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The Car That Went Abroad

Chapter 5 THE ROME OF FRANCE

Word Count: 2655    |    Released on: 06/12/2017

at Arles. The Rhone divides to form its delta there-los

when Julius C?sar established a Roman colony and built a fleet there, after which it became still more important-finally, with its one hundred thousand inhabitants, rivaling even Marseilles. It was during those earlier years-along through the first and second cen

barians swept down from the north and east, conquering, plundering, and establi

t was ready to be annexed to France. Always a battle ground, raided and sacked so often that the count is lost, the wonder is that any of its ancient glories

es, but if we gave the matter any further thought it was to conclude that such provincial circus rings would be small affairs of which only a few vestiges, like those of the ruined Forum, would remain.

me itself, could hardly show more impressive remains. The arena on these cards seemed hardly a ruin at all, and here were other cards which showed it occupied, filled with a vast modern audience who were watching someth

as a hot September morning, but I think we hurried. I suppose I was afraid the arena would not wait. Then all at once we were ri

e inner oval, the arena itself,[6] 226 by 129 feet, the tiers of stone seats rising terrace abo

his arena once held were not obliged to crowd through any one or two entrances, but could enter almost anywhere and ascend to their seats from any

and till judgment day. They have ranged wooden benches along some of them now, I do not see why, for they are very ugly and certainly not luxurious. They are for the entertainments-mainly bull fights-of the present; for strang

velties. Rome was engaged just then in exterminating Christians, and the happy thought occurred to make spectacles of them by having them fight the gladiators and the wild beasts, thus combining business and pleasure in a manner which would seem to have been highly satisfactory to the public who thronged the seats and applauded and laughed, and had refreshments served, and said what a great thing Christianity was and how they hoped its converts would increase. Sometimes, when the captures were numerous and the managers could afford it, Christians on crosses were pl

all that we know of the latter is that it will change. Because to-day we are satisfied with prize fights and bull fights is no sign that those who follow us will not demand sword fights and wild beasts a

Saracens in the eighth century used it for a fortress and added four watch towers, but their masonry is not of the everlasting Roman kind, and one of their towers has

us to a variety of other historic places. The proceeds from the ruins are devoted to their care and pres

ns of time. As early as the third century it was partially pulled down. Later it was restored, but not for long. The building bishops came and wanted its materials and ornaments for their churches. Not much was left after that, but to-day the fragments remaining have been unearthed and set up and give at least a hint

he first martyr, and on this consecrated spot three churches have been built, one in the fourth century, another in the seventh, and this one, dedicated to St. Trophime, in the twelfth, or earlier. It is of supreme

they crumble in his hands. Mistral has celebrated the cloister portal in a poem, and that alone would make it sacred to the Provence. The beautiful gallery is built around a court and it is lined with sculpture and bas-relief, rich beyond words. Saints and bible scenes are the subjects, and how old, how time-eaten and sorrowful they look. One gets the idea that the saints and martyrs and prophets have all contracted some wasting malady

see or to write of them-a mood that somehow does not go with automobile wandering, however deliberate. But I must give a word at least to two other such institutions of Arle

and it makes sausages-very good ones-and there are some railway shops that employ as many as fifteen hundred men. Some boat building may still be done here, too. But this is about all Arles can claim in the way of industries. It has not the look of what we call to-day a thriving city. It seems, rather, a medi?val setting for the more ancient memories. Yet it has these three splendid museums, and it has preserved and restored its ruins, just as if it had a J. Pierpont Morgan behind it, instead of an old poet with a Nobel prize, and a determined little community, too proud of its traditions and its taste to let them die. Danbu

secutor of the Christians. That was early in the fourth century. The daughter of Maximus seems to have been converted, for she came to stay at the palace and in due time bore Constantine a son. Descendants of Constantine occupied the palace for a period, then it passed to the Gauls, to the Goths, and so down the invading and conquering line. Once a king, Euric III, was assassinated here. Other kings followed and several varieties of counts. Their reigns were usually short and likely to end with a good deal of suddenness. It was alw

in adjoining buildings. Excavations have brought to light marbles, baths, rich ornamentations, all attesting its former gra

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1 Chapter 1 DON'T HURRY THROUGH MARSEILLES2 Chapter 2 MOTORING BY TRAM3 Chapter 3 ACROSS THE CRAU4 Chapter 4 MISTRAL5 Chapter 5 THE ROME OF FRANCE6 Chapter 6 THE WAY THROUGH EDEN7 Chapter 7 TO TARASCON AND BEAUCAIRE8 Chapter 8 GLIMPSES OF THE PAST9 Chapter 9 IN THE CITADEL OF FAITH10 Chapter 10 AN OLD TRADITION AND A NEW EXPERIENCE11 Chapter 11 WAYSIDE ADVENTURES12 Chapter 12 THE LOST NAPOLEON13 Chapter 13 THE HOUSE OF HEADS14 Chapter 14 INTO THE HILLS15 Chapter 15 UP THE ISèRE16 Chapter 16 INTO THE HAUTE-SAVOIE17 Chapter 17 SOME SWISS IMPRESSIONS18 Chapter 18 THE LITTLE TOWN OF VEVEY19 Chapter 19 MASHING A MUD GUARD20 Chapter 20 JUST FRENCH-THAT'S ALL21 Chapter 21 THE NEW PLAN22 Chapter 22 THE NEW START23 Chapter 23 INTO THE JURAS24 Chapter 24 A POEM IN ARCHITECTURE25 Chapter 25 VIENNE IN THE RAIN26 Chapter 26 THE CHTEAU I DID NOT RENT27 Chapter 27 AN HOUR AT ORANGE28 Chapter 28 THE ROAD TO PONT DU GARD29 Chapter 29 THE LUXURY OF N MES30 Chapter 30 THROUGH THE CéVENNES31 Chapter 31 INTO THE AUVERGNE32 Chapter 32 LE PUY33 Chapter 33 THE CENTER OF FRANCE34 Chapter 34 BETWEEN BILLY AND BESSEY35 Chapter 35 THE HAUTE-LOIRE36 Chapter 36 NEARING PARIS37 Chapter 37 SUMMING UP THE COST38 Chapter 38 THE ROAD TO CHERBOURG39 Chapter 39 BAYEUX, CAEN, AND ROUEN40 Chapter 40 WE COME TO GRIEF41 Chapter 41 THE DAMAGE REPAIRED-BEAUVAIS AND COMPIèGNE42 Chapter 42 FROM PARIS TO CHARTRES AND CHTEAUDUN43 Chapter 43 WE REACH TOURS44 Chapter 44 CHINON, WHERE JOAN MET THE KING, AND AZAY45 Chapter 45 TOURS46 Chapter 46 CHENONCEAUX AND AMBOISE47 Chapter 47 CHAMBORD AND CLéRY48 Chapter 48 ORLéANS49 Chapter 49 FONTAINEBLEAU50 Chapter 50 RHEIMS51 Chapter 51 ALONG THE MARNE52 Chapter 52 DOMREMY53 Chapter 53 STRASSBURG AND THE BLACK FOREST54 Chapter 54 A LAND WHERE STORKS LIVE55 Chapter 55 BACK TO VEVEY56 Chapter 56 THE GREAT UPHEAVAL57 Chapter 57 THE LONG TRAIL ENDS