Wanderings through unknown Austria

a gallan

ro

" We started at 7.30 in the morning, and this involved getting up at six. There is nothing I object to more than early rising. Since my e

ed and ear

ealthy, wealt

t by heart. I do not believe in it, though; I infinitel

er go supper

in the mor

f-we were late) starting without breakfast. We rose to the occasion. Rather than keep the rest of the par

ns of vines, the fresh and luxuriant green of the plain contrasting strangely with the gray barrenness of the neighbouring hills, through the little old-fashioned town of Monfalcone. It is quite an Italian town, with its big piazza, graceful church tower, and balconied houses-closely shuttered, of course; the inhabitants seem to have a horror of fresh air. After Monfalcone the scenery too becomes quite Italian, though we are still in Austria. The plain continues fresh and green as ever, but t

olls. Our host did not eat anything. He said he couldn't eat when he had rise

not require much seeking, firstly, because it rested on the placid waters of the canal close to our "hotel," and, secondly, as it guided us to its w

peasants at work, with the big, gentle, sleepy-looking oxen drawing the waggons. One soon leaves the canal behind, and comes out into numberless shallow lagoons of salt water, with dreary sandbanks, and lonely-looking posts to mark the deeper channels. There are a few dismal huts on some of the sandbanks, and in one place a church tower stands alone in its glory-t

BOAT (

more speculative; if they would build a good hotel and open a railway line, etc., it might become a flourishing place. At present there is no accommodation for visitors, so no visitors go there. We bathed, of course, all of us, with the exception of the two learned men, who had different theories with regard to bath

-THE

racious appetites of the "Seal" and the "Fat Boy," we had no time to see the town thoroughly, but we managed to make a hurried inspection of the church before our steamer left. It is a fine old building, with two rows of marble columns in the interior, the capitals

URCH A

, and rather irritable. On reaching it we proceeded to the hotel, and refres

re erected as watch-towers. Aquileia was a very extensive and important place under the Romans, and possessed a population of half a million. With the decline of the Roman power the glory of Aquileia departed. The town withstood many

the many statues are particularly fine, one of a Venus or a nymph, very much mutilated, and an almost perfect one of the family of Tiberius. The rest of the st

still left in the soil. Probably Aquileia could rival Pompeii or Herculaneum-in any case, it was a much more important place. In the last year or two some Aus

nzo and Timavo. Old chronicles say that wild boar, wild goats, and pheasants were the principal objects of pursuit, but unfortunately there is no record of the "bags." When one sees the general barrenness of

a most curious monument in the church-a sort of little temple of white marble surrounded by marble columns that support a

l profession were brave warriors. The Lords of Duino were generally their firm allies. We read that when Bertram, Patriarch of Aquileia, defeated the troops of Goritz at Osoppo (1340) he himself celebrated mass in his camp in full armour, it being Christmas Eve. Hence arose the custom,

Mark, written in the fifth century, had been taken away long before, and is to be seen now in the neighbouring town of Cividale, where the Patriarchs had in later time transported their seat. Some old Byzantine fresco-paintings of saints are at the east end, very much faded, but still discernible. On the roof above them are some hideous modern abo

turned to the hotel with the ladies, clamouring for ices. I thi

umble peasants' houses rising gray and desolate against the golden glory of the setting sun. No trace of gorgeous temples, of thronged

s, surrounded by his fantastic knights, h

iarchs has disappeared, their armies gone, their treasure disp

in all the glory of white marble limbs-a new world, and yet so old! Shaking off the sleep of centuries from their solemn eyes, the gods and t

TO CAST

ger, and the blue mists veiled the distant hills. But our peaceful enjoyment was spoiled by the gloominess of "our host," who, having met a bicycle on the way, failed absolutely and entirely to recover his equanimity. He talked to us with great eloquence on t