Seaward Sussex / The South Downs from End to End

said to be the north-western limit of the Selsey Peninsula, one of the most primitive corners of southern England. The few visitors who make use of the light railway to Selsey h

rsions to Christianity in Sussex and, for this reason, a s

years did his opportunity come. Then, despoiled of his northern bishopric, for Wilfrid was a turbulent Churchman, he came prepared, we must suppose, for the reception usually meted out to the saints in those days. The heathen Saxons, however, were now in a different mood, for "no rain had fallen in that province for thre

wed by the breaking of the terrible drought. The fruits of the woods came to feed the bodies of those who had accepted the food of the spirit, and "the King being made pious and gentle by God, granted him (Wilfrid) his own town in which he lived, for a bishop's see, with lands of 87 houses in Sel

hat of the cathedral, now beneath the waves,

ch of but little interest. A mile away on the banks of the disused Chichester and Arundel canal is the strangely named "Manhood End." This is a corruption of Mainwood, and refers to the great forest which once stretched from the Downs to the sea. A rather dull walk westwards past Birdham to West Itchenor, a remote little place on the shores of the creek, is amply repaid by the fine views northwards up the Bosham channel, with the far-flung line of the Downs beyond. (A ferry can be taken from here which would make a short cut to Bosham or Fish

Earnley, which is surely the quietest and most remote hamlet in the kingdom, on the road from nowhere to nowhere; or we may, if impervious to fatigue, follow the beach all the way to Selsey Bill. The settlement is easily approached from Chichester and the South Coast line by the Selsey Tramway (8 miles). The charm of t

especially on the eastern side of the Bill, has been more rapid than on any other part of the coast, except perhaps certain parts of Norfolk. The sea immediately east of S

among its old mossy tombs. Each stone and beam was placed in the same position on the new site. The old chancel at Church Norton contains a battered

h church containing a fine old chest. Note the curious epitaphs within and also on the gravestones in

n the harbour at the time of the incoming tide. The "well" was destroyed by draining operations which also caused the disappearance of large numbers of rare water fowl and aquatic insects, though the naturalist will still be

by a successor to St. Augustine's Chair. Note a slab in the chancel with Lombardic lettering and the old

estored church is a Saxon font and certain curious sculptures may be seen outside the door. From here it is only two miles

ists; it is certainly the most besketched place on the South Coast and is rarely, in fine weather, without one or more easels on its quiet quay. The best loved hours of the day for the painting or sketching fraternity-those of low tide, when every boat lies at a diff

e on that visit which was to have such dire consequences for himself and his line, and such untold results on the history of the nation-to-be. The great Emperor of the North-Knut-was a frequent visitor to the creek in his dragon-prowed barque. His palace, also t

ow stands. The east portions of the chancel are Early English and once formed the chapel of a college founded by William Warlewaste, Bishop of Exeter (1120). Note the figure in the north wall, said to be that of the daughter of Knut who died here while on a visit to Earl Godwin. The effigy is, however, of much later dat

peasant, but looked upon as an idle tale by his educated superior, proved to have more than a grain of truth in it and sometimes to be a very circumstantial record of actualities, and fully supported by

gh festivals of the Church, a Bosham man will tell you, its sound can be heard from the waves mingling with the chimes of the modern bells of the tower. As a matter of fact the echo of the peal, thrown bac

ed Dicul. It was this monk who had converted King Ethelwalch before Wilfrid arrived. The existence of this tiny community in the midst of hostile t

dham with a beautiful little Early English church; the next is occupied by West Thorney. Here is another church of the same period

outside our limits, but we can well make it the startin

ter Harbour. The church has a monument to an ancestor of that Colonel Gunter who took part in the escape of Charles II. Near by is Lordington House, erected by the father of Cardinal Pole and said to be haunted by the ghost of that Countess of Salisbury who

vicinity which is worth a visit for its own sake. Compton, a mile beyond West Marden, has a Transitional Norman church partly rebuilt; this is close to Lady Holt Park, a favourite retreat of Pope; and Up Park, a fine expanse of woodland, where the Carylls once lived; their estates were forfeited for their championship of the Stuarts. The northern end of the park rises

the Portsmouth road, from which it rises with imposing effect on the west of the pass beyond Petersfield. Here the South Downs, so called, may be said to end

as several interesting monuments to members of former local families, including sixteenth century memorials of the Cowper-Coles. Here is buried Lord Grey, who was connected with the Rye House Plot. Notice the embroidery in the reredos, an unusual style; also the fine wooden roof and shorn pillars; the latter detract from the general effect of the interior an

western Downs by the ring fence of dark woods through which we have to pass to reach the bare, wind-swept solitudes and lonely hamlets within them. The northern escarpment and southern flanks of the hills are clothed in vast forests of beech wh

iew of the Downs. From Treyford a bridle-path leads directly south to the summit of Treyford Hill, where are five barrows called "The Devil's Jumps." From here the track running along the top of the Down will bring us in two miles to the bold spurs of Linch Down (818 feet), the finest view-point on the western Downs, the views over the Weald being magnificent in all directions. A track will have been noticed on the west side of the summit, and a return should be made

est. But who shall say what other strange scenes these lonely deeps in the bosom of the hills have witnessed before Saxon or Dane replaced the Celt; who in turn, for all his fierce and arrogant ways, went, by night, in fear and trembling of those spiteful little men he himself displaced, and whose vengeance or pitiful gratitude is perpetuated in the first romances of our childhood. Though their living homes were in the primeval forests of the Britain that

tno

pillars were of an unusual shape. A round colum

sea Peninsula in December, 1919, and one of th

PE

DOWNS FRO

d settlements and those which lie immediately at the foot of the escarpment. For this purpose the order of the book is reversed and the tourist should start at the western or Ha

cking Station via Lynch Down, Beacon

orth and East Marden, 8 miles; on to West Dean, Single

ean, 7 miles (Inn); on by Burton Down and Bignor Hill (Stane St

nn), 5 miles. By the main road to Washington (Inn) and Wiston. Ascend Chanctonbury R

wn to Poynings, round Newtimber Hill to Pyecombe and Wolstonbury, thence by hill road to Ditchling Bea

f Downs to Alfriston, 9 miles (Star Inn); by Lullington to Windover Hill ("Long Man of Wilmington") down to Jevington, 12 mil

HE SOUTH DO

, and penetrate the woody fastnesses of the Weald. In this separate section a short description will be giv

the routes to the south run through a lovely and varied countryside which will repay a leisurely mode of progression. To the writer there is no way of seeing England equal to doing that on foot; h

S BY WESTERHAM

f Westerham (23 miles) pleasantly situated between the North Downs and the sandy hills of the Surrey Weald. It is famous as the birthplace of Wolfe, whose statue adorns the green, around which is grouped the quietly di

h to explore the district eastwards to Hever, Penshurst, and Tonbridge. One mile out of the town we bear left and, in another three, cross the Kent Water into Sussex. In 7? miles the road passes over th

the Dorset family. Only a gateway remains of the ancient Buckhurst mansion, the greate

re of the Forest with occasional wide views betwe

rough, which of late years has become suburban and a second Haslemere. The

with grand forward views over

toups, one within and the other outside the church. This was once an important "Black Country" centre. Local names, such as "The Forge" perpet

spotted over these hills and through these forests, there were forges that roared from morning till night, chimneys that sent up their smoke and their poisonous vapour from one year's end to another; cannon were cast ... where now there is no harsher voice than the t

idst woods. In the Decorated chancel is the brass of Britellus Avenel (1408) and J. de Lewes (1330), by whom the church was founded. Note the old muniment chest in the north aisle and the mortuary chapel of the Earls of Liver

gett and hi

ast the fi

was made of wood, and the Saint, finding that the orientation was not quite true, set his shoulder to the wall and pushed it straight! The visitor will note the fine effect of the raised chancel, the roof of which is composed of a one time gallery. Note, among other objects, the old screen and choir stalls; a squint; font dated 1666; iron slabs in the nave to the Sands (1668 and 1708); monument to T. Aynscombe (1620); chandeliers; and curious east window; and, not least, the glorious view from the churchyard. The Palace of the Archbishops is now a convent: it was restored by Pugin after being in a state of ruin fo

to our register, hereunder they be specified, as we find them: John Hart, Thomas Ravendale, a shoemaker and a carrier, which said four being at the place where they should suffer, after they had

windmill. The village, though not so interesting as Mayfield, is well placed and has a fine Perpendicular church, the spire being a landmark for many miles. Here is an east window by Burne Jones and several other

and Ticehurst belong more naturally to West Kent than East Sussex. These three beautiful villages and

ist, especially the house called "Rampyndens." Burwash is connected with the Rev. J. Cocker Egerton, to whom reference has already been made. From the natives of this particular district was gleaned that record of rustic humour which makes the Sussex peasant depicted in his writings so real to those who know him. The village has lately become the home of

had been hiding at Newick Farm; gaining confidence he came out for a game of bowls and met his end while playing. Heathfield old village and church are off the main road to the left; our route passes the railway station and

d stone house in front of the "King's Head" was once the village lock-up. A picturesque outcrop of the Hastings sandston

rough the best part of the Ouse valley; nearly half-way and on

). The church here has the Pelham buckle as a dripstone. Note the Norman piscina. In fi

mhouse; the position of the chapel is shown by some arches built into the wall. The interior has a fine cowled fireplace and Early E

Cuckmere and turns sharp to the

show the visitor and is not particularly picturesque. The immediate surroundings of the road are tame until we enter the woodlands, which su

RD BY EAST GRIN

e crossed between Gravelly hill (Water Tower) and Marden Castle, followed by a long descent to Godstone (20 m.), built around a charming green with a fine old inn ("Clayton Arms") on the left. A lane at the side of the i

ng church, once collegiate. Note misererie seats and choir screen (fifteenth century)

igh Street. The church, though of imposing appearance from a distance, is, on closer acquaintance, disappointing; the fabric dating from 1790. Note an iron tomb slab (1570). Not far from the church is the Jacobean Sackvil

ar characteristics of the Hastings sands are here seen to the best advantage. These high sandy moors, covered with glorious stretches of bracken and heather, here and there clothed in dense growths of oak

e follows a long coast down to Danehill, where th

ts quaint and attractive architecture of the humbler sort. The Early English church has been well restored and beautified by the Earl of Sheffield, whose estate lies to the west. Gibbon the historian lies in the Sheffield mausoleum. Note the old glass in the small lancet windows; this was buried in the chu

straight forward to Chailey (43? m.) with occasional views ahead of the Lewes Downs. Passing Chailey pott

ease (54 m.) enters Newhaven and crosses the Ouse there. The alternative road crosses the

ighton (

rd (5

RIGHT

the lover of nature or the tourist of an antiquarian turn. Distances are reckoned from Westminster Bridge ("Big Ben"). After Kennington comes a two-mile ascent from Brixton to Streatham and then

lar church. The town is pleasant and pi

h Downs to Redhill (20 m.); a busy railw

from Horley we pass into Sussex and shortly reach Crawley (29? m.). Decorated church. Note

e remaining which is complete in its ground plan. Notice the typical band of stones supported by pillars which runs round the building; also the curious double font

ote the fine retrospect when ap

Underneath the tower will be seen two iron grave slabs. Within the church notice the Geometrical windows and the triple sedilia. The village is picturesque and well placed, and the local "lion"-"Great upon

hould be visited for the sake of the magnificent woodland views; in the distance are the south Downs visible from Butser Hill behind Portsmou

evously wounded, and where his blood fell now grow the lilies of the valley, common here but nowhere else in the neighbourhood. Headless horsemen, who have an unpleasant habit of sharing the benighted tra

he road culminating at Handcross, 504 feet (33? m.). The

ght, is Slaugham ("Slaffam") with a De

or as some authorities declare, Saxon features. The Norman south door, cov

te monuments and handsome reredos. Cuckfield Place is the original of "Rookwood," but has been "improved" out of its ancient cha

(1 m.), beautiful views of the South Down

on (4

(front

ORSHA

pham Common, Tooting and Merton to Cheam (11? m.) Ewell and

ht

uburban. The Perpendicular church contains interesting windows. The scenery now greatly improv

ndstone hills of the Weald. In the shallow depression between the two ranges lies Dorking (23? m.). The town is pleasant but has nothing of much interest for the visitor. It is for its fine situation from a scenic point of view and as a convenient headquarters from which to explore the best o

until we cross the Sussex boundary, about half a mile beyond the railway bridge. Kingsfold (3

ent font. The old "Causeway," which leads to the church from Carfax, as the centre of the town is called, should be more popular with artists than it is. The wonderful colour of some of the Horsham roofs will be noticed; this is due to the local stone with which the older roofs are covered. It seems a pity from an aesthetic point of view that the quarries are no longer used. The great weight of the covering had another advantage, it

HOREH

ds fine views of the town and the surrounding Weald. To the right may be di

oak seats bear the names of the farms to whose occupants they have from time immemorial belonged. Behind the altar of the north nave is an aumbry, and in the roof above is a cover once used for suspending the canopy over the Host. There are several interesting monuments including two altar tombs in the Burrell chantry with fine fifteenth century brasses. Note the font

e of exiled French monks since 1877. Visitors are very courteously shown over the greater part of the building, which is of much interest and contains several

h's Monastery (above). Partridge Green station (44? m.), Ashurst (46? m.), with an Early English church.

ng (49

er (5

reham (

ORTHI

south-west to Dial Post (43? m.), and so with striking vie

n (51

ater (

ng (55

EL-CHICHE

m road nearly two miles sout

ey's childhood and youth. The poet was born at Field

ge Heath

n the Roman "Stane Street" fr

n and Perpendicular church. N

dentifies the mound on which the church is built as being the site of a temple dedicated to Woden (Wisc or "Wish"). Restoration brought to light early Norman (perhaps Saxo

ane (4

ough (

(50

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at 1? m. past

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ROAD VIA GUILDF

n (12 m.). Here we bear left past the King's stone and then by way of the river bank through Thames Ditton

y (23

Abbott's Hospital (1619), the Guildhall with projecting clock (1683); St. Mary's church, Norman and Early English. Note paintings in north chapel. St. Nicholas' Church has been mostly rebuilt. Our road turns left just beyond the Wey bridge and p

tury saw a colonization of the slopes of Hindhead, with the attendant outbreak of red brick, which has almost completely spoilt the neighbourhood. Branch excursions may be made towards the Hampshire border and to Chid

bout two miles in each direction with woodland most of the way. The view from the summit is magnifice

ing magnificent views of Blackdown. A steep descent, then a

54 m.). S

ean (5

ster (

WAY

BOURNE BY OXTE

Bridges and Lewes. After Croydon the long ascent between the northern slopes of the Surrey Downs extend

idge (

ve

ge (35? m.) (a good centre from which to explore north-east Sussex). Rotherfield. Mayfield (sc

RD BY EAST GRIN

ng headquarters.) West Hoathly (34 m.). (Ashdown Forest left). Horst

TON BY REDHILL

he left of this station (fine views). Horley. Gatwick (race-course, right). A long climb over the Forest Ridge followed by a drop to the Ouse viaduct (St. Saviour's College, Ardingle

SHOREHAM A

attains much beauty. Dorking (26? m.). Holmwood (31? m.) (Leith Hill, right, conspicuous by its tower). Capel. Horsham (40? m.). Christ's Hospital (left). Southw

ARUNDEL AN

Midhurst). Views (left) of the long escarpment of the Downs. Villages on the Arun (right). Amberley Castle

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