Walks in Rome

amo degli Schiavoni)-S. Giacomo degli Incurabili-Via Vittoria-Mausoleum of Augustus-S. Carlo in Corso-Via Condotti-Palazzo Borghese-Palazzo Ruspoli-S. Lorenzo in Lucina-S. Sylvestro in Capite-

Colonna-Church of SS. Apostoli-Palazzo Savorelli-Palazzo Buonaparte-Palazzo di Ven

ancient Rome; but as he will go down to the Corso to do this, and must daily pass most of its surrou

Capitol, beyond which lies ancient Rome; the Babuino, on the left, leading to the Piazza di Spagna and the English quarter; the Ripetta, on the right, leading to the Castle of

nt d'un effet médiocre. Comment un cardinal n'a-t-il pas senti qu'il ne faut pas élever une é

by some of the best Roman Catholic controversialists, just at the right moment for catching

who died at Puteoli B.C. 82, but was honoured at Rome with a public funeral, at w

te by Sixtus V. in 1589, but was originally brought to Rom

the nations by the eclipse of his divine countenance." ... Therefore, "besides building a temple to Apollo on the Palatine hill, the Emperor Augustus sought to honour him by transplanting to the Circus Maximus, the sports of which were under his special protection, an obelisk from Heliopolis, in

able character, when we think that this indestructible monument supplied one of the recollections which Moses and the Israelites bore from Egypt into the desert. Perchance, on beholding the cloudy pillar and fiery column, they whispered awe-stricken to one another, 'In its shape

ot of what was even then called "the Hill o

e stuff, embroidered with gold, deposited them in the Domitian monument, which is seen in the Campus-Martius under the Hill o

bourhood. In the eleventh century, Pope Paschal II. dreamt that these crows were demons, and that the Blessed Virgin commanded him to cut down and burn the tree ("albero malnato"), and b

Alexander VII. (Fabio Chigi, 1655-67), of whom it was the family burial-place, but it still retains many fragments of beautiful fiftee

most beautiful frescoes in the city; in the lunettes are scenes from the life of St. Jerome. Cardinal Christoforo della Rovere, who built this chapel and dedicated it to "the Virgin and St. Jerome," is buried on th

asper, has an altarpiece representing the Assumption of the Virgin, by Carl

enes in the life of the Virgin;-that of the Virgin studying in the Temple, a very rare subject, is especially beautiful. In a frieze round the lower part of the wall

incent. On the right is the tomb of Marc-Antonio Albertoni, ob. 1485; on the left, that of Cardinal Costa, of Lisbo

h century work. A door near this leads into a cloister, where is preserved, over a door, the Gothic altar-piece of the chur

ry, Ambrose, Jerome, and Augustine. Beneath are the tombs of Cardinal Ascanio Sforza, and Cardinal Girolamo Basso, nephews of Sixtus IV. (Francesco della Rovere), beautiful works of Andrea di Sansovino.

regory IX., and which, having been "successfully invoked" by Gregory XIII., in the great plague of 1578, has ever since been annually adored by the

inal Bernardino Lonati, with a fine fift

which represents an extraordinary mixture of Paganism and Christianity, Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn (as the planets), conducted by angels, being represented with and surrounding Jehovah; and he modelled the beautiful statue of Jonah seated on the whale, which was sculptured in the marble by Lorenzetto. The same artist sculptured the figure of Elijah,-thos

teenth century ciboria, and the tomb

e top is his portrait while living, inscribed, "Neque hic vivus"; then a medallion of a chrysalis, "In nidulo meo moriar"; opposite to which is a medallion

ing into the chrysalis-shell in which the spirit lives till its being is developed, and it bur

his arrival, after he had prostrated himself upon the earth, saying, "Hail sacred Rome! thrice sacred for the blood of the martyrs

s, au lieu d'un de ces temples rustiques qui n'ont dans sa patrie pour tout ornement que quelques roses qu'une main pieuse va déposer sur l'autel le jour du dimanche. Est-il fatigué de la route? il trouve sur son chemin, non plus un modeste banc de bois, mais un siège d'albatre antique récemment déterré. Cherche-t-il une sainte image? il n'aper?oit que des fantaisies pa?ennes, des divinités olympiques, Apollon, Vénus, Mars, Jupiter, auxquelles travaillent mille mains de sculpteurs. De toutes ces merveilles, il ne comprit

and magnates of Rome met to receive the apostate C

ed with cypresses and pines. A winding road, lined with mimosas and other flowering shrubs, leads to the upper platform, now laid out in

arks the sea melting into the horizon beyond Ostia. All these churches and tall palace roofs become more than mere

ndeur of St. Peter's hides itself behind the immensity of its separate parts, so that we only see the front, only the sides, only the pillared length and loftiness of the portico, and not the mighty whole. But at this distance the entire outline of the world's cathedral, as well as that of the palace of the world's chief priest, is taken in at once. In such remoteness, moreover, the imagination is n

bes as "a fashionable halo of sunset and pink parasols"-when immense crowds collect, showing every phase of Roman life; and disperse again as

ed not a little ludicrous by the miniature representation of the Ring in Hyde Park in a small compass. An entire revolution of the carriage-drive is performed in the short period of three minutes as near as may be, and the perpetual occu

nt so skilfully, and bounded it with the parapet of the city wall; who laid out those broad walks and drives, and overhung them with the shade of many kinds of tree; who scattered the flowers of all seasons, and of every clime, abundantly over those smooth, central lawns; who scooped out hollows in fit places, and setting great basons of marble in them, caused ever-gushing fountains to fill them to the brim; who reared up the immemorial obelisk out of the soil that had long hidden it; who placed pedestals along the

rought her, for a cure, into a climate that instils poison into its very purest breath. Here, all day, come nursery maids, burdened with rosy English babies, or guiding the footsteps of little travellers from the far western world. Here, in the sunny afternoon, roll and rumble all kinds of carriages, from the Cardinal's old-fashioned and gorgeous purple carriage to the gay barouche of modern date. Here horsemen gallop on thorough-bred steeds. Here, in short, all the transitory pop

ught from Egypt, and which the late discoveries in hieroglyphics show to have been erected there, in the jo

n we look down upon the strange frag

chèrent, affirmant que ce point n'était pas exposé, parce que Saint Pierre avait promis de le défendre. Procope ajoute: 'Personne n'a osé réparer ce mur, et il reste encore dans le même état.' Nous pouvons en dire autant que Procope, et le mur, détaché de la colline à laquelle il s'appuyait, reste encore incliné et semble près de tomber. Ce

ther. In the blue distance rise Soracte, and other heights, which have gleamed afar, to our imagination, but look scarcely real to our bodily eyes, because, being dreamed about so much, they have taken the aerial tints which belong only to a dream. These, nevertheless, are the solid

occupied by the famous villa of Lucullus, who had gained h

g frivolous amusements, I cannot but reckon his sumptuous villas, walks, and baths; and still more so the paintings, statues, and other works of art which he collected at immense expense, idly squandering away upon

pey, merely mentioning to a slave beforehand that he should sup in the hall of A

condemned to death, "Asiaticus declined the counsel of his friends to starve himself, a course which might leave an interval for the chance of pardon; and after the lofty fashion of the ancient Romans, bathed, perfumed, and supped magnificently, and th

whom, Silius, she had actually gone through the religious rites of marriage in the lifetime of the emperor, who was absent at Ostia. But a conspiracy amo

elf, with her hair loose and disordered, brandished the thyrsus in the midst, and Silius by her side, buskined and crowned with ivy, tossed his head to the flaunting strains of Silenus and the Satyrs. Vettius, one, it seems, of the wanton's less fortunate paramours, attended the ceremony, and

and long-accustomed insolence still faintly struggled into her fears. The emperor still paltered with the treason. He had retired to his palace; he had bathed, anointed, and lain down to supper; and, warmed with wine and generous cheer, he had actually despatched a message to the poor creature, as he called her, bidding her come the next day, and plead her cause before him. But her enemy Narcissus, knowing how easy might be the passage from compassion to love, glided from the chamber, and boldly ordered a tribune and some centurions to go and slay his victim. 'Such,' he said, 'was the emperor's command'; and his word was obeyed without hesitation. Under the direction of the freedman Euodus, the armed men sought the outcast in her gardens, where she lay prostrate on the ground, by the side of her mother Lepida. While their fortunes flourished, dissensions had existed between the two; but now, in her last distress, the mother had refused to desert her child, and only strove to nerv

ano by Annibale Lippi in 1540. Shortly afterwards it passed into the hands of the Medici family, and was greatly enlarged by Cardinal Alessandro de Medici, afterwards Leo

errace, which looks down upon the Villa Borghese, is bordered by ancient sarcophagi, and has a co

ui, s'étendent devant la villa et laissent courir la vue jusqu'au mont Soracte, qui ferme l'horizon. A gauche, quatre fois quatre carrés de gazon s'encadrent dans de hautes murailles de lauriers, de buis gigantesques et de chênes verts. Les murailles se rejoignent au-dessus des allées et les enveloppent d'une ombre fra?che et mystérieuse. A droite, une terrasse d'une style noble encadre un bois de chênes verts, tordus et eventrés par le temps. J'y vais quelquefois travailler à l'ombr

ys, with long vistas, overshadowed by ilex-trees; and at each intersection of the paths the visitor finds seats of lichen-covered stone to repose upon, and marble statues that look forlornly at him, regretful of their lost noses. In the more open portions

; a tiny wood of ancient ilexes, from which a steep flight of s

se gloomy shade effectually shut out the radiant sunshine that still illuminated the western sky. They th

stone pines rising dark to the right. Behind, close at hand, were sombre ilex woods, amid which rose here and there the spire of a cypress or a ruined arch, an

familiar to artists, of a fountain shaded by il

nvirons du Forum. Cependant nous avons tout près de nous la colonne Antonine et la mausolée d'Adrien. La vue est fermée agréablement par les pins de la villa Pamphili, qui reunissent leurs larges parasols et font comme une table à mille pieds pour un repas de géants. L'horizon fuit à gauche à des distances infinies; la plaine est nue, onduleuse et bleue comme la mer. Mais si je vous mettais en présence d

e Trinità de' Monti, erected here in 1822 by Pius VII.,

with persons kneeling, lit up by the sinking sun each time that the door is opened; both the singing nuns have the sweetest voices in the world, quite tender and touching, more especially when one of them sings the responses in her melodious voice, which we are accustomed to hear chaunted by priests in a loud, harsh, monotonous tone. The impression is very singular; moreover, it is well known that

nds like the singing of angels. One sees in the choir troops of young scholars, moving with sl

e request of S. Francesco di Paola. At the time of the French revolution it was plunder

of Daniele da Volterra, declared by Nicholas Poussin to be the third picture i

so reverently gaze upon; the mother of the Lord in a swoon amidst her afflicted companions; the disciple whom he loved standing with outstretched arms, absorbed in contemplating the mysterious spectacle. The truth in the representation of the exposed parts of the body appears to be nature itself. The colouring of the heads and of the whole picture accords precisely with the su

skill. Here are four ladders against the cross, stalwart figures standing, ascending, and descending upon each, so that the space between the cross and the ground is absolutely alive with magnificent lines. The Virgin lies on one side, and is like a grand cr

ith frescoes of his school. The sixth has frescoes of the school of Perugino. The frescoes in the right transept are by F. Zuccaro and

inherit her property, except about 1000l., which goes to the convent. The nuns are allowed to retain no personal property, but if they wish still to have the use of the

that of Nicholas Poussin; that at the angle of the two streets, called the Tempietto, was once inhabited by Claude Lorraine. The adjoining house (64 Sistina)-formerly known as Palazzo della Regina di Polonia, from Maria Casimira, Queen of Poland, who resided

g of Josep

Potiphar's

ph and his Bret

Lean Years

s the Dreams in

g Joseph's Coat t

the Dreams of Ph

Plentiful

name from the mutilated figure on a fountain halfway down. On the right is the Gr

te. The ceremonies appear to be more stately, more severe, more significant, and at

Margutta, almost entirely inha

ant; and the perspective is frequently damaged by rows of linen suspended across the road from window to window. Unsightly as they are, however, these obstacles in no wise affect the popularity of the Via Margutta, either as a residence for the artist, or a lounge for the amateur. Fashionab

so is situated th

e muscles. Ranges of benches, raised one above the other, occupy the remainder of the room; and if you were to look in at about eight o'clock on a winter's evening, you would find them tenanted by a multitude of young artists, mostly in their shirt sleeves,

di?val dresses; during the winter and carnival, Italian costumes of the present day; a

ecure the same attitude on the second evening. Consequently, four hours are allowed for each drawing.... The pieghe are only for a single time, as it would be impossible to secure the same folds twice over.... The expense of attending t

ted. Hence the Trinità is reached by a magnificent flight of steps (disgracefully ill kept), which was built by Alessandro

far niente.' Beppo, the celebrated lame beggar, is no longer to be seen there, having been banished to the steps of the Church of St. Agostino; but there is old Felice, with conical hat, brown cloak, and bagpipes, father of half the models on the steps. He has been seen in an artist's studio in Paris, and is reported to have performed on foot the double journey between Rome and that capital. There are two or three younger men in blue jackets and

htmares. I soon found that we had made acquaintance, and improved it, for several years, on the walls of various Exhibition Galleries. There is one old gentleman with long white hair, and an immense beard, who, to my knowledge, has gone half-through the catalogues of the Royal Academy. This is the venerable or patriarchal model. He carries a long staff; and every knob and twist in that staff I have seen, faithfully delineated, innumerable times. There is another man in a blue cloak, who always pretends to be asleep in the sun (when there is any), and who, I need not say, is always very wide awake, and very attentive to the disposition of his legs. This is the dolce far niente model. Ther

d in a blaze of golden glory, stands the great dome of St. Peter's: and from the terrace of the Villa Medici you can see the who

by a kind of theatre, which once occupied the site of this piazza. In front of the Palazzo di Spagna (the residence of the Spanish ambassador), which gives its name to the square, stands a Column

as the centre of the English quarter,

ts at Rome perforce become intimate, and in many cases friendly. They have an English library where the various meets for the week are placarded: on such a day the Vatican galleries are open; the next is the feast of Saint so-and-so; on Wednesday there will be music and vespers at the Sistine Chapel; on Thursday the pope wi

who built the present edifice from plans of Bernini. Like all the buildings erected by this pope, its chief decorati

gestion of the great preacher Girolamo da Narni that the idea was first conceived of extending the above-named institution. At his suggestion, a congregation was established in all due form, and by this body regular meetings were to be held for the guidance and conduct of missions in every part of the world. The first funds were advanced by Gregory; his nephew contributed from his private property; and since this

les infidéles et les hérétiques; ils y font leur education religieuse et civile,

anciscains à la sauce rousse. Le capucin en daube, se mange aussi comme le renard, quand il a été gelé. Il y a à la Propagande une bibliothèque, une imprimerie fournie

s are recited by the pupils in all their differe

a large building belonging to the Academy of St. Luke, we reach, on the right, t

r's (by Porta Angelica) through the fields at the back of S. Angelo. Thes

de, either digging a trench or ploughing, but certainly occupied in some field labour. The salutation, 'May it be well with you and the republic,' was given and returned in the usual form, and he was requested to put on his toga to receive a message from the senate. Amazed, and a

first, SS. Rocco e Martino, built 1657, by An

ty to wear a veil, so as to remain unknown even to their attendants, in order to save the honour of their families, and prevent abortion, suicide, or infanticide. Even should death ensue, the deceased remains unknown. The children are conveyed to Santo Spirito; and the mother who wishes to retain her offspring, affixe

or Sixtus V. by Fontana. It contains, near the altar, a strik

uced a striking effect. It follows the line of the ancient Via Flaminia, and in consequence was once spanned by four triumphal arches-of Marcus Aurelius, Domitian, Claudius, and Gordian-but all these have disappeared. The Corso is perfectly lined with balconies, which, during the carniv

es, to almost every house-not on one story alone, but often to one room or another on every story-put there in general with so little order or regularity, that if, year after year, an

urch of S. Giacomo degli Incurabili, by Carlo Maderno. It is attached to a surgical hospital for 350 patients. In the

s of papal portraits, now destroyed, which formerly existed on the walls of one of it

ed with cypresses. These stages were pierced with numerous chambers, destined to receive, row within row, and story upon story, the remains of every member of the imperial family, with many thousands of their slaves and freedmen. In th

ctavia, the sister of Augustus, and first husband of h

vir?m magnam M

itus! vel qu?,

mulum pr?terla

ca quisquam d

ollet avos; nec

um tellus ja

prisca fides,

li se quisquam

seu quum pedes

equi foderet c

puer! si qua fa

cellus

, vi.

and nights, before it cooled sufficiently for them to collect the ashes of the emperor. At the moment of its being lighted an eagle was let loose from the summit of the pyre, under which form a senator, named Numerius Atticus, was induced, by a gift from Livia equivalent to 250,000 francs, to swear that he saw the spirit of Augustus fly away to heaven. Then came Germanicus, son of the first Drusus, and nephew of Tiberius, ob. A.D. 19, at Antioch, where he was believed to have been poisoned by Piso and his wife Plancina. Then, in A.D. 23, Drusus, son of Tiberius, poisoned by his wife, Livilla, and her lover, Sejanus: then the empress, Livia, who died A.D. 29, at the age of 86. Agrippina, widow of Germanicus (ob. A.D. 33), starve

ng for two days at S. Marcello, was ordered to be burnt here by Jugurta and Sciaretta, and was consumed by a vast multitude of Jews (out of fl

ssive cells a poor washerwoman, known as "Sister Rose," established, some ten years ago, a kind of hospital for aged women (several of them centagenarians), whom she supported entirely by her own exertio

is street (founded by Camilla Borghese in the seventeenth century) Madame Victoire and Madame Ad

ommenced by Lunghi in 1614, and finished by Pietro da Cortona. It contains no objects of interest, unless a picture of the Apotheosis of S. Carlo

ches off to the Piazza di Spagna. The Trinità de' Monti is seen beyond it. The opposit

finished by Paul V. (Camillo Borghese, 1605-21), from those of Flaminio Ponzio. The

ome and the most beautiful villas in the neighbourhood. He loaded his nephews with presents; we have a list of them through his whole reign down to the year 1620. They are sometimes jewels or vessels of silver, or magnificent furniture, which was taken directly from the stores of the palace and sent to the nephews; at other times carriages, rich arms, as muskets and falconets, were presented to them; but

borne by the luoghi di monte, which they purchased with the money thus acquired. In many other parts of the ecclesiastical states, the Borghese also seated themselves, the pope facilitating their doing so by the grant of peculiar privileges. In some places, for example, they received the r

avec le pape de magnificence et de générosité. Or, chaque année, Paul V. distribuait un million d'écus d'or aux pélerins pauvres et un million et demi aux autres nécessiteux. C'est à lui que remonte la fondation de la ba

ches above. The picture-rooms open from one into another, and have many points of magnificence, being large and lofty, with vaulted ceilings and beautiful frescoes, generally of mythological subjects, in the flat central parts of the vault. The cornices are gilded; the deep embrasures of the windows are panelled with wood-work; the doorways are of polished and varie

9 to 2, except on Saturdays and Sundays. The gallery is entered from the side of the palace towards the Pi

ools of Milan

ily: Sandro

ily: Lorenz

ly: Paris Al

t: Lorenzo

hool of Leona

etrarch a

tha: School

Christ: Scho

a: School

l as a boy

a: Frances

ario: C.

ebastian:

ry of Joseph:

ch attributed to R

onio: Franc

epio: Ma

of the Child J

nd St. Thoma

Family: P

fly of the sch

t. Joseph and St.

over the dead Ch

ius II.: Giulio Rom

Cardinal: Bronzino

divin' amore': Sc

Borgia: Bronzino, attr

f a (naked) wo

mily: Andre

mbment:

Baglioni for a chapel in S. Francesco de' Conventuali at Perugia. Paul V. bought it for the

t is to blame for this, by bringing them rudely in contact with their precious burden. Nothing can be finer than their figures, or more satisfactory than their labour, if we forget what it is they are carrying; but it is the weight of the burden only, and n

amily: Fra

nna: Fr.

donna:

hen: Frances

n of the Mag

sepio:

a: Copy of Rapha

st in the Wilderne

rto. (The works of this painter are often confou

ing the Cross:

ait: Par

e tangere'

eress Circe:

Dolorosa

mily: Schoo

ild with three chi

ild, and St. Jo

St. John, and St. El

a

mily: Pieri

nd Cupids:

ae: Cor

ture are the celebrated C

de' Medici

Magdalene: Sch

Family: P

lation: Sebast

Magdalene:

-Bolognes

ment: Ann

Sibyl: Dom

Francis:

oseph: Gu

ancis: Ann

menic: Ann

nna: Car

Dolorosa:

ds for an Annun

f Christ:

nna: Sas

Ro

The Four Seaso

rs, floating above, poured water upon it. In Summer, they flew about among the tree-branches, which were loaded with fruit, which they plucked; they swam in the fresh water, and played with it. Autumn brought the pleasures of the chase. Cupid sits, with a torch in his hand, in his little chariot, which two of his companions draw; while Love b

a di Diana:

tion, with Ang

Ro

the Prodigal

G. Ghislieri: P

s with the Child

eting the Dreams i

Man. Copy from Titia

nna: Sas

?neas from T

s, painted with Cupids by Girofiri, an

ortance, except a mosaic portrait

ning several int

ls of Alexand

ls of Vertumn

ersaglio

of Rome in 1849), and are supposed to have been painted by some of Raphael's pupils from his designs. The other f

h R

ndfolded by

: School

rait: P

the head of Gol

ist preaching (unfini

Domenic:

ait: Giac

nd Profane Lo

attire; both are sitting on the brink of a well, into which a little winged Love is groping, apparently to find his lost dart.... Description can give no idea of the consummate beauty of this composition. It has all Titian's matchless warmth of

in deep meditation, as if solving some difficult question. The other is unclothed; a red drapery is falling behind her, while she exhibits a form of the utmost beauty and delicac

na: Giov.

and Damian: Ve

.-Verones

?) and St. Augustine:

eaching to the Fi

onna:

upid on Dolphin

upper: And

other of Zebedee's C

the Prodigal S

mson:

Woman taken in Ad

and Saints:

introduced-the head of the man

it of Hims

ait: Giov

nd St. Peter:

amily: Pal

y of Licini da Pordenone:

Dutch and G

fixion:

mbment:

n Scene:

rior: B

of Bavaria:

trait:

e and Horses

-piece: Pa

trait:

g (in brow

trait:

it: Lucas

nd Cupid: L

ended as a dower-house for the family, is now let in apartments. It is thi

poli, built by Ammanati in 1586. It has a grand white marble staircase erecte

hazar Peruzzi, qui les ont batis, sont des ma?tres qu'on ne se lasse pas d'étudier. La magnificence de ces palais reside principalement dans leur architecture et dans les collections artistiques que quelques-uns contiennent. Un certain nombre sont malheureusement dans un triste état d'abandon. De plus, à l'exception d'un très petit nombre, ils sont restés inachevés. Cela se con?oit; pr

ts entrance, a curious statue of "Calumny" by Bernini, with

of S. Lorenzo in Lucina, founded in the fifth century, but rebuilt in its present form b

heretical; but when in the act of sporting with another creature, her benignity towards the neophyte and the docile. At the portal of St Lorenzo in Lucina, this ide

seen against a wild, stormy sky. Niccolas Poussin, ob. 1660, is buried here, and one of his best known Arcadia

rymis, vivit Pu

derat, nesci

silet; si vis a

tabulis vivit,

this church is the scene of Pompilia's b

t. Loren

cular place,

er, when I sto

e, what the ma

igure of a p

nts are represented as bein

ath th

ido Reni, Ch

ught observa

umphal arch of Marcus Aurelius, which existed here till that time. The magnificence of this arch is attested by the bas-reliefs repre

t de presque tout ce que le temps avait épargné. Il y'avait, par exemple, au commencement du XVIe. siècle, quatre arcs de triomphe qui n'existent plus; le dernier, celui de Marc Aurele, a été enlevé par le pape Alexandre

medi?val campanile. The day of St. Sylvester's death, December 31 (A.D. 335), is kept here with great solemnity, and is celebrated by magnificent musical services. This pope was buried in the cemetery of Priscilla, whence hi

1525, when widowed in her thirty-sixth year, and here she began to write her sonnets, a kind of "In Memoriam," to her husband. It is a curious proof of the value placed upon her remaining in the world, that Pope Clement VII. was per

elle Fratte, whose brick cupola by Borromini is so picturesque a feature. The bell-tower beside it swings when the bells are rung. In the second chapel on the right

est converti subitement. Il se trouvait debout en face d'une chapelle dédiée à l'ange gardien, à quelques pas, lorsque tout-à-coup il a eu une apparition lumineuse de la Sainte Vierge qui lui a fait signe d'aller vers cette chapelle. Une force irrésis

come in se raccolta tutta la luce, e di mezzo di raggianti splendori s' è mostrata diritta sull'altare, grande, sfolgoreggiante, piena di maestà, e di dolcezza, la Vergine Maria. Una forza irresisti

th the altar where this vision occurred. In the third chapel on the left is the tomb of Angelica Kauffmann; in the right aisle that

o the pretty little church of that name, adjoining the Pa

526 by Giacomo della Porta, and finished by Carlo Maderno. It contai

papal throne as Alexander VII., and who long refused to have anything to do with the aggrandisement of his family, saying that the poor were the only relations he would acknowledge, and, like

of the Emperor Hadrian,-husband of his niece, Annia Faustina,-father of the Emperor Commodus). It is surrounded by bas-reliefs, representing the conquest of the Marcomanni. One of these has long been an especial object of interest, from being supposed to represent a divinity (Jupiter?) sending rain to the troops, in answer to the prayers of a Christian legion from M

mn of Antoninus Pius, the pedestal of which may still be seen in the Vatican garden. Its hieroglyphics are very perfect and valuable, and show that it was erected more than 600 years before Christ,

ret: digna cognitu res et ingenio f?cundo. Manilius mathematicus apici auratam pilam addidit, cujus umbra vertice colligeretur in se ipsa alias enormiter jaculante apice ratione (ut ferunt) a capite hominis intellecta. H?c observatio triginta jam ferè annos non congruit, sive solis ipsius dissono cursu, et c?li aliqua r

public offices connected with police, passports, &c. On the opp

ng columns of the Temple of Neptune, built up by Innocent XII. into the walls of the modern Custom-house. It is worth while to enter the cour

ite church, Sta. Maria in Aquiro, recalls by its name the column of the Equiria, celebrated in ancient annals as the place where certain games and horse-races,

eet which turns off hence, under an arch (Via de Muratte, on the left), leads to the Fountain of T

ight soothes into better taste than is native to them. And, after all, it is as magnificent a piece of work as ever human skill contrived. At the foot of the palatial fa?ade, is strown, with careful art and ordered regularity, a broad and broken heap of massive rock, looking as if it may have lain there since the deluge. Over a central precipice falls the water, in a semicircular cascade; and from a hundred crevices, on all sides, snowy jets gush up, and streams spout out of the mouths and nostrils of stone monsters, and fall in glistening drops; while other rivulets, that have run wild, come leaping from one rude step to another, over stones that are mossy,

us fountain. Here, also, are men with buckets, urchins with cans, and maidens (a picture as old as the patriarchal times) bearing their pitchers upon their heads. For the water of Trevi is in request, far and wide, as the most refreshing draught for feverish lips, the pleasantest to mingle with wine, and the wholesomest to drink in its native purity, that can anywhere be found. But, at midnight, the piazza is a so

nt la source précieuse, comme dans l'antiquité une peinture représentait le même évè

ormerly Sta. Maria in Fornica, erected by Cardinal Mazarin, on the sit

icius Belisari

niam condid

pedem qui sacra

eum s?pe pr

h in the island of Ponza. The crypt of the present building, being the parish church of the Quirinal, contains th

is still (1870) served by the Venerable Don Giovanni Merlini, Father General of the O

ulate. At the other end is the shop of the famous jeweller, Castellani, well worth visiting, for the

sée. Un jeune marchand aussi érudit que les archéologues fait voir une collection de bijoux anciens de toutes les époques, depuis les origines de l'Etrurie jusqu'au siè

tellani, guidé par le go?t savant et ingénieux d'un homme qui porte dignement l'ancien nom de Caetani, a introduit dans la bijouterie un style à la fois classique et

3 by Labacco, contains a gallery of pictures. Its six ce

Ro

t. John Bapti

ily: Innocen

riumphant:

donna:

esca Romana: C

Ro

nto Egypt: C

t: Claude

Ro

Family:

Hunt:

mily: Andre

Angel to the Heaven

rr

a drawing a boat with

ber: G

rn Scene

: Copy of Raphael

with Angels: Luc

Ro

mily: Fra

which the mother's eyes are bent upon the baby she holds in her arms, and the innocent fondness with which the other child gazes up in her face, are

the Evangeli

ayer (Andrea Mar

ectators over his shoulder. The expression of his countenance is sensible and decided, and betokens a character

Mark: G

of Herodia

Love: Agost

mblers: Ca

cheat. The subject will remind you of the Flemish School, but this painting bears no resemblance to it. Here is no farce, no caricature. Character was never more strongly marke

d Vanity: Leon

s a particularly pleasing, noble profile, with a clear, open expression; she beckons to her sister, who stands fronting the spectator, beautifully arrayed, and with

alen: Gu

y Portrai

trait:

ebastian:

a Donna:

onna Laura Eustachio, the peasant

t they have done, every one may, if he chooses, find his own special pleasure in the work. The sensualist will find sensuality in Titian; the thinker will find thought; the saint, sanctity; the colourist, colour; the anatomist, form; and yet the picture will never be a popular one in the full sense, for none of these narrower people will find their special taste so alone consulted, as tha

the Virgin:

della Radice

f her countenance and attitude, speak the overwhelming sorrow that penetrates her soul. Her face might charm the heart of a stoic; and the contrast of her youth and enchanting

this arch are preserved in the portico of the Villa Borghese, and though much mutilated are of fine workmanship. The inscription, wh

the Caravita,[12] used for the peculiar religious exercises of the Jesuits, especially for their terrible

om the altar, which pours forth an exhortation to think of unconfessed, or unrepented, or unforgiven crimes. This continues a sufficient time to allow the kneelers to strip off their upper garments; the tone of the preacher is raised more loudly at each word, and he vehemently exhorts his hearers to recollect that Christ and the martyrs suffered much more than whipping. 'Show, then, your penitence-show your sense of Christ's sacrifice-show it with

inguished; and from praying, the congregation proceeded to groaning, crying, and finally, being worked up into a kind of e

e fa?ade, of 1685, is by Algardi. It contains the tomb of Gregory XIV. (Nicolo

Christian mythology. His festa falls in June, and then his altar is embosomed in flowers, arranged with exquisite taste; and a pile of letters may be seen at its foot, written to the saint by young men and maidens, and directed to Paradiso. They are supposed to be burn

roof and tribune are

the vulgar stare; to make the impalpable to the grasp appear as palpable to the vision; the near seem distant, the distant near; the unreal, real; to cheat the eye; to dazzle the sense;-all this has Father Pozzi most cunningly achieved in the Gesù and the Sant' Ignazio at Rome; but nothing more, a

are those of Pierre Gilles, the traveller (ob. 1555), and of the English Cardinal Weld. Here, also, Cardinal Gonsalvi, the famous and liberal minister of Pius VII., is

gulari amore

uo dil

ra et

e urna cond

in are the cherubs, whose graceful movements and exquisite flesh-tints Vasari declares to have been unsurpasse

while Eve, filled with life, and with folded hands, rises to receive the blessing of

d in attempting to settle a quarrel among his Christian followers. It was in front of it that the body of the tribune Rienz

al of the Jesuits. The buildings were erected, as we now see them, by Ammanati, in 1582, for Gregory XIII. The college is entirely under the superintendence of the Jesuits. The library is large and valuable. The Kircherian Museum (shown to gentlemen from ten to eleven on Sundays) is worth visiting. It contains a num

d a European reputation from the important astrono

nnocent XII., Clement XI., Innocent XIII., and Clement XII. Among its other pupils have been S. C

aient rendu l'objet d'un affectueux respect. Ce jeune homme avait été page de Philippe II.; il était allié aux maisons royales d'Autriche, de Bourbon et de Lorraine. Mais au milieu de ces illusions d'une grande vie, sous ce brillant costume de cour qui semblait lui promettre honneurs et fortune, il ne voyait jamais que la pieuse figure de sa mère agenouillée au pied des autels, et priant pou

ed by Sergius I., in the eighth century, but twice rebuilt, the second time u

nded down from the first ages, St. Luke the Evangelist wrote, and painted

as the actual house in which St

prisoners to the captain of the guard: but Paul was suf

hom he expounded and testified the kingdom of God, persuading them concerning Jesus,

nto him, preaching the kingdom of God, and teaching those things which concern the Lord

much more bold to speak the word without fear. Even in the palace of Nero, the most noxious atmosphere, as we should have concluded, for the growth of divine truth, his bonds were manifest, the Lord Jesus was preached, and, more than this, was received to the saving of many souls; for we find the Apostle writing to his Philippian converts: 'All the saints salute you, chiefly they which are of C?sar's household.' The whole Church of Christ has abundant reason to bless God for the dispensation which, during the most matured period of St. Pa

events of St. Paul's apostolate, during the two years that he lived here. It was here that he converted Onesimus, that he received the presents of the Philippians, brought by Epaphroditus; it was hence that he wrote to Philemon, to Titus

s even amongst his relations, are those who yield to the power of God, who reveals himself in each of the teachings of his servant.[14] Around the Apostle his eager disciples group themselves-Onesiphorus of Ephesus, who was not ashamed of his chain;[15] Epaphras of Colosse, who was captive with him, concaptivus meus;[16

all these things, I glorify her on this account, that Paul in his lifetime wrote to the Romans, and loved them, and was present with and conversed with them, and ended his life amongst them. Wherefore the city

of his religious sentiments, adding that the Christian sect was everywher

stful faith with the pride of scepticism. After a long and stormy discussion, the unbelieving portion departed; but not until St. Paul had warned them, in one last address, that they were bringing upon themselves that awful doom of judicial blindness, which was denounced in their own Scriptures against obstinate unbelievers; that the salvation which they rejected would be withdrawn from them, and the inheritance they renounced would be given to the Gentiles. The sentence with which he gave emphasis to this solemn warning was that passage in Isaiah, which recurring thus with s

his teaching. The freest scope was given to his labours, consistent with the military custody under which he was placed. We are told, in language peculiarly emphatic, that his preaching was subjected to no restraint whatever. And that which seemed at first to impede, must really have deepened the impression of his

rdingly we find him, during this Roman imprisonment, surrounded by many of his oldest and most valued attendants. Luke, his fellow-traveller, remained with him during his bondage; Timotheus, his beloved son in the faith, ministered to him at Rome, as he had done in Asia, in Macedonia, and in Achaia. Tychicus, who had formerly borne him company from Corinth to Ephesus, is now at hand to carry his letters to the shores which they had visited together. But there are two names amongst his Roman companions which excite a peculiar interest, though from opposite reasons,-the names of Demas and of Mark. The latter, when last we

Thessalonica, one of 'Paul's companions in travel,' whose life was endangered by the mob at Ephesus, and who embarked with St. Paul at C?sarea when he set sail for Rome. The other, Epaphras, was a Colossian, who must not be identified with the Philippian Ep

a Christian named Philemon, a member of the Colossian Church. But he had robbed his master, and fled from Colosse, and at last found his way to Ro

ight have wherewithal to baptize his disciples. At the end of the crypt are some large blocks of peperino, said to

o being by Pietro da Cortona, and that towards the Piazza Venezia by Amati). Entering the courtyard, one must turn left to reach the Picture Galler

eleager, the Story of Marsyas, Endymion and Diana, and a Bacchic procession. Of two ancient circular altars, one serves as the pedestal of a be

stored), of basalt and rosso-antico.

tur

s Romana:

ision: Gio

and Saint

f St. Anthony: Sc

in the Dese

St. John: Vit

lizio: V.

r before Maximin

and Child:

ciation:

(see the account of Sta. Maria Liberatrice).

y of the Titian i

Ro

quired wealth this palace was built) in

Ro

-changers: Qu

entre, a group of Jacob wrestling

Ro

ni, the sister-in-law of Innocen

na: Carlo

of a Boy:

ughel and Fiammingo, and containing a bust by Algardi, of Olympia

Ro

in the desert:

of the Innocen

alleries-which beg

Gall

, and two Franciscan Sa

n: Annibal

ads: Quen

amily: Sa

Eustachio (see the description of

ortrait

mily: Andre

ee Ages of

the Prodigal

the Flight into Egy

of Mary and Eliz

"Nozze Aldobra

nna: Gui

: Giulio Romano

Gall

na: Fran

o and Baldo

trait:

t of a Wido

ed Calvin, Luther, an

ice of Isa

t of a Pamf

John the Baptist: Pordenone.

Confessor

agon: School of L

ene: Schoo

fant Jesus: Gio. Batt.

Family:

ng Virtue (a ske

ife: Titian. Also a number of pi

Gall

pes (with figures int

ercury stealing catt

an's Wif

iavellus Historiar.

ll:" Claude

erd had no business to drive his flock so near the dancers, and the dancers will certainly frighten the cattle. But when we look farther into the picture, our feelings receive a sudden and violent shock, by the unexpected appearance, amidst things pastoral and musical, of the military; a number of Roman soldiers riding in on hobby-horses, with a leader on foot, apparently encouraging them to make an immediate and decisive charge on the musicians. Beyond the soldiers is a circu

y spoiled, selected with such opposition of character as may insure their neutralizing each other's effect, and united with sufficient

ced beauty. Neither did he like exhibiting in his pictures accidents of nature. He professed to pourtray the style of general nature, and so

à: Ann.

the Temple of Apol

rait: Ma

rait: Gi

th Diana hunting:

s a small cabinet, containin

a "Letterato:"

drea Doria: Sebas

Giannetto Dor

. Filippo Neri,

X.; Gio. Battista Pamfil

ent: John

Princess Doria (Lady Mary Talbot), which has

d with mirrors, and with st

e builder of the palace, or any of his successors, have committed crimes worthy of Tophet, it would be a still worse punishment to him to wander perpetually through this suite of rooms, on the cold fl

It has some fine painted and carved wooden ceilings. This palace is supposed to be the scene of the latest miracle of the Roman Catholic Church. The present Princess Odescalchi had long been bedridden, and was apparently dying of a hopeless disease, when, while her family were watching what they considered her last mome

is the Palazzo Valentini, which once

lius II. at one time made it his residence, and also Cardinal (afterwards San Carlo) Borromeo. Part of it is now the residence of the French ambassadors. The palace is built very near the

ortraits. Then come three rooms covered with tapestries, the last containing a pretty statue of a girl, sometimes called Niobe. Hence we reach the pictures. The 1st Room has an interesting collection of the ear

, 1417-24). Among its pictures, are St. Bernard, Giovanni Bellini; Onuphrius Pavinius, Titian; Holy Family, B

re the family portraits:-Federigo Colonna, Sustermanns; Don Carlo Colonna, Vandyke; Card. Pompeio Colonna, Lorenzo Lotto; Vittoria Colonna, Muziano; Lucrezia Colonna, Vandyke; Pompeio Colonna, Agostino Caracci; Giacomo Sciarra Colonna, Giorgione. We may also notice an extraordinary picture of the Madonna rescuing a child from a demon, by Nic

olonna Gardens; but as they are generally visited from the Qu

r le pape Pascal II. Il fallait que la famille f?t déjà passablement

lonna) la terre de l'Eglise seroit la plus heureuse habitation pour

lonna, in cu

nza, e'l gra

n torte del

ve per vento

a, Sonn

rebuilt by Martin V., in 1420, and modernized, c. 1602, by Fontana. The portico contains a magnificent

ne d'un magnifique travail. Vous reconna?trez facilement dans cet aigle et cette couronne la représentation d'une ensigne romaine, telle que

Over the sacristy door is the tomb of Pope Clement XIV. (Giov. Antonio

ans une espèce de sommeil léthargique après avoir dit la messe, et, pendant vingt-quatre heures, il demeura sans mouvement dans son fauteuil. Ses serviteurs s'étonnant de cet état, le lendemain,

monuments of the fifteenth century, to two relations of Pope Sixtus IV., Pietro Riario, and Cardinal Raffaelo Riario. To the right is the tomb of the Chevalier Girard, brother-in-law of Pope Julius II., and ma?tre d'h?tel to Charles VIII. and Louis XII. of France. The tom

er's), wife of James III., called the First Pretender, is

atinée se passe en prières aux Saints-Ap?tres,

le for the sermons of the monk F

, ce mot écrit en gros caractères: Mentiris (tu mens). Le fougueux orateur eut peine à contenir son émotion; il termina son sermon en quelques paroles, et courut au palais de l'Inquisition présenter le billet mystérieux, et demander qu'on examinat scrupuleusement sa

ove, misfortunes, and death, has been celebrated by About, under the name o

and of sparing her the horrors of a coffin. The beloved remains were wrapped in the white muslin robe which she wore in the garden on the day when she exchanged her sweet vows with Lello. The Marchesa Trasimeni, ill and wasted as she was, came herself to arrange her hair in the manner she loved. Every garden in Rome despoiled itself to send her its flowers; it was only necessary to choose. The funeral procession quitted the church of S. Antonio Abbate on Thursday eveni

days of the year an object of pilgrimage, and more than one young Roman maiden adds

he residence of Prince Charles Edward ("the last Pretender"), who died here in 1788. Hence the Via

he mother of Napoleon I., died February 2nd, 1836. The present head of the family is Cardinal Lucien-Louis Buonaparte, son of Prince Cha

liano da Majano (with materials plundered from the Coliseum) for Paul II., who was of Venetian birth. On the ruin of the republic the palace fell in

, is the Palazzo Torlonia, built by Fon

who can amass riches, may rise to that of duke. Thus Torlonia, the Roman banker, purchased the title and estate of the Duca di Bracciano, fitted up the 'Palazzo Nuovo di Torlonia' with all the magnificence tha

faveur de l'autre. L'un épouse une Sforza-Cesarini et marie ses deux fils à une Chigi et une Ruspoli; l'autre obtient pour femme une Colonna-Doria. C'est ainsi que la fam

between men and animals, brought hither from the Palazzo Orsini, and probably pourtraying the famous d

beri, because there the horses, which run in the races during the Carnival, are caught in large folds of

Doric Tomb, bearing an inscription which states that it was erected by order of the people on land granted by the Senate to Caius Publicius Bibulus,

outside the Porta Ratumena from whence that road issued. There are some obscure remains of another to

dinal Quirini in 1744. Its portico, which is lined with early Christian inscriptions, contains a fine fifteenth century doorway, surmounted by a figure of St. Mark. The interior is in the form of a basilica, its naves and aisles separated

eneath a hand extended with a wreath, is the standing figure of Christ with an open book, and on either side, S. Angelo and Pope Gregory IV. Further on, but still belonging to the dome, are the thirteen lambs, forming a second and quite uneven circle round the figures. The execution is here especially rude, and of true Byzantine rigidity, wh

e, being himself canonized, is also honoured here, and is buried under the high altar. On April 25th, St. Mark's D

tta. The high altar, by Giacomo della Porta, has fine columns of giallo-antico. The altar of St. Ignatius at the end of the left transept is of gaudy magnificence. It was designed by Padre Pozzi, the group of the Trinity being by Bernardino Ludovisi; the globe in the hand of the Almighty is said to be the largest piece of lapis-lazuli in existence. Beneath this altar, and h

also a chapel, is that in which he died. It contains the altar at which he daily celebrated mass, and the autograph engagement to live under the same laws of obedience, poverty, and chastity, signed by Laynez, Francis Xavier, and Ignatius Loyola. On its walls are two portraits of Ignatius Loyola, one as a young knight, the other as a Jes

zzo Altieri, built by Cardinal Altieri in

ir voir. Il s'y fit porter, et d'aussi loin qu'il aper?ut la magnificence et l'étendue de cette superb

ient colossal marble finger, of such extraordinary

ardinal Altieri, who died a martyr to his devotion to his flock (as Bish

r. When they came to this square, the devil, who seemed to be very devout, said to the wind, "Just wait a minute, mio caro, while I go into this church