The History of Australian Exploration from 1788 to 1888

iginal Freemasons-Attack Creek-Return-Stuart's second departure- The Victorian expedition-Costly equipment-Selection of a leader-Burke, and his qualifications for the post-Wills-Resignation of Landell

atives-Burke and King start in search of the blacks-Death of Burke-King finds Wills dead on his return-Wright and Brahe visit the dep?t-Fail to see traces of Burke's return-Consternation in Melbourne-Immedia

t, still embodies some of the most fruitful achievements in the history of discovery. The unfortunate result of o

e the first to cross the continent from the southern shore to the northern one. The South Australian Government had f

though he was not the first to reach salt water on the north, he was the first to sight the open sea, and actually cross from sea to sea. Nor in so doing was he aided by the former successes of other explorers. He also

hen Stuart on the north coast comes but a few weeks afterwards in July. On Stuart's track however, has been built the overland telegraph line, an enduring monument to his indomitable perseverance. His was but a small party when he started to reach the spot so a

eek, but naturally from here their cours

th feet and hands missing. Near the place was a handful of human hair, and some emu feathers, placed between two charred pieces of wood, as a sign or tok

the Frew, the Fincke, and the Stevenson, and on the 6th they reached a remarkable hill, which they had observed for some time. It proved to be a pillar of sandstone on a hill about one hundred feet high. The pillar itse

f cliffs formed the centre on the 12th. This was the highest range Stuart had yet found, and he named it MacDonnell Range, after the then Governor of South Australia; the east bluff was called Brinkley Bluff and the west one Hanson Bluff

eached the limit of the rainfall,

n, and a large reservoir found in a ledge of rocks,

Stuart. The next morning, with his tried companion, Kekwick, he climbed this mount, and on the top erected a cairn of stones, and hoisted the Union Jack. What must have been his thoughts at having, with

permanent supply under a high peak, which he called Mount Leichhardt; and while mentioning this

was in a native well. Crossing this creek they got into a dead level country, covered with spinifex and stunted gum trees. He

d the large toe projecting a good deal; in some respects more like the print of a white man than a native. Had I crossed it the day before, I would have followed it. My horses are now

rd struggle to get back

sh

avelling twenty-seven miles they had to camp without water. The next day was the same, Stuart getting a nasty fall, being pulled off by some scrub and dra

ek, which he called Tennant's Creek, destined to be the site of one of the telegraph stations of the overland line. He now made an effort to the west of north to reach the head waters of the Victoria, and got into a dry strip of country that nearly put an end to the expedition. When they at last, with some lo

d another two or three days of useless efforts to force his way through a dry belt, vainly flattering himself that he was approaching the watershed of the Gulf; but had to

as to where the next water is, but we cannot understand each other. After some time, and having conferred with his two sons, he turned round, and surprised me by giving me one of the Masonic s

but very shortly afterwards they encountered a tribe who displayed anythi

e evening rapidly closing in, they were suddenly surrounded by a number of well-armed natives, who started out of a scrub they were passing through. All signs of friendship, masonic or otherwise, were thrown away on them, and at last, after receiving two or three showers of boomerangs and waddies they had to turn and fire on them. So bold and determined were they in their attack upon the

t of the sky made him entertain the idea of another effort to reach the Victoria River; but no rain fell, and he had to keep o

uip a larger and better-organized party, of which he was to take command. Meanwhile, such a report of the results of the journey as the Government thought might prove useful to the leader

January, 1861, they were fairly on their way outside the settled districts, and here we must leave the

he memories of distinguished men. No guide, no standard is followed in the m

, equipped with everything that a generous people could provide, and that the experience of others could suggest, to make the journey safe and ensure its success-travelled through a country that is now a vast sheep and cattle walk; and frittered away his magnificent resources, wantonly sacrificing his own life and those of his men, is elevated

stance of a public body emulating the generous act of a private individual. The colony itself had no territory left to explore. Her rich and compact little provinc

smanagement attaching to its progress, the colony must ever look back with

t was all cheerfully rendered; and Victoria, in her one expedition, had the satisfaction of knowing that her

voted by Government, ￡1,000 subscribed by Mr. Ambrose Kyte,

ost complete ever provided for an exploring expedition. When the party was organised, it consisted of the leader, R. O'Hara Burke; second in command, G. J. Landells, who had brought the camels from India; t

e settled districts was a triumphant march; it almost seemed that Fate wa

al) to go outside of the colony for a man, and the tried and experienced explorers were all residents in other colonies; secondly, that the committee was, with two notable exceptio

ining he possessed no pretension, and his selection was a fatal blunder. In saying this, there is no reflection on the private character of the mistaken leader; he paid for the wrong estimation he held of his own fitness with his life, and the fault rests with those who placed him in a position where he also was responsible for the lives of others. After passing in review the different expeditions that have added so much lustre to our history, and striving to judge dispassionately of the characters of the men who, with good and evil fortune, have comma

st of the qualities that would fit him for the position he held, but apparently tempered with an amiability of disposit

igned in consequence of a quarrel with the leader. On returning to Melbourne, he expressed publicly a

his position, and has since been blamed as having caused the final catastrophe. He joined the party at Menindie, which, for the pur

al to enable the reader to understand how the astonishing blunders were so

, leaving the others to follow afterwards under the guidance of Wright, who went two hundred miles with them to point out the best route. They left Menindie on the 19th of October, 1860. On the 11th of November they arrived at Cooper's Creek, and here they camp

ave carried out its chief aim and mission of reporting on the geographical features and formation of the country he was sent to explore, and bringing back the fullest and most minute account of it, and its productions. Burke, during the most important part of his journey, left behind him his botanist, naturalist, and geologist, and started without even the means at his disposal of following up any discoveries he might make. His sole thought evidently was to cross to Carpentaria and back, and be able to say that he had done so-a most unworthy ambition on the part of the leader of such a party, containing within itself a

y discovered a fine water-course coming from the north that took them a long distance on their way, there being abundance of both water and grass along its banks. From where this creek turned to the eastward they kept steadily north, the rivers, fortunately for them,

to say that we reached the sea, but we could not obtain a view

on of their arri

, found some better ground close to the water's edge, where the sandstone rock runs out, and we stuck to it as far as possible. Finding that the river was bending about so much that we were making very little progress in a northerly direction, we struck off due north, and soon came on some tableland, where the soil is shallow and gravelly, and clothed with box and swamp gums. Patches of the land were very boggy, but the main portion was sound enough. Beyond this we came on an open plain, covered with water up to one's ankles. The soil here was a stiff clay, and the surface very uneven, so that between the tufts of grass one was frequently knee-deep in water. The bottom, however, was sound, and no fear of bogging. After floundering through this for several miles, we came to a path formed by the blacks, and there were distinct signs of a recent migration in a southerly direction. By making use of this path we got on much better, for the ground was well-trodden and hard. At rather more than a mile the path entered a forest, through which flowed a nice watercourse, and we had not gone far before we fou

hed a channel with tidal waters, and had to return without actually seeing the open sea.

been an absence of that kindly spirit of self sacrifice which is so distinguishing a feature in nearly all the other expeditions whose lines have fallen disastrously. Gray fell sick, and stole some flour to make some gruel with; for this Burke beat him severely. Wills writes on one occasion that they had to wait, and send back for Gray, who was "gammoning" that he coul

n. They could scarcely walk, and their camels were the same; they had fifty pounds of flour, twenty pounds of rice, sixty pounds of oatmeal, sixty pounds of sugar, and fifteen pounds of dried meat; a very fair stock if they only had had the means

s to attempt it; then, according to King's narrative, Burke said that instead of returning up the creek, their old route to Menindie, they would go down to Mount Hopeless

placed in the dep?t by

he two camels are done up and we shall not be able to travel faster than two or three miles a day. Gray died on the road from exhaustion and fatigue. We have all suffered much from hunger. The provisions left here will, I think, restore our strength. We have discovered a practicable route to Carpentaria, the chief portion of which lies on 140 deg. of eas

ROBERT O'H

l 22,

ot walk or we should follow the other party

off what meat they could from the body, and staying a couple of days to dry it in the sun. When they again started, the one camel they had left carried most of what they had, and they each took with them a bu

fish and nardoo. The natives were especially kind to the unfortunate men. In Wills' diary we find frequent mention of the liberal hospitality they extended to them, but to a great

eposit the journals, and a note stating their conditio

except blacks, have be

ls and a notice of ou

s the n

30th,

I am about to return to them, when we shall probably all come up this way. We are trying to live the best way we can, like

WILLIAM

ctions, has put us in this fix. I have deposited

would the blacks show it to them. At last King accidentally found it, and, by its aid, they now managed to prolong their lives. But the seeds had to be gathered, cleaned, pounded and cooked, and even after all this labour (and to men in their state it was labour) very little nourishment was derived from eating it. An occasional crow or hawk was shot, and, by chance, a little fish obtained from the nat

ve been only like a release from the trouble of living. His last entries, though giving evidences of fading faculties, are almost cheerful. He jocularly alludes to himself as Micawber, w

in from sheer weakness, and the next morning when his companion l

he wide western plain, after enduring weeks of hunger and starvation. What must have been King's feelings at finding hi

an returned to Wills, who was also dead, and all he could do was to cover the

in his pocket boo

task, but we have been aban--. We have not been followed up

inds

to the last, and placed the pistol in my hand

s time succeeded, living with their assistance until rescued by Howitt's relief party on

ng to death on Cooper's Creek, parties were soon to be

instructions, according to his own account, being (verbally) to remain at the dep?t three months, or longer, if provisions and other

o our old track at Bulloo. Two of my companions and myself are quite well; the third-Patton-has been unable to walk for the last eighteen days, as his leg has b

IAM B

pression that they were all, with one exception, fairly well, and would probably make long stages,

ock to no purpose. On Brahe's return he made an extraordinary display of energy, and returned with him to the dep?t on Cooper's Creek, at which place they arrived on the 8th of May, whilst Burke and Wills were maki

blacks had been camped there. The fires had burned to mere ashes, and left no perceptible evidence from the position of the sticks as to whether they were black men's fires or not. The ground above the caché w

the journals, he says that he could not perceive any sign of it having been visited;

e's tracks, for the long absence and silence of Wright had already caused people to feel anxious. Howitt's party was doubled and he made all speed to Cooper's Creek. Meantime the other colonies took the matter up and three more parties were in the field. Howitt, whose fortunes we must follow, started early in July; the VICTOR

al dep?t, but like all the others, he says that he could not see any sign of the caché having been touched; nor d

sandy places, and was evidently the same I had seen for the last two days. I also found horse tracks in places, but very old. Crossing the creek I cut our track, and rode after the party. In doing so I came upon three pounds of tobacco, which had lain where I saw it for some time. This, together with the knife-handle, the fresh horse tracks, and the camel track going eastward, puzzled me extremely, and led me into a hundred conjectures. At the lower end of the large reach of wa

ce where Wills had died, and found his body in the gunyah as King had described it, there it

him. On his return to Melbourne, Howitt was sent back to disinter the remains of the explorers, and bring them down to Melbour

ose lives were sacrificed on this unfortunate trip, the first three we

oper Lyons to take from Swan Hill to Wright's camp. Wright ordered him on to follow the tracks of Burke, who he supposed was about two hundred miles away; he was accompanied by the saddler of the party, McPherson, and a black boy,

lover in the shape of its leaves. These leaves are covered with silvery down, and the seeds, too, have this down on them. W

nd at the time his fellow explorers were slowly starving to death on Cooper's Creek, he was making

skirmish with the natives, on Attack Creek. This time, although the tracks of natives were numerous, they were permitted to pass peacefully onwards. Still pushing to the north, along the base of the line of broken range, that in that locality runs north and south, Stuart found and named many creeks, all of them heading from the range and forming for a considerable space good defined channels, but becoming lo

ious hedge. On the 23rd, he found the magnificent sheet of water, which he called Newcastle Waters, and which at first seemed to promise him good assistance in getting to the north, but it proved delusive. Beyond the Newcast

had proved the existence of a long line of good country, fairly well-watered, and although beyond it he had not been able to proceed, still, there was no knowing what a fresh trial might bring forth. He had,