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With the Battle Fleet

Chapter 10 PERU'S WARM-HEARTED GREETING

Word Count: 8848    |    Released on: 06/12/2017

Nautical Point of View-Interchange of Good Wishes by Admiral Thomas and President Pardo-Charms of a City That Survives F

Louisiana, U.

o Harbor,

remem

yesterday may be the foes of to-day, and that nations, as nations, have no memories. If it is true, Peru is the rule proving exception. Her gracious welcome to t

d the torch were employed in a heartless exhibition of brutality to mark as permanently as possible the pathway of a mocking conquerer; when the vandalism of victory even destroyed the trees of botanical gardens, robbed altars of decorations, cut paintings from frames to make bonfires, pillaged the savings of children, destroyed civic utilities for the sake of wan

ul and steadfast. That was a quarter of a century ago and Peru said she would remember. Her hospitality to the great American fleet proved that she did. She is no longer poverty stricken. She is fairly well-to-do and things are loo

of entertainment as our hearts could wish. We can't lavish wealth up

of high breeding. From the first gun of the cruiser Bolognesi, sent 250 miles out to sea to escort the fleet in to Callao, to the last "Eep! Eep! Eep! Oorah!" on

expressed officially by Rear Admiral Thomas on board the Connecticut on

h the perfection of every detail and the artistic taste displayed at every entertainment from the time the fleet dropped anchor in Callao Bay to the occasion of the brilliant garden party

ing their respective homes, each and every one of them will be a missionary to carry a message throughout our broad land from the Atlantic to the Pacific, from the Canadian border to the Gulf of Mexico, telling of this welco

the republic gave to the Americans on the night of Washington's Birthday. This translation of the

by the Government of Peru and her citizens, as it gives us an opportunity for showing the true friendship which exi

the masts of the most powerful fleet that has ever navigated the Pacific Ocean, as well as by your most successful accomplishment of thi

esident Roosevelt's policy in the relations of the United States with the Latin-American countries and their relations between themselve

ican fleet. Peru receives you with hearty friendshi

gton, the founder of its glorious independence and of its admirab

ts eminent President, Mr. Roosevelt, and that good l

miles out. The harbor was crowded with all sorts of little craft laden to the danger point. Every tug, every launch, all the sailboats that could be found, rowing barges, dories, two large ocean-going steamers, came out to say howdy and bearing

the arrival of the fleet and that all of Callao and Lima, seven miles distant, had come down to see the ships. The stores and shops were closed as if it were Sunday. Business was at a standstill. Off

tween Brooklyn and Coney Island. Truck farms were frequent. What looked to be American corn was growing profusely side by side with banana trees and sugarcane fields. Patches of good old fashioned vegetables-onions, cabbages, radishes, lettuce-were also under cultivation. Large herds of fine cattle grazed on some of the fie

one city in the Western Hemisphere which has preserved a large amount of the architecture of the Middle Ages and is rich in traditions of the past. There in this city of 150,000 people with its well paved streets, its bustling activities, its fine clima

o the Amer

ome other way, and so these placards voiced the feeling of the people. If anything else were needed to complete the greeting it was supplied when the Diario, the leading newspaper of Lima, came out with halftone reprod

ife of Peru, have attended with sincere exhilaration to contemplate the

-denial, the moral energy, the patriotic pride of race, all those eminent faculties wh

ica to offer its hospitable strand to serve as a shelter duri

rteous nobleness of our race, with the sympathetic and respectful admiration wh

, to the initiative of its men, a people which has not forsworn the splendid incentives of its ideals, and which carries within itself as a secret impulse to irradiate its spir

statesman, induced President Roosevelt to order the movement of the Atlantic fleet to the Pacific coast. The illustrious governor who carries on his shoulders the enormous responsibility of directing this great people has proved himself worthy

nited States have many efficacious resources for dissolving or removing indefinitely the threatening and apocalyptic

ing population, their formidable means of attack and defence which we contemplate to-day, all the

Americans feel at ease. Of course the printed English translation failed to do full credit to the

d piled up. As soon as the paper came out and the Americans had passed the word along that it was great there was a

the world except Brooklyn. Of course we are used to such expressions as 'colossal fermentation of greatness,' 'threatening and apocalypt

e met at the terminal of the trolley line from Callao with men who distributed a pamphlet of information got out

to the men of the

go and what to see among the "points of interest." The way it put the matter was this: "Over and above a hearty welcome, here's w

you'll spoil the market,

sundry items of advert

r Prices.-"Swear Words" and Ho

, Sherry ("hair ace") Port (Oporto) etc. all cost the same. The Cocktai

and the harder you pronounce i

pronoun

ced as spelt (Rosev

(seegay no m

e Toros

Toros B

o B

Bull

his is the man who fi

oro, "put the Bull out. he's no

..!!!........!!!

n expressions if your spa

rk, Steeplechase, nor the Hippodrome, you'll mo

sojourn in this "City of the Kings" and

ace. It was the inside decoration that cost so much, for it has rare wood carvings, and once was fairly plastered with gold and silver stolen by Pizarro, "the pious old cutthroat," from the Incas. You see, Pizarro founded Lima in 1535, and although he was known as the "Indian butcher," he beg

explained that Pizarro had found out that it never rained where he intended to set up in Lima and therefore he told the Incas they really

ad been reading up the history of the

everent or flippant. Many of them paused a long time before the mortal remains

n saint, rest. Then there were numerous other edifices with old doors and heavy bolts and locks, and inside some of them were decorated with what seemed to be solid sheets of gold about their pillars; ch

in Spain and was almost as terrible. In fact in this viceregal city, the second founded in the Americas by the Spanish, one could see religious emblems at every turn. Just outside the city on a hill overlooking the bullring is an enormous cross, probably fifty fee

od of Lima came out from their devotions he would have been convinced that Peru is really no exception to other Latin American countries, and indeed most other countries, in that the wom

t that the headdress of the women, worn universally, is the black manta. It is said that it is a relic that has come down from the Incas when they p

for the rest-well, a man has no business to write about women's hats. All that this man can say is that he never saw more dazzlin

d about her surpassing beauty is true. Given great beauty and the love of a hat on the part of a woman-what chance has a black manta got? The manta has got to go an

bs of the city were thrown open. All th

ndows and doors of scores of shops. One si

n Spoke

ewing M

ark where sundry exhibits of great worth from the standpoint of history, natural history, commerce, education and the like, are preserved. The dinner was in the grand hall of the main building. The decorations were almo

the best taste. Not the slightest detail was lacking. The American officers grew enthusiastic and when President Pardo finished his address of welcome there was tremendous enthusiasm. The President, after Admiral Thomas had made his reply, arose and walked into a beautiful illuminated garden and there the diners met him socially and found this young man, who represents what Peru has needed

inest thing of the kind they ever attended; the delightful ball at the National Club and the excursion to the famous Inca ruins of Pachacamac. The officers had the eminent arch?ologist

things in the way of entertainment, a bull fight and a trip up the wonderful Oroya railroa

t as brutal as Americans are wont to call such exhibitions, with the exception that no horses were allowed to be disembowelled and killed. Peru up to two years ago had always fought bulls with the horse killing feature eliminated. For that reason many persons regar

o. He went out of business. Another matador, Padilla, was gored in the throat by the fifth bull and for a time it was thought that he was injured mortally. The third matador was scraped up t

was the presence of 3,000 American sailors. That's a different story. You want to know how Jack saw it and what he said and thought and did. You can see bullfights any time

had been provided. They were the fightiest bulls in all Peru; and to make sure that they would do their best they had been teased privately beforehand. The f

ns"; the second, "the heroic Ranger, in honor of Admiral Thomas"; the third, "the Brave Teddy, in honor of Admiral Emory"; the fourth, "the Shufly, in honor of Adm

he municipality, with chairs of red plush for the box and a dais for the President, who was in evening dress. The American Admirals and Captains were in that grand box. The Peruvian band played "The Star Spangled Banner" and the bluejackets stood at attention and then all hands cheered. When the Pre

ing a beautiful iron gray pony and flaunting a red cape over his mount's flanks. There were two of these horsemen and the exhibition they gave of fine riding would have put the best cowboy or rough rider to shame. The man the bull put after was more than eighty years old and the way he twisted his pony here and there and just escape

in his gyrations round the world, now having five stripes on his sleeve. Bill gathered a group of

esn't, to use good grammar. You want to look at 'em from the standp'int o' seamanship an' gunn'ry. There's where you get the real benefit. Why, many a middy c'n learn mor

gracefully from side to side. The bull dashed at him. Bonarillo's foot caught in the corner of the cape, the bull gathered him on his horns and agilely tossed him over one shoulder and

oor. When the bull got 'im under the leg with his horn that shot sure counted. The bull hoisted 'im all right, but the man who was tendin' the fall let 'im go by the run when it came to lowerin' away. There, the wre

ould catch one of the capes in his horns and toss it to the ground and trample on

is lower stu'nsail get carried away. He didn't shorten sail soon enough. The man at the

nderillero would change his course after the bull got under way and by just grazing his horns would plant the darts in his shoulders. The first man got rousing cheers. From his darts

ail awash. He's been whaling all right-we was eighteen months in the Mozambique once, when I was whaling out of New Bedford, and our iron

p to him to do it. He waved his bright red cape, sheltering his sword, repeatedly in front of the bull, stepping aside just in time to escape the horns. The bull was daze

he has and ain't got no better sense than to fire before he's ste

s cloak over the weapon deftly and drew it out. Again there was a failure to kill, but the bull was almost exhausted. He sank to his knees, got up and made o

the cut of his jib that he's in everybody's mess and nobody's watch. He's jack outside the li

unted his cape this way and that; but it was evident that the bull could not be escaped easily. All the fighters became nervous. At last the bull made a thrust t

ye call 'im, tried to give the bull the right o' way, although, bein' close hauled, he should a-held his weather helm on 'im. However, not obeyin' the rules o' the road, he starts to give way, but at the critical moment the bul

three failures at thrusts before the beast sank down and died.

nd put him in a

nd made the bull charge at him. The banderillero rose just as the bull reached him, planted his darts in the animal's shoulders and l

hifted his moorin's jest in time. It was too late to repel boarders, but he got away. Fine seamanship for the man! Poor work by the bull! He ran down the moorin' buoy,

directly in front of the animal and vaulted clear over him, coming down just as the bull hit t

t. No! by-! Hard down! He's going to wear sharp 'round and bring up to windward of him! Say, that feller's

ape and the bull deftly caught him, lifted him in the air, and he fell beside Banjo and rolled under the animal. Down went the horns to gore him. The cape men fluttered all around. Padillo curled himself up in a ball. The bull stepped this

o's father, who was in the ring, tried to explain that it was a bad bull and invited the critics to come and try it themselves. Almost beside himself, Padillo made

ghty disgust saw the bull reel away. Then, catching himself by the throat and staggering forward Padillo ran to the enclosure from which the bull had entered, a distance of about twenty feet, the blood streaming from his wound. He dropped just inside the enclosure and word was passed around that bull

t to do with it himself and can't give it away. Take him out of the hood! Give him an air gun! Let him blow soap bubbles! Don't fire

ere only bruises. As the bull sank down dying fully 200 bluejackets jumped into the ring to follow the example of two who earlier in the fight had leaped in and secured the darts in an animal's neck for momentoes. T

sinkin' and it's yer last gasp don't never fergit to repel boarders. Ye k

ined the d

s fightin' an unarmored cruiser with a short supply o' ammunition. When that gives out the cruiser is bound to go. Some o' the destroyers gets put out, as Bonarillo and Padi

t care much for the sport. Some of them left after the third fight and there was

in the neck-got t

ature may be called sport if its devotees so choose. This fight was no more brutal than shooting at bears from a safe distance and was not half so cruel as wounding a deer and allowing it to drag itself away and die in suffering. The bulls were in pain from t

owed that nerve and rare skill were required. Compared with prize fighting where two sluggers cover themselves with blood, and when one is staggering about from exhaustion the

official party with an engine and a passenger car followed. This Oroya Railroad was started by Henry Meiggs, the defaulting part

oration finished the road to Oroya, on the other side of the Andes, and connections have been made with the road to the famous Cerro de Pasco mines, owned by Mr. Haggin and other American millionaires. Two other b

the climb. There are no less than fifty-seven tunnels. Bridges over chasms and foaming cascades and the River Rimac, whose course the road follows, are numbered by the

and that, beyond two layers of clouds. The sides of the mountains become green. You are now in the land of the ancient Incas. Abandoned ter

e flowers begin to greet you, the heliotrope, solanaceas, spurge and cacti all around. Back and forth you seesaw with massive, towerin

s, and you see scores of llamas bearing their burdens and driven by the native Indians. A hundred cascades, some of them with the beauty of Yosemite's Brida

g ever known. You are now in a belt twelve miles long where no tourist can live, for there the Verrugas fever rages. It is o

which you know you will surmount. You come to a dead stop against the face of a mountain thousands of feet high.

finally you reach the tunnel and emerge on the other side of the Andes with the snow all about you and you throw a few snowballs and start back. Your head begins to feel strange. At 13,000 feet it aches violently. The ache is as near like the m

uld have to stay in the mountains all night. The faces of the railroad officials became grave. To keep that party at the height of 13,000 fee

and in the darkness and snow that train was piloted down those mountain declivities, where the least slip o

cial party was in full possession. They had organized the Society of the Llama, Landslide Chapter. They had a merry night. The official party, sick, worn out, turned in to sleep in car seats. The next morning by walking around landslides and meeti

uvian cruiser Almirante Grau and the fleet thundered out twenty-one guns on each ship in unison. The Grau passed out to sea and orders were signalled from the flagship to get under way. Then the fleet passed by President Pa

om Admiral Evans, and it was good-by to Peru, with the sounds of cheers coming over

Foreign Affairs, began to realize the significance of the fact that in his office the

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