Travels in England in 1782

r, 23r

ienced so many inconveniences as a traveller on foot, that I am at some loss

-of-the way being, who is stared at, pitied, suspected, and shunned by everybody that m

at I intended to venture to walk as far as Oxford, and still farther. He however was s

n the opposite bank of the Thames was Isleworth, a spot that seemed to be distinguished by some elegant gentlemen's country

was on the right road to Oxford. "Yes," said he, "but you want a carriage to carry you thither." When I answere

nder them pleasant. This was the case in the road I now travelled, for when I was tired I sat down in the shade under one of these hedges and read Milton. But this relief was soon rendered disagreeable to me, for those who rode or drove past me, stared at me with astonishment, and made many signif

outside; and when, every now and then, a farmer on horseback met me, he said, and seemingly with an air of pity for me, "'Tis

quite so good. It lay across a common, which was of a considerable exten

the bottom, round the trunk, a bench was placed, on which one may sit down. Beneath the shade of this tree I reposed myself a little, read some of Milton, and made a not

ke me pretty nearly the same time for one German mile. Now it is a pleasing exchange to find that in two hours I can walk eight miles. And now I fancy I was about seventeen miles from London, when I came to an inn, where, for a little wine and water, I was obliged to pay sixpence. An E

ad, I met with a singularly clear rivulet. In this I bathed, and was mu

continued to be the case as far as Slough, which is twenty miles and a half from London, on the way to Oxford, and

long a very pleasant high road, between meadows and gr

ermany are distinguished from the villages-no walls, no gates, no sentries, nor garrisons. No stern examiner comes here to search and inspect us or our baggage; no imperiou

ps in the world. I have before observed that there are in England fewer of these great schools than one m

t to Eton, for I saw the boys in the yard before the college, which was e

ns, over coloured clothes, through which there was an aperture for their arms. They also wore besides

r books in their hands, and were reading; but I was soon obliged to get out of their

beggar. I must do them the justice to own, however, that they suffered me to pay like a gentleman. No doubt this was the first time this pert, bepowdered puppy had ever been called on to wait on a poor devil who entered their place on foot. I was tired, and asked for a bedroom where I might sleep. They showed me in

eople who ought to reflect that they are but the servants of the public, and little likely to recommend themselves to the high by being insolent to the low. They made me, however, pay them two shillings for my dinner and coffee, which

t only the insults of waiters and tavern-keepers, but the hardship of my lot in being obliged to travel in a manner that exposed me to the scorn of a people whom I wished to respect. Below me lay the most beautiful landscapes in the world-all the rich scenery that nature

of antiquity, smiles through its green trees, like the serene countenance of some hoary s

St. George's Church, which, as you come down from the castle, is on your r

n they have got by heart. The surly fellow, who for a shilling conducted me round the church, had nearly, with his chattering, destroyed the finest impress

ueen's palace, and prodigious quantities o

erything of the kind you can figure to yourself. To its own charms, when I saw it, there were added a most pleasing and philosophical solitude, the coolness of an evening breeze, all aided by the soft sounds of music, which, at this distance from the

k struck six, and the workmen w

ll along their sides planted with shrubs; these, being modern and lively, make a pleasing contrast to the fine old mossy walls. On t

n carriage. The people here were politer than I used to think they were in London, for I did not

f consequence going in and out. And here at this inn, contrary to all expectation, I was received by the landlord with great civility, and even kindne

r mutter and grumble as she went along with me. Having put myself a little to rights, I went down into the coffee-room, which is immediately at the entrance of the house, and told the landlord that I thou

e waited the going down of the sun. At a distance I saw a number of people bathing in the Thames. When, after sunset, they were a little dispersed, I drew near the spot I had been directed to; and here, for the first time, I sported in the cool tide of the Thames. The bank was steep, but my landlord had dug some steps that went down into the water, which is extremely convenient for those who cannot swim. Whilst I

he green trees, at a distance two inviting hills which I was to climb in the morning, and around me the green cornfields. Oh! how indescribably beautiful was this evening and this walk! At a distance among the houses I coul

he cross maid who had before shown me to the bed-chamber, and who, dropping a kind of half courtesy, with a suppressed laugh, sneeringly told me I might look out for another lodging, as I could not sleep there, since the room she had by mistake shown me was already engaged. It can hardly be necessary to tell you that I

onversation of some low people, who were drinking and singing songs, in which, as far as I

my chum (probably one of the drinking party below) came stumbling into the room and against my bed. At length, though not without so

terday presented me with so inviting a prospect, and in particular that one of them on the s

ad sometimes a hedge, and sometimes a hog to walk round; but at length I had attained the foot of the so earnestly wished-for hill with the high white house on its summit, when, just as I was go

o steel traps and spring gnus, though probably never intended to annoy such a wan

in the same temper and manner as I had yesterday morning fr

ention. I now write to you in the coffee room, where two Germans are talking together, who certainly little suspect how well I understand them; if I were to make myself known to them, as a German, most probably, even these fellows would