Make Your Own Hats

ipm

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chalk o

pliers or w

, large

for pa

e-good

ck and white, number 36.

aper of milliner's

-of good qua

alk-white a

e hand, not too heavy, with blunt poi

sed to make

br

ck

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or bra

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one side and rather rough on the other. It is more commonly used for hat foundations than a

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eshed material, used to make soft hat frames, to cover wire frames, and

or fl

ar material on account of its great pliability and lightness. It is used for blocking fr

e n

ial used for blocking and for sof

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brittle, and very expensive, used in blocking

ore using. Not recom

is covered with cotton, mercerized cotton, and s

bl

etimes for the entire frame. Being larger than frame wire, it makes a pleasing effect

or bra

sewed on the edge of all bu

a

bbon and flowers, and sometimes for making an en

NETEEN WITH RIBBON-WIRE

i

ools. Is used to tie other wires, and in making ha

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wide, with a fine wire woven through the center

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buckram or other fabric brims, if the hat is unusually wide, or if a brim is

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oundation upon which we build, and if poorly made no amount of work can cover it up later. A h

m sailor with a square crown, covered with v

r hat

eight of crown, three and one-half inches; length of crown tip, eight and one-half i

rn fo

and one-half inches the largest possible circle; the paper may be

wire, because the headsize wire must be oval to fit the head. The

size

he foundation wire. Pass a tape measure around the head over the hair where the hat is to rest and add two inches to this measu

-six inches long; this allows for the two inches just mentioned. Lap the ends one in

il it is elongated to fit the head. This headsize w

e in paper, having the back and front of brim of equal width, and the two sides of brim of equal width.

tern. Mark location of center back and center front. Remove pattern and with a hot iron press the buckram perfectly flat,

alf inches back and front. Pin wire on smooth side of buckram with lap at center back, also pin front and each side, being careful not to lose the shape of the headsize wire. Bring needle up from under side of brim close to wire, beginning at lap. Take stitch over wire to under side coming back through first stitch to right side. Take next stitch over wire one-fourth inch from first, comin

e w

to hold a wire in place. Begin at center-back of hat holding wire toward you, and sewing from right to left. Hold wire as near the edge as possible, without letting it slip over the edge. Sew on with overcasting stitch, taking two stitches in same hole. Take the stitches just the dept

of such goods on a true bias, three-eighths of an inch wide. Remove the selvage and stretch the

ide-wro

nd then a short back stitch on wrong side. Lap ends of crin

re c

inches in height would be at least one and one-half inches smaller at the top than at the bottom. Any crown made separately from the brim must be large enough to cover th

r slanting

nch, or about enough to take out about one and one-half inches. Pin slashes. Lap ends of paper one-fourth inch and pin together. Place this pattern on brim with joining at back and pin to upturned slashes on brim. Try on to see if any alterations are necessary. It can be de

e crown fr

he natural roll. Cut close to pattern; lap the ends one-fourth inch. Sew, using a fine back stitch close to each edge; this makes two rows of stitching. Sew a p

wn

ng or it may be made of buckram, producing

e of crinoline, the exact shape of the crown, plus one inch all around. Pin this over top, puffing it

this mark. Next, in order to fold down this stiff crown tip, it will be necessary to cut, from this half-inch of buckram outside the pencil line, small

ow

rown. If an entire frame is purchased, remove the crown and wire its bottom edge. After some skill has be

r round

in chapter II. Sew the crown to brim before adjusting the side crown covering. Pull this bias piece over crown and pin smoothly in place. Finish top and bottom of this band by turning the edges over a wire. Use same stitch as in finishing edge of facing on brim.13-1 This makes a neat finish for a hat which will demand little

wire see

wire see

ee cha