Wild Wales: Its People, Language and Scenery

eautiful Morning-Noble Fellow-The Coiling Serpent-

better able to see the country, between Chester and Llangollen, than by making the journey by the flying vehicle. As I returned to the inn from the train I took refuge from a shower in one of the rows or covered streets, to which, as I have alre

hear you translate the two

a Welshma

" he r

nes which were a couplet by Edmund Price, an old archdea

as an Englishman was evidently offended, either because he did not believe me, or,

of the legion, the appropriate ancient British name for the place now called Chester,

hester of Welsh parents, and brought up in the fear of God and love of the Welsh tongue. That there were some who had never been in Wales, who spoke as good Welsh as herself, or better. That the Welsh of Chester were of various religious persuasions; that some were Baptists, some Independents, but that the greater part were Calvinistic-Meth

their way of life, and, likewise, as they had so strongly desired it, to give them a little Christian comfort, for my conscience reproached me for my abrupt departure on the preceding

appy-and no wonder; the morning was beautiful, the birds sang merrily, and a sweet smell proceeded from the new-cut hay in the fields, and I was bound for Wales. I passed over the river Allan and through two villages called, as I was told, Pulford a

d, stopped to breathe his team on the top of the hill; "you may well look around-there isn't such a plac

ix feet two inches high, immensely broad in the shoulders, and could hardly have weighed less th

born t'other side of Beest

re are few Welshmen such

I am a bit of a fighter, Measter, at least I was before my wife made me join the Methodist connection, and I once fit with a Welshman at Wrexham, he came from the hills, and was a real Welshman, and shorter th

I, "and a credit to Cheshire. W

at Pulford, and shall be glad to d

he hill on one side, while he, with

called the Saxon race the Coiling Serpent. He had better have called it the Big Bull. He was a noble poet, however: what wonderful

ent whi

th fur

oming with arm

ue and sha

ad Brit

lin ocean to

Briti

e capti

s from Saxo

raise their

nguage a

Wales they shall

he top. I wished to see the interior of the church, but found the gate locked. Observing a group of idlers close at hand with their backs against a wall, I went up to them, and, addressing myself to one, inquired whether I could see the church. "Oh yes, sir," said the man; "the clerk who has the key lives close at hand; one of us shall go and fetch him-by-the-bye, I may as well go myself." He moved slowly away. He was a large bulky man of about the middle age, and his companions were about the same age and size as himself. I asked them if they were Welsh. "Yes, sir," said one, "I suppose we are, for they call us Welsh." I asked if any of them could speak Welsh. "No, sir," said the man, "all the Welsh that any of us know, or indeed wish to know, is 'Cwrw da.'" Here there was a general laugh. Cwrw da signifies good ale. I at first thought that the words might be intended as a hint for a treat, but was soon convinced of the contrary. There was no greedy expectation in his eyes, nor, indeed, in those of his companions, though they all loo

dily took a southerly direction. I moved rapidly over an undulating country; a region of hills, or rather of mou

lsh or Engl

I speak both languages, a

but an ancient church. My way from hence lay nearly west. I ascended a hill, from the top of which I looked down into a smoky valley. I descended, passing by a great many collieries, in which I observed grimy men working amidst smoke and flame. At the bottom of the hill near a bridge I turned round. A

o myself; "I now feel I am in Wales

plied-which signifi

replied, and pro

ng with hazel bushes. I walked along it to its termination which was at Llangollen. I found my wife and daughter at the principal inn. They had already taken a house. We dined toge