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The Car That Went Abroad

Chapter 9 IN THE CITADEL OF FAITH

Word Count: 1567    |    Released on: 06/12/2017

hand and a pencil in the other and check the items, thus cleaning up in th

f impressions, and kept whichever we liked best. It was a loose system, to be recommended only for its variety. At the church of St. Agricole, for instance, which we happened upon when we started out one morning, we had a most interesting half hour discussing the age and beauty of its crumbling exterior and wandering about in its dimness, speculating concerning its frescoes and stained marbles and ancient tombs. When

ive arched entrance, and there was a guardian, or guide, to show us through. It is true he spoke only French-Proven?al French-but two gracious Italian ladies happened to be going through at the same time and, like all cultured continentals,

e, and once, in later times-the period of the Revolution-a massacre in which seventy perished. He also mentioned a bishop of the earlier

e entrance some workmen were uncovering a large square basin-a swimming pool, he said-probably of Roman time

be limitless, they were reconstructing perfectly every ruined part, and would spend at least two million dollars, we were told, to make the labor complete. Battered corners of towers had been carefully rebuilt, tumbled parapets replaced. We stood facing an exquisite mullioned wind

Jeanne of Naples came to plead for absolution, nearly six centuries ago. It was of overpowering size and interest, and in one of the upper corners was a picture I shall not soon forget. It was not a painting or tapestry, but it might have been either of these things and less beautiful. It was a living human being, a stone carver on a

ich were plainly marked by an outline on the stone floor, worn by the feet of feasting churchmen. Then we went to the kitchen, still more impressive in its suggestion of the stouter needs of piety. Its chimney is simply a gigantic central funnel that, rising directly from the four walls, goes towering and tapering toward the stars.

on the roofs of Avignon-an expanse of brown tiling, toned by the ages, but otherwise not greatly different from what the popes saw when this tower and these housetops wer

the season. "The mistral," our conductor said, and, though he did not cross himself,

nd willing to let that wind blow on him as a sort of benediction. It is said, however, that the mistral wind is not always agreeable in Avignon. It blows away disease, but it i

cathedral of Notre Dame des D?mes, where John XXII, who brought this glory to Avignon, lies in his Gothic tomb. All the popes of Avignon were crowned here; it was the foremost church of Christendom for the bette

a long flight to the narrow streets. Everywhere about us the lower foundations of the papal palace joined the living rock, its tow

ade friends and to say good-by. One of them said, "You are from America; perhaps you might happen to know a friend of ours there," and she named one whom we did know very well indeed-one

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1 Chapter 1 DON'T HURRY THROUGH MARSEILLES2 Chapter 2 MOTORING BY TRAM3 Chapter 3 ACROSS THE CRAU4 Chapter 4 MISTRAL5 Chapter 5 THE ROME OF FRANCE6 Chapter 6 THE WAY THROUGH EDEN7 Chapter 7 TO TARASCON AND BEAUCAIRE8 Chapter 8 GLIMPSES OF THE PAST9 Chapter 9 IN THE CITADEL OF FAITH10 Chapter 10 AN OLD TRADITION AND A NEW EXPERIENCE11 Chapter 11 WAYSIDE ADVENTURES12 Chapter 12 THE LOST NAPOLEON13 Chapter 13 THE HOUSE OF HEADS14 Chapter 14 INTO THE HILLS15 Chapter 15 UP THE ISèRE16 Chapter 16 INTO THE HAUTE-SAVOIE17 Chapter 17 SOME SWISS IMPRESSIONS18 Chapter 18 THE LITTLE TOWN OF VEVEY19 Chapter 19 MASHING A MUD GUARD20 Chapter 20 JUST FRENCH-THAT'S ALL21 Chapter 21 THE NEW PLAN22 Chapter 22 THE NEW START23 Chapter 23 INTO THE JURAS24 Chapter 24 A POEM IN ARCHITECTURE25 Chapter 25 VIENNE IN THE RAIN26 Chapter 26 THE CHTEAU I DID NOT RENT27 Chapter 27 AN HOUR AT ORANGE28 Chapter 28 THE ROAD TO PONT DU GARD29 Chapter 29 THE LUXURY OF N MES30 Chapter 30 THROUGH THE CéVENNES31 Chapter 31 INTO THE AUVERGNE32 Chapter 32 LE PUY33 Chapter 33 THE CENTER OF FRANCE34 Chapter 34 BETWEEN BILLY AND BESSEY35 Chapter 35 THE HAUTE-LOIRE36 Chapter 36 NEARING PARIS37 Chapter 37 SUMMING UP THE COST38 Chapter 38 THE ROAD TO CHERBOURG39 Chapter 39 BAYEUX, CAEN, AND ROUEN40 Chapter 40 WE COME TO GRIEF41 Chapter 41 THE DAMAGE REPAIRED-BEAUVAIS AND COMPIèGNE42 Chapter 42 FROM PARIS TO CHARTRES AND CHTEAUDUN43 Chapter 43 WE REACH TOURS44 Chapter 44 CHINON, WHERE JOAN MET THE KING, AND AZAY45 Chapter 45 TOURS46 Chapter 46 CHENONCEAUX AND AMBOISE47 Chapter 47 CHAMBORD AND CLéRY48 Chapter 48 ORLéANS49 Chapter 49 FONTAINEBLEAU50 Chapter 50 RHEIMS51 Chapter 51 ALONG THE MARNE52 Chapter 52 DOMREMY53 Chapter 53 STRASSBURG AND THE BLACK FOREST54 Chapter 54 A LAND WHERE STORKS LIVE55 Chapter 55 BACK TO VEVEY56 Chapter 56 THE GREAT UPHEAVAL57 Chapter 57 THE LONG TRAIL ENDS