Peeps at Many Lands: Egypt

ely new phase of Nile scenery. Cultivation in any large sense has been left behind, and we are now in Nubia, a land

T FROM ELEPHA

ow range of hills across the river, Assuan stretches along the river-bank, its white buildings partly screened by the avenue of palms and lebbek-trees which shade its principal street, while to the north are dense groves of date-

light. In the shops are exposed for sale all those various goods and commodities which native life demands; but visitors are mostly attracted by the stalls of the curio sellers, who display a strange medley of coloured beads and baskets, rich embroideries, stuffed animals, and large quant

ets on their way towards those burning deserts from which so many of them were destined never to return. Those were exciting, if anxious, days for Assuan, and many visitors will remember how, some years ago, the presence of Dervish

end of the town we have our first view of the cataract, and th

the series of rapids and little cascades which give the cataract its name. These little islets are formed by a collection of boulders of red granite filled in with silt, and have a very strange effect, for the boulder

thers are large enough to be partially cultivated, and their little patches of gree

, to the water's edge, those on the east are sun-baked and forbidding, a huge agglomeration of boulders piled one upon the other and partially covered by shingle, which cra

g is a popular feature of European life in Assuan, a special kind of sailing-boat being kept for visitors, who organize

at Gate," as the principal rapid was called, often a difficult matter to

in. It is a mile and a quarter in length, and the river, which is raised in level about 66 feet, pours through a great number

been submerged, while of the date-groves which surrounded them the crests of the higher trees alone appear above water. The

he sound of rushing water the Cataract basin. Above, silence reigns, f

g above water, seem to mourn the little villages and graveyards which lie below, and as

nite boulders, fantastically piled one upon the other, barren and naked

, and more than one village, once populous, lies deserted and ab

rung up to take the place of those submerged. These again present new features to the traveller, for, unlike many we have seen below the cataract, these Nubian dwellings are well built, the mud walls being neatly smoot

monizes so well with the Egyptian scenery as the temple. Whether or not the native unconsciously copies the ancient structure I cannot say, but anyone visiting Egypt mus

exion, while many of the small children, who, excepting for a few strings of beads, run about naked, are extremely beautiful. There is one curious fact about these villages which no one

oyed in Cairo and elsewhere as domestic servants, or "syces,"[6] and though they themselves may not see their ho

Gr

out from the beautiful golden sand-drifts which often pour into the river itself, or in sharp contrast terminate in the brilliant line of green which fringes the banks. All around, their ruggedness softened in the warm light, are the curious, conical mountains of Nubia, a

tially inundating many interesting temples of Roman origin. It seems a pity that so beautiful a temple as Phil? should be lost, and one feels sorry that the villages and palm-groves of Nubia should be destr

nto the air, and whose roar may be heard many miles away, while on the rocky islands down-stream numbers of natives are watching the rushing stream, ready to

ng the barren valley in which the river once flowed-each have their attraction, which varies with the changing light, while many a happy hour may be spent in watching the many coloured lizards which play among the rocks, the curious mantis and twig-insect

the many excursions on donkey-back to visit some tomb or temple, the amusement of bargaining for trophies or curios at the various landing-places, and a host of other interests which go to make the trip up the Nile one of the most fascinating possible, and which prevent any wearine