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The Norwegian Fjords

Chapter 7 THE NORD FJORD

Word Count: 3275    |    Released on: 06/12/2017

y in dull weather. Monotonous grey rocky islands appear to look with wicked eyes on every ship that passes by them, a

with the wild shrieking of sea-birds till it almost appears that there exists some

presently we arrive at Flor?, an island in the blue sea, bright with houses, warehouses, and shipping. Quite a small

urrowed, rising perpendicularly out of the sea, the crags appearing even to overhang the steamer as we sail close to the mountain-wal

e tenth century scaled this many-peaked mountain and rescued

stant mass of high mountains, on which we discern large uneven patches of perpetual snow. Gradually, as w

to extend a smile of welcome to us as we approach. We hear the snow-white mountain becks breaking into waterfalls on every side as they hurry on and plunge themselves gleefully into the sparkling fjord. Graceful birches clothe the valleys and shelter in the rocky clefts in the mountain-sides, while in the background are tho

e sky seems brighter. This open space crossed, more frequent signs of civilization mee

es and farmsteads are larger and more substantial, showing that th

mer's deck as they leap down the precipitous cliffs. Torrents come with a noisy s

s of children are heard as they play on the pebbly strand near by. The eye is refreshed by the sight of the bright cottages which are embosomed in their own little orchards surrounded by green fields, and a

e and to hold us, as though in the grip of some unseen force of fa

nsely wooded. We dip into narrow branches or ramifications of the main fjord, where beautiful vistas

ver, Stryn,

lie extensive glaciers, Skaalan, on our right, being the most conspicuous. Around this lake are many large farms; some are situated high up the mountains in apparently inaccessible places. Here also wild valleys open out in all directions,

fine mountain-road has been engineered, and th

ghty and steep mountain forms, and Stryns Lake, green with glacier water, is seen far below, whi

onal virtues of the Norwegians, although inquisitiveness is rampant in th

eave on the traveller the impression of neglect, but it arises partly from the people's national unobtrusiveness and simplicity of character. Also, as

ons as the following: "Stranger out on a journey, I suppose?" "And where do you come from, I wonder?" "And what kind of business do you follow?" "And wha

nd means only an introduction to a friendly chat, in much the same way that so

heart"); and if a neighbour should be at work; "Gud velsigne arbeidet" ("God bless your work"), or, on coming into a ro

It differs in some respects from the dress of those in other districts. The men wear knee-breeches of a coarse g

ilver braid back and front, and white sleeves. Those who are married wear a tall cloth

times they wore long skirts from earliest childhood, but latterly, m

uated in the heart of scenery of the grandest character. The mountains around are higher than any we have yet seen, and glaciers and waterfalls are here mor

ng mighty boulders which have detached them

ng torrents, and the footpaths are destroyed, or of very little use, and to pay a visit to a neighbour one must either creep u

es which have no houses, no road, and no name-desolate wildernesse

nto the heavens, and they completely enclose the three encha

and other flowers-a rich and abundant flora, which contrasts beautifully with the sombre grandeur of the surr

end from all the mountains around, the magnificent Kjendalsbr? being perhaps most conspicuous. So ne

over the edge of the cliff, and to hear them fall with a metallic rattle down

row on the deep lake, whose still surface reflects as in a mirror every detail of the majestic scenery. Crags, trees, and farmsteads,

rarefied atmosphere this is a most enchanting sight,

nd glacier,

les and anything available are hurriedly made, and as the hold of the vessel is full already, places are also found for the animals in the passage near the engine-room. Now arrive a number of goats and kids, some of the latter being carried in the arms of bright-faced peasant girls, who now stand on the pier to await the time when their struggling burden can be placed somewhere on

respective "s?ters," which lie in other parts of the district. There the c

that a peculiar elevated staging on tall, slender legs over

at the top is placed a seat, and from this point of vantage the fisherman is able to see down into the deep clear water and ascertain if there ar

lace indicated by his companion, draws in that part of the net, and secures and kills his fish. At one of these

n recent years a great deal of the tourist traffic, being a more convenient starting-place for the lakes we have just spoken of, also for the new overland route to the Geiranger dis

jde

re had been no rain to speak of for the past three weeks-I left Fa

journey. In the still and warm morning air one could hear the drowsy hum of bees and the clear notes of a song-b

ll flower, and among moss-grown boulders cranberry and whinberry bushes showed themselves in great profusion. Here

son, and how closely connected with it is this warm sunny day of May. The pine forest we are st

In the excitement of the chase they are both quite unobservant of passers-by, and across the trees which overhang the road they sp

obtain occasional peeps of blue fjord and s

rd") we now see below us an extensive lake, Hornindalsvand, along whose rocky shore we drive; and presently we arrive at Grodaas, the little inn and hamlet

elstadli, we are at a height of about 1,400 feet above sea-level. That apparently inaccessible pinnacle in front of us is Horndalsrokken ("rokken")-the distaff. Here we approach a magnificent mountain region, and, descending the steep hilly road to where it divides at "Gaard" Tryggestad-one branch going to Hellesylt-we enter that deep and gloomy val

t, and walk over huge, deep snow-patches. These are the remains of winter avalanches which have not yet melted; they stretch across the road, and form natural bridges o

by high mountains that the inhabitants do not feel th

j?run

t picturesquely situated by the shores of the narrow Norangs Fjord, an arm of the grand Hj?rund Fjord. By the Norwegians themselves this is t

nd Fjo

some even appear to lean forward, as though ready to spring out across the fjord or valley. Decorative patch

eak and pinnacle type, and of its kind n

ountai

fixed and mo

precipitous

. Gil

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