Book of Etiquette, Volume 2

RST IM

of speech. Centuries of experience have shown that by means of these one may almost wit

bright checked suit and the yellow tie, the man in the shabby suit may be a famous writer, the girl in the untidy blouse may be an artist of great pr

hich it represents so that people will say, not, "What an attractive gown!" but "What a lo

y is hers. Her clothes should belong to her rather than merely to the era in which she happens to be living. This means that they mu

er of people is expres

ks I know

n better loo

ce I don'

am beh

s out in fron

d pity for them, if no other feeling, should inspire one to be at all t

'S

he may wear the regular cutaway coat and the usual accessories that go along with it. It is always best to follow the local customs with regard to dress and it is ab

escribed as it is for any formal entertainment which takes place after six o'clock. To informal g

of these is a reliable haberdasher. It is his business to keep up with the details of dress and since these are constantly

e should also, and if he is in doubt as to whether she is to wear evening dress or a simpler costume

N'S

its. But with laundry bills at prohibitive prices, a substitute must be found for them for the girl in moderate circumstances. For this reason it is

treet. Similarly, in the afternoon unless the occasion is an elaborate one, when she may wear an elegant receptio

t very elaborate ones. For these a woman's gown should be décolleté and should be of beautiful material. The color and de

. The manner in which it is arranged should depend upon the kind of costume she

ore details are given as to the proper kind of dress to wear. Remembe

ORY OF

the desire for clothes, and clothes brought thoughts of higher ideals, wider desires than those merely of the animal. Out of the desire to cover the body grew the love of d

first thought of shame has stirred, and she makes for herself a covering-a dress. She makes it of the skin of a newly killed animal. It is raw and ugly and unpleasant. But the owne

rs to the jaunty little hat on her head, she is-perfect. Her gown seems to express in every line the story of her own personality. The color-scheme might well have been invented by Mother Natu

ming endlessly along the wide avenue, men and women, defying in the expression of their own taste and individuality, the decrees of fashion; interpretin

WN OF

d tiny feet they had to have although it meant months of torture to the young child. It commanded the monstrous ruff of the Elizabethan period, and decreed dignified wigs for the gentlemen of the Colonia

tume for both men and women distinguished each tribe. There was nothing different in the way the skins were thrown over the body, no embellishments to render any one costume

l more "fashionable" deforming themselves with most weird series of cicatrices on their bodies and faces. In New Guinea we find women who do not indulge in clothing at all, ashamed to appear in public without bracelets on their arms and legs, and ornaments on their heads. So intense did this love of ornament grow among women, that they began to cove

ough to meet with their own requirements, to satisfy their own undeveloped tastes. One tribe copied what another wore, changing it only slightly according to whim. We find that man soon realized that the accum

it has remained undis

HIONS O

hat the love of beauty is inherent in all women-just as the pride of personal appearance is inherent in all men. It is a heritage bro

ion, on the constant whims and vagaries of Style. Each season brings forth striking new dress innovations

for evening functions. There are certain costumes for the wedding, and others for the garden fête. The gentleman wears one suit to business, and a

It is because men and women, and especially women, are so eager to adopt any new style creation offered to them by the vast army of "authorities," so impatient always for something new, new-

rments are faultless. There is something romantic in the gown and veil of the bride, just as there is something delightfully refreshing in the sight

NY IN

the delicate pansy, with its soft blend of greens and yellows and purples. Think of the exquisite china-aster with its pale colorings of violet and pink. And the man

es, pinks indulged in where navy blue or dark brown would be more appropriate, elaborate motifs and decorations where simplicity should have been.

tiously every new fad, but to adjust the prevailing style to conform with the lines of their individual faces and forms. To illustrate: it is ridiculous for the very slim young lady to wear a severe straight-line frock simply because it is the fashion, but she can adapt

, you have little peculiarities of line and coloring that require special consideration. To select lines that harmonize with the lines of your body, colors that

ANCE O

n its cool daintiness, youthful simplicity. White may always be worn-by young and old,

rilliant. And here again, whether she dictates pale pink or vivid s

ble effects, as startlingly beautiful as the somber afterglow of the setting sun, can be obtain

in the sallowness of her cheeks. The person with "coal black" hair must avoid blues, light and dark; the colors that most become her are crimson, orange, dark red. Pink is the ideal color for the blo

f the entire costume. They determine whether the dress shall be frivolous or demure, gay or somber, vivid or soft. The color of the hair, also, is important in deciding the color of

r. A wrong color has the alarming propensity of marring the beauty of the most charming gown-even as the use of the right color enhances the beauty of the most si

M OF PER

ith a much-beruffled and ornamented frock, that she is vain. We know by glancing at a young man who wears an orange tie, checked hat, and twirls a bamboo

are frivolous, our clothes show it. If we have a sense of the artistic, our clothes show it.

issing; and that something is personality. The same is true of the rather studious young girl who is also shy and retiring. In her somber clothes, she is perfectly content in the gloomy solitude of her study; but dressed in a filmy little frock of lace and net, with her hair youthfully marcelled, with buckled s

hington in a conspicuously checked suit? Unmistakable qualities of character are discernible in the clothes w

When you want to be thoughtful and solemn, wear heavy clothes and large, drooping hats. Adapt your

sired mood of seriousness. For less sedate, though not less important, occasions, brighter attire makes one forget the cares of business and assume an air of

a person begins to dress 'loud' his manners a

VERSUS G

t of modern dress. To see a beautiful young woman in gaudy clothes is as disa

ecoration, than an elaborate gown with rows and rows of imitation gold lace! And yet, we find that many of our most fashionable

rmony, contrast and personality should be carefully considered. Colors must blend; there must be no weird contrasts that jar badly on one's artistic sense. G

aste finds expression in gowns that are simple, inconspicuous, yet well-cut and artistic; in suits that are quiet, conse

E THE GREATE

e is the greatest vulgarity." How true it is! How many of us adjust the expenditure for clothes i

necessary. The extravagant woman fills her wardrobe with numerous dresses, blouses and hats for which she has no real use. But how much more

every occasion, a different suit for every day of the week. As a matter of fact, this is an entirely mistaken idea. F

nvariably finds that she has "nothing to wear," while the woman of taste, w

IATENESS

for the dance, is entirely incorrect for street wear. What one wears on a shopping trip may not be worn to the theater. The gentleman must not we

y with semi-evening or evening dress-never with street clothes. Pumps with fur coats are strikingly inconsistent, as are straw hats with winter attire, or velvet hats with

ll-pleated skirt and loose middy appear beneath her elaborate wrap. We see her at a tea, enthusiastic over the glories of the eighteenth hole, and interpreting the glances of her friends at her sport sh

ng a comparison, we might say that they are no more inappropriate than the eccentricities of dress a

ENTRIC

ief that they are expressing personalit

d women who enjoy attracting attention, who delight in being considered "different." In such people we are not interested

on a strip of dried skin from one of their sacred animals. She gloried in the possession of

in most cases unbecoming garments, is merely obeying the same vain and selfis

it in correct, conservative and conventional clothes, ce

T IN C

r so it bores us. With beauty of dress there must also be a grace and ease of manner without wh

ght shoe! Think of sitting gravely and patiently through a long concert while one's too-tight collar

that they are well-dressed, and with the knowledge comes a dignity that adds charm to the beauty of their costumes. Thus they are able to enter whole-heartedly i

ary activities of every-day life, and one that was also simple but a bit more decorative, for the ceremonial occasions. Per

hould be rigidly avoided. You are truly a "slave of fashion" if you allow yourself to suffer hours of torture merely to present an appea

IS NOT

rs. Some of us are inclined to be stout. Some of us are short, and others very slender. We all

power of magnifying imperfections. The too-stout woman can wear dresses that will make her look twice as stout. The short man can wear suits that make him look

erblouses and bows. Soft, filmy materials that fall in graceful lines are especially becoming, as are checked and flowered materials. Stripes in all forms must be strictly avoided as they accentuate the slendernes

thout waistlines work wonders for the stout woman-just as the coat without a belt improves the appearance of the stout man. Such edicts of fashion as the tight sleeve, round neck or short waist are not for the stout woman. The ideal dress for her is one long and sweeping in line. The length of the skirt, as well as details of style, m

D SHORT

o must be careful of what he or she wears. The very tall woman should avoid stripes as they add to her height. She must not wear high collars, nor severely tailored blouses. The tailored suit, however, becomes her. She should avoid br

isted effects. Bright colors are not for her-except a touch here and there. Short skirts are more becoming than long ones, just as stripes are more becoming than checks. Two

imid or awkward. It needs only the correct dress and the proper spirit of pride and dignity to accentuate your personal charms. Remember that it is personality that

L-DRESS

man. A pretty sentiment, but not quite complete. We would have it rea

llows of creamy white lace, we feel instinctively that she is well-dressed. And yet, we cannot call her fashionable. It cannot be elaborate attire, for we know that the stylish young miss in her sev

-and yet you yourself know not why. You know that she is well-dressed, but when she is gone you cannot rememb

y so. But if she is truly well-dressed, her clothes are of the best materials and the workmanship is faultless

r self-conscious, never uncomfortable. She never is the center of attraction because she is never conspicuous. She is simply yet smart

he woman who insists that she does not care at all about clothes, that she does not care how she is dressed. But she is the exception, and we are interested in the rule. Woman does herse

LAVE TO

art and harmony, she will not be the slave of a stupid mode. She will not worship at the pedestal of fashion, trembling as each new decree is

oman who discards an otherwise attractive and fashionable gown merely because the sleeves are slightly puffed instead of severely tight-fitting as the whim of Fashion demands.

ng to leave to your children to remember you by. If you keep this in mind, you will never wear commonplace clothes nor clothes that are extreme in style, but you will dress with simplicity and taste, be

LL-DRE

he social and business worlds. The effects of dress are far-re

y pleasant morning reading, he prepared to leave. It was then that he was attracted to a rather dowdy individual who was remonstrating ind

members. But no one had questioned him, as he looked the part of a member. Yet, the man who really did belong, had to submit

at he is not making as rapid a stride forward as his abilities warrant. Incorrect dress is a serious handicap. In the social world, it is not only a

ellent workmanship. Do not be content with an ordinary suit, but be sure that each one you wear imparts that poise and dignity which is so essential to the true gentleman. Your wardrobe need not

rom the proverbs of the Dutch, that "A sm

ARM OF

age has a charm all its own-a silver charm that ma

hat artists have long loved to paint. There is something strangely irresistible in old age, especially when old age is beautiful. And to make it be

e's son wears at college. The sound of rustling silk and sweeping petticoats is one of the charms of the elderly lady-but an abbreviated skirt would certainly make her appear ridiculous. Similarly, the

ly dressed; and there are no words beautiful enough to describe the enchantment of the silver-haired old lady in delicate colors and fabrics,

LDERL

the elderly woman are just as important as those of the younger. We shall describe here several kinds of costumes that i

back to the days of the Quakers, the lace fichu is most attractive. Then there is always the shadowy charm of black velvet and black lace. For the more formal occasions when the elderly woman wishes to be

ere are several light colors that are appropriate, chief among them, gray and lavendar. Materials worn by the woman-who-is-older are

AND OVER

tation and over-dressing. Both rob old age of its char

g anniversaries wearing "fashionable" dresses that are in absolute discord with their years and personality. Short skirts and straigh

r. But the woman who is growing old and insists upon keeping herself young by wearing inappropriate and inharmonious clothes, is merely making a farce of herself. There can be nothing more ridiculous than

s simplicity enhances the beauty of youth, so does simplicity enhance the charm of old-age. Ostentation of

DER GE

era. And one can easily retain the presentable dignity of earlier days by w

tive. He should wear white linen, wing collar and small black tie. This costume is also appropr

costume consisting of black and white patterned homespun jacket, slacks and waistcoat of white flannel, whi

TO TH

it comes to deciding what to take along we give here below a few

of Havana or Miami. Even though the snows may have tied up traffic in one's own home town, clothes for the Southland tr

e duration of the visit and the extent of one's purse. The

a, silk and organdie are suggested-colorful little frocks made with a regard for easy packing and attractiveness. Canton crêpe is a lovely material, especially when it is of pale apricot or Nile gre

he southern visit. The number of sweaters and blouses taken depends upon the length of the visit. One should include a b

t to the South is a short one. And we would heartily recommend a fluffy little evening wrap to go with the

ntiful supply of gay, colorful frocks, blouses and sports things. But one need not postpone the vis

HE GE

winters in the South. He will find the patterned homespun jacket very smart indeed, with slacks and waistcoat

ly afternoon. It is attractive when worn with tan oxfords, colored linen and straw hat. Flannel sui

a coat of unshorn homespun. An attractive tennis jacket for Southern wear is of blue and black striped English flannel, with a wi

diamond weave homespun, a double-breasted vest to match, white flannel trousers and white linen. A bl

hat for the very formal occasions. Of course, there must be plenty of white and colored linen, and a generous supply of bright ties and sports shoes an