The Stranger in France
Postilions.-Norman Horses.-Bolbec.-Natives of Caux.-Ivetot.-Return
f travelling to Paris, from Havre, to those who have more time at their command
o
onfleur, by the
to Pontaudem
udemar to
le to Rouen,
to Rolleboi
se to Pontois
se to Paris
owever, is tedio
ed from the rain above, by the projecting roof of the coach, and in front by two heavy curtains of leather, well oiled, and smelling somewhat offensively, fastened to the roof. The inside, which is capacious, and lofty, and will hold six people with great comfort, is lined with leather padded, and surrounded with little pockets, in which the travellers de
s, which are always placed, with much ceremony, like two tubs, on the right side of his Rosinante, just before he ascends. These curious protectors of his legs, are composed of wood, and iron hoops, softened within by stuffing, and give him all the dignity of riding in a pair of upright portmanteaus. With a long lash whip in his hand, a dirty night cap and an old cocked hat upon his head, hallooing alternately "à gauche, à droit," and a few occasional sacre dieus, which seem always properly applied, and perfectly understood, the merry postilion drives along his cattle. I must not fail to do justice to the scientific skill with which he manages on horseback, his long and heavy coach whip; with this comman
ng, it was filled with sincere regret for the afflictions of their country, and with expressions of love and gratitude towards the english. They told us many little tales of politeness, and humanity which they had received from my countrymen in the various to
oncluded a little narrative of some kindness which he had received, by saying, "if the english and my country are not friends, it shall not be for want of my prayers. I fled from France without
r of those who have the care of them, in excellent condition. I was surprised to see these lit
d of the revolution as soon
y the most romantic scenery of woods and corn fields, we saw ruined convents, and roofle
om Havre, where we had excellent coffee, butter, and rolls. A
r heads in a very peculiar, and in my humble opinion, unbecoming manner. I made a
province of C
which prevailed in England, that this part of France was then in a state of famine. From this town, the road was beautifully lined with beech, chesnut, and apple trees. The rich yellow of the rape seed which overspread the surface of many of the fields on each side, was very animating to the eye. From this vegetable the country people express oil, and of the pulp of it make cakes, which the norman horses will fatten upon. We had an early dinner at Ivetot, five leagues distant from Bolbec. In ancient periods this miserable town was once the capital of a separate kingdom. In our dining room were three beds, or rather we dined in the bed room. I use the former expression out of compliment to the pride of our little host, who replied with some loftiness to one of our companions, who, upon entering the roo
olemnly replied, "I am very sorry, citizen, but I have none, if you had been fortunate enough to have been here about three weeks since, you might have had some." It was more than I
forlorn wretchedness and importunity, which have been s
f high, for sale; it had been cast preparatory to the reinauguration of the archbishop of R
w to turn new circumstances to advantage, had just learnt a fresh mode of soliciting money, by repeating the Lord's
mongst the surviving aborigines of the revolution. As an instance of it, a naval officer of rank and intelligence, who joined us at Ivetot, informed us, that he had occasion, upon some matters of business, to meet Santerre a few days before; that inhuman and vulgar revolutionist, who comma
ade in trade, not in the trade of blood; for it appears that Robespierre was not a very liberal patro
le elms, which compose them in four stately rows, are all nearly of the same height. Judge of my surprise-Upon our rapidly turning the corner of a street, as we entered the city, I suddenly found coach, horses and all, in the aisle of an ancient catholic church. The gates were clos
ng devolved to the nation as its property, by force of a revolutionary decree, ha
ace of the altar; and the horses were very
res and a half for our places and
m Mount St
TE
town, planted wi