Charles Philip Yorke, Fourth Earl of Hardwicke, Vice-Admiral R.N. A Memoir

op Alacrity, and in her sailed to the Mediterranean in the autumn, anchoring at Gibraltar on November 29. He was dispatched to that sta

deas which followed the French Revolution; the bravery which distinguished the resistance of certain sections of the Hellenic peoples, such as the Suliotes, and Spakiots of Crete; the aspirations of Ali Pacha, who conceived the idea of severing his connection w

ts failed and he fled to Austria three months later; and other movements in the northern provinces had a similar fate. But the rising in the Peloponnesus under Germanos, the Archbishop of Patros, was more successful; his forces drove the Turks before them, and the independence of the country was proclaimed in January of 1823. The Greeks, however, displaye

med in London; the Philhellenes became very powerful in most countries on the continent, as well as in Amer

t they had acquired. The war, however, was continued for many years; Lord Cochrane became admiral of the Greek fleet and Sir Robert Church took command of the land forces. The action of Navarino, which occurred in 1827 almost by accident, had a great effect upon the fortunes of the struggle. The fleets of England, France, and Russia were cruising about the coasts of the Peloponnesus to prevent the ravages of the Turkish fleet on the islands and mainland, and selected a winter anchorage at Navarino, where the Turkish and Egyptian fleets lay. The Turks thinking they were menace

, established their head-quarters in out-of-the-way creeks, and preyed upon the commerce of the Levant without any interference from their Government. As in the case of the B

mportant position he had to fill. He was, as he says, in those eastern waters in the double capacity of warrior and diplomatist, or in other words to command a neutral armed vessel, act impartially between Greek and

had no positive orders for his guidance, but only 'act as you think most fit.' Often he found himself in difficulties without even an interpreter, and so obliged to make himsel

ays at Malta refitting, he was ordered to proceed to the Ionian station. He describes with great admiration the beauty of the scene at sunrise on New Year's Day of 1824 as the Alacrity made the coast of Epirus, the snow-covered mountains of Albania contrasting with the green and fertile shore of Corfu with its olive gardens reaching down to the water's edge. At Corfu he dined with commissioners, generals, and at messes; and records meeting Lord Byron's 'Maid

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breakfast, music and a trip to Algeciras in the Tribune's boats to spend the day. He seems in great force and sorry to leave this part of the world, indeed, they say that love has much to do in the case. I afterwards paid my devoirs to the American Commodore, Jones, who is here in the Constitution, and went over his ship; I felt proud to see the ship

readful state; anarchy, confusion, highway robbery and assassination daily take place. The game is up, if France has got and will keep milit

aged in taking big guns up. Alacrity is the

. Love

tionate and

YO

ere so bad I would not take them, but the one C-- ha

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paper to address you, not having been in any Christian Port for some

e other end of my story, and so come down to the present time, instead of going back; relating all the little matter

y of warrior and diplomatist, or in other words, as an arm'd neutral vessel between the Turks and Greeks, to protect our trade from the piracies of both Nations, I assure you no very easy task, but certainly of the two the Turk is the best by far

on the part of these People, but only, to act as you think most fit; how the Government would bear us out in any act of violence such as

ill used the crew, permitted the vessel herself to depart. This petition is put into my hands by Col. Sir F. Steven the resident of Zante, for here a Capt. of a man of war is a species of Penang Lawyer, and whenever a petition comes to any of these gentlemen they always say "Oh! give it the Capt. of the Brig or Frigate, &c. he will soon settle it, and do it by Club Law." However away I went to Missolonghi, and anchored off the Town on the 23rd of Jany. observing ten sail of Turkish men of war to leeward, went on shore, and with much difficulty we poked our way through the narr

man is capable of possessing and a pair of loaded pistols in his belt, with no more words than are absolutely neces

ce flocking to him daily, he could if he liked set up a Govt. in Missolonghi, but as he hates governments, and likes this sort of life where his nod and beck are a law, he will have nothing to do with their legislation altho' they come and offer to place him at the head of the Government victorious. He however has pay'd their fleet for them, who immediately landed their Admiral and sailed away the Lord knows where. 'The first interview I had with this Prince Mavrocordato I could do nothing, as I plainly saw they were detaining me while they made out a case and that Stanhope's wits were put in requisition. In addition to which I had no interpreter, and so I was obliged to

ion at Missolonghi. I have just seen some English papers, they tal

water, intending to go up to Lepanto and be present at the storming of that place by the Greeks. Ld. Byron and myself had agreed, he was to lead the attack and indeed had undertaken the Enterprise entirely, and as he jocosely observed to me a very fit man he was as he could not run if he wished, alluding to his club foot; but it was otherwise ordained, for to my great grief news one evening was suddenly brought me as I was dining at the Mess of the 90th Regt. of the loss of H.M. sloop Columbine at Sapienza, my friend Abbot's ship. I lost no time in being at sea and was with him on Saturday the 31st of Jany. having put to sea from Zante with a gale from the N.W. and had much ado to keep clear of the Coast of the Morea. On my arrival in Porto Longue, I found my friend and his crew all well having only lost two people; the brig's tops just above water; she was lost by parting her S.B.

am ordered to take another convoy, and a

Love to Lady C

me most s

afft

YO

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afterwards took convoy to Malta where I did not remain more than six hours being called on to perform a service of some delicacy; different are the opinions of the way in which I acquitted myself but I feel conscious of having strictly done my duty, and if I have done wrong, all that I have to say is that the laws of nations were not the groundwork or capital of my education, but it has made me take books up a little in that way. The fact was a vessel under English colours received on board at Rhodes 250 Algerians to take passage to their native city (among whom was the brother-in-law of the Dey) with all their money and effects; on this passage they hear of the war between their country and our own, the mas

wls, &c. &c. now is the time. Affectionate love to all. I wish Hy. was with me

ffectio

.Y

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. 'TR

ff Corfu, on the

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under sail and about

crity in company. We st

c. though I leave him

ipel

will abuse much when you receive it, but I promise a long one when I am in for the Station and business that will naturally occur therefrom. I

himself well pleased with my conduct. Hamilton of the Cambria promis

e to

ffectio

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or squadron I will not call it as there are only 46 guns among three of us) and being my senior officer has of course taken possession of the Green Bag, & my command in these seas has expired after

to the small force up this country these papers have so accumulated that a large bag became necessary to hold them, and when I gave up my command to Eden of the Martin, up the side after me came the "awful Green Bag." The Senior Officer here is in himself an Admiralty Court for all the Archipelago, and a most difficult and delicate service it is, for "truth is never to be got at"

m into the field, and there he is bloody, cruel, ferocious and desperate but not brave. In the drawing room he is polish'd, well bred, and from the pomp and magnificence of style in which he lives he cannot fail at first to impose on the stranger a good opinion of at least his gentlemanly manners, and courtlike behaviour. On my arrival at Smyrna I did not fail as soon as I was able to gain an interview with Hussan Pacha, the Governor. This man gain'd his Government by some merit of his own; marching thro' Smy

ter Wyson, with the Dragoman; we were received with all due respect and pomp and after many compliments, pipes, coffee, sherbet, &c. &c. we to

m their costume and arms forming the most amusing and picturesque objects of the whole. Here and there you saw strong symptoms of firing in the dominions of the Porte, doors full of shot-holes, and now and then a random ball whizzing over your head. Above t

quite enjoy the beauties of Asia, and the romance of the ride thro' the burying-place of the Turk, studded with the Turba

y. I have myself little doubt that the French had much to do with the capture of this island, for I learnt from many that a Frigate had been at Psara on the 22nd of June, and for four successive days had sounded round and round the Island and then sailed for Mytilene where the Capt. Pacha was. Moreover when I was on board the Pacha's ship he show'd me a Chart or plan of the Island, which the moment I saw it, I exclaimed "This is done by a Frank," and he said, yes that it had be

the precipices into the sea, and then following themselves. The Pacha told me he had not taken a single woman, and only a few children, that some of the boats pick'd up floating. We conversed on different topics, but more particularly on the politics of Turkey and Greece. I ask'd him if he meant to strike the iron while it was hot, and get on to Hydra, and strike a blow there, telling him at the same time that I was going to the Naval Islands on business and should tell all I had seen. He replied, "No, I love the Hydriotes." The crafty old dog loves them like a cannibal "well enough to eat them." After having sat above an hour (for I was determined to see all I could) he was called out by the Admiral who whispered in his ear; out he went, I was curious, and walked to the front part of the cabin opening a little of the Door; I saw him on the deck surrounded with Turkish soldiers who were each producing th

the death of Ali; he commanded the 12,000 men that landed at Psara. Another desperate act of heroism took place in the strong fort situated on an eminence at the West End of the Island, it held out till the last and was not destroy'd until everything was lost. The Turks had ma

y small force I should not be able to effect that which a larger ship would have immediately succeeded in, with nothing mo

nd see what was to be done. I afterwards heard that he kept aloof until the Captain Pacha quitted, he then attack'd the gun boats in which about 2000 [Footnote: The garrison left at Psara] Turks were attempting to escape and destroyed nearly the whole of them. Now the Island is desolate and neutral having neither Greek nor Turk on it; but I hear that the Captain Pacha is going to adopt the miserable and contemptible policy of destroying its harbour, and then tak

ore they would give an answer, I passed on to Napoli di Romania (Nauplia) where the Greeks have set up an attempt at a government, for a government I cannot call it that has neither laws or courts, not even a national asse

who during his life has amassed a fortune of Five million of dollars, having had for twenty-three years the Trade, I may say, of the whole of the northern part of the Archipelago; himself a ship owner, having no less than eighteen or twenty fine Brigs and ships from 180 to 300

the Greek cause, unless they appoint proper Commissioners to receive it, and to dole it out, in such a way as to be of service to those who merit it? Is the Provisional Govt. of Greece such a Committee? Or are they who have

alled and thought himself free, and his family before him never own'd the dominion of the Turk, living in inaccessible holds no Turkish turbaned head was ever near them. This man tho' wild and untaught is patriotic, brave, devoid of superstition, and last and most rare among the Greeks, has an utter contempt for money. He has talents for war or peace, and the most moderate in his principles of any of them. If there is a man in Greece who is to be depended on he is the man. He maintains that one of the greatest steps towards the well-being of Greece is the putting down the ascendancy of the Priests, with that you will put down intolerant avarice and much crime. At first the Govt. would not give much ear to his demands, but he

give up. The other Chiefs of Note, Mavrocordato and Colcotronis, are men of perfectly different characters but both by their different means attempting to aggrandize themselves. The former's weapons are his talents and his tongue, the latter's his courage and his sword. Colcotronis rebelled and try'd to overthrow the provisional Government, he blockaded Napoli and was for some weeks fighting with the Govt. Corps in the Plains of Argos, but Odysseus appearing on the mountain, neither knowing which side he would take, they

tillery and engineers, they had caused to be manufactured musquets, yataghans and pistols in the fashion of the country together with powder and ball, and had taken care that a proper commission was there ready to receive it and take care that they were properly distributed, I would have given them some credit; but as yet I think what they have sent has created bad blood among the people and rivalry among the Chiefs who should possess the whole. When Odysseus heard that supplies of stores had arrived from England at Missolonghi he sent 300 men and a captain to get some, he demanded a share and

on, unless some interference is made or the one party or the other gets weary, i

y marines into the three boats going myself in my gig, making Trescott in the brig stand slap into the port with her guns loaded with round shot and grape. The shores of the harbour (which is not more than two cables lengthward) lined with about 12,000 men, her guns would have made dreadful havoc. In three minutes from the time we got on board, the Greeks had jumped overboard and her cables were cut

o Napoli I fell in with the Martin and returned to Smyrna, where I found Euryalus. He went to sea and has left me Gardo here. Finding that for a time my sea trips were suspended I set off for Magnesia and much delighted I have been with my trip, suffice it to say that nothing can be

t health, and the climate has completely left

reek, Roman and Egyptian pottery, the greater part of which is

send Uncle Charles. Tell him so! This letter I know he will see, so if he will, take it as written as m

etters to any bu

ear I wear the Turkish d

ost aff

YO

to U. K. and Agneta an

E. Y. a

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ime, yet, as there are several vessels in this harbour on the point of sailing

Turk, funny, fat and good-natured. The latter part of our journey lay thro' a pass in the mountains from the summit of which the Valley of Magnesia suddenly burst on our view, with the town on the eastern side at the foot of a perpendicular rocky mountain very like the rock of Gibraltar, but if anything higher, more craggy, and bold: the valley that lay before us, bounded on the W. by a ridge of regular round topped hills, and to the Nd. the eye could not reach the extent of this immense plain, which is covered with vines, and fig trees, corn, and tobacco, the best in Natolia. On my arrival, I sent my Janissary from the Kane I put up at to say I was arrived, when an officer from the Bey came, and marched us thro' the street till we stopped at one of the best looking houses I had seen; we were ushered in, and I was then informed we were to live here and that if I did not like it and was not comfortable that I should have another. But I soon found out we could not be better off; the Bey having sent us to the house of the Primate of the Greeks, who was obliged to receive us whether

ter from Alexandria, and, as I said before, it was to be sho

aordinary figures I ever saw in my life; a countenance more devilish was never given to Dervish before. After we had been seated some time, this man, who had never opened his lips but had eyed us with the greatest attention and ferocity, at length began to mutter, "Kenkalis, Kenkalis, taib ben" ("English, English, I hope you are well"). This was one of those privileged people which in these countries are

e moment the Turks had departed he was a new man. I have never been so pleased with any Turk in my life as with Ali Bey. His affability and kindness were Europea

y-five days afterwards I again found myself in Magnesia, housed with the old Greek Patriarch a second time. He now sent us down to the village of Graviousken (?) (Infidel Village) where we were well lodged: his cook and household chief accompanied us, and the following day he came himself. Our hunt, tho' not much sport to English taste, yet was most amusing. The magnificence of the horses and riders; their equipage and

oment he took his purse out, tore it away from him took all he had saying, "they should never see such a man again" and returned him the empty purse. He fortunately had been prepared for such an attack and had a proper sum and no more in his purse, but had it not been for this sagacity, I might have lost all the money I had with me. Our dinner at Graviousken was capital, he had wine for us; fingers were again in requisition, and we were obliged to eat of twenty-six dishes, each brought

s thirty-five sail of small vessels and fireships in the little Bogaz, which separates the island from the main. At length the fleet sail for Mytilene. The troops at Scala Nova know not what to think, no provisions, no water, 25,000 die of famine, the rest in a most pitiable condition, receive orders to return to their homes, massacre, pillage, and plunder the whole way back. Nevertheless, the Turks contrived to lose two small frigates by the fireships of the Greeks. The conduct of the Pacha, and his disgraceful mode of entering Constantinople with about fifty sail of small Greek Boats for the occasion, with a Greek hanging at each mast head, you might have seen from the public prints. My business with the Governor of Scala Nova being settled (having obliged him to release an Ionian Vessel one of his cruizers had captured), Ephesus three hours distant became the next object. Little is now left of this once celebrated city, and the site of Diana's huge temple I think is not to be found. One splendid relic still remains. A part of a fluted Cor

he Morea! I presume the British subject is free to trade as he pleases but, at the same time, that he must take the consequence of his speculations. Whether this large national flag was to be displayed at sea, in a rencontre with the Greek fleet, became a question with me? Whether our ensign was to be borne by vessels actually engaging Greek ships, was also a question I asked myself. And the reply instantly was, "No, it cannot be neutrality." I determined to take the ensigns from them which was done, and having cut the Unions out I gave them back, which I have since been sorry for. In short, I should have taken all the vessels as they were all sailing under false papers, or have taken the flags away altogether and have considered them as they really were, Turkish transports. But I felt it a very delicate affair as Ibrahim Pacha, when I waited on him, declared, that I should be the means of his losing his expedition, and that he trembled for the consequences. He had previously sent his Secretary on board me, to try and talk me over to give back the flags. But it would not do, I saw thro' the whole thing. The fact was, these mercenaries employed in the Egyptian service had refused to p

the British subjects violence might be resorted to by the Turk, and that my presence only added fuel to the fire. For while I was there th

tween the island and the main, I made my visits leaving her early in the morning, she standing in the evening to pick me up. The Port here I by no means considered safe for the Alacrity. Small merchant vessels do go into the Port, and often pay for their temerity by being totally wrecked. Here you see the remains of what the island was, with some of the Knight

but I think it already too long. In my next I shall take up my proceedings from Rhodes, going into Cyprus, Scandaroon, Beirut, Tyre, Sidon, St. Jean D'Arc, Deir

his. The only way in which the Turk will do anything in the Morea is by corrupting the Greeks: if it is to be a contest, I prophesy the Egyptian army will never return. The conduct of the French to the Turks has been most decided. The King of France wrote to the Viceroy of Egypt, complimenting him on his genius, and wishing him all possible success. The bearer of this letter was General Boyer who has come out to discipline the Turkish army, has assumed the Turkish dress, being installed in his command with the title and allowance of a Bey and a salary of 10,000 Dollars per annum. He brough

ather,

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as it takes up the story of his experiences in the later months of 1824. The narrative requires no comment, as it speaks for itself, and the d

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cenic, arches in abundance and curious tesselated pavements of coloured stones. But this is not Turkish, though now in possession of the Turks, but the architecture of its former inhabitants remains. I made short excursions into the country with some English and Armenian missionaries who have resided some years in the country, but except the beauties of nature little else remarkable i

so I discharged him. A Turk now undertook to pilot us to Seyden, though on our arrival there I determined to hav

interpreter whom I have mentioned in company, we started for the residence of her ladyship. The ride, uninteresting from any circumstance but that of actually being on Mount Libanus, deserves no remark, sterile, and but little cultivated in this part. Her residence is on an eminence about ten miles from the sea which it overlooks; on the other side it does not look into the bosom of the Valley of Bernica, yet it is high enough to enjoy the beautiful verdure of the mountain rising on the opposite side, whose tops are the most lofty of Libanus. The air is pure and the scenery bold. On a hill about a mile to the southward of her habitation is a village which flourishes in the sunshine of her favour and protection. Her house is a neat building, a mixture of Oriental and English. From the entrance gate a passage (on either side of which is a guard room and some apartments for soldiers and servants) leads to a square yard, half way across which is a terrace with three steps, round which terrace are the different apartments of servants, interpreters, as also spare rooms for visitors. On the left side of the terrace under a lattice work of wood woven with rose and jessamine I was ushered, and shewn into a small apartment furnished in the Eastern style. The chiboque and coffee were in

to a high pitch of enthusiasm, she talked wildly and was much distressed in m

ruses are a most extraordinary people; the Palace of the Emir superb, the country richly cultivated by the greatest labour being all in ridges on the sides of the mountains, but I shall refer you to Mr. Hope's "Anastasius" for a good description and for all that is supposed, for nothin

to cut the Alacrity. I suppose a Christian hardly ever had such an opportunity which he was obliged to lose. Lady Hester said it was my djinn or star which got me into such favour. On the third morning we breakfasted at Deir-el-Kamr, t

s I know her family knew little or nothing ab

continual calling from Capt. Hamilton, who sends for me on every occasion, that th

l known and it is quite out of my power to say anything new of it, but his work will remain for ever; the isthmus he made to connect the island on which Tyre stood with the mainland is perfect to this day and has no appearance of being a work of art, but of nature. It is 200 fathoms wide in its narrowest part. The most ancient relic in the town of Tyre is the east end of a Christian church which is mentioned by Mandiel; this sta

rty-three yards deep, the people believe it has no bottom and that the water is brought there by genii. Where it comes from no one knows, but it is always full. I think these cisterns originally supplied Tyre with water; I traced the remains of an aqueduct from them nearly to the walls but better than half way across the isthmus, so that I think they are of a later date than the time of Solomon because the aqueduct could not be built over the isthmus before the isthmus was made. They are on the whole the most curious relics of antiquity I have seen, they must at least be 2300 year

ns of the old port, a mote, by the ruins

river at Mt. Tabor and Carmel in sight. At this time an alteration in the weather took place, the gales of wind began to blow here and the coast consequently became e

saw all that was to be seen. Mehemet Ali gave me a Turk to attend me and I play the traveller here for a few days; time for description I have none. You will be sorry I have

d my men took two Greek boats with nine men each on board one of which was the Captain of the Pirates; the Fury's boats took the vessels and their prizes, eleven in number. There was no fighting. Captain Lethaby in the Vengeance and Alacrity brought the Bey of Rhodes to his senses the other day; the Consul had been insulted, he would give no satisfaction, so

write to me, I do sincerely love that cousin of mine; Grantham'

di

YO

GULPH Of

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