Eight Years' Wanderings in Ceylon

d-A Gallant Stag-"Bran" and "Lucifer"-"Phrenzy's" Death-Buck at Bay-The Cave Hunting-box-"Madcap's" Dive-Elk Soup-Former Inundation-"Bluebeard" leads off-"Hecate's" C

est monsoon brings wind and mist

the steam from a huge cauldron, and invade the Newera Elli

emains as stunted brushwood, and the opaque screen of driving fog and drizzling rain is

a genial climate, as though he passed through a curtain. The wet weather terminates at a mountain called Hackgalla (or more properly Yakkadagalla, or iron rock). This bold rock, whose summit is about six thousand five hundred feet above the sea, breasts the driving wind and seems to command the storm. The rushing clouds halt in their mad

orbid the advance of the monsoon. All before is bright and cloudless; the lovely panorama of the Ouva country spreads before the eye for ma

top of Hackgalla struggles with the storms, and ever victorious the cliffs smile in the sunshine on the eastern

es the cloud and rain into a thin veil of mist, the panorama seen through the gauze-like atmosphere has the exact appearance of a dissolving view; the depth, the height and distance of every object, all great in reality,

on the left by the almost precipitous descent of nearly one thousand feet, the sides of which are clothed by alternate forest and

sty atmosphere, which the south-west monsoon drives upon the western side of the mountains. Thus, ther

blue sky. So abrupt is the line and the cessation of the rain

illed air of Newera Ellia pours down into the sun-warmed atmosphere below, and creates a gale that sweeps across the grassy hilltops

m the middle of June to the middle of July. This is the commencement of the south-west monsoon, which usually sets in with great violence. The remaining portion of what is c

rtain destroyers of scent; hence, hunting at Newera Ellia is out of the question during such weather. The hound

viously described, at the base of the mountains are cultivated rice-lands, generally known as paddy-fields, where numerous villages have sprung up from the facility with which a supply of water is obtained from the wild mountains above them. I have so frequently given the people elk and hogs which I have killed on the heights above their paddy-fields that they are always on the alert at the sound of the bugle, and a few blasts from the mountain-top immediately creates a race up from the villages, some two or three thousand feet below. Li

of many hours, I have at length killed him on the grassy heights above the villages, I always take a delight in w

up the ravines and gullies and breasting the sharp pitches, until at last the first man arrives t

, and I insist upon a fair division between the old and young, always giving an extra piece to a man who happens to know a little English

Living generally upon boiled rice and curry composed of pumpkins and sweet pot

send down word to the village people of my intention, but upon these occasions I never give them the elk. I always insist upon their bringing rice, etc

hing for lost hounds, he gets a share of meat. The others bring rice, coffee, fowls, eggs, plantains, vegetables, etc., which I take at ridiculous rates-a bushel of rice for a full-grown elk, etc., the latter

Europeans at Newera Ellia until I discovered i

r on its way to the low country, through forest-covered hills and perpendicular cliffs, until it reaches the precipitous patina mountains, when, in a succession of large cataracts, it reaches the paddy-fields in the first village of Peréwellé (guava paddy-field). Thus the river in the gor

jungle, both he and the hounds were lost, as no one could follow through

ck crossed the road, and we seldom saw the hounds again until late that night or on the following da

h reached the paddy-fields in the low country, which were watered by Fort M'Donald river, and I looked up to the lofty range formed by the Hog's Back hill, now about three thousand feet above me. Thus I had gained the opposite side of the Hog's Back, and, after a stiff pull lip the mountain, I returned home by a good path which I had formerly discovered along the course of the river through the forest to Newera Ellia, via Rest-and-be-Thankful Valley and the Barrack Plains, having made a circuit of about twenty-five miles and b

osite side on a high patina peak which commanded the whole country. Thus was the whole country opened up by this single path, and should an elk play his old trick

on the other side of the Hog's Back, as the weather was very bad at Newe

y, Thirty-seventh Regiment, who was then commandant of Newera Ellia, and his brother on a visit. It was not more than an hour and a half's good walking from my house to the high pat

d to protect it from the wind, which it did effectually, as well as the kennel, which was

usand feet, the river boiled through the rocky gorge until it reached the village of Peréwellé at the base of the line of mountains, whose cultivated paddy-fields looked no larger than the squares upon a chess-board. On the opposite side of the river rose

d with occasional level platforms of waving grass, descend to the river's bed. These patina mountains are crowned by extensive forests, and narrow belts of jungle descend from the summit to the base, clothing the numerous ravines which furrow the m

river, in a succession of foaming cataracts, all of which, however grand individually, are completely eclipsed by

ed, being choked by enormous fragments of rock, amidst which the irr

r mysterious depth, and from which there is no visible means of exit. These dark and dangerous pools are walled in by hoary-looking rocks, beneath which the pent-up water dives and boils in subterranean caverns, until it at length escapes through secret channels, and reappears on the opposite side of its prison-walls; lashing itself into foam in its mad frenzy, it forms rapids of giddy velocity through the rocky bounds; now flying through a narrowed gorge, and leaping, striving a

lk were not followed up in this locality, the poor beast, being hard pressed by the hounds, might have come to bay

of refuge when hunted; thus he makes off down the mountain for the river, in which he stands at bay. Now the mountain itself is steep enough, but within a short distance of the bott

most arduous country that can be imagin

boots are laced! This is the troublesome part of dressing before broad daylight, and nevertheless laced ankle-boots must be worn as a protection aga

morning and a fine dew on the patinas; rat

mash! there goes the jungle kennel! the pack squeezing out of i

rn brings the pack close together as we enter the forest on the very summit of the ridge. Thus the start was

n them lower down for shelter; accordingly I struck an oblique direction downward, and I was not long before I discovered a fresh track

e buck, so fresh was the scent; and I waited quietly for "the find." The greyhounds stood ro

way mute and have found on the other side the ridge, for they were

very commencement of the hunt. Nevertheless there was a sudden bay within a few hundred yards of me, and the elk had alre

nd the buck had evidently gone off straight away, as I heard the pack in

e spill would be the consequence. However, I soon got out on the patina about one-third of the way down the mountain, and here I met one of the natives, who was well posted. Not a sound of the pack was now to be heard; but this man declared most positiv

igh up on my left. It was only the halt of an instant, for the next moment I heard the same hound's voice evidently running on the other side

e high wind had prevented me from hearing them, and away they came from the jungle, rushing down upon the scent like a flock of birds. I stepped of the track to let them pass as they swept by, and "For-r-r-a-r-d

as; running when we could, scrambling, and sliding on our hams when it was too steep to stand, and keepin

e with me; but not a hound had a chance with him, and he repeatedly charged in among them, and regularly drove them before him, sending any single hound spinning whenever he came within his range. But the pack quickly reunited, and alway

n upon an elk. His mane was bristled up, his nostril was distended, and, turning from the pack, he surveyed me, as though taking the measure of his new antagonist. Not seeming satisfied, he deliberately turned, and, descending from the level space, he carefully, picked his way. Down narrow elk-runs along the steep precip

nds that the voices of the hounds were perfectly inaudible, although within a

eat, as the wall of rock was behind him, with the small step-like path

and springing from rock to rock along the verge of the cataract, he gained the opposite side. Here he had mistaken his landing-place, as a

nt both he and they rolled over in a confused mass into the boiling torrent. One more instant and they reappeared, the buck gallantly stemming the current, which his great leng

t words of encouragement to them, although the voice of a cannon could not have been heard among the roar of waters. They had nearly gained the bank oil the very ver-e of the fall, when a few tufts of lemon grass concealed them from my view. I thought they were over, and I could not restrain a cry of despair

thought every hound would have been lost. For an instant they looked like a flock of ducks, but a few moments afterward they were scattered in the boiling eddies, hurrying with fatal speed toward the

nds at his heels in single file. "Valiant," "Tiptoe" and "Ploughboy" were close to him, and I counted the other hounds in the line, fully expecting to miss half of them. To my surprise and delight, only one was absent; this was poor "Phrenzy." The others had all managed to save themselves. I now crossed the river by leaping from rock to roc

unds. However, I determined to crawl along his track, which was plainly discernible, the high grass being br

g the rocks that we could not see a foot before us, and we knew not whether the next step would land us on firm footing, or deposit us some hundred feet below. Clutching fast to the long grass, therefore

hundred yards ahead, on a lower shelf of the mountain, and the whole pack at bay. This platform was the top of a cliff which overhung the deep gorge; the river flowing in the bottom after its great fall, and both the elk and hounds appeared to be in "a fix." The descent h

e perpendicular, as the top of the rock overhung, after which the side of the cliff was marked by great fissures and natural steps formed by the detachment from time to time of masses of rock which had

e pack, and coming almost within reach of the Tamby's spear. It was a difficult thing to know how to kill him. I was afraid to go in at him, lest in his struggles he should drag the hounds over the precipice,

was too quick with his horns and fore feet. He made a dash into the pack, and then regained his position close to the verge of the precipice. He then turned his back to the hounds, looked down over the edge, and, to the astonishment of

h the buck had leapt. Here we of course found him lying dead, as he had broken most of his bones. He was in very fine condition; but it was i

ellé, and then to reascend the opposite mountain of three thousand feet; but even th

uck the tent, and after breakfast we took up our quarters in a cavern worthy of Robin Hood. This had been formed by a couple of large rocks the size of a moderate house, which had been deta

ed! It had evidently been dragged along the water-course, as the trail was distinct in the high grass, and upon following it up, away went two fine leopards, bounding along the rocks to their adja

n of marrow than the elk, as the bones are more hollow than those of most quadrupeds. This cylindrical formation enables them to sustain the severe shocks in descending rough mountains at full speed. It is perfectly wonderful to see an animal of near six hundred pounds' weight bounding down a hillside, over rock

s animal in stemming rapids and climbing dangerous precipices; but even an elk is not proof a

ly followed I thought she was seized. However, the whole pack shortly returned, evidently thrown out, and I began to abuse them pretty roundly, thinking that they had lost their game in

lification of the danger

pectation, old "Madcap" was jostled by one of the greyhounds, and slipped into a

on of the under-current was at once shown by poor old "Madcap" being swept up against thi

and yet I could not save her. However, I d

e down on the top of the rock, I took his hand while I clung to the face

ufficient strength to draw her out. I could only support her head above the water, which I could distinctly feel was drawing

up she popped all right, not being more than half drowned by her subterranean excursion, and we soon helped her safe ashore. Fortunat

oo dangerous for hunting. I therefore ordered the village people to assemble on the fo

ections. The flesh was then cut up small for the pack, the marrowbones reserved for "master," and the soup was then boiled until it had evaporated to the quantity required. A few green chilies, onions in slices fried, and a little lime-juice, salt, black pepper and mushroom ketchup, and-in fact, there is no rise thinking of it, as the soup is not to be had again. The fire

untain on the opposite side of the river. This being perpendicular, I was obliged to make a great circuit by keeping the old Newera Ellia path along the river for two or three miles, and then

ite the cave, looking down upon my hunting-ground of the day

d steep patina mountains, which are about six or seven hundred feet above the basin or the bottom of the amphitheatre. The tops of the mountains are covered with good open forest, and ribbon-like strips descend to the base. Now the base forms an uneven shelf of great extent, about two thousand feet abo

cends to the low country. During the period of heavy rains a landslip has evidently choked up this passage, and the exit of the water being thus obstructed, the whole area of the valley has become a lake. The accumulated water has suddenly burst through the obstruction and swept everything before it. The elk are very fond

locality there is a boundless and u

the mountains that rendered ears of little use, as a hound's voice was annihilated in such a hurricane Th

being pitched at the bottom of the basin, we commenced a pull up th

ently to a certainty, though it's as cold as charity. That elk was feeding here early in the night; the scent is four hours old if a minute. There they go into the jungle

e immense prospect before us. The whole pack were lying around us except the three m

tty run he must be having, very likely off to Matturatta plains; if so, good-by

ve flat of table-land. This surface was a fine sward, on the same level with the point upon which we sat, but separated from us by two small

he two ravines, within three hundred yards of us. Here the strong gale gave him our scent. It was a beautiful sight to

ance, and I saw him leading across the table-land as true as gold upon the t

ack would also catch the sound, and by hurrying toward it, would head the elk

behind, which was rapidly closing up, and, as though doubting his own power of scent, he gave preference t

run at full speed to the jungle to endeavor to meet the elk, as I knew the hounds would then follow him. This they did; and

wing hounds rapidly approached as they steadily persevered in the long chase; when sud

the patinas near the spot where the pack had entered, and away he went over the grassy hills at a pace which soon left

uck was above them and had a start of about two hundred yards, in such an uph

losing a moment's view of her game, she sped up the steep mountain side and was s

ot last up hill, and round the elk double

pitiless dash in her style of going that boded little mercy to her game. What alarmed me, however, was the direction that the buck was taking

ared lest their own impetus should carry both elk an

ey neared the precipice, and a few mor

bound of the greyhound: the bitch was at his

is ear. Fortunately she lost her hold as the ear split. This check saved her. I shouted, "

creasing momentum he spun round and round in his descent, until the centrifugal motion drew ou

led up on the very brink of the pr

passion for the poor brute who had met so terrible a fate. It did not seem fair; and yet I would not have missed such a sight for anything. Nothing can be conceived more terribly grand than the rush of so lar

f the precipice; and the ground being covered with detached fragments of rock, he had broken most of his bones, beside bursting his pau

ulled down by the greyhounds; but the wind was so very high that it destroyed the pleasure of hunting. I the

to the Elephant Plains, and from thence returned home after t

to his length of leg. He stands about twenty-six inches high at the shoulder and weighs (live weight) from forty-five to fifty pounds. He has two sharp tusks in the upper jaw, projecting ab

ch antler, formed by a fork-like termination. This kind of deer has no brow antler. They are very fast,

ives a most uninteresting run; never going straight away like a deer, but doubling about over fifty acres of ground like a hare, until

the same characteristic as the red deer in the heavy proportion of body to its small length of limb. The skin is a mottled ash-gr

he difference in the teeth. The mouse deer lives principally upon berries and fruits; but I have seldom found much herbage upon examin

ent that they are disturbed by dogs, and they are usually

orns, viz., three upon each. These are, the brow-antler point, and the two points which form the extre

ut of proportion to the great size of the animal. A very large Scotch red deer in not more than two-t

uld not pick out more than a dozen of really handsome

aring which is greatly missed when a fine animal breaks cover with only a puny pair of horns. There is as

spotted stag is the perfection of elegance, color, strength, courage and speed. He has a proud and thorough-bred way of carrying his head, which is set upon his neck with a peculiar grace. Nothing can surpass t

t four hundred pounds when cleaned, or five hundred and fifty pounds live weight. I happened one day to kill an average-sized buck, though with very small horns, close to the road; so, having cleaned him, I sent a cart for his carcase on my return home. This elk I weighed whole, minus his inside, and

ven every other beast to the shelter of the densest jungles, the sultan of the herd and his lovely mates are sometimes contented with the shade of an isolated tree or the simple border of the jungle, where they drowsily pass the day, flipping their long ears in listles

nizens of the hottest countries, are not to be expected to exist in their natural state in so low a temperature; but it is ext

the Zoological Gardens as the "sloth bear;" an ill-bred-lo

he natives than any other animal, as he is in the constant habit of attacking people without the slightest provocation. His mode of attack increases the danger, as there is a great want of fair play in his method of fighting. Lying in wait, either behind a rock or in a thick bush, he makes a sudden sprin

ear off a man's face like a mask, lea

hetah, the elk, the red deer, the mouse deer, the hare, the otter, the jackal, the civet cat, the mongoose and two others (varieties of the spe

etter the pup the more he will persevere in hunting everything that he can possibly find; and with such a variety of animals, some

of the old hounds in joining or desp

inding hound; thus he fears considerable disappointment if upon his arrival he finds the scent of a monkey or a cat instead of his legitimate game. An old h

catch the sound of old "Bluebeard's" voice, and see the dash with which they rush through the jungle to join him. They kn

try. A hound when once in the jungle is his own master. He obeys the sound of the halloo or t

no matter how the whole pack may individually hunt, the "find" will be achieved by one of the first-rate hounds, and gradually they give up hunting and take to listening for the opening note

unting it is scarcely possible to assist the hounds; a dozen different animals, or even a disturbed elk, may cross the scent in parts of the jungle where the cry of the hounds is even out of hearing. Again, an elk has a constant habit of running or swimming down a river, his instinct prompting him to drown his own scent, and

and they are thrown out on the barren bank on the other side. Back they come again, wind about the

oes along the edge of the river casting for a scent. Now mark old "Bluebeard," swimming steadily down the stream; he knows the habits of his game as wel

ntsman be up to assist his hounds, but nine times out of ten th

asily effected by taking them out for exercise upon a road coupled to old hounds. A good walk every morning, accompanied

fection" is a difficult feeling to instill into a foxhound, and can only be partially attained by the exercise of cupboard love; thus a few pieces of dry l

ke man;" and this is strongly displayed in the hound. The very best seizer would be spoiled if his master were a leetle slow in going in

ge of hunting, in the same manner that they acknowledge the superiority of a particular hound. This induces them to obey beyond any me

at they will stick to their game till night. I have frequently killed elk at two or three o'clock in the afternoon that have been found at six in the morning. Sometimes I have killed them even later than this when, after wandering fruitlessly the whole day in every direction but the right one, my ears have at length been gladdened by the distant sound of the bay. The particular moment when hope and certainty combined reward the day's toil is the very quintessence of joy and delight. Nothing in the shape of enjoyment can come near it. What

fine fun for a total stranger rather inclined to corpulency, who has dauntlessly persevered in keeping up with the huntsman, although at some personal inconvenience. There is a limit to all endurance, and he is obliged to stop, quite blown, completely

his head with the end of a dead stick in his stomach just as he got to the bottom; he forgets every other part of his route, simply having an idea that he went down a great many ravines and up a number of hills, and turned to the right and left several times. He gives it up; he finds hims

eas there are certainly-indeed, a fair sprinkling of fleas; but they are not troublesome, except in houses which are unoccupied during a portion of the year. This is a great peculiarity of a Ceylon flea-he is a great colonist; and should a house be untenanted for a few months, so sure will it swarm with these "settlers." Even a grass hut built for a night's bivouac in the jungle, without a flea in the neighborhood, will literally swarm with them if deserted for a couple of months. Fleas

eing about equivalent to a wasp's sting. I have been bitten myself, and I h

that time he was one of Lieutenant de Montenach's servants, an

est intention of impugning his veracity) Phinn's ideality was largely developed. He was never by himself for five minutes in the jun

man, spluttering the food out of his mouth, and shouting and skipping about the room with both hands clutched tightly to the hinder part of his inexpressibles. "Oh, by Jasus! help,

ound the centipede about four inches long which had bitten h

ive Moorman, who was m