Travels in England in 1782

d, Ju

entures are not foot-travellers exposed, in this land of carria

ifficulty, and not without murmurs, and in which, to complete my misadventures, I was disturbed by a drunken

u, sir!" I had ever heard. At the door stood the cross maid, who also accosted me with, "Pray remember the chambermaid." "Yes, yes," said I, "I shall long remember your most ill-mannered behaviour and shameful incivility;" a

rowling near the palaces of kings, and so I sat me down, philosophically, in the shade of a green hedge, and again read Milton, no friend

w a barber's shop, and so I resolved to get myself both shaved and dressed. For putting my hair a little in order, and

the first very remarkable and alarming adven

here are few roads, even in England, more crowded than this western road, which leads to Bath and Bristol as well as

as he said, some bread, as he had eaten nothing that day. I felt in my pocket, and found that I had no halfpence: no, nor even a sixpence; in short, nothing but shillings. I told him the circumstance, which I hoped would excuse me; on which he said, with an air and manner the drift of which I could not understand, "God bless my soul!" This drew my attention still closer to the huge brawny fist, which gr

dge, which is five-and-twent

far I had already gone, and by assuring me that I was on the right road. For, besides the distance from London, every milestone informs you that to the next place is so many miles, and where there

he Thames, and on the top of it there are two beautiful country seats, all surrounded with meadows and parks. The fi

with green meadows, lying along thick w

r which, on the left, is another prospect of a be

verything most worthy of notice in every mile is marked. These notices I get confirmed or refuted by the people at

ninepence. I fancy they did not take me to be either a great, or a very rich man, for I heard them say, as I pa

emaker's shop, just as at the end o

ich is eleven miles from Maiden

be a milestone, near which I sat down, to enjoy one of the most delightful prospects, the contemplation of which I recommend to everyone who may ever happ

the banks of the Thames, and on which woods, meadows, arable lands, and villages were interspersed in the greatest and most beautiful

f it when, having lost it for a short time, I suddenly and unexpectedly saw it again with all its beautiful

ng coincides and conspires to render them fine, moving pictures. It is impossible to name, or find a spot, on which the eye would not deli

atigues, I now walked a quick pace, both up and down the hills, the fiv

f the Thames, I saw on a hill a fine park and a magnific

self down in the high grass, whilst opposite to me, on the other side, lay the park on the hill. As I

however, indicated that it was too fine a place for me, and so I determined to stop at an inn on the

ide. "Yes, sir, I daresay you may," he replied. But he was mistaken: when I came there, I was accosted with that same harsh salutation, which though, alas, no longer quite new to me, was still unpleasing to my ears; "We have got no beds; you c

Immediately on my entrance into the village, the first house that I saw, lying on my left, was an inn, from which, as usual in England, a lar

ness. "Why, yes, you may;" an answer which, ho

ants. I now, for the first time, found myself in one of those kitchens which I had so often read of in Fi

tition; the rest of the apartment was made use of as a sitting and eating-room. All round on the sides were shelves with pewter dishes and plate

ue respect, these guests, who, no doubt, were supposed to be persons of consequence. The gentlemen alighted, however, only for a moment, and called for nothing but a

tainly did not take me for a person of consequence, th

evening before, show me into the kitchen, but into the parlour, a room that seemed to be allotted for strangers, on the ground-floor. I was also now addressed by the most respe

of my host. Mr. Illing was his name, which struck me the more, perhaps, because it is a very common name in Germany. During my breakfast I read over several parts of the English liturgy, and could not help being struck at the ci

service, which is composed very little of singing, and almost entirely of praying. The psalms of David, how

ldren's births and names, and also his own wedding-day, were very carefully set dow

oking, healthy lads, neat and decently dressed, and with their hair cut short and combed on the forehead, according to the English fashion; their bosoms were open, and

ome distance, I saw several people coming from anothe

d all made him very low bows. He appeared to be rather an elderly man, and

n an Englishman, went with my prayer-book under my arm to church, along with the rest of the co

mple, apt, and becoming than th

ents were written. There surely is much wisdom and propriety in thus plac

whole congregation joining occasionally, though but in a low voice; as for instance, the minister said, "Lord, have mercy upon us!" the clerk and the congregati

ting minister, inasmuch as besides a sermon, the greatest part of the

tion in prayer has something exce

ably been in London, seemed to wish to pass for philosophers,

emed to be preparing for something new and solemn, and I also perceived several musical instruments. The clergyman now

ining together with vocal and instrumental music, in the praise of their Maker. It was the more grateful, as having been performed, not by mercenary m

h at the same time sufficiently grave, and uncommonly interesting. I am a warm admirer of all sacred music, and I cannot but add tha

nter the kingdom of heaven." His language was particularly plain, though forcible; his arguments were no less plain, convincin

thought him also a little distant and reserved, and I did not quit

ngregation, and amused myself with reading the inscriptions on the tombstones in the

ich, to be sure, were ludi

smith, which on account of its sin

and anvil h

oo have lost

tinct, my fo

e spent, my

drove: my w

s closed with the fol

ans were

ew the

re I

nt of a son of the celebrated Dr. Wallis, with

hich qualified him for

end his life her

h some taste, in fine good cloth; and were to be distinguished from the people of the tow

looking at the church, and seemed to be quite ashamed of it, as they said it was only a very miserable church. On

some few psalms; others of the congregation were also present. This was conducted with so much decorum, that I could hard

hree times did I get off, in order to go on farther, and as often returned,

, at length drove me away. I cast many a longing, lingering look on the little church-steeple, and

s from Oxford. However, I seemed resolved to make more than one stage of it to Oxford, that seat of th

neat garden. And my pace in it was varied, like that of one walking in a ga

side of the hill there must needs also be a river. The prospect I promised myself from this hill could not possibly be passed, and so I went out of the road to the left over a bridge across the Thames, and mounted the hill, always keeping the mast in view. When I

le were looking out of the window, and, as I supposed, laughing at me. Even if it were so, it seemed to be but fair, a

ve been contented, like Nebuchadnezzar, to have grazed on it. The moon was at the full; the sun darted its last parting rays through the green hedges, to all which was added, the overpowering fragrance of the meadows, the diversified song of th

heads dressed, leaning out of their windows, or standing before the houses, and this made me conclude that this was too fine a place for me, and so I determined to walk

other, and as regular and uniform as a London street. All the doors se

ign hanging across the street, and the last house to the left

t. "By no means," was the answer, "it was utterly impossible; the whole house was full, and all their be

g to eat. To this they answered that, as I could not stay all night there,

beer, and that they did vouchsafe to give me, for ready money only; but a bit of bread

them, I begged that they would only let me sleep on a bench, and merely give me house-room, adding, that if they would grant me that boon only, I would pay them the same as for a

open air; in this resolution, bouncing from this rude inn, I went to look out for a convenient spot for that purpose in an adjoining field, beneath some friendly tree. Just as I had found a place, which I thought would do, and was going to p

ngs not quite inhuman, and at least one person who still interested himself about me, I therefore stopped, and as he came up to me he said that if I was a

now that I was poor, and much distressed. To confirm this, I told him of the inhumanity with which I had just been treated

e neighbourhood, and now slept there. But that they had refused me a bit of bread he certainly could not justify. As w

added, that I had attended di

verjoyed that, in a dark night, I had met a companion on the road, who was of the same profession as myself. "And I, also," said I, "am a preacher of the gospel, though not of this country." And now I thought it right to give him to understand, that it was not, as I

uded me not a little for my correct pronunciation. He then told me, that some years ago, in the night also, and nearly at the same spot where he found me, he had met

m he roundly blamed. I was not at all disposed to dispute that point with him, and so, professing with great sincerity,

y such discourse, we were now got, almo

, not only in England, but in all Europe. All he lamented, was, that on

uce you into Oxford by one of the finest, the longest, and most beautiful stree

and still through the longest, the finest, and most beautiful street in Europe, which seemed to have no end; nor had I any assurance that I should be

bench and await the morning, as it will be in vain for me, I

then knocked at a door. It was then nearly twelve. They readily let us in; but how great was my astonishment, when, on being shown into a room on the left, I saw a great number of clergymen, all with their gowns and bands on, sitting roun

d got there. Meanwhile, however, I took all the pains in my power to recommend myself to my company, and in the course of conversation, I gave them as good an account as I could of our German universities, neither denying nor concealing that, now and then, we had riots and disturbances. "Oh, we are very un

Bible. I should have liked him better if he had confined himself to punning and playing on his own name, by telling us again and again, that he should still be

Maud fell into a violent passion, and maintained that it was utterly impossible that any such passage should be found in the Bible. Another divine, a Mr. Caern referred us to his absent brother,

d a great family Bible was immediately brought in

k of Judges, 9th chapter, verse xiii, he read, "Sh

evailed, when all at once, the spirit of revelation seemed to come on me, and I said, "Why, gentlemen, you must b

in strong ale; which, as my company seemed to like so much, I was sorry I could not like. It either intoxicated or stupefied me; and I do think it overpowers one much sooner than so much wine would. The conversation now turned on many other different subjects. At last, when morning drew nea

f Oxford. The rest of the company now also dispersed; and as I had once (though in so singular a manner) been introduced into so reputabl

a headache, from the copious and numerous toasts of my jolly and reverend friends,

evening, I had in the gaiety, or perhaps in the vanity of my heart, told the waiter, that he must not think, because I came on foot, that therefore I should

re so cleanly as the English, nor so particular about neat and clean linen. For, one afternoon, my shirt not having been lately changed, as I was walking through a litt

insensible as not to be delighted with the marvellous!) concerning Germany and the King of Prussia. They could not sufficiently admire my courage in determining to travel on foot, although t

which is a character not much more popular than that of a rogue; so that I could now easily account for my reception in Windsor and at Nuneham. But, with all my partiality for this country, it is impossible ev

urther I got from London, the more reasonable and humble I should find the people; everything would be cheaper, and everybody more hospitable. This determined me to go in th

of my headache. Mr. Maud himself came to fetch me, as he had

Oxford; and from the top of which I could see the whole city; which did not, however, appear to me

built with grey stone; which, perhaps, while it is new, looks pretty well, but it h

e miserable; in some streets they are only one story high, and have shingled roofs. To me Oxford seemed to have but a

ore their black gowns over their coloured clothes, and flat square hats, just like those I had seen worn by the Eton scholars. This is the general dress

en, to distinguish them from the citizens, who are called Townsmen; and when you want to ment

ippery, of many of our students. Nor am I less delighted with the better behavi

a cell, at least as much as a place of study. The name of this college is Corpus Christi. He next conducted me to All Souls' College, a very elegant building, in which the chapel is particularly beautiful. Mr. Maud also showed me, over

aste was ever tired of contemplating it; the longer it is looked at the more it is admired. He now also showed me the library of this college, which is provided with a gallery round the top, and the whole is most admirably regulated and arranged. Among other things, I he

eatre, and where the public orations are delivered. This is a circular building with a gallery all round it, which is furnished with benches one above the other, on whic

the best built of all the colleges. Balliol College seems particularly to be dis

ertain standing are obliged in their turn to preach in the church of the university; but many of them, when it comes to

ave lectures in his college on the classics. He also did the duty and officiated as curate, occasionally, in some of the neighbouring villages. Going along the street we met the Eng

had left a numerous family in the greatest distress; and that he was going to the place next day, on purpose to try if he could bring about

or others did not call, either to drink, or to amuse themselves in conversation with

had for many years rendered himself famous as a musician. I was rejoiced to hear one of my countrymen thus pr