'n 'bout three months in the year, and it 'ud take ye the other nine

he other prospectors, and I did not hear that

reature with a tawny, bristling mane, I took to be a porcupine. Next in size were the giant whistlers, who sat up like old men and signalled, like one boy to another. And last

n the matted patches of willow. There were a great many of them, and they helped out our monotonous diet very opportunely. They moved about in pairs, the cock very loyal to the hen in time of danger; but not even this

t, gray clouds crushed against the divide behind us, flinging themselves in rage against the rocks like hungry vultures baffled i

ed drizzles of rain over us. Later the clouds thickened, the sky became completely overcast, and my exultation changed to dismay, and we camped at night as desolate as e

y and every day, no matter what the sky or trail might be. Going over our food carefully that night, we calculated that we had enough to last us ten da

dly down through dwarf pines, down into endless forests of gloom again. We had splashed, slipped, and tumbled down the trail to this point with three horses weak and sick. The rain had increased, and all the brightness of the morning on the high mou

for some let-up to the incessant downpour. We discussed the situation. I said: "Now, if the stream in the ca?on below us runs to the left, it will be

bring in the other horses and put them close to the fire under the big branches of the fir tree. It was deeply pathetic to watch the poor worn animals, all life and spi

UTE

e burning

owed tep

way a sin

rough t

hadow of a l

ed poni

hrobbing with th

pt as

clump of sc

wail f

repetition

choly

sweet, so

over'

upon its sob

song of t

ed cry fore

ind's wi

voice of an

e! a

the winds fo

he p

m the agoni

terna

thin its si

eath

gh it be by s

he bro

agic, sad thou

ort re

xiled people o

e the

night the st

the

tens, leans to

waters

lithe and

brow

other joys se

or m

e old and h

to

lies the wh

of e

to me that

s so

s sky and

and d

ls me as the

his

ad, sunny, b

as h

ering sky uplif

the

far-off sno

hrough

I hear the flut

ver's

listening, l

y the

L'S

awling, hat

twisted l

ork a mischie

t menace, i

and a veno

green and

ng of shade

feet it wi

catch all f

path to sk

LD GREEN

untains where the sa

uds were gr

ishing ea

waved, where

orses starv

ld green

ld green

ew but mos

ed and slud

r horses b

ipped, slid

n and wil

cold gree

PTE

ING OF T

ack up, and with such cheer as we could called out, "Li

ong on my gray horse, for the trail there allowed me to ride, I passed a man seated gloomily at the mouth of

d, "The N

xpect to

" he r

of almost sullen gravity. They were not disposed to joke with me, and

the gloom of the others. We were still in the valley of the inexorable Skeena. It could be nothing else; this tremendous stream running to our righ

which we joyfully turned our horses. When they had filled their stomachs, we packed up and pushed on about two

n on the banks of the river, I said: "I wonder why those men

come by to whack-up with 'em. One of the fellows came out and talked with m

hat I had taken for sullenness was the dejection of despair. The way wa

stretched behind us and before us. We were still high in the mountains, and the country was less wooded and more open. But we left this beautiful spot and entered again on a morass. It was a day of torture to man and beast. The land

t of the time "The Man from Chihuahua" took the lead, with his fine strong bays. If a horse got down we all sw

ttle rivulets. Occasionally a horse went down into a hole and had to be "snailed out," and we were wet and covered with mud all day. It was a new sort of trail an

ous indeed, and made our ears swell up enormously-the itching and burning was well-nigh intolerable. We saw no life at all save one grouse hen guarding her young. A paradise for game it seemed, but no game. A beautiful grassy, marshy, and empty land. We passed over one low divide after another with immense snowy peaks

of having left the Skeena forever. One day we passed over a beautiful little spot of dry ground, which filled us with delight; it seemed as though we had reached the prairies of the pamphlets. We camped there

erable small streams which fell away into the Iskoot on the left, the Stikeen on the north, the Skeena on the east and south. These valleys were covered with grass and moss in

eary drivers. More than one of them could "smell the salt water." In imagination they saw this bird following the steamer up the Stike

served also a sort of crocus and some cheery little buttercups. The ride would have been magnificent had it not been for the spongy, sloppy marsh through which our horses toiled. As it was, we felt a certain breadth and grandeur in it surpassing anything we had hitherto seen. Our three outfits with

the many forks of the great Stikeen River. Marmots and a sort of little prairie dog continued plentif

the north slope, and was oozy and slippery with the melting snow. It dropped in short zigzags down through a grove of tangled, gnarled, and savage cedars and pines, whose roots were like iron and filled with spurs that were sharp as chisels. The horses, sliding upon their haunches and unabl

st. After descending for some hours we took a trail which branched sharply to the northeast, and climbed hea

all the boys were fairly jubilant. "This would b

the empty land seemed left behind. We went to sleep with the sound of a near-by mounta

escended again to the aspens and clumps of wild roses. It was good to see their lovely faces once more after our long stay in the wild, cold valleys of the upper lands. The whole country seemed drier, a

assaults upon the road-gang. Others were pathetic inquiries: "Where in hell are we?"-"How is this for a prairie route?"-"What river is

ossoms starred the sunny slopes. The grass was dry and ripe, and the horses did not relish it after their long stay in the juicy meadows above. We had been wet e

grub was getting very light, which was a good thing for the horses; but we had a

n the trip again, and had it not been for the sores on our horses' feet and our scant larder we should have been quite at ease. Our course now lay parallel to a range of peaks on our right, which we fi

LONG

d miles of

here the still

walked a tip-t

ess aspen see

aisles of

ward mountain

orever shine

inds and w

own from hillsides

firs; but on

kelet bound

clouds refle

lonely were, so

s bright as b

pine branch

s vivid th

the great d

valleys far

ned cloudless

swept cl

aciers grind th

e moose's

igh on the y

t clamor o

ew grimmer

months stretc

kept, not

iling watc

ckoning of sea

seemed the

h brought f

ber tempests s

ild and lo

id loon's

on the mou

was silent

ugh sunless

k moss our

ly there for m

seemed lo

by rocks; by

nward, stif

ruised, and

sloughs to r

e rode righ

clenched hands

winds of

ad torrent

rode, so ha

ondemned by

til the mo

k forever

en all is p

ountain's

hear again

the foam-whit

cede. The jo

s of great N

get all nee

journey gro

TING OF

long in mo

leak, and br

moss and wi

wings the

n on our d

met us, w

o girlish f

e sun had ma

TER

ND THE VULTU

d the third south fork. On a broken paddle stuck in the sand we found this notice: "The trail crosses here

our destination, and began once more to calculate on the l

and other things which our friends the Manchester boys needed, while they were able to spare us a little flour. There was a tacit agreement that we should travel together and stand together. Accordingly we began to plan fo

his condition. He had been out of food for some days, and had been living on squirrels, ground-hogs, and such other small deer as he could kill and roast along his way. He brought word of considerable suff

offee and beans, he

raze to "get somewhere where gold is." He broke off suddenly in the midst of his story to exclaim with great energy: "I want

oing to find the gold up here

to his cooking. He told of his hard experiences, with pride and joy, and said

and everything was in order. "I haven't time to turn the edges of the patch under," he went on. "It ought to be done-you can't make a durable patch unless you do. This 'housewife' my wife made me when we was first married. I was peddlin' then in eastern Oregon. If it ha

meal, and as the small man put it away he chirped and chuckled like a cricket. His thanks were mere words, his voice was calm. He accepted our aid as a matter of course. No perfectly reasonable man would ever take s

was about to depart I gave him a letter to post and a half-dollar to pay postage. My name was written on the corner o

ing very short of provisions and were even then on rations. "I think you'll overtake the Borland outfit," I said. "If you don't, and you need help, camp by the ro

d him through a journey that appalled old packers with tents, plenty of grub, and good horses. To me he was simply a strongly acc

much as a buckle. Some of our poor lame horses had a hard struggle in the icy current. At about 4 P.M. we were able to line up in the trail on the opposite side. We pressed on up to the higher valleys in hopes of finding better feed, and camped in the rain about two miles from the ford. The wind c

of fine drops on our tent roof. The old man cursed the weather most eloquently, expressing the genera

wing. Hitching those beside the trail, I returned to find Burton seated beside the lame horse, which could

is old fellow is out of the race. It is a question now either of leaving him beside

aid, "It's going to be pretty hard li

done. You remember that horse back there with a hole in his flank and his head flung up? We mustn't leave this old fellow to be a pr

nd sick and I believed it better to put him

d I. "Your hands are already im

"All right. Lead him

w and patient endurance. With some urging he followed me into the thicket a little aside from the trail. Turning away I mounted Ladrone in order that I might not see what happened. There was a crack of a rifle in the bush-the sound of a heavy body falling, and a moment later Burton returned with a coiled rope in his hand and a look of trouble on his face

ast into a grassy country and to a series of small lakes, which were undoubtedly the source of the second fork of the Stikeen. But as we had lost so much time during the day, we pu

our bacon reduced to the last shred. We had come to expect rain every day of our lives, and were feeling a little the effects of our scanty diet of bread and bacon-h

, and bringing into view an immense blue ca?on far ahead of us. "There lies the Stikeen," I called to Burton. "We're on the second south f

e feed was very good. We were forced to plod on and on until we at last descended into the valley of a little stream which cross

ellow we had seen once or twice on the trail, came by with a very sour visage. He went into camp near, and came over to see us. He said:

Telegraph Creek; I've kept a careful diary of our travel. If we've passed over the Dease Lake Trail, which is prob

m think; but it gave him a great deal of co

hings seemed to assemble like vultures to do us harm. The world was a grim place that day. It was a question whether we were not still on the third south fork instead of the second

ere sure to have a hard time if such weather continued.

little conversation even between partner and myself. For many days we had moved in perfect silence for the most part, though no gloom or sullenness appeared in Burton's face. We wer

VU

low and watc

bare, his ey

fits the sta

feast where

g in ash

till he sca

kingly on

ing, in ca

bark on vi

purple storm

s neighbor

d neck in m

is slow, con

ot red ligh

oudland-yet a

PFI

Pop

ves like a

inds of summe

feeding a f

ngent pop

uttering

old toward the

r lad; "I kno

inbow show

o camping, an

gold, when

age

day draws

lain a man a

n odorous sag

te like a f

sun atop,

ess, windless

s under a gre

d snaps at a

s void as a

less sky has

gaunt and sh

ildhood rive

hides at the

er speaks with

till I find-o

lifts his clen

hind him lo

round of a f

P

ends in a b

ountains col

varice, still

d ca?ons fo

e old, and

he snows aro

over a fir

heering; to

ng peaks he l

ave a boy wit

ame, than al

red gold,

loveless, ch

morning l

TER

T THE

of the Stikeen River. Our hearts thrilled with pleasure as we looked far over the deep blue and pu

sky filled with glowing clouds flooded with tender light. The bloom of fireweed almost concealed the devastation of flame

be crossed, and the snow was close at hand. Across this valley an eagle might sweep with joy, but the pack trains must crawl in mud and mire through long hours of

ca?on. We had ridden all the morning in a pelting rain, slashed by wet trees, plunging through bogs and sliding down ravin

reason of the heavy rains, a swift and terrible flood, impossible to swim. Men were camped all along the bank, out of food like ourselves, and ragged and worn and weary. They had formed a little street of camps. Borland, the leader

ned the little village. Borland said: "We've been here for a day and a half, tryin' to induce that damn fe

on the bank (some ten or fifteen of

tles crawled down the zigzag trail to the ferry-boat, and began bailing her out. Ultimately three men, sweating, scared, and tremulous, swung a clumsy scow upon the sand at our feet. It was no child's play to cross that stream. Together with one of "The Little Dutchmen,

and flour at ten cents, and laden with these necessaries hurried back to the hungry hordes on the opposite side of the

he afternoon we heard far down the river a steamer whistling for Telegraph Creek, and everybody began packing truck down to the river where the boat was expected to land. Word was sent bac

to the river bank, but we buckled to it hard, and in the cour

, and each of us felt in his pocket to see how many dollars he had left. The steamboat company had us between fire and water and could cha

o pay them. However, Borland and I, acting as committee, brought such pressure to bear upon the purser that he "threw in" a dinner, and there was a joyous rush for the table when this good news was announced. For the first time in nearly three months we were able to sit down to a fairly good meal with clean nice tableware, with pie and pudd

cool dusk. As we came off the boat with our horses we were met by a crowd of cynical loafers who called to us out of the dark,

was too late to move farther that night. We fed our beasts upon hay at five cents a pou

find, it came to light as a little town of tents and shanties, filled with men who had practically given up the Teslin Lake Route as a bad job. The

. The long trail was over. No more mud, rocks, stumps, and roots for Ladrone. Away the other poor animals streamed down the trail, many of them

in water on barren marshes or crowding round the fire chilled and weak, in endless rain. If our faces looked haggard and worn, it was because of the never ending anxiety concerning the faithful animals who trust

It ceased to interest me. It had almost no wild animal life, which I love to hear and see. Its lakes and rivers were for the most part cold and sullen, and its forests s

used again for that purpose. Should mines develop on the high divides between the Skeena, Iskoot, and Stikee

STEP IN

ve forth fro

oss the dese

l have no p

ife," men he

ght on. Th

n plain grew

o taunt and

ht on and f

rode a well

ven in th

cursed in

footprint

drew the sw

g from his

nd silently-

ned as i

ll seize you

ness-fear s

teach you wi

de on as

abin by a so

n ca?ons da

e waters ca

of woman br

slender l

had lived

ca?on's noi

t moved him

him of women

lken robes, wi

f those who

yed laughter

hundred vi

mother's kn

ick-knitted

with him in

wife, in b

y from chai

h apples i

h sweet dom

is curse ha

ere his no

ca?on col

little he

PTE

EKERS' CAM

Hudson Bay trading-post at the head of navigation on the Stikeen River, but during April and May it had been turned int

owed another, the government road had been abandoned, the pack trail had proved a menace, and as a result the camp had thinned away, a

ed only half done. There remained more than one hundred and seventy miles of pack trail befo

ch a year's provision for each man must be carried. Food was reported to be "a dollar a pound" at Teslin Lake and

ple eager to get away. Everybody seemed studying the problem of what to do and how to do it. Some were for going to the head-waters of the Pelly, others

h flapped and quivered in the sounding southern wind, we discussed the question of future action. I determined to leave him here with

eeks behind my schedule, the trail was reported to be bad, and the water in the Hotalinqua very low, making boating slow and haza

te north, out of which the snows would soon begin to sweep. It took courage to set face into that wild land with winter coming on, and yet many of the

he sun went down. Around us on every side the mountain peaks cut the sky ke

enjoyment. We were all living very high, with plenty of berries and an occasional

The rain ceased at last and the days grew very pleasant with the wind again in the south, roaring up the river all day long with great power, reminding me of th

getting drunk, but mainly they were too serious-minded to waste time or substance. Some of them had expended their last dollar on the trail and were forced to sell their horses for money to take them out of the country. Some of the partnerships

like his own proud self. As I went out to see him he came up to me to be curried and nosed about me, begging for salt. His trust in me made him doubly dea

e all ran to the bank to see her struggle with the current, gaining headway only inch by inch. She was a small stern-wheeler, not unlike the boats which run on the upper Missouri. We all followed her down

ame over to see me, and after a few words of greeting said quietly, but with feeling, "I am glad you've come, it was so lonesome here." We were very busy, but I think we were reasonably kind to hi

inging from the crosstree of the tent, a ghastly corpse. There was something inexplicable in the deed. No one could account for it. He seemed not t

of the river." It contained also a message to his wife and children in the States. There were tragic splashes of red o

e end of the

he tail of a

hapter gra

ost to the

or days on

ight on the w

angs in the m

ape by the

ght as mine, and he had gained some part of his firm, proud, leaping walk. He had confidence in the earth once more.

we saddled up for the last time he stood waiting. The horses had fared together for ninety days. They had "lin

" and lastly "Nibbles," the pony. For the last time they were to follow their swift gray lea

were patiently waiting their master's signal. Never again would they set eyes on the stately gray leader

aw them move away on their last trail. At bottom the end of every horse is tragic. Death comes sooner or later, but death here in this country, so cold and bleak and pitiless to all animals, seems somehow closer, more inevitable, more cruel, and flings over every animal th

. I looked up at the shining green and white mountains and they allured me still, notwithstanding all the toil and discomfort of the journey just completed. The wind fr

L OF TH

ined by the to

and kno

nce again the

oud city

my hand to the

my flesh t

r and trail

he most primitiv

e wild with the st

is free

thwart me, no

the ste

live these jo

he most primitiv

PTE

EWS AT

had determined to quit or to try some other way in; and at last the time had come for me to say good-by to Burton and all those who had

, but only strangers made reply. After stowing him safely away and giv

r a few moments in silence, with his hands folded behind his back, then,

ss the rail of the boat between some ten or fifteen

oys; see yo

yet," called Bill

you strike it!

ou do the sam

y, I confess to a little dimness of the eyes. I thought of the hardships toward which my

ast very dangerous for a heavy boat such as the Strathcona was. We were forced to lay by at last, some fifty miles down, on acc

s are said to be a sort of brown fishing bear of enormous bulk, as large as polar bears, and when the salmon are spawning in the upper waters of the coast rivers, they become so fat they can hardly mov

side. One tremendous river of ice came down on our right, presenting a face wall apparently hundreds of feet in height an

im ashore except by means of another steamer. However, all things worked together to bring us safely through, and in the afternoon of the second day we entered an utterly different world-the warm, wet coast country. The air was moist, the grasses and tall ferns were luxuriant, and the f

e of by the Hudson Bay Company. He was still a Canadian horse and so must remain upon the w

ell rose from the bay as the tide went out, a seal bawled in the distance, fishes flopped about in the pools beneath me, and a man playing a violin somewhere in the village added a melancholy note. I coul

pled with the customs man and secured the papers which made Ladrone an American horse, free to eat grass wherever it could be fou

en donkeys. Therefore it was necessary for Ladrone to walk the perilous wooden sidewalks after me. This

man stopped me on the street and asked me where I was taking "T'old 'orse." I told him I had already ridden him over a thousand miles and now he was t

t. At last she said, pointing to the other side of the village, "Over there muck-a-muck, hy-u m

e sight of this great beast feeding beside the walk that they burst into loud outcry and ran desperatel

ay horse and his owner. I furnished a splendid topic for

ch ignominious return from a fruitless trip on which they had started with so much elation, and yet they hesitated about attempting any further adventure to the north, mainly because their horses had sold for so litt

e White Pass Railway in hundreds, and a number of the hands on the steamer herself had deserted under the excitement. Mingling with the passengers we eagerly extracted every drop of information possible. No one k

within their slender means, and I, being one of them and eager to see such a "stampede,

dish of salt, and just at sunset said good-by to him with another twinge of sadness and turned toward the wharf. He looked very lonely and sad standing ther

l be gettin' fat and strong on the juicy gras

r goldseekers from down the coast, that we of the Long Trail were forced to put our beds on the floor of the little saloon in the stern of the boat which was called the "social room." We were all second-class, and we all l

re were several stowaways, and some of the women were not very nice as to their actions, and, rightly or wrongly, were

ins grew each moment more splendid as we neared Skagway, and the ride was most enjoyable. Whales and sharks interested us on the way. The women came to light next day, and on the whole were much

ut of the clouds which hid the summits of the mountains-came curving in splendid lines down to the very water's edge. The sea was chill and gray, and as we entered

ard the deep water. We found the town exceedingly quiet. Half the men had gone to the new strike. Stores were being tended by women, some small sh

Soapy Smith," the renowned robber and desperado. On the contrary, it seemed quite like any other town of its size in the States. The ai

increased the almost universal desire to have a part in the stampede. The Iowa boys from the Long Trail wasted no t

ree hundred people had already set out on this trail, and the boys felt sure of "making it all right-all right," though it led ov

fford to hire pack trains; but by making a swift dash into the country, each hoped to get a claim. How they expected to hold it or use it after they got it, they were unable to say; but as they were out for gold, and here was a chance (even though it were but

se. I found their names on the register. They had failed. One of them set forth their co

OLDSE

dreamers of

heir footst

with his ey

with a light

om the hopel

the futur

of want's wol

the forge ha

these serf

their servic

of fortune

om each bear

I'm a man

my maste

I fail,

I'm freem

a toil th

and hunge

ess no warn

with a long

ill fade fr

e from e

urse the im

when the snow

nk by the wa

t of the de

ill return

hand as

ut of all

lived and

the game wi

d of the dice

PTE

H TO AT

ho joined me here. Our supplies, together with tent, tools, and clothing, made a considerable outfit. However, in a few days we we

use, camp-bottoms, ruined cabins, tin cans, and broken bottles,-all the unsightly debris of the rush of May and June. A part of the way had been corduroyed, for which I was exceedingly grateful

ith snowy mountains in vista. We arrived at White Pass at about ten o'clock at night. A little town is sprin

the trail, we came upon the Way of Death. The waters reeked with carrion. The breeze was the breath of carrion, and all nature was made indecent and disgusting by the presence of carcasses. Within the distance of fifteen miles we passed more than two thousand d

Scotch cap on his head. The birds sat on the bleak gray rocks in the gathering dusk with the suggestion of being utterly at the end of the world. Their feathers were blown awry by the merciless wind and t

ered with yellow-green grass. All was bare, wild, desolate, and drear. The wind continued to whirl down over the divide, carrying torn gray masses of vapor which

loud talk of a couple of packers who were discussing their business with enormous enthusiasm. Happily they grew sleepy at last and

er slippery ledges of rock, among endless rows of rotting carcasses, over poisonous streams and through desolate, fire-marked, and ghastly forests of small pines. Everywhere were the traces of the furious flood of humankind that had broken over

he summer pathway. Up yonder summit, lock-stepped like a file of convicts, with tongues protruding and breath roaring from their distended throats, thousands of men had climbed wi

ed, contorted, and grinning. Their dried skins had taken on the color of the soil, so that I sometimes set foot upon them without realizi

lives, and had no idea what an animal could do, or what he required to eat, loaded their outfits upon some poor patient beast and

with long pack trains going and coming, they were for the most part well taken care of. We met many long trains of packhorses return

lowed by a huge negress. The white woman had made her pile by dancing a shameless dance in the dissolute dens of Dawson City, and was on her way to

police and the British customs officer are located. It was a drear season even in midsummer, a land of naked ledges and cold white

was in marked contrast with the exactions of my own government at Wrangell. All goods were un

that the police had stopped them by reason of their sore backs. If a man came to the lin

n sentence in many cases. This humanity, as unexpected as it was

, and came down upon Lake Bennett, where the water was considered safe to drink,

filled the streets. The wharfs swarmed with men loading chickens, pigs, vegetables, furniture, boxes of dry-goods, stoves, and every other conceivable domestic utensil into big squ

omen and children, with accompanying cats and canary birds. In every face was a look of exultant faith in the venture. They were bound for Dawson City. Th

om the winds, which grew keen as sword blades as the sun sank behind the western mountains. The sky was like Novemb

T RANGE

rs up from t

of warning an

o where the

ower waves in

e mountains the

e spray the

ite with the

sea wind ra

cold, bleak

w-flecked harb

south as a

e land of

gain shall

nd the sea and t

TER

AND THE G

ill smells, invaded by streams of foul dust, and deprived of wood and clear water. I was exceedingly eage

was a mere scow with an upright engine in the centre and a stern-wheel tacked on the outside. The

alk. We had some eight or ten passengers, all bound for the new gold fields, and these together with their baggage and tools filled the boat to the utmost corner. The f

he ride promised to be very fine. We made off down the narrow lake, which lies between two walls of high bleak m

nder a point, seeking shelter from the wind, which became each moment more furious. I made my bed down on the roof of the boat and went to sleep

caps running like hares. We drifted at last into a cove and there lay in shelter till six o'c

l looked exceedingly dirty, ragged, and sour of visage. At the same time, however, boat after boat went sailing down past us on their way to Atlin and Dawson. They

when the wind began to fall we fired up and started down the lake. As deep night came on I made my bed on the roof again and went to sleep with the flying sparks lining the s

on each side. The lake ran from southeast to northwest and was much larger than any map shows. We drove steadily for ten hours up this magnificent wa

ucing a bewildering clash of opinions with respect to the value of the mines. A few of these

ere moving up the smooth path under the small black pines, across the low ridge which separates the two lakes. At the top of this ridge we were able to look out ov

To the left-that is to the north-it seemed to divide, enclosing a splendid dome-shaped solitary mountain, one fork moving to the east

phtha launch ready to ferry us across to Atlin City, but were force

e just behind us. She so absorbed and fascinated the lad that he let the engine run itself into some cramp of piston or wheel. There was a sudden crunching sound and the

the night, we camped where we were. The talkative lady, whom the irreverent called "the glass front," occupied

ries in Dawson: how he had been successful, how he had fallen ill, and how his life had been saved by a good old miner who gave him an opportunity to work over his dump. Sick as he was he was able i

was really a powerful, self-confident, and shrewd woman, but preferred to seem young and helpless. Altogether the company was sufficiently curious. There was a young civil engineer from New York City, a land boomer from Skagway, an Irishman from Juneau, a representative

e we reached camp at about ten o'clock in the morning. Atlin City was also a clump of tents half hidden in the tree

d with rowboats and canoes, like a New England fishing village, and all day long men were loading themselves into these boats,

about to go uttered approbrious cries: "See the damn fools

ssly to and fro along the pathway just below our door. I was now chief cook and bottle washer,

e rocky islands drowsed in the mist like some strange monsters sleeping on the bosom of the water. The men were filthy and profane for the most part, and made enjoyment of nature almost impossible. Many of them were of the rudest and most un

our shoulders and set forth to test the claims which were situated upon Pine Creek, a stream which entered

g to and fro with heavy loads on their backs. They moved in little trains of four or five or six men, some going out of the country, others coming in-about an eq

failure, and loud discussions resounded from the trees as partner and I sat at supper. The town-site men

rous fury. Almost every party was in division. Some enthusiastic individual had made a find, or had seen some one else who had. His cackle reached ot

t give a hundred dollars for the whole damn moose pasture.... Well, it's good enough for me.... I tell you it's rotten, the whole damn cheese.... You've got to s

ss, the bottom visible at an enormous depth. It made me think of the marvellous water of McDonald Lake in the Kalispels. I steered the boat (with a long-handled spade) and so was able to look about

e hitherto unknown to man-translucent and iridescent. The mountains loomed like dim purple pillars at the western gate of the world, and the rays of the half-hidden sun plunging a

ng out sluice boxes and digging ditches. I panned everywhere, but did not get much in the way of colors, but the creek seemed to gr

them whip-sawing lumber, building cabins, and digging ditches. Each day the news grew more encouraging, each day brought the discovery of a new creek or a lake. Men came back i

in' your grave?' And the old feller said, 'You just wait a few minutes and I'll show ye.' Well, sir, he filled up a sack o' dirt and toted it down to the creek, and I went along with him to see him wash it out, and say, he took $3.25 out of one pan of that

ys ago there was a big lake up there and I thought he meant a lake six or eight miles long. On the very high ground next to Birch, you can look down over that lake and I bet it's sixty miles long. It must reach nearly to Teslin Lake." There was something pretty fine in the thought

ined to "stick to my last," notwithstanding the fascination which I felt in the sight of placer gold. Quartz mining has never had the slightest attraction for me, but to see the gold

and my note-book in hand to take a final survey of the miners and to hear for th

the men "with a cigarette and a sandwich," had gone out. Those who remai

man had his little phial of gold to show. No one was loud, but every one seemed to be quietly confid

all the literary interests of my life, began to reassert their dominion over me. For some time I had realized that this was almost an ideal spot for camping or mining. Just over in the wild country toward Teslin La

MAN OF T

master but

liege

nd ties I l

the wo

wind is pa

r chides

e or he f

are quic

turns to

his voi

ehind a ro

m of sno

subject

hings ea

flies, whe

our king

OF THE M

the dull-gree

of endless

he cricket's

that the mapl

y and learn

e leaves of th

eart in the dee

bless me with c

ves of the

voice by the

sten to hom

TER

D OF T

action. Although the clouds were gathering in the east, the sunset was superb. Taku arm seemed a river of gold sweeping between gates of purple. As the darkness came on, a long creeping line of f

n ticket on one of the boats. This ticket was not good on any other boat, and naturally I felt considerable anxiety f

small cakes of my own baking, which I carried in a bag. I was now in a sad predicament unless I should connect at Lake Bennett with some one who would carry my outfit

e my bed down on the sand beside a cart, near a shack. The wind, cold and damp, swept over the mountains with a roar. I was afraid the owners of the cart might discover me there, and order me to seek a b

nd then, in company with Doctor G. (a fellow prospector), star

full of importance and talk of their wealth; while others, sick and worn, with a wistful gleam in their eyes, seemed eager to get back to civilization and medical care. There

peg, accustomed to a plainsman's life, hardy and resolute. He said, "W

ty miles long, and passed over the summit three thousand six hundred feet above t

e journey the doctor preceded me, his broad shoulders keeping off the powerful wind and dr

ver slippery ledges, along banks of ancient snows in which carcasses of horses lay embedded, and across many rushing little streams. The way grew grimmer each step. At last we came to Crater Lake, and from that point on it was a singular and sinister land of grassless crags swathed in mist. Nothing could be seen at this po

we stood in the mighty notch of the summit, through which the wind rushed as though hurrying to some far-off, deep-

n such a storm. It might serve as the scene for an exiled devil. The picture of Beelzebub perched on one of those gray, dimly seen crags, his form outlined in the mist, would shake the heart. I thought of "Peer Gynt" wandering in the high home of the Trolls. Crags beetled beyond crags,

er set in this dim and gray and desolate place. Fearlessly she fronted me to ask the way, a laugh upon her lips, her big gray eyes confident of man's chivalry, modest and sincere. I had been so long among rude men and their coar

oman in good health can cross them easily), but they are grim and grievous ways. They reek of cruelty and every association that is coarse and hard. They pos

own, eight miles from Dyea, we came upon stages just starting over our road. But as they were all open ca

pen wagon would mean a case

ctor, and we pulled out do

were bridges, but most of the crossings were fords where it was necessary to wade through the icy water above our shoe tops. Our legs, numb and weary, threw off this chill with greater pain each time. As the night fell we could only see the footpath by the dim shine of its surface patted smooth by the moccasined feet of th

lped over the last mile miraculously. We were wet to the knees and covered with mud as we entered upon the straggling street of the decaying town. We stopped in at the first restaurant to get something hot to eat, but found ourselves al

d to think I could still walk thirty miles in eleven hours through a rain storm, and over a summit

m resolution. After breakfast we took a small steamer which ran to Skagway, where we spent the day arranging to take the steamer to the south. We felt quite at home in

med like mechanisms. They moved as if drawn by some great magnet whose centre was Dawson City. They appeared to drift on and in toward that human maelstrom going irresolutely to their ruin. They did not seem to me strong men-on the contrary, they seemed weak men-or men strong with one

ng oars on the Hotalinqua, and hundreds of them were landing every day at Dawson, there to stand with lax jaws

and violent wind roared ceaselessly from the sea gates through which the ships drive hurriedly. All these grim presences depressed me

homesick man like myself. We had not much to put aboard, and when

ON TH

in the dapple of l

mall, happy voic

slim little foo

joice as they ham

va

n gold is the

s stars the lig

e were the lon

e they defy th

are grimy, and

the wind, the s

ll slack, their fo

oes by these ea

TER

WARD

ere miners sick and broken who had failed on the Tanana, and others, emaciated and eager-eyed, from Dawson City going out with a part of the proceeds of the year's work to see their wives and children. There were a

lth and greed and foolishness of many of these men. They were commo

s great deeds, and what he was worth. He let us know how big his house was, and how much he paid for his piano. He was not a bad man, he was merely a cheap man, and was followed about by a gang of heelers to who

Devil's Dream," "Haste to the Wedding," and "The Fisher's Hornpipe." He lost all sense of being a millionnaire, and returned to his

tains at the shoulder. Vast glaciers came sweeping down from the dread mystery of the upper heights. Lower still lines of running water whit

s. A landscape without delicacy of detail or warmth or variety of color-a l

bout carrying my horse. He had no room, so I left the boat in o

man I met on the

e horse?"

nel Crittendon's garden patch, and there's a dollar to pay for the cauliflower he ate, an

" I replied with vast relief. "H

where he was feeding and soon as he heard me comin' he made for the lot-he

sidewalk in town. Everybody knew his habits. He drank in a certain place, and walked a certain round of daily feeding. The children all cried out at me:

rmanic paunch which quite destroyed his natural symmetry of body, but he was well and strong and lively. He seemed to recogniz

water of the bay for the dim speck which a steamer makes in rounding the distant island. At last the cry arose, "A steamer from the north!

ne followed me most trustfully, looking straight ahead, his feet clumping loudly on the boar

not touch at the same wharf. Therefore I carted all my goods, feed, hay, and general plunder, around to the other wharf. As I toiled to and fro the citizens began to sm

itizen of Fort Wrangell. I began to grow nervous on my own account. Was I to remain forever in Wrangell? The bay was most beautiful, but the town was wretched. It became each day more unendurable to me. I searched the wate

met the captain. I paid my fare. I got my contract and tick

r and dismay. He struggled furiously for a moment and then was quiet. A moment later he dropped into the hold and was safe. He thought himself i

hree times each day I went to feed and water him. I rubbed him with hay till his coat began to glimmer in the light and planned what I could do to help him through a storm. Fortunately th

l interest in the horse because

orted in Wrangell that some of the unfortunates were still on the snowy divide between the Ske

s doors for Ladrone. This time he struggled not at all. He seemed to say:

fe. Engines he knew something about, but not much. Steamboats and ferries he knew a great deal about; but all the strange monsters and diabolical

ny dangers safely I could still be trusted. Around us huge trucks rattled, electric cars clanged, railway engines whizzed and screamed, but Ladrone never so much as tightened the rein; and when in the da

im. Then I nailed him in and took my leave of him with some nervous dread, for the worst part of his journey was before him. He must cross three great mountain ranges

ck. I thought of the sparks flying from the engine, and how easy it would be for a single cinder to fall in the door and set

FIERCE

e delight,

es from

ins and the

n is a

ur face to

r breast to

s are rocking

nt clouds

streams of t

ay-white wat

r foot on

ut and

PTE

TRAVELS

e boom of the goldseeker was over. The talk was more upon the Spanish war; the business of outfitting was no longer paramount; the re

and it will continue to be sought, but the attention of the people is directed elsewhere. In Seattle, as all along the line, the talk a year ago had been almost enti

ast the train drew in and I hurried to his car. The door was closed, and as I nervously forced it open he whinnied with that glad chuckling a gentle horse uses toward his master. He had plenty of hay, but was hot and thirsty, and I hurried at ris

ng, I rushed into the ticket off

e and smilingly

d out. The horse is all OK. We

and returned

ed me to return once more to the plain. All the old familiar presences were there. The splendid sweep of brown, smooth hills, the glory

t goldseeking in the Rocky Mountains was marvellously simple and easy compared to even the best sections of the Northwest, and the long journey of the Forty-niners was not only incredibly more splendid and dramatic, but had the alluremen

ed I held excited controversy with the head brakeman. I asked that the car be sent to the platform. He objected. I insisted and the car was thrown in. I entered, and while Ladrone whinnied glad welcome I knocked out some bars,

o quit. He was too active for me to enjoy riding without a saddle. Right up to the door of the car he trotted, seeming to understand that his journey was not yet finished. He entered unhesitatingly and took his place. I battened down the bars, nailed the doors into plac

orse?" and I (to cover my folly) replied evasively, "He can run a little for good mone

a huge water pail and tugged a supply of water out beside the track and there sat for three hours, expecting the train each moment. At last

d the agent, in the ton

here and perishing for want of air an

so concerned about a horse was to them insanity or worse. I insisted. I banged my fist on the table. At last one of the young m

horse this morn

s probability with lazy indifference. At last the

ot see me; nevertheless I persisted. I returned to the office each quarter of an hour to ask if an answer had come to the telegram. At last it came. Ladrone was ahead and would a

dray horses, looking small and trim as a racer, was the lost horse, eating merrily on some good Minnesota timothy. He was just as much

gged getting feed, water, and bedding. Again the railway hands marvelled and loo

child? Pay-no; it does not pay. I'm amusing myself. You drink beer because you like to, you use tobacco-I squander my money on a horse."

of cars where the engines cried out like some untamable flesh-eating monsters. The light was falli

n bone and sinew. At last the luscious green hills, the thick grasses, the tall corn-shocks and the portly hay-stacks of my native valley came in view and they n

s side-tracked and sent to the chute. For the last time he felt the j

I called. "

the saddle. With neck arched high and with a proud and lofty stride he left the door of his prison be

door to the barn

exposure to rain and snow are over. Here is food

ams and over snow fields. He had responded to every word and obeyed every command. He had suffered from cold and hunger and poison. He had walked logs and wallowed through quicksands. He had helped me up enormous mountains and I had g

E OF TH

blanket, a

voice of the

s moved by the

wastes of the

r something-

woman, the l

rain-wet p

e woodland w

away-I kno

ices that c

gers that cl

mountains bl

mesas hot

eart's blood wa

he wind, the lu

w you, fol

winds, and

hat shatter th

nor, wife,

n the ci

orget when ye

rt winds aro

TER

ERS REACH TH

fort of my native Coolly, I thought of them as they went toiling over the trail, still toward the north. It was easy for me to imagine t

had to be taken down and lifted up to their lashings again four times each day. This meant toil. It meant also constan

arrived at Teslin Lake in September, after being a month on the roa

ad-waters of the Pelly and no more use for the horses. Indeed, the gold-hunters abandoned all thought of the Nisutlin and the Hotalinqua. They were fairly in the grasp of the tremendous current

menace. Day by day they drifted while the spitting snows fell hissing into the cold water, and ice formed around the keel o

e skies darkened and lowered as the days shortened. All signs of life except those of other argon

lives. They landed on a wooded island after a desperate struggle and went into camp with the thermometer thirty below zero. But what of that? Th

eir desire to go farther was checked. They had reached

o others whom he had selected to represent the other outfit. The thermometer was fifty-six degrees below zero, and yet for seven days, wit

ed him about and rubbed him with snow until his blood began to circulate once more. In attempting to walk on the river, which was again in motio

nd the fire as usual," not daring to sleep for fear of freezing. They literally frosted on one side while scorching at the fire on the other, tu

beds and nearly two thousand pounds of outfit and toiled down the river still farther into the terrible north. The chronicle of this trip by Burton is of mathematical bre

singe a hole into the soil ten or fifteen feet deep in the midst of the sunless seventy of the arctic circle is no light task, but these men will do it; if hardihood and honest toil are of an

y fail

of all wi

lived and

the game wi

d of the dice

HE TRA

ail ends-He

and darker

ossed on our l

teady. Ho, the

he saddle shall

clear from com

grasses, go mun

faithful, but a

adeship held '

er and the wide

asture, and dea

the tra

he tra

with the

tch, loose

ks away from each

the axe, the camp

each cayuse and

the roses and gr

hat slope to the

serve us; no more

he lash, the h

l go to a win

beasts where n

the tra

he tra

the far-shining mo

the icy mad to

ng ropes, coil

s, and put the b

he roses of

r shall we sav

ent-cloth, let the

ll shelter, we are

a pine branch,

the air 'twixt

e we cross th

old, the dark

the tra

l ends. Here

t boat, the sl

lone-no man

loom of the swi

rd, but here w

man waits, an

there where the d

matter! No ma

re told the pow

he game to the

ere the t

RK

ERT

oth. Eac

and his

ond Came

urer of t

y of th

er's

ents have the picturesque quality, and he has the sense for the scale of character-drawing

ames G

nely executed. There is strength

elegraph

ISHE

MILLAN

AVENUE,

W ED

DUTCHER'

IN G

12mo.

M DEAN

h pleasure they have given me Mr. Garland's

CR

sm, which makes the book readable even to those who

NE

ne of the most powerful novels of rec

CITY

ce of this is needed than a perusal of his 'Rose of Dutcher's Coolly.' One might sum up the m

MILLAN

fth A

W