Eight Years' Wanderings in Ceylon

ppo-Ceylon Sport-Jungle Fever-Newera Ellia-Energy of Sir E

g allured me toward Ceylon: little did I imagine at

had read in various publications, were sources of attraction against which I strove in vain;

elves: in this case doubtless some months of great enjoyment passed in making plans

mbo. I had spent some time at Mauritius and Bourbon previous to my arrival, and I soon per

seemed to say, "Coffee does not pay." There was a want of spirit in everything. The ill-conditioned guns upon the fort looked as though not intended to defend it; the sentinels looked parboiled; the very natives sauntered rather than walked; the very bullocks crawled alon

l I was introduced to a soi-disant store, where everything was to be purchased from a needle to a crowbar, and from satin to sail-cloth; the useful predominating over the ornamental in all cases. It was all on a poor scale and after several inquiries respe

general style of Ceylon carriages appeared in the shape of a caricature of a hearse: this goes by the name of a palanquin carri

across the flat Galle Face (the race-course), freshened by the sea-breeze as the waves break upon its western side; through the Colpettytopes of cocoanut trees shading the

hat perfumes of spices, and all that our childish imaginations

which I delight not. They are an imposition, and they only serve as an addition to the disappointments of a visitor to Colombo. In fact, the whole place is a series of disappointments. You see a native woman clad in snow-white petticoats, a beautiful tortoiseshell comb fastened in her raven hair; you pass her-you look back-wonderful! she has

I entered the room, as I was most anxious to gain some positive information respecting the game of the island, the bes

e is no sport to be had in Ceylon!"-"at least the race-week

pairingly. "Absurd! every book on Ceylon mentions t

in fact, inventions to give interest to a book. I have an estate in the interior, and I have never se

." Of course I concluded that he had never looked for them; and I began to recover fro

n as the Galle Face planters, who passed their time in cantering about the Colombo race-course and idling in t

the Fifteenth Regiment, then stationed in Ceylon. From him I soon learnt that the character of Ceylo

he verandas were soon strewed with jungle-baskets, boxes, te

ntures were succeeded by so severe an attack of jungle fever that from a naturally robust frame I dwindled to a mere nothing, and very little of my former self remained. The first symp

uffering not only from the fever itself, but from the feeling of an exquis

only viands obtainable for an invalid. There was literally nothing else; it was a land of starvation. But the climate! what can I say to describe the wonderful effects of such a pure and unpolluted air? Simply, that at the e

fited in such a wonderful manner by the climate, without contemp

n in ten or twelve years. The only really good residence was a fine stone building erected by Sir Edward Barnes when governor of Ceylon. To him alone indeed are we indebted for the existence of a sanitarium. It was he who opened the road, not only to Newera Ellia, but for thi

came neglected. His successor took no interest in the plans of his predecessor; and from that period, each successive governor being influ

carry much weight, as he does not move at all, with the exception of an occasional drive from Colombo to Kandy. His knowledge of the colony and of its wants or resources must therefore, from his personal exper

sire to test its real capabilities and to work great improvements in the colony. Unfortunately, his term as governor was shorter

that its importance must be appreciated when the knowledge of its climate was more widely extended that I looked forward to its becoming at some fu

the climate could not be surpassed for salubrity. There was a carriage road from Colombo, one hundred and fifteen miles, and from Kandy, forty-seven miles; the last th

the barracks and officers' quarters, the resthouse and the baza

at the foot of the mountains. Upon these spots of elevated ground most of the dwellings were situated, commanding a view of the plain, with the river winding through its centre. The mountains we

Newera Ellia plain with slight variations, comprising a

ion when gazing over the wide extent of undulating forest and plain! How often I have thought of the thousands of starving wretches at home, who here might earn a comfortable livelihood! and I

on take the place of the rank pasturage, and supplies be produced to make Ceylon independent of other countries? Why should not schools be established, a comfortable hotel be erec

months' tour in Ceylon being completed, I returned to England delighted with what I had seen of Ceylon in general, but, above all, with my short v