The History of Australian Exploration from 1788 to 1888

watershed and finds the Macquarie River-Construction of road over the range-Settlement of Bathurst-Visit of Governor Macquarie-Second expedition under Evans-Discovery of the Lachlan River-Surveyor-Ge

cquarie- Returns to Newcastle-Currie and Ovens cross the Morumbidgee-Brisbane D

ts of the settlers, and the discovery of the Hunter River having opened so much new country for their use, no actual necessity compelled them at this period to go further

, and the severe drought in 1813 led some of the settle

ot, when each man carried his own supply of provisions, and the limit of their journey only extended a little over a hundred miles, were past.

ered the head waters of large streams flowing on a western course, with a sufficient depth of water for boat navigation, it appeared conclusive that to follow them down would in course of time lead the party doing

ad not won the key of the desert; the fashion in which nature adapted herself to climatic decrees was a lesson still to be learnt. Oxley spoke honestly when, in bitter disappointment, he prophesied the future of the great plain to be that of an unprofitable waste, wherein the work of men's ha

whilst fresh growths of herb and grass followed the footsteps of the invading herds. The shaking bogs and morasses were to become solidified, and the waters that permeated them to retreat into well defined chains of ponds and lagoons. This the first explorer could not foresee,

criticised, exploration received at his hands every encouragement, and during his tenure of office, the first steps were taken to open up the vast field of inland discovery. We must now remember that the adaptability of the co

ey crossed the Nepean at Emu Plains, and attempted to follow up a main spur forming the watershed of the Grose, and for a time successfully pursued its twists and windings, keeping to the crown of the ridge. At last, like all their predecessors, they began to get entangled in the intricate net-work of deep gullies that rendered straightforward travelling so difficult in this region. Like them, they commenced to think advance impossible, and to speak of turning back. Passages had to be cut through the thick brushwood for their pack horses, circuitous roads found around steeps too precipitous to scale, and the purpose of the journey seemed hopelessly lost. They

nd this point they proceeded about six or eight miles in order to ascertain th

btained to the higher waters of a coast river. But although this important journey fell short of one of the great aims of western exploration, namely

honour of first discovering an Australian inland river; but Blaxland a

On receipt of the news, Governor Macquarie sent out Mr. Evans with a party to at once follow up this discovery and find out what lay beyond. Evans crossed the Nepean on the 20th of November, and in six days arrived at the spot where the last party had turned back. Striking westward, he found a broken, hilly country, which w

north-west, and not being prepared for a very prolonged absence, he turned back and retraced his steps, arriving at the Nepean on the 8th January, 1814.

xland, Lawson, and Wentworth, and the confirmation of the hopes that

the same route as that taken by the first explorers; and this work was completed early in the year 1815, and on the 26th A

essful, returning with tidings of the discovery of the Lachlan River. He was absent

diately to the navigable waters of the interior, which everybody now firmly believed in; but a delay of nearly tw

st soon presented an orderly appearance. Private enterprise had also been at work elsewhere, and the early pioneer graziers were now making south from the settlement towards the Shoalhaven River and the intermediate country. It was down here t

sion in this district. In 1816 his father conducted Dr. Throsby to new country that the energy of his sons had discovered; and in March, 1817, at the time when Oxley was about starting on his Lachlan expedition, Hume, at the request of Governor M

d their journey, and dis

e country called

eed to the river and build the necessary craft. A dep?t having been formed on the Lachlan River, on the 6th of April, 1817, Mr. Oxley left Sydney to join his party there, and arrived at this dep?t on the 25th of the same m

rising, this, the first most important

William Parr, mineralogist; George Hubbard, boat builder; James King, 1st boatman and sailor; James King, 2nd horseshoer; William Meggs, butcher; Pat

boats and fourteen bat

an unexplored region. Oxley's opinion of the value of the new district had, as is evident from his journal, been steadily decreasing since leaving the dep?t. The fla

mmon seasons this whole tract is extremely badly watered, and that it derives its principal, if not only supply, from the river within the bounding ranges of Princess Charlotte's Crescent. There are doubtless many small eminences which might afford a retreat from the inundations, but those which were observed by us were too trifling and distant from each other to stand out distinct from the vast level surface which the crescent presents to the view. The soil of the country we passed over was a poor an

t, uninterrupted course down the

le to advance farther in the direction in which we were travelling. The stream here overflowed both banks

(by aid of the boats) "at a place where the water was level with the banks, and which, when within its

r thirty miles in those directions. To the south and south-west the country appeared more elevated, but low, marshy grounds lay between us and it, which rendered it impossible for us to proceed thither from our present situation. I therefore determined to return back to the place where

ll Hill, from its being the termination of our journey in a north-west direct

berland, anticipating that on this course he would intersect any river rising in these marshes and falling into the sea between Spencer's Gulf and Cape Otway. The boats wer

of eucalyptus brush, overrun with creepers and prickly acacia bushes, soon helped to bar the way, and when they at last reached the point of a range, w

f getting out of them. I was obliged to send the horses back to our former halting place for water, a distance of near eight miles this is ter

seven miles; they found it impossible to go any farther in that direction or even south, from the thick bushes that intersected their course on every s

*

ing a north-westerly course, it is my intention to be entirely guided by the possibility of procuring subsistence for the horses, that being the main point on which all our ulterior proceedings must hinge. It is, however, to be expected that as the country is certainly lower to the west and north-west than from south-east to south-west, there is a greater probability of

seeds, with the hope, rather than the expectation, that they would grow and serve to commemorate the day and situation, shou

rd on our journey to the westward and north

*

return back to our last station on the 6th, under Peel's Range, if for no other purpose than that of giving the horses water. I felt that by attempting to proceed westerly I should endanger the safety of every man composing the expedition, without any practical

en back by impenetrable scrubs and general aridity. He struck north, with the hope of shortly regaining the too well watered country he ha

practical purposes of civilised man the interior of this country, westward of a

considering that he threshold of the int

nexpectedly came upon the river again, an inciden

ighter hopes of better success, until, on the 7th of July, progress wa

rced to come to the conclusion that the interior o

gusted with the want of success that had attended their

s. One tree, one soil, one water, and one description of bird, fish, or animal prevails alike for ten miles and f

ed their downward journey, it was determined to strike to the northeastward, in order to avoid this low country and, if possible, reach the Macquarie River and follow it up to t

fertile and well-watered country; and, on the 19th of August, halted on the bank of the Macquarie, which river Oxley found t

he had now discovered the highwa

ering on them; the one constantly receiving great accession of water from four streams, and as liberally rendering fertile a great extent of country, whilst the other, from its source to its termination, is constantly diffusin

ted expectations, men's hopes were fixed. Oxley seems to have been particularly unhappy in his deductions, every guess hazarded by him as to the future utility of the country he passed

ith a wide and noble opening, and none being found on the surveyed coast, conjecture placed it far away in a few leagues of unexplored shore line on the north-west. The constancy with which th

int at which Mr. Oxley left off, to any part of the western coast, is very little short of two thousand miles. If this river, therefore, be already of the size of the Hawkesbury at Windsor, which is not less than two hundred and fifty yards in breadth, and of sufficient depth to float a seventy-four gun ship, it is not difficult to imagine what must be its magnitude at its confluence with the ocean: before it c

at it was in a most sanguine spirit th

ted on his second expedition into the interior. He had with him, as next in command, the indefatigable Evans, Dr. Harris, w

without the travellers experiencing more obstruction than might have been expected, two men, Thomas Thatcher

earing back tidings of these confident hopes, than doubt and distrust entered the mind of the lead

ery considerably lower, interspersed with plains clear of timber, and dry. On the banks it was still lower, and in many parts it was evident that the river floods swept over them,

overnor, forwarded by Mr. Ev

of the river, that its termination would be either in interior waters or coastwise. When I wrote that letter to your Excellency, I certa

ere the hopes he

n was held. It was decided to send the horses and baggage back to Mount Harris, a small elevation some fifteen miles higher up the river, whilst Oxley himself, with four volunteers and the large boat, proceeded down the river, takin

e how Oxl

but united themselves to it on a multitude of points. We went seven or eight miles farther, when we stopped for the night, upon a space of ground scarcely large enough to enable us to kindle a fire. The principal stream ran with great rapidity and its banks and neighbourhood as far as we could see, were covered wi

the stream for several miles, and I was sanguine in my expectations of soon entering the long sought for Australian sea, it all at once eluded our further search by spreading on every point from northwest to northeast, amongst the ocean of reeds that surrounded us still running with the same rapidity as before. There was no channel whatever amongst these reeds, and the depth varied from five to three feet. This astonishing change (for I cannot call it a termination of the river), of course, left me no alternative but to endeavour to return to some spot on which we could effect a landing before dark. I estimated that on this day we had gone about twenty-four miles, on nea

ned to Mount Harris, where a temporary dep?t was formed. Mr. Evans immediately started on a trip

l country was soft and boggy, excessively tiring to their jaded horses; moreover, in co

mmenced their journey to the eastern coast, making in the first place for Arbuthnot's Range. Before leaving, a bottle

ng for the range, their course lay across shaking quagmires, or wading through miles of water; constantly having to unload and reload the unfortunate horses, who could scarcely get through the bog without their packs. Before reaching the range, the party camped at the small hill, previously ascended by Mr. Evans. Here t

hest description lay before them, and from the elevations the view presented was of the most varied kind; this tract of country was called by Oxley Liverpool Plains. On Mount Tetley, and many of the hills about, the same variatio

their number narrowly escaped drowning. Still pushing eastward, and continuing to travel throug

three thousand feet. The slopes from the edges were so steep and covered with loose stones that any attempt to descend even on foot was impracticable. From either side of this abyss, smaller ravines of similar character diverged, the distance between which

. At the head of the glen they found another fall which they estimated at two hundred and thirty feet in height; crossing above this cataract, which was called Bathurst's Fall, the eas

ns, ascended a mountain to try and discover a pract

rs when, on gaining the summit of this mountain, we beheld Old Ocean at our feet: it insp

nal descent, and a p

ld willingly have compromised for a loss of one third of them to ensure the safety of the remainder. It is to the exertions and steadiness of the men, under Provide

il they reached a port at the mouth of it, which the explorer, after the fashion of the day, immediately dubbed Port Macquarie. It is an unfortunate th

hich had belonged to a Hawkesbury vessel, lost some time before; this boat they carried with them as far as Port Stephens, where they arrived on the 1st of November, using it to facilitate the passage of the salt water arms. During

for settlement; he had crossed the formidable coast range far away to the north, and established the fact that communication between his newly discovered port and the interior was practicable. Oxley's expeditions were both well equipped and well carried out, he al

young Hume, made a short excursion to Jarvis Bay

in that direction was not doomed to last long. Northward, to and beyond the Cugeegong River and the fertile valley of the Upper Hunter, southward, towards the mysterious Morumbidgee, which was now reported as having been found by the settlers, pressed the pioneers. It is not known

hurst; they were, however, unable to penetrate the range that formed the southern boundary of the Plain

and Currie were all in the f

d up the bank of it, looking for a crossing. The day before they had caught sight of a high range of mountains to the southward, partially snow-topped. In their progress along the river they came to fine open downs and plains, which, with the singularly bad taste, which still,

the snowy mountains they had formerly seen, and to the east by a range that they took to be the coast range. Their

n range on to Liverpool Plains, which Lieutenant Lawson had been unable to find. On reaching the range he searched vainly to the eastward for any valley that would enable him to pierce the barrier, and had to retrace his

n the 21st of October, therefore, 1823, he left in the colonial cutter MERMAID, accompanied by Messrs. Stirling and Uniacke. At Port Macquarie, Oxley had the pleasure of seeing the settlement that had so rapidly sprung up on his recommendation of the

y submit it as my opinion, that Port Curtis and its vicinity do not afford such a site; and I do not think that any convict establishment could be formed there that would return

ered Moreton Bay, and anchored off the river that Flinders had christened Pumice St

a mile, advancing rapidly towards the vessel; and on looking at them with the glass from the masthead, I observed one w

ng (so he stated) at one time twenty-one days without water, during which time one man had died of thirst. Finally they were wrecked on Moreton Island, and had lived with the blacks ever since-a period of seven months. Pamphlet informed them that his two compani

it; taking Finnegan with them. They found the river, and pulled up it about fifty miles, being greatly satisfied with the discovery. Not being provided for a longer trip, Oxley turned back at a point he name

entertaining a strong belief that the sources of the river will not be found in mountainous country, but rather that it flows from

the party arrived on December 13th. With regard to the shipwrecked men, it may be here mentioned that their conviction

25th of May, 1828. He had been essentially a successful explorer, for although he had not in every case attained the is

irst successful trip undertaken from shore to shore, from the eastern to the southern coast. The expeditio

who, on consideration, declined it; he, however, offered to conduct a party from Lake George, then the outermost station, or nearly so, to Western Port, if the Government provided necessary assistance. The Government accepted h is offer, but forgot to provide the assistance. This caused much delay and vexation, and Mr. Hovell, offering to join the party and find half the necessary men and cattle, the Government agreed to do something in the matter. This something amounted to six pack-saddles and gear, one tent of Parramatta cloth, two tarpaulins, a suit of slop clothes each for the men, two skeleton charts f

looded, and after waiting three days, and the river continuing the same, an attempt was made to

ing purposes. Here, as might have been anticipated, they soon had to leave their carts behind, and pack their cattle for the remainder of their journey. Following

he country ahead of them, they suddenly came in front of snowcapped mountains. There, under the brilliant sun of an Australian summer's day, rose lof

hrough the spurs of the lofty mountains they had just seen, came on a fine flowing river, which Mr. Hum

try watered by fine flowing streams, on the 24th they crossed the Ovens River, and on the 3rd of December they came to another river, which they called the Hovell (now the Goulburn),

lony had deemed the western interior, beyond a certain limit, unfitted for human habitation; and expressed his opinion that the monotonous flats over which

y in general condemnation. This lesson, however, has not been heeded; the history of Australian exploration being a history of conclusions drawn one year, to be falsified the next. Hume's journey to Port P

e of Oxley's, but unfortunately, the evil feeling of jealously that would arise from the presence of two leaders, showed plainly throughout in petty and undignified squabbles, which, in after days, led to paper warfare between the two explorers. It is painful, if amus

he did, swimming it with a line in his mouth. In the year named he signed a document, giving the credit of taking the party through in sa

he young explorer was thus singularly fortunate in having his name connected with the discovery of two of the most important rivers in Australia. In the trip just narrated he and his companion, Hovell, had arrested the hasty