Ismailia

tribes, and had excellent sport in antelope shooting when the steamer stopped at forest

had formed in many places, and it was impossible for the vessels to approach the old landing-place. We therefore dropped down the stream to a spot where high ground and a few tr

the land was thickly populated. Now, all is desolate: not a village exists on the mainland; they have all been destroyed, and the inhabitants have

sed him protection if he and his people would return to the mainland and become true subjects to the Khedive. At the same time I informed him that, in return for protection, his people must cultivate cor

to Egypt. My soldiers took a great interest in the operation, and as we covered the seeds with l

defaced by the destruction of many boughs, while the ground beneath is literally covered by many thousands of withered lemons that have fallen neglected from the branches without a hand to gather them. The natives will not eat them, thus the delicious fruit has been wasted; perh

lated at 364 to this point (Gondokoro); but I deduct 10 per cent., as we

e, junction to G

on to Dubba on Ba

er Nile junc

unction to S

Khartoum

les to G

the lowest description, his natural vices having been increased by constant associations with the slave-hunters. This man declared that

would be obliged to be sheltered in his villages upon arr

the relative position of the traders. At this he burst out laughing in the rudest manner. He had seen me and my wife on our former voyage, and he well remembered that in those days we had been not only helpless in Gondokoro, but that the traders had spoken of all Europeans with contempt. He had already hoard from Abou [*] Saood's people of my expected arrival, by whom he had been incited against the expedition. It had been explained to him, that if baffled, we should soon become disgusted, and return to Khartoum. He also remembered that many Europeans had visited Gondokoro like myself, but none had remained. It w

company of Agad & Co., who farmed

aluable allies of the slave-hunters, as the geographical position of Gondokoro rendered it the only spot that was adapted for an important station. The traders now possessed of the monopoly of the ivory trade, found no necessity for a permanent station at

ce of the arrival of the expected vessels. Many hundreds of his people had been armed with guns by the traders, therefore his tribe and the companie

blessings of a good government

invaded the unprotected Allorron, and had utterly destroyed his district on the eastern mainland. For many miles the country now resembled a very lovely park. Every habitation had disappeared, and this formerly populous position was quite deserted by the surviving inhabitants, who had taken refuge in the islands, or on the west side of the river. At this season the entire coun

r cattle venture across the river to pasture upon the beautiful herbage, that was now entirely neglected except by a few herds of antelopes. At the same time, the pasturage on the islands, being in

government. I invited them to return to their old country, from which they had been expelled, and to rebuild their villages o

mmense advantage to the slave-traders, as it had given them time to organize a resistance to the expedition. The negroes are easily misled; naturally vicious and treacherous, they are ready to believe any

constantly about me were very different from those who formed the bulk o

ard of picked men, arm

reside at head-quarters, which would be the site originally occupi

an;" his was the only name remembered by the Baris, and his body had been buried here, but nothing marked the spot. He had passed away, like all the rest of these good and self-s

s, custard apples, Indian corn, garlic, barmian, tobacco, cabbages, tomatoes, chilis, long capsicums, carrots, parsley, celery. I arranged the daily labour so t

s extremely low; I therefore fixed a pole wit

elieve that no employment engenders such a love of a particular locality as that of farming, provided always that the soil and climate are favourable. Thus, in an expedition to a distant land, it is necessary to induce the feelings of HOME among the people. The hut by itself is simply shelter, but the same hut surrounded by a neat and productive garden, the result of industry, b

t in cultivation. Each had a garden, and a day never passed without permission being asked for a few hours' recreation with the spade or hoe, th

I were a missionary, I should commence with such practical teaching, thus proving in your

nal will describe the gradua

s from this station, in which is an unlimited supply of wood, including the most magnificent tamarind-trees. These beautiful specimens are dotted about the country, like park timber i

a perfect chronicler. It appears that Abou Saood treacherously murdered the sheik of Belinian, a country about twelve miles distant from this station. He feared the sheik of Belinian, who was a powerful neighbour: he therefore, professing friendship, invited him and his family to an entertainment at Gondokoro. The sheik and his people, not suspecting evil, arrived, bringing with them the usua

here I went accompanied by Lieutenant Baker, Mr. Higginbotham, and my wife, to measure out the camp and fort. As usual i

of the "Forty Thieves" is very neat; a spirit of industry has seized upon the whole party. The women have made gardens around their huts, and agricul

s to our fine pasturage. It is curious to see the manner in which the herd follows the man who swims before them

as suddenly, showing that the rise was only the effect of t

about eight, ten, and twenty pounds each. These we

ate, and are taking flight. Myriads of the black and white tern and the white st

the troops are above ground, to the great delight of the men

used in a neat station on the high ground, while my servants had a pretty little village of their own situated on the knoll, by the river side, about fifty yards from my diahbeeah. This vessel was moored alongside the bank, the f

Africa, but we were very hungry, and we could procure nothing from the natives. We had no bu

appetite they are a little too light on the stomach. In the mean time, although the natives could now venture to drive their cattle to the rich pasturage under our protection, which they could not before enjoy for fear of their enemies the Loqui

in front of the troops, in order to claim a right to the soil. On this occasion he came himself, prepared with a cup formed of a small go

ontinued, "You had better go back to Khartoum, and I wi

nd belong to?-to you or to me?" I explained that his people had been driven out by a superior force, and that we had found it abandoned; at the same time, neither he nor his peo

s shade). "It belongs to the Khedive of Egypt," I replied, "who is now protecto

er be off to Khartoum, for we

principle been adhered to throughout the history of the world, there would have been no progress. Savages of all countries are prone to

journey as a tribe of intractable savages. The Austrian missionaries had abandone

any years' teaching were the death of many noble men, the loss of money, the failure of the attempt; and instead of the enterprise leaving a legacy of inward spiritual grace to these "men and brethren," the missionary establ

ke grass lands;-very little actual flat, but a series of undulations, ornamented with exceedingly fine timber-forests of considerable extent, and mountains rising to about 2,500 or 3,000 feet above their base. From these mountains numerous streams drained to the Nile: these were generally dry in the summer season. The soil was poor in the neighbourhood of Gondokoro, but at a distance from the river, the country was fertile; the rocks were throughout granitic; the mountains yielded the finest iron o

upulously clean. The Bari hut differs from that of other tribes, as it contains an inner circle, which can only be used by creeping on the hands and knees-first through the entrance, which is only twenty-four inches high, and secondly from the passage formed by the in

er hard wood or of stone, to resist the white ants; the wicker-work is smeared w

all and the mutton is good; but although the fine pasturage of the Bari country is eminently adapted for sheep and goats, these animals are delicate, and require much attention

strong objection to sell their cattle; thus you may be sur

as a man's thigh are sunk in the earth, so as to leave a fence or stockade of about eight feet high above the surface; these piles are placed as close as possible together, and interlaced by tough hooked thorns, which when dry and contracted bind the stockade into a very compact defence.

f these instruments are very large, and as much as two men could carry on a pole. Both ends are hollowed through and secured with hide; but the broad end forms the actual drum. This is beaten with two short sticks of hard wood. In the early morning, shortly before sunrise, the hollow sound of the big drum is always heard giving the signal by a certain number of beat's for the milking of the cows. The women and young men then commence, and when the operation is completed, the drum beats again, and the large herds are driven to pasturage. The

rows. They seldom carry shields, as they are difficult to manage together with the b

xtremely rare. They wear an apron before and behind of tanned leather, extending nearly to the knees, which is only the outer garment, beneath which they wear a neatly-made fringe of innumerab

irty yards, and they can pitch it into a body of men at upwards of fifty yards. From early childhood the boys are in constant practice, both with the lance and the bow and arrow; thus, al

ts on their heads, carrying salt from Gondokoro, and each returning with a goat, led by a string. Excellent salt is found at Gondokoro, real chloride of sodium; and this article enables the natives of that district to trade with the interior, where salt is extremely rare and of great value. I

troops were without rations of meat. At the same time there were thousands of cattle on the islands before their eyes, not one of which could be purchased from the natives. Although the natives refused to assist us in any way, or to supply us with cattle at any price, they drove their herds across from the island to the mainland to fatten on the fine pasturage under th

hanged suddenly to the south, in which unfavourable quarter it continued steadily for a month; thus my unfortunate men had to tow the vessels along the banks against wind and stream for about 300 miles from Wat-el-Shambi to Gondokoro. Upon arrival at that station, which I had described to the

labour awaiting them, as they had to wander several miles in search of long thatch-grass and timber t

ngry, and no cattle could be purchased from my

terms the folly of trusting to the support of Abou Saood and his people against the government, as they were all subjects of the Khedive and boun

at which he grinned, as a good joke, and immediately replied: "If you want cattle, I will give you some of my people as guides, and you can attack a neighbour of mine, and capture his herds, which will last you for a long time." I re

f the country, including the sheik of Belinian, to an entertainment.

he river. Every small bush had been cleared away, and the position in the centre of an open park-like country would have formed an admirable race-course.

ncluding ten mountain rifled gun

d with the band playing from head-quarters to the flagstaff above my station. As they filed through the green trees, and then formed into sections of companies as they emerged into the

ed the astonished natives. All the sailors, servants, and camp-followers were dressed in their best clothes. The prevailing colours, white and red, looked exceedingly gay upon the close and even surface of the green

ed three sides of a square with the flag-staff in the centre. The fourth

he foot of the flag-staff. At the termination of the last sentence, the Ottoman flag was quickly run up by the halyards and fluttered in the strong br

in the advance down the long slope which led to the temporary camp and tents erected for the entertainment. Here the bugle sounded "disperse," and all the men immediately set to work to light fir

ith me, and our party of eighteen was easily acc

of annexation," and was annexed accordingly by English appetites. This was washed down and rendered wholesome by a quantity of pure filtered water from the river Nile, which was included in the annexation; and was represented in the Nile Basin mixed with Ja

No one had ever seen such an exhibition before, therefore it caused immense satisfaction. One of the representations that was most applauded, was, Moses going through the Red Sea with the Israelites, followed by Pharaoh. The story being well

ion was over, and it was neces

e following Cam

under any pretext whatever. Neither shall any tree whatsoever be either cu

ces of the flag-staff or camp without per

r in exchange; neither shall any person shoot, or cause to be shot, elephants: all ivory

purchase or receive slaves

f the above laws will be punished as the wi

down every ornamental tree in the neighbourhood. Although the mission-house had disappeared, the foundations remained; I dug them up a

or the most part convicts, although professing Islamism preferred t

) to lay his rifle on the ground and to enter stealthily the doorway of his hut. Abdullah Maseri, the servant, lost no time in running towards th

eld him until he obtained assistance. There was no escape from conviction, ther

will confess all. It was I who entered the Pacha's room at Tewfikeeyah. It was at me t

He was secured in irons and placed under a guard. The fellow had been a professional thief, and during t

ring with the troops. Although the Baris would neither work nor assist in any manner, they continued, in

if he continued to drive his cattle to the

inland as usual, not the slightest notice having

explained the order to the natives who guarded the cattle, and without any

the island, and reported

and his

ves, together with Tomby the interpreter, attended and formed a deputation. I received them beneath the sh

nce they could not venture to drive their cattle to the mainland. At the same time they explained, that the extreme dryness of the season had exhausted the grass upon the island after the

) until they showed a disposition to accept the Khedive's authority. At the same time, if the natives would bring thatch grass and assist th

tion. I informed them that they must themselves appoint a responsible sheik or headman, as many had refused to obey Allorron. I should regard one chief as their representative, and they as headmen must elect him at the present assembly. I should als

e true sheik by actual descent was a chief named Morbe; but as his cattle had been carried off by the Loquia, he had lost his property, and also h

ight require. The meeting ended by their agreeing to deliver a certain number of bundles in a given period: they also promised to supply the troops with oxen at a stipulated price. Morbe, the new sheik, then addressed me in the name of the assembly, and begged me to establish confidence and goodwill by returning them their cattle. I had expected this request. I therefore replied, that as they had attended my summons and prom

ws, while my soldiers looked on with utter amazeme

s. The sheik of Belinian had refused to appear; and he alleged as an excuse that he feared treachery, since his father and family had been murdered when guests of Abou Saood. The Baris of Gondokoro had regained the

, and that the government would not succeed in that country. The people wished me to join them with my troops, and to att

White Nile, the natives sold ivory for beads and copper bracelets; and trade was fairly established. The armed companies of the traders were immediately invited to become allies, and attacks were made upon various tribes. The cattle and slaves became the property of the captors. The traders

hat I assured them of the impossibility of such proceedings, and that Abou Saood's people would not be permitted by the government to continue these atrocities. They ridiculed the idea, and declared that the traders would always continue in their old

e the most brutal and obtuse savages. They had been abandoned by the m

ng. By degrees the Baris absented themselves entirely from our camp, and we were left to ourselves as utter strangers. The cattle were driven over to our fine pasturage da

and drove them to head-quarters as before. The old scene was re-enacted. The new sheik, Morbe, together with Allorron and many headmen,

them as hostages for their good behaviour; at the same time, I should selec

goodwill . . . A few days elapsed, but the Bar

empt of the natives to drive off some of the cattle. T

ued a General Ord

nment, and having refused compliance with the regulations establis

re of women, or children of either sex. Any officer or sol

forest. A party of sawyers with a small escort of soldiers were settled in a camp about three miles from my station, as the distance was too great for a daily return from their work. One night they were attacked by the natives, who shot arrows and yelled for about an hour, bu

e herd by stalking from bush to bush, without being observed by the sleepy guards, made a sudden rush with loud yells among the cattle, and succeeded in driving off ten c

s, until they had succeeded in entering the cattle zareeba. One of them confessed that a large body of natives was

t various points about a quarter of a mile from my station. They were to l

shot I found that the sentries had fired into the advanced party of natives,

land opposite to my camp. This was about seven miles in length, therefore, in return for

ed opposite my station, where they waited in the dark until the steamer, with myself and two companies on board, had rounded the head of the island, and had obtained a position in the west channel. The troops then advanced while the

herds of cattle that might be passing to the west mainland. Every arrangement was well carried out; but, unfortunately,

n discretion, while I left the steamer in the dingy, accompanied by Lieutenant Baker and six soldiers of the "Forty Thieves," with th

march, I concluded that we should now land somewhere near them. This turned out correct, as we joined his party a few minutes after we had left the boat. I immediately detached a sergeant and nineteen men to march along the east

d had changed. We had left the dry portion, which had been lately sown with dhurra, and we had arrived amo

iece of country. At this moment wo heard shots fired a

ick forest; thus, following the stream, we shortly arrived at the main river, just in time to see the natives at a distance of a quarter of a mile swimming a large herd of cattle across the stream to the east shore, where they landed and saf

ldiers were among them. The affair ended by the capture of a portion of the herd, and the return to camp at 5.30 P.M. We had eaten nothing since the previous evening, as the boat containing our breakfast had not yet appeared. We had been on our legs in the sun for fourteen hours, thus we were ready for dinner on the retu

f which went through the trousers of a soldier. My men told a long story, and made themselves out to be perfect heroes; but my servants and the boatmen told a very different tale, and decl

s of Gondokoro had leagued themselves

Lieutenant Baker and Mr. Higginbotham, together with Lieutenant-Colonel Abdel-Kader and twenty men of the "Forty Thieves." Not a word was spoken, as it was important to march without the slightest noise that might alarm the native scouts who were generally prowling about throughout the night. We arrived at head-quarters, a mile and a half distant, where four companies with one gun had been ordered to be in readi

e it difficult to drag the gun, the wheels of which constantly stuck in the stumps and roots of trees. Several times we had to halt,

h places it required the force of thirty men to drag the gun, and the delays became serious. Lieutenant-Colonel Tayib Agha commanded the three companies of

e Raouf Bey followed me with fifty Egyptian troops. It was absolutely necessary to push on. Tayib Agha had a native guide, therefore he and h

d. We were now in a clear space where a few large trees grew in a clump upon our right. Sherroom, who evidently knew every inch of the country, whispered that we must wait here in silence, as there were villages not far off, and the stockade that we were to a

gth the black night began to grow more grey, and we could just make out some dark masses, that appeared to be villages, upon the right and left. We now mar

nd his detachment, but it was abs

by the "Forty Thieves," who ran like hounds. I immediately surrounded the stockade, from which the natives had commenced to shoot their arrows. The Egyptian troops were close up, and in the uncertain light it was impossible to see the arrows in their flight; thus one soldier was immediately wounded; another received a shot through his trousers. An arrow stuck in Mr. Higginbotham's saddle, and they began to fly about very viciously. The "Forty Thieves" now opened fire, while the Egyptians were drawn up in a line about fifty yards from the stockade. It was rather awkward, as the defence was a circle: thus as the troops fired in

eutenant Baker and Mr. Higginbotham, together with a party of the "Forty Thieves," while others of the same c

ng sound of innumerable drums throughout the district far and near; and as it had now become light, I could distinguish the natives collecting from all parts and evidently surroun

er of arrows, and the natives, finding that it was getting too hot, suddenly made a dash by a secret

in the earth, and arranged so closely together that not one bullet out of ten would have found its way through the crevices if fired from a distance. The proper way to attack the circular stronghold

position, which I could hold until joined by Tayib Agha. I accordingly took a few of the "Forty Thieves" to a distance of about 150 paces away from

the dripping trees. I ordered some grass huts to be fired, as the volume of smoke might attract the attention of

moke rose high in air, which would be a

levated post they blew the call for the lieutenant-colonel

eys, and liver having been cut into pieces about two inches square, and arranged on a steel ramrod, were well salted and peppered, and laid on the red-hot embers when the flame and smoke had subsided. There is nothing so good as kab

of Tayib Agha having lost his way, when we heard distant shots fired on the open hills at the foot of Belinian mountain, about a mile and, a half to our right. We shortly di

e, and even make out the gun that was dragged by abou

and intelligent: she had formerly been a slave of the traders, and was marked, according to their custom, b

lightest provocation? She replied that they had been invited by the sheik Allorron to become allies, therefore th

ich they had driven off from Gondokoro. If they desired peace, I should be happy to treat with them, but if they should return to attack us at head-quarters, I sh

ared, had purposely misled them. This was not the fact; the man had lost his way in the dark in the ende

re was no fear of the Baris. They kept aloof, and merely watched our movements from the tops of high trees, where the

jungle path to Gondokoro. I therefore determined to make a reconnaissance of the neighbourhood when the men should hav

ng three companies and the gun, and extending the line in open order, with skirmish

ecame thinner, and we suddenly emerged upon a broad, open valley or plain, which was b

apidly forward, the Baris clearing out of their villages and gathering on our flanks as we approached. A shot from the gun sent an eight-pound shell which exploded in the air above a group about 700

allies, Sherroom and Morgian, as the cattle neither understood Arabic nor the manners or customs of the Egyptians. After a little whistling and coaxing in the Bari lan

at the zareeba; thus they had no knowledge of our start, and we arrived at Gondokor

for an excursion of some days; they had accordingly beaten their big drums and gathered together from all quarte

in sight, and with a fair breeze they

s in one of t

iculty until he arrived at the dam, through which his people cut a passage. The great rush of water scoured a deep channel, and his squadron of light vessels came on without difficulty. I or

he death of Agad; therefore the representation of the firm of

along the west bank of the river; thus in direct defiance of the government authority, he had made a razzia upon some tribe during his voy

k named Niambore. This sheik was the tallest and most powerful man that I ever saw in Africa, and he was a trustworthy and good fellow. He had promised to cultivate a farm for the governme

ives without any provocation, and had carried off the

ad directed Abou Saood to their cattle, and there would be a great chance of a c

flocked to welcome the new comers as old friends who had been long absent. The brigands had as usual arrived with a large herd of cattle, which in Africa is always the best introduction; thus the rob

e actually holding friendly intercourse with them, and the Baris are quite at home assisting these rascals in erecting their camp, although they positively refused

lation of thieving niggers, who hail his arrival as the harbinger of fat times, Gondokoro being the g

el Abd-el-Kader, Lieutenant Baker, Monsoor, and four soldier

isappeared in the high reeds. The traders' people received me without the slightest mark of respect, and

four soldiers as sentries over the herd, which I conf

hell, and the natives will naturally abhor any lawful government so long as they can

fficial letter to Abou Saood of

GONDOKORO, J

vakeel of the fi

S

st. with a large number of cattl

th the government, have nevertheless been i

by stealing slaves and cattle from the interior, and delivering them here, have utterly destroyed all hope

t I can permit the co

all your people from the district under my command. At the same time I declare the forfeitu

L W. B

ency. I should at once have placed Abou Saood in irons, and have sent him to Kharto

occurred that altered my determination. (These cattle were kept in a separate pen or zareeba, and were guarded when at pastu

in the house of the latter officer, and their friendship had originally commenced in Khartoum during the long interval that the regiments were awaiting m

uch intimacy mi

re natural that Abou Saood should exert himself to ruin the expedition. Having friend in Raouf Bey, he was in a position to create division of opinion. He constantly associated with this officer, in order that it should be

the traders during the White Nile voyage! I had only learnt this on arrival at Gondokoro; thus when corn was

ntrigues. He fraternized secretly with Allorron and his Baris. Many of his men purchased tobacco from the natives in exchange for ammunition. The natives from Belinian were in daily communicati

gion spread rapidly, and the men worked languidly and without the slightest interest: they had made up their minds that the expedition was a failure, an

erpetual vigilance both by night and day. It was necessary to have strong patrols in two parties at all hours; and I regret to say the Egyptian officers and men did not appear to enjoy

ed to be contagious. Many men died from these malignant ulcers, which in some cases entirely destroyed the foot. The women did not suffer from this complaint. It originated from a poisonous grass that

ot hope for regular supplies of corn and reinforcements of troops from Khartoum in the dreadful state of the river: thus they felt their position keenly, as sick, dispirited, in the midst of enemie