Travels in the Central Parts of Indo-China (Siam), Cambodia, and Laos (Vol. 2 of 2)

of Korat-Temple of Penom-Wat-Return to Chaiapume-Poukiéau-Mo

him the letter from Khrom Luang, and another from the Governor of Korat; but all in vain. He replied that, if I wanted oxen or elephants, there were plenty in the forest. I might easily have done without the assistance of this functionary, and pr

TO BA

e Governments of Siam and France, concluded by M. de Montigny, which obliges the king to afford assistance and protection to the French, and especially to missionaries and naturalists. It was a sad loss of time for me, and might occasion me ser

e stringent letters to the governors of the provinces of Laos, and left Bangkok once more, after having experienced for a fortnight the kind hospit

atenacci, fro

AT THE FUNERAL OF

, one for the mandarins of all provinces under his jurisdiction, commanding them to furnish me with as many oxen and elephants as I might require. The greater

nting. I could have said the same, if, like him, I had started with any illusions; but I had a good idea of the forest, which I had already passed at several points, as at Phrabat, Khao Khoc, and Kenne Khoé, and amidst w

HROUGH TH

provisions wherewith to make a comfortable repast: then choosing, for want of an altar, some large tree, they laid out their dishes, lighted their matches, burned a quantity of gilt paper, and, kneeling down, murmured their prayers. Both on entering an

season, carries off one or two out of every ten who travel here. I think the number of those who fall victims to this terrible journey must be considerable in the rainy season, when every torrent overflows its bounds; the whole soil is soaked, the pathways nothing but bogs, and

AL AT

e I was able to save by administering quinine in good time, but the other, wh

oxen could only appease their hunger with leaves from the shrubs. The river, which flows down from these hills,

OF K

e Siamese from penetrating to their haunts. They have neither temples nor priests; they raise magnificent crops of rice, and cultivate several kinds of bananas, which are only found among tribes of the same origin. Many of the inhabitants of the neighbouring dis

food to the wild beasts, and repacked our goods, we resumed our march. Towards eleven o'clock, having quitted Dong Phya Phai, we ente

and covered with blocks of sandstone; and here the vegetation was extremely luxuriant. The air was fresh and pure, and, thanks to repeated a

urt, from a Sket

MOUHOT IN THE

ch our guides feasted. Beyond these mountains the soil becomes sandy again and vegetation scanty. We encamped once m

self like a sombre rampart, above which tower the dome-lik

tting down branches which he covers with leaves, and I am thus raised from the earth and protected from the dew. These guides lead a hard life, tramping in all seasons along these wretched roads, having scarc

CE OF

stag and panther skins, raw silk from Laos, langoutis of cotton and silk, peacoc

ch, Sikiéou, are kept six hundred oxen belonging to the king. The journey from Keng-Ko? to Korat occupied ten days. The Chinese quarter of this latter to

OF

nd caravans. It is not that they enjoy complete immunity, for the governor, son of Bodine, the general who conquered Battambong and the revolted provinces, is viceroy of the state, has absolute power of life and death, and is, they say, very severe, cutting off a he

e, hoping to find a house rather larger than the one where Phrai had set

the distant mountain-a work which I at once recognised as that of the Khmerd?m. Within is the residence of the governor and those of the other authorities, several pagoda

se friendly and kind. It was the contrast between civilization and barbarism-between the mass of vices engendered by idleness, and the good qualities cultivated by habits of

to the influence of the seductive drug in their dark and filthy hovels, lighted only by a single lamp. Yet, in spite of their gambling, most of them grow ric

ferior quality, is an important article of commer

N OF THE

containing as many as fifty or sixty thousand inhabitants. This little state is simply tributa

, amounts to eight ticals a head. Some pay in silk, which is weighed by the mandarins, who, as with the cardamom

hese animals in each province. Oxen and buffaloes were formerly exceedingly cheap, but the distemper, which has for some years committed great ravages a

OM-

tracted me, and which, like an oasis, could be recognised a long way off by the freshness of its cocoa-trees and its rich verdure. I did not arrive there, however, without having taken an involuntary bath. In crossing the Tekon, which is nearly four feet deep, I, in order to escape a wetting, tried to imitate Franconi, by standi

nacci, from a Sk

AN BRANG,

sed of two pavilions, with vaulted stone roofs and elegant porticoes. The roofs are from seven to eight metres in height, the gall

laces beginning to decay. On one of the doors is a long inscription, and above are

ls in stone, the largest of which is 2 metres 50

chitecture, the same taste displayed, the same immense blocks polished like marble, and so beau

which have left the traces of their grandeur in different parts of the empire. The exterior is not equal to the interior. Penom was

question the natives about places more than a degree distant would have been useless. My desire was to reach Louang-Prabang by land, to visit the northern tribes dependent on that state, and then again to descend the Mekong to Cambodia. Se

TO CH

rs for my baggage; so at last I was able to set out for Chaiapume. Before I started, the Chinese with whom I lodged gave me the following advice:-"Buy a tam-tam, and, wherever you halt, sound it. They will say, 'Here is an officer of the king;' robbers will keep aloof, and the authorities will respect you. If this does not answer, the only plan to

ceroy of Korat made the mandarin as supple as a glove, and he provided me with other elephants for a visit to some ruins existing about 3 leagues north of the to

Y TO P

her, which, however, is much longer. The first day we started at 1 o'clock, and reached a village named Non Jasiea, where we were overta

of mud. I never in my life passed such wretched nights, as all the time we had to remain with our wet clothes on our backs, and I cannot describe what we suffered. The snow hurricanes, so frequent in Rus

f stone obstruct the road in various parts, but our oxen and elephants made

be seen great numbers of deer, and tigers are not uncommonly met with. In the mountains are many elephants and rhinoceros. We found immense beds of stone, and in some places saw small brick buildings containing idols. During the jo

KIE

turned from Korat, and had heard of my intended journey. Poverty and misery reign here; we cannot find even a fi

s, cry out first, "Look at the white stranger," but "A little dog!"

ns make offerings to the loca

ther encircles Cambodia like a belt, runs along the shores of the gulf, and forms a hundred islands; stretches directly northwards, continually increasing in siz

luge, which continued with intervals of two or three days; but this did not stop me, although I had

ourt, from a Sk

NTS BA

ELEP

al as many as fifty or a hundred. Without this intelligent animal no communication would be possible during s

en trees, crushing down the smaller trees and bamboos which oppose his progress, or lying down flat on his stomach that the cornacs (drivers) may the easier place the saddle on his back; a hundred times a day making his way, without injuring them, between trees where there is barely room to pass; sounding with his trunk the depth of the water in the streams or marshes; constantly kneeling down and rising

, about 250 or 300 pounds, is all that I ever saw the largest elephants carry easily, and 18 miles is the longest distance they can accomplish with an ordinary load. Ten or twelve miles a

urt, from a Sket

NTS CROSSING THE

from the manner in which they tattoo themselves-is inhabited by the same race, the "white-bellied Laotians,

RN LA

thing that distinguishes them is, that they tattoo the under part of the body, principally the thighs, and frequently wear the hair long and knotted on the top of their heads.

itively worded. Wherever I went, the authorities were ordered to furnish me with elephants, and supply me with all necessary provisions, as if I were a king's envoy. I wa

and the sight of it alone sufficed, with the sound of the tam-tam, to inspire fear, whilst small prese

GS OF TR

dry season, but, during the rains, nothing can give an idea of the sufferings of travellers at night, under a miserable shelter of leaves hastily spread over a rough framework of branches, assaulted by myriads of mosquitoes attracted by the light of the fi

a man twenty feet off, and hasten to suck his blood with wonderful avidity. To coat your legs

own of a district belonging to two provinces, Petchaboune and L?me. It is situated in a narr

hérond, from

LEPHANTS, E

ERA

tin. The iron only is worked, and this population, half agriculturists, half artisans, furnish spades and cutlasses to all the surrounding provinces, even beyond Korat. Yet they have neit

d carry it home. There, in another cavity they make a fire, which a child keeps alive by means of a couple of bellows, which are simply two trunks of hollow trees buried in the ground, and upon which pl

of the villages the inhabitants employ their leisure time in searching for gold, but t

to fifty houses each; and six small towns, with a population of from four to

VE

first of these, 35 metres wide, is called the Menam Chie, lat. 15° 45′; second, the Menam Leuye, 90 metres wide, lat. 18° 3′; third, the Menam Ouan

avigable for a very short distance on account of their numerous rapids; neither is there any water-communication between the

coats, and keep their hair long, which, when combed, gives the younger ones a more interesting appearance than those have who live on the banks of the Menam;

ocourt, from

IAN

orting all their merchandise on elephants. Nearly every year a caravan arrives from Yunnan and Quangsee, composed of about a hundred person

ree is cultivated for the sake of furnishing food to a particular insect which

emity of the state of Louang Prabang, and from a district tributary both

E-THE

I have seen before in this country; and everything betokens a degree of prosperity which I have also remarked wherever I have stopped since. The Mekon at this place is much larger than the Menam at Bangkok, and forces its way between the lofty

proceeded as far as Thadua, ninety miles farther north, and during eight days passed through much the same style of country as before, changing one valley for another, and crossing mountains which became more and more elevat

NCE OF

a Phai to this district, who drink the water of the mountain rivulets, are disfigured by

ing with elephants in a region like this. Usually, among the caravan there are one or two females, followed by their young, who run about from one side to a

very different appearance. Where it is narrowest the width is above 1000 metres, and it everywhere runs between lofty mountains, down whose sides flow torrents,

G PRA

uation is very pleasant. The mountains which, above and below this town, enclose the Mekon, form here a kind of circular valley or amphitheatre, nine miles in diameter, and which, there can be no doubt, was anciently a lake. It

es are built on the left bank. The most considerable part of the town surrounds an i

not advance nearer than seven days' journey off. A beautiful stream, 100 metres wide, unites with the great river to the north-east of the town, and leads to some Laotian and savage v

AIN T

ive people, divided into tribes speaking different dialects, but whose manners and customs are the same. All the villages in the immediate neighbourhood are tr

to be seen on the tops and sides of the mountains; in fact, they employ the same means as wild animals to escape from thei

n this little state, and who bear the title of kings. I know not why, but

resemblance, yet there exist shades of difference which distinguish them at once, and are apparent in their dialect, or rather patois, and in their manners, which are more simple and affable. They are all much

take, and what various accidents may befall them! Those who in museums contemplate the works of Nature

LAOT

is a curious mixture of cunning and simplicity. They do not as yet seem to me to merit their reputation for hospitality,-a virtue which appeared to be much more practised in Siam. I should never

ons are calcareous rocks, sandstone, slaty sandstone, and lime mixed with clay; the sandstone i

se, but in every village have seen Birmans, Kariens, and people from Western Laos. I have found men in Lao-Pouene moulded like athletes and of herculean strength, and thought that the King of Siam might raise in this province a fi

now seems to me like an old friend: I have so long drunk of its waters, it has so long either cradled me on its bosom or t

KENNE THAO

times there is no path at all, or else it is obstructed by bamboos and branches which interlace and often catch hold of your saddle.

s 80 degrees of heat. I am getting tired of these people, a race of children, heartless and unenergetic. I sigh and look every

s, looking like a grand and gloomy rampart. The chirp of the crickets alone breaks the stillness. In my little cottage all is calm and tranquil; the view from my w

G PRA

he Prince of Louang Prabang, who was going there to pay tribute. I did all I could to induce him to remain with me, but he seemed to have made up his mi

URE OF

, and recommended him from me to a mandarin whom I knew. I gave him all that was necessary for his journey, even if it lasts three months, and on his arrival at Bangkok he will receive his money. On taking leave he prostrated himself before me; I took hold of his hands and raised him up, and then he burst into tears. And I, in my turn, when I had bid him farewell, felt my eyes fill, nor do I know when I shall be quite calm, for I have before me, da

Lange, from a Sk

. MOUHOT BY TH

August I was presented to the King and to his cousin. On the

EMPER

ahr. This is the maximum I have not