The Old Santa Fe Trail

age across the great plains, and the strange things to be seen in the land of the Greasers, determined to explore the region for themselves; making the trip in wagons, an innovation of a star

ousand miles to tra

ose early days acro

compelled to take

ss, seeking the b

e visible except the

were constantly

from day to day w

nd arrived at the

the Great American

ome, and noiseless

carry any water with

for two days and n

t we reached the

ourselves and our

joy at discoveri

ad scarcely quenc

may, a large band

urtive glances at

r, aroused our wor

felt we were not

ontrary to our exp

to molest us, and

ferred to wait for

omehow learned of o

co a large herd of

Fe on the 20th of

ter having our st

house, were grant

majority of the

d started on their

ne of us behind

September, those o

ced our homeward j

d fifty mules and h

of silver coin. Not

until we arrived at

intended to enca

ions of peaceable

we rode up on the

our eyes was appall

ehensions. It wa

tly there for the

ld neither turn ba

count of the mount

realized, when too

a t

road open to us;

the bravest look po

tion for immediate

nture. The chief m

id, in Spanish: "Y

men will guard you

f buffal

er of our situatio

f time to hurry t

son, and myself wer

on horseback; obser

ading them, the bl

their masks of dis

he time for a str

rode on, seized o

n us. Ellison and

ay, but Captain M

and cruelly scalped

from his gha

hting them off unti

hind, and as darkne

to go into camp ou

a stake, and went

of us could do so

peding. We corral

and the Indians kep

rious charges. We

be infinitely pre

so we resolved t

as po

de but five miles;

difficult matter

annoyance was kep

d us, then let up

th, to suddenly ch

thus to harass us u

from los

Cimarron, we once

attered ourselves

out twelve o'clock

eir demoniacal yel

s so terribly, that

arty, named Hitt,

the stolen stock

ly escaped from th

ded in sixteen p

awked, and speared

of their number ha

for a time, while

ull, went back to

m, the harness, an

the night, when t

pparently confiden

d they made charge

fortifi

upon us. There we

we resolve to di

e in the black h

e situation. Our

ly in the face, a

d, we determined to

out our resolve, i

together with a la

e impossible to tak

r flight; so we pac

and, bidding our

ll, stepped out in

ried away from t

as easterly, but we

r to avoid the In

e next day, and a

he Arkansas River,

whole time excepting

eel weak from the w

t this point we d

ing all of the mo

g only a small s

all island in the

en thousand silver

between two co

t we were out of

ans, we shot a buf

ate without salt o

d better to me

urney northward for

g Pawnee Fork, we t

rriving again on th

three days, we arr

again and went eas

at point, we had b

out from subsisti

med as if there wa

own and die. Final

the best-preserv

hundred miles, f

nce; the other fi

could until succ

ive selected to go

et the terrible su

, and it was getti

irely barefooted, a

of blood at every

intensely, occas

coud not hear the r

ce of only

our men laid down

hem no farther, an

We left them and we

dry branch sever

m which we succeed

although black and

ded it with jealou

ut daylight, and th

to resume the wear

d at the Big Blue

ch we discovered a

ence. The occupants

ly very poor, but t

ey were stewing. Wh

frightened, because

ng beings. They jum

devouring the pum

meat which they h

too sore to eat

he cabin and took

e had subsisted f

, a crow, and some

of wild grapes, a

good people they wi

asted bread or salt

ewly found friends

endence, all ridin

ad gone on to noti

we arrived general

ed, and when the p

xcitement prevaile

re population flock

ry of our adventur

so much needed.

ard, presenting suc

sympathy was imm

be

ehind us on the Tra

uggling toward In

heir sufferings. In

een horses started

Independence sever

d all the men just

nd exhaustion. Tw

rom Independence,

Trail fifty miles fu

f the unfortunate p

s seemingly brough

rapped in rags; bu

h each other in th

care the sufferers

at we had had enough

ip; not so, howeve

n the same journey

egular soldiers, wa

s' caravans to the

nd Mexico, and we w

ried, the command h

ait our return until

nworth about the 1

plains. Many of th

fore, and found gre

At Walnut Creek w

been thrown into th

ceeded in dragging

rape vine, we caugh

dispose of. One mo

atest state of exci

enormous herd of bu

t them by platoons

t

columns, and for

camped, in which

y. Frequently some

horned toad in be

a very long time

nke

ly, we arrived at

countries, and went

t a squad of soldie

r old party, who

ars, to find it.

kansas than our c

we reached the me

d the coin safe,

ay, and the silver

idity of any one

y travellers on th

, and it would have

simply poured i

sacks and deposited

amp, started for S

the traders. We ha

uard met Indians. T

yards of us, one ma

y being completely

ff, and all his cl

cannon, but the Mex

uch a way that it c

nything in the firs

ned loose upon the

at the ter

crossing of the Ar

ur assistance. Th

by fully two thousa

ed there for the pu

of the soldiers w

e cowardly savage

iley accompanied u

eeing no more Indi

ca

r a week, then met

he plains hunting

y and were drying

ady to return and

Fe tog

untain the India

brush, intending to

in the advance a

ore discovering t

nd camped on the

t hunting and sh

ed a companion to g

hey saw the Indian

illed the panther

tains"; but his c

d by the savages

he c

hange our destinati

f Santa Fe, but t

troops to stop us,

soldiers remained

Santa Fe, where we d

make preparations

y to start back,

amilies, comfortabl

e Mexican governme

army, with five

o the camp of

o trouble until

out sunset, just a

ight, the sentine

proaching; they fi

hey had been disco

riendly overtures;

command of Colonel

, saying the fello

p with them unless

; they pretended t

them put his gun

led the trigger. In

eral of Viscarra'

umber of mules. F

ried to get away,

illed thirty-five.

nd proceeded to s

trophies on the poi

ndulged in a war-

early m

to see a beautiful

preceding night, an

erruption, safely a

e, where Major Rile

his time having ex

t Leavenworth. A co

s Colonel Viscarra

and see his troops.

t distance away, a

ommands then went

ring the disciplin

and having a ge

greatly admired o

in a very cou

Leavenworth late

scattered. I recei

d on the island, a

few of whom I hav

tes of this same p

d sufficiently st

r teams, our wago

sortment of mercha

f wagons that ever

Before we had tra

were one evening

ing in a country w

nd. The grass was

ring how our fire

our coffee, or co

er, while diligen

ze, suddenly disco

quantity of buffalo

ire under way, his

ling over the

ta Fe without inc

in of wagons that

he quaint old town,

iosity to t

est, sight-seeing,

jaded animals, pr

p. All the money w

ld and silver, prin

which, each member

he could convenie

t, much more than h

the third day ou

least trouble, o

were left upon t

le mule to pursue

ans and Indians ha

made such an effe

n who had broken t

were so unprepared

d not approach with

complish their ob

ithin si

nt had somewhat su

d been done, it wa

to guard the camp

f they could not

nt to Santa Fe ha

len animals; but wh

at by the offici

o difficulty, howe

a small sum, whic

to camp. By this

stealth and treach

ntry we were. We, t

vent a repetition

ilant guard n

very well, and wh

d miles eastwardl

y predatory bands,

hing, we relaxed our

before dawn, the w

ost horrible noise

blade of grass a

a few moments every

eady for any eme

band of Indians ma

le-shot of the wa

everal hours, the

pering off out of

d carry them. Som

e closer to the cor

f an old-fashioned

is b

ot all to fire at

ty, who were watch

d they could see

Indians as the bu

terward that a nu

that several had d

s only, and in orde

me near the corral

e getting the worst

l the stock, aban

ession of the camp

ters of the

ty-five pioneers up

ily and terribly

ny character but ou

of dangerous, tra

ments. We had an

absolutely worthle

othing we coul

ge had ridden away

de of the river, e

relate of his indiv

lled, many receive

ried through life

the thigh by an a

had my ramrod sho

, the ball just gr

all portion of th

riences, but none we

t incident to the b

our condition ful

robbed, we were o

e our money easily

e hundred miles beh

anything but pleas

s for thirty-five me

a burden greater t

e with it? We woul

ettlements, yet the

accept. A vigilant

t, during which t

ing a renewal

as there were no

decided to reconno

e of recovering a

, which we though

e main herd. Thre

camp to guard it

d the hills and r

le anywhere; the

the direction th

be dis

e afternoon when

inue the search an

ithin a mile of it,

on an adjoining hi

rection, and had pr

e Indians jumped f

me and the wagon

ad been watching

ey saw the savage

rsuit, running at

y re

overtook me, and

, but in an instan

fore he could get

e. By this time the

thrown grabbed me

handle myself, whi

y task in pushing m

rd the camp and m

Indians held my

third one, who was

t a tomahawk, and

the same time looki

a tremendous effor

s, plunged his hatc

instead of scuff

t, I merely turned

apon was buried i

ng my

that he had missed,

ugging his head i

ver his other sho

the blow was evade

ictim's head. Not

third attempt must

same motions, with

is strength into th

d, and spent its

escuing party had

from risking anothe

Indians in Spanish

run or the Americ

s grasp, he scam

as his legs could t

of lead fired from

e tra

an had returned to

had been recovered

earts, we took tu

long night. The n

le, and having had

nd cooking utens

again turned to t

us, in which we had

rted on foot for ou

us region a

ten out of sight of

ty, happening to tu

large volume of s

e knew that all

been forced to lea

lthough we had been

ans, they had bee

this fact warned

nce in guardi

were very heavy,

ut anything to re

earisome march; b

our loads became

re rapidly diminis

t even in the exerc

ck of provisions w

settlements, so som

d to hunt for game

essful, the very b

untry in its ext

ravel, despite our

d that there was l

ft. Day after day

"No game!" For two

ndividual was but

taken three

er, fortune smiled u

returned to camp

n broiling over a

and our drooping

the turkey was co

d one of the comp

in a few moments it

th the o

o the pangs of hun

us, and one day w

o-wallow and suck

ad been stamping i

strength, yet ea

forlorn situation.

it was with the g

ll. To divide the

hind to starve, or

ges, was not consi

remained, and that w

nient camping-grou

helter established

ible. Here the weak

trongest scoured th

During this tempora

ful than before,

some smaller anim

dry fuel of the

and juicy steak wa

the

to eat and a few d

nd were enabled t

ow in the buffalo r

ortunate enough to

, thus keeping our

and starvat

our good fortune

the remainder of

cumbersome, it was d

good place we came

stolen by our ene

ourney had been ac

e river to which w

trees, dug a hol

ced the sod over t

o conceal every sig

no Indians had be

ut was kept in all

savage might hav

k finished, with mu

han ever, we again

thus relieved, we

antity of

ntil we supposed w

ments, some of our

the best course t

; one portion to p

easier stages, an

lements, they were

g on wearily behi

than the others re

ediately sent a p

rades; so, at last

r ho

escort ever sent for the protection of the caravans of traders going and returning between Western Missouri and Santa Fe. Captain Philip St. George Cooke, of the Dragoons, accom

ay, had been abandoned by the Third Infantry on account of its unhealthiness. It was the 5th of June that Riley crossed the Missouri at the

es and horses, the former preponderating. Five days' marching, at an average of fifteen miles a day, brought them to Council Grove. Leaving the Grove, in a short time Cow Creek was reached, which at that date abounded in fish; many of which, says the jour

ley,21 bordered by high sand

he hills, we saw f

ile after mile of

morning, when our

the river, we pas

d in front and cl

g a distance scarce

asion, a bull had

without seeing us,

stood a moment sh

ge at the column

ed at him, two or t

right onward he c

ril at every leap,

e momentum of a l

which the frighten

is heels and soon

icked violently fo

muscles retaining

ten

ts destination-Chouteau's Island, then on the boun

march no further; a

as like the establ

-channel o

aders had always us

xperiment, and it

r when water was ve

ant consi

the departure of t

uiet rest on a ho

number of horseme

e all flocked out

y were soon recog

the caravan had b

he sand hills, by

me of their compani

of course, for hel

n; the word was gi

magic. The oxen

ily yoked to the w

Then I deemed myse

wo before, while e

a tin cup-notoriou

ping it hot-it was

the stocking, it

Being thus hors de

a horse, which was

the rear guard to

te, and the wagon

uckily took that

fore all were over

e reached the encam

quiet, and remai

of our bugles, th

of Indians movin

eived ourselves an

efenceless situati

mphitheatre of sand

thin gun-shot all

racticable entr

some mounted trade

ommand, had ridden

pass beyond this sp

Indians; all fled a

mule, was abandone

in. The Indians, p

but notwithstanding

nd, dared not att

their wagons; and t

to make a single

d their enemi

oor fellow's body,

this sand hollow, w

and advancing thr

e to occupy the c

t the traders at l

rt

g broke clear and cl

one of those terri

lains. The oxen w

oing on; the train

unyoked, but the

to graze. Late t

for about ten mi

creek, and fortun

stream, a pool o

as discovered. On

k the dead bodies

of the sun that

point, it was det

exican territory.

in motion to retu

and no further ad

Arkansas River, the term of enlistment of four of the soldiers of Captain

dvice they determ

aving marched sev

ountry, being of

prospect, without

and, save the trai

cation that the co

was exceedingly d

ere around us, and

se men; and being

ugust on foot for

ee of the four retu

ing about fiftee

ty mounted Indians

cceeded in extrica

en committed; but

d at their forbea

m to give them toba

act he was shot

incredibly short

d a shot; and the

ers to reserve the

with some effect.

ans would have rus

eloaded. They man

t in safety

d to wait here fo

was expected ea

isted of salt and h

f fifteen days' ful

ndent upon hunting

the grass bad, w

ng up and down th

hing we did after

th flour barrels,

er was always fou

feet varying with

r, but clear and c

ces; these, with n

for smoking and d

l defence, at least

tary duty, done by

going out with a

ond support or ev

any thousands of

ntained. Officer

s always awake and

uty. Night alarms w

n our clothes, we

y, and with scarc

n the grass in fr

wever wet, we somet

w miles below Chout

an alarm was given

until daylight. D

mile or two off, l

s. A captain, howe

the river after bu

nt. In his absenc

ping down the rive

cattle were secu

ch I was lieutena

d support the firs

the quicksands an

sandbar in the mi

and of Indians, wh

dge. The balls w

e; I felt an invo

ng to return the co

nd the company fi

on was not percei

ed out of our vie

nd we were astonish

ushes on the same b

t, and we heard tha

s, who had been k

just left, a form

rder, and hoping

of the river. In c

arm-pits, but when

the Indians had de

sting eyes beyond

ians riding on bo

d been deserted,

hills. At this ju

ross and recover t

old soldier and a

arrow still trans

scalp

of October, we a

, we saw smokes ar

gnals, indicating t

ation and march, but

the Mexicans or ou

e of animals, we

tantly attended by

eemed to have a gen

metimes a hundred

e-would approach

he column, and thr

sastrous to the mule

cover of the shades

, our tatterdemali

rth, and took quie

sheds left by the

ecedin