The Home of the Blizzard / Being the Story of the Australasian Antarctic Expedition, 1911-1914

ent places, let us se

y to a lonely

the night-wind, the

de

alling, calling-L

the point of the arrival of the 'Aurora' in Hobart, after her

reach Hobart on November 4. In company with Mr. C. C. Eitel, secret

n the mainmast, was steaming up the D'Entrecasteaux Channel. This left no doubt as to her identity and so, later in the day, we j

as expected, for several liners, travelling by the same route, and arriving in

ho gave up all their time during the stay in Hobart to the care of those important animals. A feeling of relief spread over the whole ship's company as the last dog passed over the side, for travelling with a d

and, as we ranged alongside, the Premier, Sir Elliot

had elapsed since my departure from London, when he had be

of strikes and the Coronation festivities. It was so urgent to reach Australia in time for the ensuing Antarctic summer, tha

excursion through a considerable range of the scale, they picked up a note apparently suitable to all and settled down to many hours of incessant and monotonous howling, as is the custom of these dogs when the fit takes them. It was quite evident that they were not looking forward to another sea voyage. The pandemonium made it all but impossible to hear the ord

and, on the whole, several very uncomfortable days were spent. Such inconvenience at the outset undoubtedly did good, for many of the crew, evidently not prepared for emergency conditions, left at Cardi

ve hundred tons of the Crown Fuel Company's briquettes were got

ter a comparatively rapid and uneventful voyage. A couple of days sufficed to

ravelled out by the 'Aurora' in charge of the sledging-dogs, had their ti

eed of fresh meat and fish to withstand the cold and wet. In the rough weather of the latter part of the voyage water broke continually over the deck, so lowering their vitality that a number died from seizures, not properly understood at the time. In each case death was sudden, and preceded by similar symptoms. An apparently healthy dog would drop down in a fit, dying in a few minutes, or during another fit within a few days. Epidemics, accompani

on at first appeared comic, and called forth jeers upon their faint-hearted shipmates. The next moment, on the dog dashing into view, they found a common cause with their fellows and sprang aloft. Ere many minutes had elapsed the entire crew were in the rigging, much to the amusement of the officers. By this time the dog had disappeared beneath the fo'c'sle head, and Mertz and Ninnis entered, intending to dispatch it. A shot was fired and word pas

on the voyage, but all except one suc

iff to Hobart occupi

M. of Saturday, December 2, and a truly appall

mselves for special duties; in this the

eived would occupy much space. We must needs pass on with th

ges in the great Queen's Wharf shed. Wild was placed in charge, and all entered heartily into the work. The exertion of it was just what was wanted to make us fit, and prepared for the sudden an

being provided for, and consequently the most careful supervision was necessary to prevent mistakes, especially as the omission of a single article might fundament

be packed in cases of a handy size, to facilitate unloading an

package bore a different number, and the detailed

fected, and many deficiencies made good. The labours of the shipwrights did not interf

ed as they were transfered to the 'tween decks. Then came the overflow. Eventually, every available space in the ship was flooded with a complicated assemblage of gear, ranging from the comparatively undamageable wirel

owage of everything with a nicety which did him credit. The complete effects of the four bases were thus kept separate, and available in wha

ch, though awkward, was comparatively light, the case weighing much more than the contents

aeroplane sledge," or more correctly "air-tractor sledg

d, it would be chiefly exercised for the purpose of drawing public attention to the Expedition in Australia, where aviation was then almost unknown. With this object in view, it arrived in Adelaide at an early date accompanied by the aviator, Lieutenant Watkins, assisted by Bickerton. There it u

ch, made it necessary to take larger quantities than we liked of this dangerous cargo. Four thousand gallons of "Shell" benzine and one thousand three

hartered. It was arranged that this auxiliary should leave Hobart several days after the 'Aurora', so as to allow us time, before her arrival, to inspect the island, and to select a suitable

wis, and the citizens of Hobart extended to us the greatest hospitalit

space of an hour at luncheon. Then began the final leave-taking. "God speed" messages were recei

ception of kind wishes from Queen Alexandra and

thy and interest, we felt sti

pilot us down the river, already on the bridge. A vast

ron, we glided out into the channel, where our supply of dynamite and cartridges was taken on board. Captain G. S. Nares, whose kin

rawberries and cream", as the younger members of the Expedition had come to regard it, was for ever to live pleasantly in our memories, to be recalled a thousand times during the adventurous months which followed. Mr. E. Joyce, whose name is familiar in connexion w

land. A few miles lower down the channel, the Premier, and a number of other fri

ance at the barograph showed a continuous fall, and a telegram from Mr. Hunt, Head of the Commonwealth Weather Bureau, received

in the increasing swell, the water commenced to run about the decks. There was no time to be lo

s was accommodated chiefly on the roof of the main deck-house, where it was out of the way of the dogs. The roof of the chart-house, which formed an extension of the bridge proper, did not escape, for the railing offered facilities f

ard-room well nigh impossible of access, and it was some days before everything was jammed away into corners. An unoccupied five-berth cabin was fill

ntervals was it visible. However, by our unite

twilight sky. A tiny, sparkling lamp glimmered from Signal Hill its warm fa

s. If 'Fram' were "Forward," she was to be hereafter

d of darkness, and thought leapt to the bec

hove to with head to wind, wallowing in mountainous seas. Such a storm, witnessed from a large vessel, would be an inspiring sight, but was doubly so in a small craft, especially where the natural buoyancy had been largely impaired by overloading. With an unprecedented quantity of deck cargo, amongst which were six thousand gallons of benzine,

d in the general work, constantly tightening up the lashings and lending "beef," a sailor's term for man-power, wherever required.

ship. A quantity of ashes was carried down into the bilge-water pump and obstructed the steam-pump. Whilst this was being cleared, the emerg

was noticed, sea-water had entered to such an extent as to render our supply u

December 5, when one came aboard on the starboard quarter, smashed half the bridge and carried it away. Toucher w

launch drew, the launch itself wa

s 56 minutes S. and longitude 152 degrees 28' E., with the weather so

debris of all kinds, including pots and pans full and empty. Nor did the difficulties end in the galley, for food which survived until its arrival on the table, though not allowed much time for further mi

r, Mother Carey's chickens only were seen, but, as the wind abated, the majestic

mes refer to Appendix

nd unfami

, but at too great a distance

6 A.M. we were some sixteen miles off the west coast of M

eral miles at both extremities of the main island, reappearing again some miles beyond in isolated rocky is

-like interior, reaching a maximum elevation of one thousand four hundred and twenty-five feet. Nowhe

e climate is comparatively cold, but it is the prevalence of s

few men stationed at the island during part of the year for the purpose of rendering down sea elephant and peng

g westerlies. One of the old-time sealers had reported a cove suitable for small craft at the south-western corner, but the information was scanty, and recent mari

l dimensions, and the fact that a rocky islet for the most part bloc

ding at intervals to ascertain whether the 'Aurora' could make use of it,

th a profuse growth of brown kelp. Leaping out of the water in scores around us were penguins of several varieties, in their actions reminding us of nothing so much as shoals of fish chased by sharks. Penguins were in thousands on the uprising cliffs, and from rookeries near and far came an

ILLUST

arie

he relaxation made us all feel like a b

an army of Royal penguins; picturesque little fellows, with a crest and eyebrows of long golden-yellow feathers. A few ya

ns, while others hoisted some cases of stores on to a rocky knob to form a provision depot, as it was qu

sea, and it was only after long persuasion that a bevy took to the water. This was a sign of a general capitulation, and some hundreds immediately followed, jostling each other in their haste, squawking, whirring their flippers, splashing and churning the water, remindin

downy young, about the size of a barn-door fowl, resembling the grote

. On the south side of the bay, in a low, peaty area overgrown with tussock-gras

lers in the early days. At the present time Macquarie Island is more favoured by them than probably any other known locality. The name by which they are popularly known refers to their elephantine proportions and to the fact that, in the case

of the off-shore wind. When about one-third of a mile north-west of the entrance, a violent shock was felt, and she slid over a rock which rose up out of deep water to within about fourteen feet of high-water level; no sign of it appearing on the surface on acco

ng reefs ran out from many headlands, and cascades of water could be see

o an almost isolated outpost in the form of a flat-topped hill-Wireless Hill-some three-quarters of a mile farther north. It is practic

t breeze was blowing, and the wash on the beach put landing out of the question. Captain Davis ran i

f human life. This was not surprising as it was only seven o'clock. Below the huts, upon low surf-covered rocks running out from the beach, la

ne of the huts. After surveying us for a moment, he disappeared within to reappear shortly afterwards, followed by a stream of others rushing hit

ls that the ship on the beach was the 'Clyde', which had recently been wrecked, and that all hands were safely on shore, but requiring assistance.

landing could be made on the opposite side of the spit, so the anchor was raised and the ship steamed round the north end of the island, to what Captain Davis proposed should be named Ha

water, came out to us, meeting the 'Aurora' some three miles off the land

visits of ships, other than those sent down specially to convey their oil to New Zealand, being practically unknown. For a

y were greatly relieved to hear that our auxiliary vessel, the 'Toroa' was expected im

realization of its value would be most desirable, to make good the loss sustained by the wreck. I decided, therefore, in view of their hospitality, to m

he year, it was necessary to erect buildings in the lee of substantial break-winds. Several sites for a hut convenient to a serviceable landing-place were inspected at

of a free outlook and of increased electrical potential, allowing of a shorter length of mast. In addition the ground in this situation proved to be peaty and sodden, and therefore a good conductor, thus presenting an excellent "earth" from the wireless standpoint. In short, the a

Wireless Hill, and which they had erected for the carriage of blubber. On inspecting it, Wild reported that it was ser

llowing of another visit by the ship, it was decided that he should go on a journey overland to recover it. One of the sealers, Hutchinson by name, who had been to Caroline Cove and knew the best route to take

be once more on solid earth! It was out of the question to let them loose, so they were tethered at intervals along a heavy cable, anchored at both ends amongst the tussock-grass. Ninnis took up his abode in the sealers' hut so tha

ans of it the rest of us conveyed ashore several tons of coal briquettes, the

n their lee. All gear for the wireless station was taken to a spot about half a mile to the north-west at the foot of Wireless Hill, where the "flying fox" was situated. Just at that spot there was a landing-place at the hea

re perched here and there amongst the rocks, watching for an opportunity of marauding the nests of the non-predacious birds. Sea elephants raised their massive, dripping heads in shoal and channel. The dark reefs, running out into the pellucid water, supported a vast growth of a snake-like form of kelp, whose octopus-like tentacl

tion in connexion with the "flying fox" k

ther. Leaving Hobart late on December 7, she had anchored off Bruni Island awaiting the moderation of the sea. The journey was resumed on the morning of the 9th, and th

five-ton motor-boat of shallow draugh

of the cargo consisted of coal for the 'Aurora'. This was already partly bagged, and in that form was loaded into the launches and whale-boats; the former towing the latter to their destination. Thus a continuous stream of coal and stores was pass

nterval for lunch. There were twenty-five of the land party available for general wor

to Eitel, who had come thus far and was returning as arran

n going on simultaneously with the un-loading of the ships. Now, however, a

d ashore through the surf. Fortunately, the weather continued to "hold" from an easterly direction, and everything was able to be landed in the comparatively calm waters of Hassel

lenty of work for all. Here was as busy a scene as one could witness anywhere-some with the picks and shovels, others with hammers and nail

st the tussock-grass on the flat, some fifty yards from the head of the boat harbour. For hauling up the loads, a thin wire line, with a pulley-block at either extremity, rolling one on each of the carrying wires, passed round a snatch-block at the upper station. It was of such a length that when the loadin

r of iron lying on the ground about thirty yards in front of the terminus, and attached by a rope with a loose-running noose to the down-carrying wire. On the arrival of the counterpoise at that point on the wire, its speed would be checked owing to the

ier-cables were lashed together making a single support, the hauling being done by a straight pull on the top of the hill. The hauling was carried out to the accompaniment of chanties, and these helped to relieve the strain of the Work. It was a familiar sight to see a string

nd fell, striking the steep rubble slope, to go bounding in great leaps out amongst the grass to the flat below. Marvellous to relate, it was found to have suffered no damage other than a double fracture of the end-plate casting, which could be repaired. And so it was decided to exchange the generators in the two equipments, as there would be greater facilities for engineering work at the Main Base, Adelie Land. Fortunately, the other gen

t some four miles to the south of North-East Bay. From The Nuggets, the trail struck inland up the steep hillsides until the summit of the island was reached; then over pebble-strewn, undulating ground with occasional small lakes, arriving

a fine albatross on the way. This solitary bird was descried sitting on the hill side, several hundreds of feet above sea-level. Its plumage was in such good condition that they could not resist the impulse to secure it for our collection, for the moment not considering the enormous weight to be carrie

gions. The breeding season was at its height, so Harrisson secured and preserved a great number of their eggs. Hutchinson kindly volunteered to carry the albatross in addition to his original load. If they had skinned the bird, the weight would have been materially reduced, but with the meagre appliances at hand, it would undoubtedly have been spoile

ers to be back as soon as possible and were then overdue. When darkness came on, Harrisson was near The Nuggets, where he passed the night amongst the tussock-grass. Hurley and Hutchinson, who were five miles behin

ically impossible for him to walk to the top of the hill, but not to be baffled, he sent the cinematograph machine up by the "flying fox," and then followed

increase our supply of fresh water at The Nuggets, where a stream comes down the hillside on to the beach. In this, however, we were disappointed, for the sea was breaking too heav

to finish off the work on the wireless plant, and to

ine of a submerged reef, the northerly swell was found to be piling up in an ugly manner, and occasioned considerable damage to the launch. This happened as the 'Aurora' swung around; a sea catching the launch and rushing it forward so that it struck the ster

aw-like lever is worked by a gang of men at each extremity, and it takes a long time to get in any considerable length of chain. The chorus and chanty came to our aid once more, and the long hours of heaving on the fo'c'sle head were a bright if strenuous spot in our memories of Macquarie Island. In course of time, during which the ship steamed slowly ahead, the end came in sight-'Vast heaving!-but the anchor was missing. This put us in an awkwa

o Sydney after the fi

re. We were now anxious to get everybody on board and to be off. The completion of their quarters was to be left to the Macquarie Island party, and it w

ld went off with a complement of sturdy oarsmen, including Madigan, Moyes, Watson and Kennedy, and succeeded in bringing off

extreme north-eastern corner of the beach. No time was lost in getting the men and the remainder of the cargo into the boat, though in the darkness this was not easil